Team-BHP - Road Conditions: Manali-Leh / Kinnaur-Spiti
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Quote:

Originally Posted by pramods (Post 1347629)
Its possible to do with Esteem, but you have to be extra careful, there are many water crossing nullahs because of the snow melting, but they are not too deep to say, while the road condition are bad, but they are still drivable

As the road from Rohtang till Leh will through you lots and lots of this type of situation, so its always better to start early and cross all these passes and hill in day light and before noon or atleast by 1-2 PM.

-Pramod

Hi Pramod/Kumarji, could you suggest me an itinerary for a drive from Manali-Leh. As in what time to start from where, and where to halt. please:

Like Manali (5 AM) - ...
... (6AM) - ...

I mean fill place & time as per your discretion. I ain't in no rush for covering Manali-Leh. Can afford 4 days if required. :)

Based on HVKumar suggestion and what I experienced, if you drive continuously and consistently, start at 5 from Manali and you would reach Sarchu by 3-4PM, provided you want to halt in tents, else you would want to stay at Jispa, where if you start at 5 from Manali would reach quit easily by 1 PM. Sarchu is at a height of 4300 m and temperature can go as low as -5, that's what I experienced 10days back not sure how it would be in next 30-60 days, but its need aclimatization , I had some problem in sleeping at night, headache and some breathless ness at this height and temparture. But it gives you approtunity to reach Leh early next day if you start at 6/7AM still can make it by 4/5PM.
-Pramod

Quote:

Originally Posted by pramods (Post 1347915)
Based on HVKumar suggestion and what I experienced, if you drive continuously and consistently, start at 5 from Manali and you would reach Sarchu by 3-4PM, provided you want to halt in tents, else you would want to stay at Jispa, where if you start at 5 from Manali would reach quit easily by 1 PM. Sarchu is at a height of 4300 m and temperature can go as low as -5, that's what I experienced 10days back not sure how it would be in next 30-60 days, but its need aclimatization , I had some problem in sleeping at night, headache and some breathless ness at this height and temparture. But it gives you approtunity to reach Leh early next day if you start at 6/7AM still can make it by 4/5PM.
-Pramod

So essentially I should start moving at the break of daylight and commence the day's journey. I guess I'll do it like this then:

1. Manali - Jispa/Darcha/Patseo (based on availability of accommodation)
2. Jispa/Darcha/Patseo - Pang
3. Pang - Leh

Few more questions:
1. Can one visit Tso Kar from Pang and get to Leh the same day? I believe no permits are required for this lake?
2. How far is Pagal Nullah from Leh? How long does it take to get to it from Leh? Asking cause I would like to get to the Nullah by noon.
3. Is Nubra Valley worth spending a day or two? I have read that it's become more of a tourist spot than anything else recently.

Kumarji/Pramod, I hope I ain't troubling you with too many questions. If I am, please excuse/pardon me cause I am really excited and wanna get as many inputs from experienced seniors as possible. :D

Staying in Pang is not a good idea because you don't have quality accomodation there. So try to push the first day's drive to Sarchu, and next day drive direct to Leh comfortably.

You need permits to visit Tso Kar/ Tso Moriri and those are available only in Leh which means you can do it only on return journey, assuming you are returning to Manali and not proceeding via Srinagar. The other issue is, even assuming you had the permit, you have to budget for a drive of over 500 kms from Tandi, the last petrol pump (before Keylong, when coming from Manali), which isos difficult for most cars without extra fuel being carried.

Pramod, did you get fuel at Tandi? Did you carry extra fuel?

Pagal Nullah is just before Lukung/ Pang, approximately 140 kms from Leh. Budget for 6 hours to drive from Leh to Pangong Tso. If you leave by 5 am, you can easily be there by noon, spend an hour or so and return to Leh by nightfall. Apart from the bad sections in Pagal Nullah, the only difficult sections on this route is the climb up and down Chang la which is over 5,300 metres high and has bad roads. Alternatively, you can stay at Tangtse the town just 1-1.5 hours before Pangong Tso, or at Lukung or Spangimik itself which have tent/ homestay accomodation.

Kumarji, my comments inline:

Quote:

Originally Posted by hvkumar (Post 1348734)
Staying in Pang is not a good idea because you don't have quality accomodation there. So try to push the first day's drive to Sarchu, and next day drive direct to Leh comfortably.

Manali - Sarchu was initial plan, but many people strongly advise against it (AMS issues). What's your take on that? I am planning to spend first night (reaching Manali) in Solang, start Diamox and do a short excursion to Rohtang. Maybe that would speed up acclamatization and enable to stay at Sarchu next day.

You need permits to visit Tso Kar/ Tso Moriri and those are available only in Leh which means you can do it only on return journey, assuming you are returning to Manali and not proceeding via Srinagar. The other issue is, even assuming you had the permit, you have to budget for a drive of over 500 kms from Tandi, the last petrol pump (before Keylong, when coming from Manali), which isos difficult for most cars without extra fuel being carried.

No sir, wont' be having permits before Leh, so will visit the lakes during the return leg.

