[pramods]

From Leh to Srinagar, they have started stopping the vehicle at Kargil from 7th June Monday, the vehicle are only allowed at 4 AM to 7 AM from Kargil to cross the Zoji La.

-Pramod

[rkbharat]

Originally Posted by hvkumar

rkbharat, thanks for this useful info. What about Jawahar Tunnel - does it close at midnight? Any idea?

We crossed it at 7:00 AM and 12:00 PM, but as per my discussion with people, its 24X7 now

Originally Posted by deky

Does 6AM -10AM mean that we will have to cross Zozi La in between those 4 hours or can we start from Kargil any time in between 6-10am? I think the first seems a more practical thing, but I thought I will still confirm.

Whats the ideal time taken from Kargil to Sonamarg?? I know I did it 20 years back but I do not remember it at all now.

Thanks

You have to reach Ghumri checkpost between 6AM-10AM(Ghumri Post - Police Check Post - Matiana - Drass - Kargil), because thats where they stop vehicle, bascially Ghumri Checkpost is Army Check post(basically just a post) and 200 Mtrs before this checkpost, just before the bridge, on kargil side is Police checkpost. And police control the traffic based on the instructions from Army. This police checkpost has a small 2 people army checkpost as well, in case you need to contact the actual Ghumri post from here

Now if you reach this post, by let say 4PM, they will stop you for some time like an hour, but let you pass in between.

Or carry some reference in Army at Ghumri post and you are free to go, I did the same, as we crossed it at 5:00Pm, but just to avoid public conflict, major first invited us in the post for tea, and what a wonderful experience it was

But remember, Last Light at Zozila as of now is till 7:30 Pm, beyond that not safe to cross. not to scare you but, a day before we crossed it, a TBhpian's ritz was badly damaged after collision with army recovery vehicle, car was still there at post when I crossed this post. I am still not able to track these people

Originally Posted by pramods

From Leh to Srinagar, they have started stopping the vehicle at Kargil from 7th June Monday, the vehicle are only allowed at 4 AM to 7 AM from Kargil to cross the Zoji La.

-Pramod

Pramod dear, how is you scorp? Heard from kumar sir about the bad event

[deky]

Thanks for the clarification. And how long is the drive from Kargil to Ghumri?? 3- 4 hours?

[pramods]

@rkbharat: will come back with details once everything gets sorted.
@deky: Yes Kargil to Ghumri will take 3 hours.

-Pramod

[deky]

Originally Posted by deky

The itinerary has been more or less finalised and all tickets have been done. I would like to thank HVK & wanderernomad for the invaluable inputs.

The Itinerary looks like this:-

• 23rd July :- Fly from Jammu to Leh (rest day In Leh)

• 24th July:- Leh Palace, Shanti stupa, shopping, Spituk Gompa

• 25th July:- Drive to Pangong Tso, see pangong tso, night halt at Phobrang

• 26th July:- Early morning try attempt Marsimik La, later return to Leh seeing Stock, Thiksey and Hemis.

• 27th July : Leave for Khardungla and return to Leh via Nubra valley by the evening

• 28th July:- Taxi from Leh to Kargil (night halt in kargil) enroute see Lamayuru, Mulbek, Magnetic Hill, Pather Saheb

• 29th July:- Taxi from Kargil To Srinagar (night halt in Srinagar) enroute see Dras, war memorial

• 30th July:- Srinagar and around

• 31st July:- Srinagar and around

• 1st August:- Fly from Srinagar to Jammu

Thanks and regards

Now that the plans are confirmed and all air ticketing has been done, there is some bad news. The violence in Kashmir valley does not seem to abate. I was secretly hoping that things would normalise as soon as possible but it seems unlikely as of now.

Also a very reliable source, someone at a very high level who is incharge of maintaining law and order in Kashmir valley has advised us not to touch Srinagar. In his words he has hinted of " a very deep rooted conspiracy" and he said that things would take "atleast a month or more to normalise". I definitely can not take his advise lightly, specially when I have my family including my 3 year old with me.

