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Old 2nd January 2018, 16:57   #691
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Default Re: Home Construction/Makeover/Maintenance Thread

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It will be best if you can find someone who works with material purchased-by you and charges for labor however it is hard
I think labour charges were Rs. 250 or 300 per sqft and the contractor doesn't mind if I get the material myself.

In fact a relative deals in boards & plys and my brother-in-law got a great deal when he bought the material from him. While its far from my place I'll check quickly if discount > delivery charges and will accordingly get it from them.

So veneer finish as I understand is something that I can't wipe with a wet cloth and it'd basically need polishing every few years. I reckon it has a richer finish than that of a ply, hope I'm not mistaken.

The wardrobe would be 8x8 at the bottom (2ft above to be storage) with 2 sliding doors of 8x4 each. I guess I can buy the readymade doors since the standard size is 8x4 only, isn't it?

So thicker veneer finished and factory laminated doors is what I'm looking for, right?
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Old 2nd January 2018, 17:11   #692
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Default Re: Home Construction/Makeover/Maintenance Thread

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I'm planning to get ceiling height wardrobes made in 2 rooms. The contractor quoted Rs.1000/sqft for using non-popular boards and Rs.1400/sqft for using Century boards.
Please use E1 grade plywood. Cheap plys and especially MDF has emissions that are bad for your health. Century has several E1 grade plys.
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Old 3rd January 2018, 11:42   #693
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I'm planning to get ceiling height wardrobes made in 2 rooms. The contractor quoted Rs.1000/sqft for using non-popular boards and Rs.1400/sqft for using Century boards.
Rates are OK by Delhi standards but depends on the size of the shelves (the total amount of board needed inside) and drawers and number of fittings.

Regarding the extra cost for Grade One ply / boards, just calculate total square footage of board used, add 10-15% extra for wastage and then see if the difference over total area is justified.

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Though interior designers / carpentry contractors say ply but they mostly fall back to particle board wherever it is not visible example in the shelf partition. Particle board can not take moisture and does not last beyond 4-5 years.
Particle board has a shorter life, but in my experience, it has its own uses, especially where cost is a constraint. It is not a bad product but it is not a replacement for commercial board / ply. The best thing about commercial ply and board is that it can be cut / dismantled and reused many times. I have furniture and office at home made of board which has been reused twice already by cutting up old furniture and making new ones.

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So veneer finish as I understand is something that I can't wipe with a wet cloth and it'd basically need polishing every few years. I reckon it has a richer finish than that of a ply, hope I'm not mistaken.
If you get good quality melamine or PU polish over the veneer, it will not be affected by water. Remember the board is already BWP (boiling water proof) if it is genuine. Make sure the polishing is not done in a hurry.

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The wardrobe would be 8x8 at the bottom (2ft above to be storage) with 2 sliding doors of 8x4 each. I guess I can buy the readymade doors since the standard size is 8x4 only, isn't it?

So thicker veneer finished and factory laminated doors is what I'm looking for, right?
You cannot buy the door straightaway as one board as it will still need the edging in wood.

You can get factory-laminated boards with PVC edging but it all depends on availability and volume. Also, as far as possible, please avoid sliding shutters unless you can afford very good hardware. Please restrict shutter size to 2' wide and use better hinges instead.

Lastly, talking of interior designers and amitk26's comments, storage furniture is a personalised affair, so sit with the carpenter and sketch-out your internal storage layout based on your requirements. Measure what you will need to store. How much you need to store. Know the sizes of your clothes and stuff. The reach of all your family members' hands for height, etc. etc. Then let your carpenter figure out the detailing and construction.

One of the reasons I don't (usually) do home interiors is that it is not justified to spend so much time and effort on something so intensive and personalised. It never justifies the pittance we receive as design fee. On the other hand, it is much more fun if the owners design it themselves. They get what they want, they learn from their mistakes (especially after wasting money) and they appreciate why the work done in design needs to be paid for!
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Old 3rd January 2018, 12:34   #694
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So veneer finish as I understand is something that I can't wipe with a wet cloth and it'd basically need polishing every few years. I reckon it has a richer finish than that of a ply, hope I'm not mistaken.
As architect suggested you can go for PU coating on polished veneer it will easily last 10 to 15 year.