Pramod, did you get fuel at Tandi? Did you carry extra fuel?

Will be carrying a jerry can of 20Lts which I plan to fill up at Manali along with topping up the car too.

Is there any problem with getting Petrol at Tandi? :Shockked:

Pagal Nullah is just before Lukung/ Pang, approximately 140 kms from Leh. Budget for 6 hours to drive from Leh to Pangong Tso. If you leave by 5 am, you can easily be there by noon, spend an hour or so and return to Leh by nightfall. Apart from the bad sections in Pagal Nullah, the only difficult sections on this route is the climb up and down Chang la which is over 5,300 metres high and has bad roads. Alternatively, you can stay at Tangtse the town just 1-1.5 hours before Pangong Tso, or at Lukung or Spangimik itself which have tent/ homestay accomodation.

I am planning to have a nightover close to Pangong. Probably will stay in a ten at Spangmik. Wish to venture onto Marismek La while returning. Hope it works out in my favor. :D


I did fill my tank at Tandi, once you fill at Tandi the next fuel station is at 360kms, I did't carried any extra tank, as I calculated the running average and saw its coming to 10+ and would be able to negotiate comfortable and that what happened, I did even tanked at Leh when I reached, I was able to drive 483Kms from Tandi, that means I was able to do local sight seeing at Leh on the same fuel!!

-Pramod

After some thinking, I've formulated the following itinerary:

Day 1: Noida – Manali (Solang)
Day 2: Manali - Jispa
Day 3: Jispa - Sarchu
Day 4: Sarchu - Leh
Day 5: Leh Rest / Sightseeing / Car checkup / Permits
(I hope DC office is open on Tue/Wed???)
Day 6: Leh - Nubra (Diksit/Hunder) - via Khardungla
Day 7: Nubra - Leh
Day 8: Leh - Pangong Tso
Day 9 : Pangong Tso-Marsimek La (gonna try for it)-Leh
Day 10: Leh – Lamayaru - Leh
Day 11 : Leh Sightseeing - Hemis, Thiksey monasteries
Day 12: Leh – Sarchu
Day 13: Sarchu – Manali
Day 14: Manali - Noida

Now what's missing from it is a visit to Tso Moriri, which I definitely don't wanna miss. I do have two extra days at hand (as buffer). Please suggest how I can club a visit to Tso Moriri in the above itinerary, say by including another day into it. please:

You'd observe that I am taking 3 days for Manali-Leh. This is cause I wanna do this leg in a relaxed manner, enjoying the nature along the way, and also to minimize AMS.

Quote:

Originally Posted by lordofgondor (Post 1347549)
I'd asked this as I was thinking if it's possible to do Noida-Keylong in a single day. Guess it's out of question now.
would you say that an Esteem can do this journey without any big hiccups?

Quite possible, start around 1-2 am from Noida, you'll be able to reach Keylong by 6-7 pm.

Esteem can definitely do this, best of luck!
But do get out of car to check the road conditions whenever in doubt (especially at Nallah crosssings).

Also, be careful about those unplanned excursions.
Last year while coming back from Gulmarg, I chose a small road (short cut) to reach Baba Rishi. This is small 3 km track and I remember somebody at the start itself saying something (probably he was advising against). Thinking that a small car should not have any problems, we started. Barely 100 mtrs down & the desend was too steep, the track was extremely slippery due to seeping water from hill side. I had to put first gear & handbrakes in semi-pulled state to control it. At bends it was extremely difficult to control a small car like Zen. Later on came to know that this track was being used by locals for bringing their ponies from the villages to Gulmarg.
Moral of the story - :D

Quote:

Originally Posted by breezydrive (Post 1349131)
Quite possible, start around 1-2 am from Noida, you'll be able to reach Keylong by 6-7 pm.

Esteem can definitely do this, best of luck!
But do get out of car to check the road conditions whenever in doubt (especially at Nallah crosssings).

Also, be careful about those unplanned excursions.
Last year while coming back from Gulmarg, I chose a small road (short cut) to reach Baba Rishi. This is small 3 km track and I remember somebody at the start itself saying something (probably he was advising against). Thinking that a small car should not have any problems, we started. Barely 100 mtrs down & the desend was too steep, the track was extremely slippery due to seeping water from hill side. I had to put first gear & handbrakes in semi-pulled state to control it. At bends it was extremely difficult to control a small car like Zen. Later on came to know that this track was being used by locals for bringing their ponies from the villages to Gulmarg.

Hey, thanks for the info and moral boost man.

I had decided to carry a shovel, gum boots & thick wooden planks as soon as I planned this journey (to make road conditions better, if possible). :)

Wow man, I think we both have had a healthy share of those unplanned excursions!!! I once got lost in the Thar Desert during one of those. Got saved by following a Camel. :D

Having returned from a 9 day bike trip from Leh on Sunday, let me give you a few inputs.
a. DC office is open on weekdays, so no problems there!

