[JithinR]

Hi Everyone,

Just wanted to get some idea on the usage of this component i saw on Amazon (I was actually looking for surge arrestors since I wanted it installed after looking at fellow experienced members talking about it here).

https://www.amazon.in/dp/B07BVKQ17H/ref=cm_sw_r_wa_apa_i_PiTBFb9N9YBRZ

We have a DB box with c type MCBs at my parents home. We were thinking of adding a split AC to the master bedroom and I wanted to just know if there is any advantage to adding this MCB protected socket for it (there isn't a provision for a AC socket in the bedroom so we have asked a local electrician to extend the 15A wiring from the bathroom geyser socket which we don't use to the bedroom).

[jkrishnakj]

Bangalore BHP'ians - Does anyone know of a good vendor that can build a 'Bamboo' Gazebo on a small terrace? I was thinking of creating a gazebo and was wondering that a bamboo one may make sense instead of using a lot of steel and brick tiles. Any references / leads will be very helpful. If there is some idea of a cost that you can indicate, i shall be very happy. Thanks.

[Prowler]

Originally Posted by JithinR

We have a DB box with c type MCBs at my parents home. We were thinking of adding a split AC to the master bedroom and I wanted to just know if there is any advantage to adding this MCB protected socket for it (there isn't a provision for a AC socket in the bedroom so we have asked a local electrician to extend the 15A wiring from the bathroom geyser socket which we don't use to the bedroom).

Don't go with ordinary socket like that for heavy loads like AC. You need to use a metal socket rated at at least 20A or more. Like this: https://www.amazon.in/Anchor-Panason...s%2C744&sr=8-4
Metal contact pins inside the plastic sockets develop pitting due to excessive heat generated by poor contacts and burn up.

[JithinR]

Originally Posted by Prowler

Don't go with ordinary socket like that for heavy loads like AC. You need to use a metal socket rated at at least 20A or more. Like this: https://www.amazon.in/Anchor-Panason...s%2C744&sr=8-4
Metal contact pins inside the plastic sockets develop pitting due to excessive heat generated by poor contacts and burn up.

Thank you sir. I just asked my electrician to get this but he is of the opinion that for a 1 ton AC (I forgot to mention that my parents bedroom is actually small after we added a gigantic wardrobe to it) it's not required.

But I have to get the 1.5ton old LG in the upstairs bedroom repaired and will be getting this socket for that one.

Thanks for the advice.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by Prowler

Don't go with ordinary socket like that for heavy loads like AC. You need to use a metal socket rated at at least 20A or more. Like this: https://www.amazon.in/Anchor-Panason...s%2C744&sr=8-4
Metal contact pins inside the plastic sockets develop pitting due to excessive heat generated by poor contacts and burn up.

We used the metal sockets for over thirty years as normal 15A sockets in those days were pretty bad. They are good, but quite ugly. For the last two years we have shifted to heavy duty plugs and sockets rated at 16/20A. They are as good as the older metal sockets and for most AC's which do not consume more that 10A they are perfect.

[JithinR]

Originally Posted by amitk26

You can go for Garware polyfilm instead of 3M to control costs.
Choose darkest tint, Garware is lot cheaper. Tinted film is more effective compared to heat reflective transparent sheet as it cuts more radiations.

Originally Posted by Aroy

There are reflective films available. These are like one way windows and used world over in office buildings. These are primarily designed to reject heat by reflection and not by absorption.

Originally Posted by JithinR

All these charges are inclusive of fitting. As such, with a window of around 46 sqft give or take this will easily go above Rs.10,000.

Wanted to post an update on this. The film on window made the most sense to me but the cost is slightly on the higher side not to mention that eventually we would have to regulate light coming through the gigantic window too.

I think we might go for Zebra blinds in a lighter shade (I am not sure of getting a dark shade since that might end up absorbing energy and then radiating heat into the house). From what i can understand there seem to be two types that I can get around these parts. One is for around Rs. 3,000+ which is made in China and another is made in India for around Rs. 7,500.

I have to take a closer look at the one made in India and if it's of better quality (metal bracket against plastic, better quality draw string etc) then will go for that.

This might get us some respite from the heat and allow us to regulate the light coming into the house too.

Thanks for all the advice.

[Vid6639]

Originally Posted by JithinR

Wanted to post an update on this. The film on window made the most sense to me but the cost is slightly on the higher side not to mention that eventually we would have to regulate light coming through the gigantic window too.

Do check with a Garware distributor well known on the forum. A lot of members have done their cars by him and I have my car as well as kitchen windows tinted by him. Cost was not too bad.

Initially I went for bronze reflective film but then changed to frosted white film after 7 years.

Shreyas Meda +91 99865 02625

https://medawindowfilmincorporation.com/contact/

[samaspire]

Originally Posted by Pancham

This essentially means I need to remove my neighbor's tiles right? Because whatever we do to the tile joints, there is no assurance that he will not use acid to clean his bathroom. That just aggravates my problems because replacing one tile could cause a tile matching issue which the other party (neighbor) might raise. So the problem is slight complex I feel. No? They were kind enough to let my mason inspect their bathroom but were no very receptive. So I am expecting some push back.

Builder has handed over to the new Association who have been operating for some time now; so I doubt there will be any response.