Generally PU or melamine is spray painted using compressor after french polish ( lacquar in spirit) is done by hand. Melamine is cheaper alternative to PU but I would not recommend it as melamine is now banned in many countries and AFAIK being used only in India.
Coated polished surface can be wiped with wet cloth.

In my experience veneer outlasts lamination and can be reused by re-polishing .

Veneer is basically to give you grand look of polished teak / Mahogany / Walnut or whatever classic wooden finish you like at affordable costs.
Example Good quality Teak costs around 6000 to 8000 rs per cubic feet and cost of single door goes upwards of 20K. Veneer gives you same look and feel by putting 1mm skin of teak over ply.

Veneer is prepared by using actual wood for example a log of teak will be put in a rotatory saw mill and a layer of 1mm is created so a single log is converted to many meters of thin sheet. This layer is then pasted over multiple layers of commercially grown wood like poplar or eucalyptus just like ply. On a cheap Chinese made veneer the layer is as thin as 0.3 mm and pasted on cardboard the problem here is if something hard hits finished surface it easily dents the finish and only option is to fill the dent by metal paste and repolish so it stands out.
If you go for veneer of some reputed Indian company thickness is enough so that it can be polished multiple times so you have a solution for lifetime.

I have samples of both kind of work in my home done at two stages,
will post pictures today evening to show the difference and problems. And also membrane finish which i opted for in another flat.

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So thicker veneer finished and factory laminated doors is what I'm looking for, right?
Its about taste and choice if your interiors are of classic type wood veneer goes well however for modern settings and furniture you may want to go for membrane lamination. Generally you will get samples in shape of albums similar to wall papers and you can choose.
Here also there are multiple qualities available at different price points you can choose as per your liking.
The advantage of machine pressing is that you can get pressed grooves and designs. Will post pictures for your reference.

Last edited by amitk26 : 3rd January 2018 at 12:46.
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Old 3rd January 2018, 12:43   #695
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Default Re: Home Construction/Makeover/Maintenance Thread

Have a question about the pressurized solar water heater. In my setup, I am having having a storage water heater in the bathrooms which is fed from the output of solar heater. This is to make sure less heating is required if the water is warm.

Will the storage water heaters be able to handle the pressure of the inlet from pressurized solar tank ?
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Old 3rd January 2018, 13:00   #696
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Thanks guys, this was really helpful!

I'll get the veneer finish done and the plan is to source the material myself. I spoke to the contractor today morning and he'll charge Rs.300/sqft as labour.

His suggested brand was Virgo which may not be as popular as Century but their website suggests they are pretty deep in this business as well.

Since there is someone known who deals in boards/plys I'll speak with them to get an estimate and try to get E1 grade only.

He has given me the measurements as follows:
19mm board - 8 pcs (for everything except back)
6mm board - 3 pcs (for the back)
Mica - 16 pcs

Will keep you guys posted on what rates I get and what all specifications are available.
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Old 3rd January 2018, 13:55   #697
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He has given me the measurements as follows:
19mm board - 8 pcs (for everything except back)
6mm board - 3 pcs (for the back)
Mica - 16 pcs
16mm board would suffice especially since you are laminating it. You would get a finished thickness of 18mm, which is good enough to prevent warp. You can save a good amount of money. You may opt for 19mm boards for the shutters if they are too long.

Last edited by civic-sense : 3rd January 2018 at 13:56.
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Old 3rd January 2018, 14:07   #698
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Default Re: Home Construction/Makeover/Maintenance Thread

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Will the storage water heaters be able to handle the pressure of the inlet from pressurized solar tank ?
Yes, your storage water heater should be able to handle high pressure. Which the water heater you have or you intend to buy one?
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Old 3rd January 2018, 15:08   #699
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Default Re: Home Construction/Makeover/Maintenance Thread

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Originally Posted by fine69 View Post
His suggested brand was Virgo which may not be as popular as Century but their website suggests they are pretty deep in this business as well.

