[carboy]

Originally Posted by Aroy

Your door has to be realigned so that it closes naturally, just like refrigerator door.

What do you mean "close naturally"?

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by carboy

What do you mean "close naturally"?

If the camber is neutral an open door will will remain at which ever position it is at. If the camber is one way then it will slowly close if the camber is another way it will open.

[carboy]

Originally Posted by Aroy

If the camber is neutral an open door will will remain at which ever position it is at. If the camber is one way then it will slowly close if the camber is another way it will open.

I do not want the door to close slowly. Nor do I want to open slowly. I want to be in the position it is, and that's how it is most of the time.

My problem happens only because of some light wind - the door opens on it's own slightly - may be around 2 inches or so. I want it to remain closed in the presence of light wind. I don't want the camber to be in a way that it will slowly close - because most of the time I keep the door open - I will have to fit a door stopper to keep it that way then.

What do you think of the magnetic door trap - I have that in my bathroom. That keeps the bathroom doors closed when no one is inside - there is no need to latch it from outside.

[rdst_1]

A strong magnet trap on both top and bottom should work out for you. However, if the times you have to keep the door closed are very less frequent then why don't you use a simple bolt (kundi/chitakni). Either way you choose, it is a cheap solution so you can definitely try the magnetic trap solution before going for the bolt.

[carboy]

Originally Posted by rdst_1

However, if the times you have to keep the door closed are very less frequent then why don't you use a simple bolt (kundi/chitakni).

There is already a bolt. But I want it to be openable from both sides.

[condor]

Help !

Drawer in cabinet is stuck. The handle's broken. Any ideas to open it - without having to cut through ?

The cabinet is custom made, of 19mm ply. This drawer has a veneer surface, and hence not totally flat.

I have fixed two screws in the holes where the handle was mounted, and tried to pull it with these screws. It does not even budge.

There is no space to try and pry it open by pushing in something from the sides of the drawer face-plate

[neofromcapone]

Originally Posted by condor

Help !

Drawer in cabinet is stuck. The handle's broken. Any ideas to open it - without having to cut through ?

The cabinet is custom made, of 19mm ply. This drawer has a veneer surface, and hence not totally flat.

I have fixed two screws in the holes where the handle was mounted, and tried to pull it with these screws. It does not even budge.

There is no space to try and pry it open by pushing in something from the sides of the drawer face-plate

Any other drawers in this cabinet. Can you get some leverage from any other side?
Does it have a channel to move on?
Wood?
Must have expanded due to moisture.
Either wait for it to dry or use hair dryer on the edges.

[AltoLXI]

Originally Posted by condor

Help !

Drawer in cabinet is stuck. The handle's broken. Any ideas to open it - without having to cut through ?

Maybe you can try something like :

Push the tags inside both the holes where the screws were. Hold the thread and pull out.

[condor]

Originally Posted by neofromcapone

Any other drawers in this cabinet. Can you get some leverage from any other side? Does it have a channel to move on? Wood? Must have expanded due to moisture.
Either wait for it to dry or use hair dryer on the edges.

Yes, wood, and moisture is the culprit. Each drawer is separated from others, and no access from back. It does have metal channels for movement.

Originally Posted by AltoLXI

Push the tags inside both the holes where the screws were. Hold the thread and pull out.

The drawer is heavy. These tags look like the ones used for papers. Do you know where can get heavy duty stuff ?

[fine69]

I've recently bought an apartment and will be shifting there next week. All windows in the apartment are with aluminium frames and there's a wide opening to balcony which has a big aluminium frame with 2 sliding doors and 2 fixed glasses.

Is uPVC is the way to go instead of aluminium? The flat is on the first floor so I was planning on changing the frames to uPVC (assuming its much better and durable in the long run) and instead of regular glass use tempered glass.

I wish to do a complete renovation of the flat and have asked similar question earlier also but with me moving in, I need to do it one by one even if it increases the cost a little.

Since there are no major issues I wanted to start with the common bathroom first. This way I would know of the workmanship of the plumber and learnings from this first common bathroom can be used in the remaining two attached bathrooms with master bedrooms.

I was thinking of the following steps -
1) All pipes to be CPVC, all new fixtures & new sanitaryware
2) Waterproofing bathroom floor, ceiling and maybe even walls (if needed)
3) Tiling upto the ceiling (do I still need waterproofing of walls)
4) All electrical cables and switches to be changed (new connections if needed)
5) Change bathroom aluminium window to uPVC window and tempered glass (is tempered glass too expensive?)