Can't you use Epoxy Grout for the tiles? They will prevent seepage and are also hard wearing so most chemicals will not effect them. You have 2 options, either just regrout that entire bathroom (2 days), OR re-lay the flooring of the entire bathroom so that the slope is proper which eliminates water stagnation. Use Epoxy Grout in the 2nd case also. (3 days). This should take care of the problem for good.

Be nice with the residents there and offer them use of your bathroom during the downtime, if needed. Their cooperation is very necessary for your problem to be solved. Accept whatever it costs you financially as this is a problem that HAS to be fixed ASAP.

Disclaimer: My knowledge of Epoxy Grouts is limited to making brochures for a couple of manufactures of the said product. No practical experience.

[BaCkSeAtDrIVeR]

Originally Posted by Prowler

Don't go with ordinary socket like that for heavy loads like AC. You need to use a metal socket rated at at least 20A or more.
...
plastic sockets develop pitting due to excessive heat generated by poor contacts and burn up.

I'm just back evaluating progress of a new apartment under construction. The work is in advanced stages and electrical fittings are yet to be done. I was looking for 16A sockets for plugging in 1500W vacuum. Not finding any, I asked the builder's site manager who told that they are putting 16A "ordinary" sockets for aircon. And this turns up here. Will check up now.

Originally Posted by Pancham

No we did not see any pipe leakage. It is the water getting clogged near the drain below the basin.

This means you have a case of poor slope in floor above. A clear case of construction defect.

What you choose to do next is up to you.

The place I stay right now is around 10 years old, and the first thing the new members did was to do "pointing" in the bathrooms in all apartments at owner's cost. In your case, if you go to civil court (consumer case may not stand against the present buyer of the upper floor, but he is a necessary party to the litigation. Take legal advice) you stand a good chance of winning. But it will take time.

Originally Posted by Vid6639

Do check with a Garware distributor well known on the forum. A lot of members have done their cars by him and I have my car as well as kitchen windows tinted by him. Cost was not too bad.

My experience is that during night time, when it is dark outside and lights are put on inside, the visibility from outside is very good, even with reflective films. Please correct me if I am wrong.

Originally Posted by samaspire

Can't you use Epoxy Grout for the tiles? They will prevent seepage and are also hard wearing so most chemicals will not effect them. You have 2 options, either just regrout that entire bathroom (2 days), OR re-lay the flooring of the entire bathroom so that the slope is proper which eliminates water stagnation. Use Epoxy Grout in the 2nd case also. (3 days). This should take care of the problem for good.

I dont think his neighbour has a choice. Stagnant water will result in slipperiness and a richer orthopedics. (Oops)

[Traveler]

Anyone here facing the problem of fan regulators going kaput each year. I have tried almost all varieties of fan regulators, the step type which have 1 to 5 speeds, the dimmer types etc.

What happens is that after some months of usage the regulator will either become a single speeds on all but the last step (Where it full become full speed), or only a few speeds will work. The dimmer type also either slows the fan down completely or makes it go full speed.

I have faced this problem in multiple houses over the years which had a variety of fans of different makes. I have to get them changed every year and then the circle of life repeats for another year

I guess it is a universal problem, anyone here experiencing this and is there any solution.

[Hickstead]

I request some one here to suggest good lighting for false ceiling in living and dining area.
This will be for my new 2 BHK flat. It would be of great help, if some one can suggest the wattage that has to be selected based on the area of the rooms. We have provision for 6 lights each in both rooms.

[noopster]

Originally Posted by Traveler

What happens is that after some months of usage the regulator will either become a single speeds on all but the last step (Where it full become full speed), or only a few speeds will work. The dimmer type also either slows the fan down completely or makes it go full speed.

This is such an annoying issue, thanks for raising it! We have a running joke at home that our fans all run at one of two speeds, abysmal and insane!

Even asked our electrician if he can procure one of those old school regulators with the clackety-clack dial that wouldn't fail us for nearly 30 years (maybe longer). But alas they don't seem to be in production anymore!

[ninjatalli]

Originally Posted by noopster

This is such an annoying issue, thanks for raising it! We have a running joke at home that our fans all run at one of two speeds, abysmal and insane!

Originally Posted by Traveler

Anyone here facing the problem of fan regulators going kaput each year.

LOL - I didn't realize this was a common problem! We moved into this house 6 months ago and the regulator(s) started showing this problem. We were wondering on why/how did this happen.

Does this have to do with the smaller regulators quality? Back at home, we had / have those huge box type regulators that have lasted decades and only had to be replaced when the plastic colors used to show the years of abuse

[NPV]

Originally Posted by noopster

This is such an annoying issue, thanks for raising it! We have a running joke at home that our fans all run at one of two speeds, abysmal and insane!

Very common if you've used the light dimmers as fan regulators. We have the Roma (by Panasonic) 5 speed regulators (modular 2 module control) and haven't had issues for over a decade.

[Trust_In_Thrust]

We have two Usha Fans purchased around 3years ago and post 2 years the fan speed has gone down considerably. On opening the fan motor cover i found out the fans are using a different type of capacitor. I am unable to source it and Usha wants a 1000Inr for visit and providing the part . Any idea where I can source it from.