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Old 10th March 2020, 22:22   #961
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This is the condition of ceiling in bathrooms in a 12 year old Purva apartment in Bangalore. I would like to know how serious is the issue and does it make sense to buy this flat?
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Old 11th March 2020, 07:00   #962
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Bathrooms are generally "stacked" - come one below other in apartments. Please verify.

If so, for a 12 year old apartment, this is more an indication of poor maintenance and a weak, "dont care" owner's society.

Where I live right now, the apartment building is about 11 years old. The new secretary put his foot down and got bathroom flooring "pointed" in each apartment. "Pointing" is putting a chemical / powder / compound in between the tiles. For bathrooms, this is crucial to prevent water seepage.

Summary - do more investigations, especially about the apartment just above this.
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Old 11th March 2020, 08:09   #963
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Like BackSeatDriver indicated, this would mean slow seepage of water in the floor of the bathroom above. For this to stop, the owner of the flat above needs to rectify it. And if this is the case of the bath room above, you may also check how this bathroom is - by going to the one below.
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Old 11th March 2020, 08:11   #964
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Originally Posted by GladRagu View Post
This is the condition of ceiling in bathrooms in a 12 year old Purva apartment in Bangalore. I would like to know how serious is the issue and does it make sense to buy this flat?
From the pics it looks like you have a bathroom above with a sunk slab that allows for sanitary pipes to run under the tiles and out to a duct, so the best way to tackle this is to
  1. Check if the exposed plaster is wet or dry
  1. If dry, then you have dodged a bullet and the ceiling just needs a new lick of paint
  1. If wet then its a major problem that can only be solved from the top.
  • The first step would be to re-fill all the joints in the tiles, and wait for about a week to see if the wet patch on your ceiling drys up.
  • If it doesn't, then it then turns into a major job which involves ripping up the tiles in bathroom above to find the source of the leak, fixing the leak, and re-tiling the bathroom

Looking at the pics of the ceiling it doesn't look wet to me, so keep fingers crossed.
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Old 11th March 2020, 09:18   #965
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This is the condition of ceiling in bathrooms in a 12 year old Purva apartment in Bangalore. I would like to know how serious is the issue and does it make sense to buy this flat?

I assume these pictures are of the roof of the bathroom?

Is the area around the peeling wet or dry. If it's dry then it is just bad quality paint. Bad quality paint in humid environments like bathroom gets peeled. Have experienced such in my home as well. If dry then nothing to worry. Scrap the old paint, apply putty and fresh paint. If wet, then like other pointed out, there might be a more serious problem
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Old 11th March 2020, 10:35   #966
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Hello all,

Need inputs on proper earthing depth by pipe method. I've read in an electrical distribution handbook that pipe depth should be about 2.3 metres. And moisture maintained by salt+charcoal mix , along with topping up water in the GI PIPE.

The electrician wants to dig a bore down to the actual moisture level which is much deeper.

Any views/opinions would be much appreciated. Thanks
in advance.
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Old 11th March 2020, 10:52   #967
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Hello all,

Need inputs on proper earthing depth by pipe method. I've read in an electrical distribution handbook that pipe depth should be about 2.3 metres. And moisture maintained by salt+charcoal mix , along with topping up water in the GI PIPE.

The electrician wants to dig a bore down to the actual moisture level which is much deeper.

Any views/opinions would be much appreciated. Thanks
in advance.
If you are looking for dry earthing, depth of 5 feet is sufficient.

Wet earthing, 6ft is sufficient
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Old 11th March 2020, 11:09   #968
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Originally Posted by sagarpadaki View Post
If you are looking for dry earthing, depth of 5 feet is sufficient.

Wet earthing, 6ft is sufficient
Kindly share details of 'dry earthing' method. Or point me to a relevant online link or book resource.
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Old 11th March 2020, 11:29   #969
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Kindly share details of 'dry earthing' method. Or point me to a relevant online link or book resource.
Dig earthing pit ~1.25 feet diameter till 5 feet depth. Lower the pole wrapped with copper earth wire.The copper wire attached to the copper plate of 1sq ft at the bottom end of the pole. Fill the pit with 2 inch alternate layers of charcoal, rock salt. An optional thin layer of M sand can be put after a pair of charcoal and rock salt layer. This will aid holding the moisture. The top 0.5 feet must be covered with loose soil

The other end of the copper wire will be joined to the electrical circuit.

Wet water into this pit for a week till the water is no longer getting absorbed. A week time is sufficient. Cover the pit with cement after a week.