So I am thinking of Plan B. The following are the alternatives in front of me.

1. Cancel the whole Plan

• I am avoiding this at all costs.

2. Fly from Leh to Jammu

• will have to get Srinagar to Jammu tickets canceled and incur cancellation charges. Luckily the tickets were very cheap
• Tickets from Leh to jammu are priced at 12-16k per person, out of my budget
• miss seeing Kargil, Dras & Srinagar

3. Fly from Leh to Delhi

• Cancel Srinagar-Jammu flight tickets
• Cancel Jammu- Jaipur train tickets
• Tickets in this sector priced again between 10-14k, out of my budget

4. Take a taxi from Leh to Manali

• How good/bad is the route? Comfortable for a 3 year old kid?
• Best place in terms of accommodation to break, in between Leh and Manali?
• How badly the monsoons will affect Rohtang and its accessibility? Will it be open in the end of July/ first week of August?
• Is there a way to reach to Jammu without touching Manali or without touching Srinagar? I Think not but still thought should ask.

5. Just wait and watch and hope that the situation gets ok soon

• Cancelling the tickets now or closer to the date will cost the same
• Even if I have to fly back from leh, the tickets are at their highest now so doesnt make any difference if I get new tickets done now or later
• Taxi from Leh to Manali will anyways have to be organised from Leh

Any more suggestions anyone and What do you guys advise?

[hvkumar]

I am sure the advice you have received about the situation in Kashmir Valley may be closer to reality.

Leh-Manali road is in a bad condition after Sarchu, but should see siginificant improvement by the date you travel.

You can ideally stay in Sarchu, which has an army camp and luxury tents. That means journey time of under 10 hours from Leh-Sarchu and then Sarchu-Manali.

Rohtang is currently in a bad shape thanks to the onset of monsoons, but should improve.

The only way to reach Jammu without touching Manali/ Srinagar is via the Keylong-Udeypur-Tandi-Sach Pass-Chamba-Dalhousie route which is a very difficult route.

I think the Jammu-Leh flight option looks the best. Keep your eyes and ears open, weather/road conditions can only improve from here on.

[tsk1979]

Cancel your air tickets. Take a taxi.
The route can be done by a three year old. Just make sure that your night halt is in Keylong and not sarchu which has tented acco(not very comfortable).
From Leh you plan to sight see in a taxi right? They will not take you to M.La
you can probably see Nubra valley now as kashmir stands cancelled. You can even include Tso Moriri in your itenary.
Alternative itenary
25 - Leh to Nubra
26 - Nubra to pangong(5 hours by taxi) - Bridge is made now
27 - Pangong to Leh
28 - Tso moriri
29th - back to leh
30 - Leh keylong
31 - keylong to Ambala - At Ambala junction you catch your train to Jaipur. Alternatively you get lots of trains from Chandigarh to Delhi, so you need not come 45kms extra to ambala.
Also remember you will reach Ambala late in the night.

[hisunil]

Deky,

I tried a similar trip with a 4 year old kid this June from 4th to 20th,

With kids its hard to push things & in my opinion, its not worth pushing it too.
Didn't see Nubra as we were held back in South Palu for 3.5 hours due to an avalanche in K-top, skipped pangong as vehicles were stuck in Changal pass, later tried again from Nyoma side, but returned back as my kid had light fever.

The food available, although improved over last 2 years is still roti sabjee or dal chaval predominantly, not good for at least our south Indian family, kids stomach is very sensitive & cant take this for extended periods (like 2 weeks)

Stay at hotsprings hotel in Chumathang is highly recommended this palace is warm due to hot springs around & helps recover some what, you dont need thermals inside the room & its shuch a welcome break so is Lamayure Moon light hotel

Cheers
Sunil

[deky]

Thank you HVK Sir, Tanveer & Sunil for your inputs. As of now I am still hoping all cools down and that my original plans materialise.

But Still its always best to keep Plan B ready.

