Re: Are Bhutan's new rules exploiting tourists? Having visited Bhutan in 2016 on a motorcycle, I explored the country a bit. I somewhat agree with these changes!
Previously, similar tariffs were imposed upon western tourists, but tourists from India, Nepal, and I think Nepal & Sri Lanka as well were exempt from this rule.
The permits were relatively easy and an inexpensive process for us.
But one thing that stood out was the kind of tourists coming from our own country. It was embarrassing to say the least. And, we felt this also led to a bit of anti-India (for tourists, not the country) sentiment.
I very evidently remember a couple of instances from the trip which I found quite disturbing -
1. The sun was setting over the capital town of Thimphu, and we were at the scenic Buddha Dordenma statue. A scene of peace and serenity, where people, mostly locals and a few tourists, were in a state of quiet reflection. The tranquil was shortly broken by a mini-bus load of loud tourists who arrived and disrupted the entire atmosphere with their screaming out to each other and amongst one another.
2. We were atop Chelela Pass at nearly the end of the day. There was then only one snack "tapri" shop that was open, and there were a couple of cars around. Some locals, some tourists! Two things happened here, first a car load of tourists tried to ask the snack shop owner for some tea and snacks in a language (no points for guessing which!) they didn't understand. They then switched to broken English, which was enough to convey their needs and for the transaction to be completed. I am pretty sure they hadn't just freshly arrived from across the border, as Chelela pass is some way away, thus they should have been aware of the situation by now. But this could be forgiven for a lack of knowing how to manage cultural differences. They had parked their car right next to the only dustbin in sight, yet when they left, all the waste was thrown everywhere except the bin. A little while after they left, the shop owners muttered 'dirty Indians' in hushed tones. I heard it, and as infuriating as it was to hear that, I couldn't help but sympathise with the shop owner after having witnessed the spectacle unfold before me.
3. To go beyond Thimphu to the far eastern part of Bhutan, one needed advanced permits. After having secured the first part of it, we had to go to something like an RTO office to get some further signatures (I don't recall the whole procedure!) The entry into the office parking had a long line of vehicles (the majority of which were local vehicles, with a spare few from India) to get in, and everyone was patiently waiting their turn to get in by being on their side of the road. But not the guy in the car behind me. He was honking incessantly behind me to break the line (also because I was on a motorcycle and thus should have been easier for me to do it). The first opportunity he got, he broke the line, cutting across oncoming traffic and pulling usual stunts. Again! No points for guessing which country that car was from. And to add fuel to the fire, he had the audacity to scream and shout at me from across the parking lot. I decided not to escalate the situation further and chose to continue to ignore him.
IMHO, Bhutan does not need this kind of tourists. Their philosophy is not driven by capitalist ambitions, and for that reason, I think this is a welcome move. Yes, I'm miffed at the fact that it is probably now too expensive for me to visit the country again, but I'd rather that Bhutan retains its cultural authenticity than become like any other over-exploited tourist destination that we have in India. Leh, Shimla, Goa, Ooty and the like are examples that come to mind when thinking about over-exploited tourist destinations in India, especially having experienced them in the 90s and having had the opportunity to revisit most of them later in life in recent years! |