The common bathroom size is 5' x 7'10", what kind of spend am I looking at with Jaquar fixtures & sanitaryware and moderately priced popular Bathroom Tiles. I was thinking of spending 60-70k per bathroom.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by fine69

I've recently bought an apartment and will be shifting there next week. All windows in the apartment are with aluminium frames and there's a wide opening to balcony which has a big aluminium frame with 2 sliding doors and 2 fixed glasses.

Is uPVC is the way to go instead of aluminium? The flat is on the first floor so I was planning on changing the frames to uPVC (assuming its much better and durable in the long run) and instead of regular glass use tempered glass.

I wish to do a complete renovation of the flat and have asked similar question earlier also but with me moving in, I need to do it one by one even if it increases the cost a little.

Since there are no major issues I wanted to start with the common bathroom first. This way I would know of the workmanship of the plumber and learnings from this first common bathroom can be used in the remaining two attached bathrooms with master bedrooms.

I was thinking of the following steps -
1) All pipes to be CPVC, all new fixtures & new sanitaryware
2) Waterproofing bathroom floor, ceiling and maybe even walls (if needed)
3) Tiling upto the ceiling (do I still need waterproofing of walls)
4) All electrical cables and switches to be changed (new connections if needed)
5) Change bathroom aluminium window to uPVC window and tempered glass (is tempered glass too expensive?)

The common bathroom size is 5' x 7'10", what kind of spend am I looking at with Jaquar fixtures & sanitaryware and moderately priced popular Bathroom Tiles. I was thinking of spending 60-70k per bathroom.

In my experience, Aluminum is much more robust and long lasting compared to uPVC, so please retain them.
The rest :

1. Yes change the pipes if they are older GI ones. One thing that I have experienced is that most modern appliances need substantial water pressure, so I would suggest that the pipes from the overhead tank to each bathroom and kitchen be 25mm diameter and not the normal 13/18mm.

2. Yes waterproofing is necessary, tiling will only hide damp, which will propagate any way. The best recourse is to use compounds such as Dr Fixit injected at 1m grid on all walls including the floor.

3. Yes (same as 2). This is the time to inspect and change is necessary all the drain pipes.

4. Use 10mm.sq. cables to the main distribution board. 4mm.sq for AC and Geysers. 2.5mm.sq for other power consuming devices and 1mm.sq for lighting. When you are rewiring, have two circuits - one for devices fed off UPS and one that are not.

5. No keep the Aluminum window. Use thicker tempered glass - 8mm or more if you want break resistance/thief proof, else 6mm normal glass is good enough.

Costs.
Normally there are 8-10 stop cocks (taps) and a shower mixer and a sink mixer in a normal bathroom
. Shower mixer
. Sink mixer
. 2 stop cocks for sink
. 1 stop cock for geyser
. 1 stop cock for commode
. 1 commode tap
. 1 stop cock for commode tap
. 1 stop cock for commode hand shower
. 1 hand shower
Total 8 + 2 mixers
You may also want to install one stop cock -25mm at the main pipe in each bathroom. That will ease replacement of fixtures.

For prices please visit Jaguar site, and factor in a discount of 15% to 30%, depending on the dealer. Normally your taps and mixers will cost around 30K for normal range and 60K+ for the exotic ones.

Similarly basins and commode vary between 6K and 30K each for normal ones and go beyong 2L for exotic ones.

Tiles cost between Rs.100 to Rs.250 per square foot and fixing them another Rs.50.

[fine69]

First of all thanks for coming to my rescue, anxiety has gotten the better of me lately.

All points noted, have a few questions though.

Originally Posted by Aroy

4. Use 10mm.sq. cables to the main distribution board.

Do you mean the wiring coming from the main distribution board to the bathroom? Since I'm only doing the bathroom first I don't think it'll be possible to have this cable run from main distribution board to bathroom. And if the bathroom is already done up then rewiring means breaking it again, am I in a catch-22 situation?

Originally Posted by Aroy

When you are rewiring, have two circuits - one for devices fed off UPS and one that are not.

I have 6 kVA backup in the flat so should I still have geyser not run off the backup DG, because even a 3000 watt geyser can work on it. Maybe I didn't understand what you mean.

Originally Posted by Aroy

5. No keep the Aluminum window. Use thicker tempered glass - 8mm or more if you want break resistance/thief proof, else 6mm normal glass is good enough.

The thing is that all windows are functional but a little dirty. Also, they don't feel too solid so is there a way to rejuvenating them? Anodizing or re-powder coating was what I read about, any idea?

Similarly the doors are all functional but the sliding track is all dirty and I thought why don't I change the entire thing with a more robust frame maybe.

I mean I don't see much wrong with them (except that they feel a little flimsy) but don't get that "new" feeling looking at them hence the decision to change them. I guess someone dealing in aluminium frames can help in bringing out the "new" kind of shine in them.