He has given me the measurements as follows:
19mm board - 8 pcs (for everything except back)
6mm board - 3 pcs (for the back)
Mica - 16 pcs
.
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Originally Posted by civic-sense View Post
16mm board would suffice especially since you are laminating it.
I would suggest 8 mm commercial plywood for the back. You don't get board in 6 mm.

Since your cupboard is 8' tall I am assuming the shutter will be at least 6' tall. I would suggest you take 19 mm thick commercial board or 18 mm thick commercial ply (ply will be more expensive).

Also, what is the finish on the inside? You can do spirit polish or you can do 0.8 mm thick laminate. Get that figured out before finalising your rates. If the insides have to be laminated then the cut sections of the board will have to be laminated BEFORE they are joined together to make the skeleton of the cupboard.
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Old 3rd January 2018, 16:05   #700
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I would suggest 8 mm commercial plywood for the back. You don't get board in 6 mm.
I'll check with the carpenter on what he meant by 6mm then.
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Since your cupboard is 8' tall I am assuming the shutter will be at least 6' tall. I would suggest you take 19 mm thick commercial board or 18 mm thick commercial ply (ply will be more expensive).
The overall cupboard would be 9' tall with the sliding doors of 7' each at the bottom and 2' storage space up above them. Idea is to have cupboard upto ceiling height.

I would only use hettich channels & fittings throughout so is there an issue if 7'x4' 2 sliding doors are used for the entire cupboard?

I was thinking not to have a channel at the bottom as it accumulates dust so the carpenter suggested that the channel can be put at the top only and he'd design the door such that it'd actually be hanging in front of the cupboard by an inch so that no dust enters from below also. Not sure if I'm able to describe what he meant.
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Also, what is the finish on the inside?
I think a simple white mica finish is what the carpenter suggested. But point taken, if it has to be laminated or anything then I'd get it done beforehand.
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Old 3rd January 2018, 16:32   #701
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Yes, your storage water heater should be able to handle high pressure. Which the water heater you have or you intend to buy one?
Haven't thought about which one to buy yet. Do you know any ? Will have this configuration for 4 bathrooms and thought I need to think about it.
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Old 3rd January 2018, 17:23   #702
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In south Delhi we face a lot of termite infestation, so I would suggest that you get Marine Grade Waterproof/Termite proof boards for your cupboard. I have seen quite a few cupboards destroyed.

In our cupboards we do not have wood at the rear end, instead in kitchen we have used tiles and in wardrobes plastic paint on satin finish plaster walls. That not only saves wood but also gets you a few mm of depth.
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Old 5th January 2018, 17:07   #703
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Have a question about the pressurized solar water heater. In my setup, I am having having a storage water heater in the bathrooms which is fed from the output of solar heater. This is to make sure less heating is required if the water is warm.

Will the storage water heaters be able to handle the pressure of the inlet from pressurized solar tank ?
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Originally Posted by RaguHolla View Post
Yes, your storage water heater should be able to handle high pressure. Which the water heater you have or you intend to buy one?
Quoting myself here. A O Smith water heaters can withstand pressures upto 8 bar. So I guess they can be used. Not sure about others.
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Old 6th January 2018, 12:26   #704
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All, I have a water softener installed where the water from sump goes to the softener and then to the overhead water tank. Now the problem is the softener get clogged due to some mud in the water. Is there a filter I can put before the softener that can filter the mud particles so it does not get into the softener system?
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Old 6th January 2018, 19:28   #705
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All, I have a water softener installed where the water from sump goes to the softener and then to the overhead water tank. Now the problem is the softener get clogged due to some mud in the water. Is there a filter I can put before the softener that can filter the mud particles so it does not get into the softener system?
There are sediment filters that you have to put before the softener. You get 3M one and local one as well. 3M will be expensive side. I have installed a local one from purewaterhouse which i purchased for 4K. You can check their website
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