We did this recently in my home. It took around 1 cement bag of charcoal and 30kg of salt


An electrician will know the execution of this method.

Last edited by sagarpadaki : 11th March 2020 at 11:31.
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Old 11th March 2020, 20:42   #970
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You can get copper bonded earthing rods from the market. These are usually 6ft long and come with a chemical powder as well. We got the whole set for 6250 recently. Just dug a pit manually. Made sure that the rod was completely covered by the chemical powder when filling the pit and that was enough. We had to get 2 rods buried at least 50-60 ft apart for our usage as it was for a commercial connection and that's what the state electricity body demands before giving the connection. I did enquire that can't just the rebar used in the pillars be used for the earthing connection as the pillars already go down 4-5 ft. but the government people don't wanna listen such logic. According to them the wire connecting the rods to the distribution box should be naked throughout whereas only the part of the wire buried underground should be kept naked. In a whole metal shed like mine, they want to keep the whole ground wire naked which I will get changed after inspection.
When I was researching, I read somewhere that one can also just insert such a rod horizontally into the ground at a depth of 2ft if one doesn't have suitable soil which can be dug deep.
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Old 12th March 2020, 13:26   #971
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The reason for using a plate and not a rod is to reduce the resistance (increase electrical conductivity) between the earth and the circuit. This makes it easier for the fault current to dissipate into the ground. If the resistance is high, the fault current will try to take a easier route - normally a nearby metal casing, a water puddle or a human. All of these can be fatal.
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Old 13th March 2020, 22:08   #972
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An update on Slag Sand use for plastering in place of river sand or M Sand based on my personal experience.
I would recommend everyone looking for plastering sand to use slag in place of river sand.

I wanted to avoid river sand due to environmental reasons and read up about slag online and read various acadamic papers which I could find and was convinced.

I got one lorry load of slag sand ( 26 tonnes approximately 700 cubic feet) for plastering. I could not get any sample before ordering however went ahead and ordered based on whatever search I had done. Contractor and Mason were skeptical however they followed my instructions.

They applied an test patch with PPC cement and in 2 days it attained really good strength and it was really hard for them to remove using chisel and hammer.

In a wall electrician had missed cutting groove and he had to cut the wall yesterday and just on 2nd day of plastering it was really hard work for him to cut groove and he said he has never seen such hard plaster on 2nd day itself. I shot a video of him tring to cut groove however unable to upload MP4 here.

Now they all are bought for slag and understand it is really superior to river sand. The biggest advantage over river sand is that there is no silt or clay and no screening is required

Slag is a cementuous material a waste product of steel production it consists of Al2O3 , Fe2O3 , MgO, CaOH , SiO2 that is same materials which makes cement. It is often fine ground and called GGBS for mixing in cement to sell as PSC or in RMC mix.

Course grounded slag is used in place of river sand.

In Bangalore it costed me 1800/- per tonne unloaded at site (compared to 2300/- for river sand and 1300/ for M sand) however finding a supplier was really hard. Most of the listings on IndiaMart are fake and they just try to push M sand or river sand. Finally I could get from a guy who is promoting slag sand on you tube for many years with 100% advance payment for 1 full load. However if someone can arrange transport from Bellary it is really cheap there (approx 50% price of what it sells for in Bangalore ) .

Last edited by amitk26 : 13th March 2020 at 22:15.
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Old 13th March 2020, 22:15   #973
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I would recommend everyone looking for plastering sand to use slag in place of river sand.
Amit, thanks for this. Would it possible to get a sample ? We have some plastering work coming up soon.

And any info on the Bellary source ?
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Old 13th March 2020, 22:19   #974
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An update on Slag Sand use for plastering in place of river sand or M Sand based on my personal experience.
I would recommend everyone looking for plastering sand to use slag in place of river sand.
A friend used it for his house in Shimoga and is really happy with the outcome. It was his civil engineer who suggested the use and arranged the supply for the entire building.

But as you said, getting hold of a genuine supplier is a bit difficult.
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Old 13th March 2020, 22:25   #975
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Originally Posted by condor View Post
Amit, thanks for this. Would it possible to get a sample ? We have some plastering work coming up soon.

And any info on the Bellary source ?
Sent you PM for sample.
Bellary source I got from below YouTube Channel of Metro Minerals and the number is 091487 36446

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCTy...O22DwI23ot3jiQ

Edit:

I purchased from the following supplier in Bangalore


Last edited by amitk26 : 13th March 2020 at 22:42. Reason: Added youtube links
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