I'll ask around for sure because I'll save great deal of money. From what I've read whole day, even tempered glasses aren't really burglar proof because they CAN be broken if someone wants to. Maybe if there are affordable tempered glasses I can use them instead of the regular glass.

Originally Posted by Aroy

For prices...

This really helps, thanks!

Lastly, does anyone have any experience with this guy? There is some great read material on renovation and what caught my attention was that he'll charge just 10,000 and give me the following -

Technical drawings
– a clear road map
– a complete engineering of all work that will happen in your house
– layout, colour scheme, flooring layout (tiles & marble granite placing), false ceiling layout, electric layout – with legend ( switchboard details), elevation – TV unit, Bed head board, wardrobe elevation, detail drawing (kitchen, wardrobe, bed, tv unit)

Estimates & BOQ
– detailed & itemised estimate that helps you compare & hire contractor
– a detail list of all the material that you or your contractor will buy for your home

http://www.contractorbhai.com/2013/0...n-home-owners/

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by fine69

First of all thanks for coming to my rescue, anxiety has gotten the better of me lately.

All points noted, have a few questions though.

1. Do you mean the wiring coming from the main distribution board to the bathroom? Since I'm only doing the bathroom first I don't think it'll be possible to have this cable run from main distribution board to bathroom. And if the bathroom is already done up then rewiring means breaking it again, am I in a catch-22 situation?

2. I have 6 kVA backup in the flat so should I still have geyser not run off the backup DG, because even a 3000 watt geyser can work on it. Maybe I didn't understand what you mean.

3. The thing is that all windows are functional but a little dirty. Also, they don't feel too solid so is there a way to rejuvenating them? Anodizing or re-powder coating was what I read about, any idea?

4. Similarly the doors are all functional but the sliding track is all dirty and I thought why don't I change the entire thing with a more robust frame maybe.

5. I mean I don't see much wrong with them (except that they feel a little flimsy) but don't get that "new" feeling looking at them hence the decision to change them. I guess someone dealing in aluminium frames can help in bringing out the "new" kind of shine in them.

6. I'll ask around for sure because I'll save great deal of money. From what I've read whole day, even tempered glasses aren't really burglar proof because they CAN be broken if someone wants to. Maybe if there are affordable tempered glasses I can use them instead of the regular glass.

This really helps, thanks!

Lastly, does anyone have any experience with this guy? There is some great read material on renovation and what caught my attention was that he'll charge just 10,000 and give me the following -

http://www.contractorbhai.com/2013/0...n-home-owners/

1. No 10mm.sq is for wiring coming to your flat/floor into the main distribution box. If it is thinner cable, please replace it as all downstream appliances that you are contemplating will ultimately be dependent on this cable.

2. 6 KVA normally is the rated load. The delivered Wattage (KW) is normally 50% to 80% of that. Also along with geyser you will have other appliances - refrigerators, light, microwave and fans, so there will not be much capacity left if you use a geyser.

Actually if you have the space on the terrace, install a Solar Water Heater, that will give you a lot of warm water in winters.

3. Every thing needs periodic maintenance. All new things will look old after some time, as the "New Look" is rarely lasts. Instead of replacing, get the Aluminum cleaned with detergent (do not use chemicals like Sanifresh etc) and some elbow grease. Once you get them cleaned, you can do so every year, say on Diwali

4. Same as point 3. Get the tracks cleaned and maintain them regularly. Remember things are getting more and more expensive every day. A door which cost 2K ten years ago will cost upward of 20K for the same quality wood today. (0.7K per cubic foot of teak vs 4K today, and a door - 6x3 with frame needs 7.5 cu.ft raw wood)

5. Same as 2

6. Tempered glass means that it is toughened against thermal variations and sligh knocks. For burglar proof, you need a tempered glass which is at least 12mm thick and has a wire mesh embedded in it.

For evaluating the quality and seeing the fittings, there are quite a few Shops in GK-I and GK-II markets. There are also a few large Showrooms in Okhla Ph-I/II. Avoid whole sale areas as you will not be able to know the difference between genuine stuff and counterfeight

[JMaruru]

How to get rid of these worms(kinda like earthworms) which surface out of drain/basin covers onto the floor, especially during rains. I have seen many of them in these past few days coz of heavy rains here in B'lore.

Please advise!!

[skchettry]

Friends,
Can some of you suggest names of good interior designers in the western suburbs of Mumbai? I am about to take possession of a new 3 BHK flat in Kandivali East and planning to get the interiors done before moving in (have a limited budget though).
Thanks in advance.
Sravan