Try and see if you can do the following:
Day 10 : Leh Sightseeing - Hemis Gompas, Thiksey monasteries, Shay Palace, Shanti Stupa, Sindhu Darshan
Day 11: Leh – Kali Mandir (Spituk) - Pathar Sahab - Magnetic Hill - Lamayuru - Leh
Day 12: Leh - Sarchu
Day 13: Sarchu – Manali
Day 14: Manali - Noida

For Tso Moriri, you will have to head back to Upshi. You can go to Upshi when returning from Pangong, and stay overnight. That ways you will save 100kms the next day when you start towards Tso Moriri.

BTW, I came back from Srinagar side. Did Leh - Srinagar in a day, and then the next day direct run from Srinagar to Delhi (on bike). That could be too much travel for some people, i believe.

Quote:

Originally Posted by cutdcrap (Post 1349338)

For Tso Moriri, you will have to head back to Upshi. You can go to Upshi when returning from Pangong, and stay overnight. That ways you will save 100kms the next day when you start towards Tso Moriri.

BTW, I came back from Srinagar side. Did Leh - Srinagar in a day, and then the next day direct run from Srinagar to Delhi (on bike). That could be too much travel for some people, i believe.

Just one hitch to your Pangong-Tso Moriri plan. Most of our cars do not have the range, we have to return from Pangong to Leh for refelling, else we have to run almost 600 + kms on one tank + can fuel. Hence, maybe, it may be betetr to return from Pangong to Leh, refuel and set off for Tso Moriri.

Is there a place to stay at Upshi? Will appreciate info on that.

Very fast run indeed - a red rag for those who say your-are-too-fast!
What was your time schedule like for the Leh-Srinagar run? Tough for cars, imagine you doing it in a bike!

Quote:

Originally Posted by cutdcrap (Post 1349338)
Having returned from a 9 day bike trip from Leh on Sunday, let me give you a few inputs.
a. DC office is open on weekdays, so no problems there!

Try and see if you can do the following:
Day 10 : Leh Sightseeing - Hemis Gompas, Thiksey monasteries, Shay Palace, Shanti Stupa, Sindhu Darshan
Day 11: Leh – Kali Mandir (Spituk) - Pathar Sahab - Magnetic Hill - Lamayuru - Leh
Day 12: Leh - Sarchu
Day 13: Sarchu – Manali
Day 14: Manali - Noida

For Tso Moriri, you will have to head back to Upshi. You can go to Upshi when returning from Pangong, and stay overnight. That ways you will save 100kms the next day when you start towards Tso Moriri.

BTW, I came back from Srinagar side. Did Leh - Srinagar in a day, and then the next day direct run from Srinagar to Delhi (on bike). That could be too much travel for some people, i believe.

Quote:

Originally Posted by hvkumar (Post 1349378)
Just one hitch to your Pangong-Tso Moriri plan. Most of our cars do not have the range, we have to return from Pangong to Leh for refelling, else we have to run almost 600 + kms on one tank + can fuel. Hence, maybe, it may be betetr to return from Pangong to Leh, refuel and set off for Tso Moriri.

Is there a place to stay at Upshi? Will appreciate info on that.

Very fast run indeed - a red rag for those who say your-are-too-fast!
What was your time schedule like for the Leh-Srinagar run? Tough for cars, imagine you doing it in a bike!

Wow man, hats off to you. That's one blazing journey. As Kumarji's rightly pointed out, very risky doing what you suggest about Tso Moriri in a car, keeping the fuel aspect in mind. Gotta have lotta fuel in reserve, which I wont'. :D

What alternate itinerary I've decided on is:
Day 12 - Leh - Tso Moriri - Korzok
Day 13 - Korzok - Tso Kar - Sarchu
Day 14 - Sarchu - Manali
Day 15: Manali - Noida
(and still keep one day in buffer)

What's your take on this?

hi everybody,
i am already in kullu, started from delhi last evening, planning to go to spiti, to tabo and kaza, i am in my swift ldi, is it possible??
completely spontaneous plan , so we do not have anything other than a map with us.
kindly reply urgently. main q. is that can i do it in my swift???

Road is bad between Gramphoo and KUnzum la, but doable in a Swift.

Route is as follows:
Kulu-Manali 40 kms-Rohtang Pass 53-Gramphoo 15-turn RIGHT (straight goes to Keylong/Leh)-Chhatru 18-Chota Dara 17-Bada Dara 16-Kunzum la 12-Losar 18-Hanse 13-Rangirik 39-Kaza 7

Driving conditions are tough till you reach Losar. Expect no facilities till you reach Kaza. Kaza has a petrol pump. Budget for a 10-12 hour drive. Leave early from Manali.

Quote:

Originally Posted by hvkumar (Post 1348734)
Pramod, did you get fuel at Tandi? Did you carry extra fuel?

Just a note of caution about Tandi - last week, on two consecutive days, Tandi was out of fuel. Couple of people I know who were planning on refuelling there had to change their plans. (I didn't have issues since the Safari has a 65 litre tank which I'd filled up in Leh & it was giving me a mileage of close to 10 kmpl).


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