I am not planning to cancel any tickets at the moment, will do so closer to the date if need arises.

Originally Posted by hvkumar

Leh-Manali road is in a bad condition after Sarchu, but should see siginificant improvement by the date you travel.

You can ideally stay in Sarchu, which has an army camp and luxury tents. That means journey time of under 10 hours from Leh-Sarchu and then Sarchu-Manali.

Rohtang is currently in a bad shape thanks to the onset of monsoons, but should improve.

The only way to reach Jammu without touching Manali/ Srinagar is via the Keylong-Udeypur-Tandi-Sach Pass-Chamba-Dalhousie route which is a very difficult route.

I think the Jammu-Leh flight option looks the best. Keep your eyes and ears open, weather/road conditions can only improve from here on.

Thanks for the help

1. We are flying from Jammu to Leh anyways. But the return flight from Leh to Jammu is very very expensive. Out of my budget, so would like to avoid that if possible

2. Getting more inclined on driving down from Leh to Manali now, as hopefully the roads would improve in 25 days time. Fingers crossed

3. I think you are right, will skip Udeypur-Tandi- Jammu route.

Originally Posted by tsk1979

Cancel your air tickets. Take a taxi.
The route can be done by a three year old. Just make sure that your night halt is in Keylong and not sarchu which has tented acco(not very comfortable).
From Leh you plan to sight see in a taxi right? They will not take you to M.La
you can probably see Nubra valley now as kashmir stands cancelled. You can even include Tso Moriri in your itenary.
Alternative itenary
25 - Leh to Nubra
26 - Nubra to pangong(5 hours by taxi) - Bridge is made now
27 - Pangong to Leh
28 - Tso moriri
29th - back to leh
30 - Leh keylong
31 - keylong to Ambala - At Ambala junction you catch your train to Jaipur. Alternatively you get lots of trains from Chandigarh to Delhi, so you need not come 45kms extra to ambala.
Also remember you will reach Ambala late in the night.

Thanks for the reply Tanveer

1. Would definitely add Tso Moriri and Nubra Valley if Kargil-Dras-Srinagar gets cancelled. Thanks for the suggestion.

2. M.La if attempted will be with the help of Army

3. I have to go to Jammu on my way back as my M.I.L is from Jammu and have to drop her there. Our return tickets are already booked from Jammu by train on the 1st of Aug. So was hoping that from Manali we could reach Jammu, drop her and take the train back. I know it will be going south, then back up north and then south again. Not the best of options but ALAS!!!! But lets see, Plan B is not finalised as yet.

Originally Posted by hisunil

Deky,

I tried a similar trip with a 4 year old kid this June from 4th to 20th,

With kids its hard to push things & in my opinion, its not worth pushing it too.
Didn't see Nubra as we were held back in South Palu for 3.5 hours due to an avalanche in K-top, skipped pangong as vehicles were stuck in Changal pass, later tried again from Nyoma side, but returned back as my kid had light fever.

The food available, although improved over last 2 years is still roti sabjee or dal chaval predominantly, not good for at least our south Indian family, kids stomach is very sensitive & cant take this for extended periods (like 2 weeks)

Stay at hotsprings hotel in Chumathang is highly recommended this palace is warm due to hot springs around & helps recover some what, you dont need thermals inside the room & its shuch a welcome break so is Lamayure Moon light hotel

Cheers
Sunil

Thanks Sunil,

I appreciate your concern for our 3 year old. I definitely will not be pushing things, as I have mentioned in my first post. If we have to do Plan B and come via Manali then I will make sure to take a break in Manali before proceeding to either Jammu or Jaipur.

EDIT: Just read in another forum that Manali-Jammu will take approximately 17 hours. WOW!!! I think it will be better to take a Volvo from Manali to Delhi now and make my MIL take a train from Delhi to Jammu and we take another Volvo back to Jaipur.

I am gonna pray everynight that the situation in the valley improves so we can stick to our original plan. This is turning out to be a lot of travelling.