[ebonho]

Originally Posted by prabuddhadg

The biggest gain can be from foot retention. If you have doubts about how inclined you are to continue cycling for long and do not want to splurge, I suggest looking at toe clips and straps, and of course pedals that can take these.

I was looking at these my last visit to Decathlon.

http://www.decathlon.in/cycling/spar...lip/p-M8171435

But was not sure how safe they would be in the city, where one has to be ready to free your feet in an instant.

Plus I have no idea which pedals would be needed. Local Indian ones of course. Most of the pedals there cost as much as my bike.

Thanks for the tip. Will add it to my next Stage 2 list of "racer" mods - thinner tyres and drop bar (with curved brakes and top hoods). Or maybe get it immediately since you say its the biggest gain.

You have mentioned an aggressive stance. This will sooner than later lead you to a narrower saddle. The sit bones hardly need the real estate your saddle offers. As your bum hardening spree progresses, you will realise that and will then think of narrower and firmer saddles, which will give your legs more space to move as you pedal.

I agree. I already feel the need to "trim away" some of that inner flare. I had bought this saddle more for the springs. Because the one that came with the bike had very rudimentary 3-coil springs and was narrower. This at the time was pretty luxurious and what the doctor ordered. Don't know if I really want to go for the fancy contoured spring-less saddles of my friends though. Those really look like torture racks! Maybe something in between. Will look around.

You are headed in just the right direction. Keep going!

Thanks buddy! Please keep the advice flowing. Are you the same Prabuddha from bikeszone with the Psynyde frame?

[FINTAIL]

Originally Posted by prabuddhadg

I see you are based in Pune. So, you have quite some nice climbs close to you. Therefore, its just a matter of time before you get fully hooked and start working on your pedalling technique and your bike to help you become better at climbing.
You are headed in just the right direction. Keep going!

I DEMAND A REVIEW OF YOUR PSYNYDE AUTUMN.

Jokes and reviews aside; nice to see you here.

Originally Posted by ebonho

I was looking at these my last visit to Decathlon.

Thanks buddy! Please keep the advice flowing. Are you the same Prabuddha from bikeszone with the Psynyde frame?

I think he is the very same person

Did the contact (You know who he is!) I gave you help? And what about the .... *ahem* *ahem* Roadie?

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by FINTAIL

Did the contact (You know who he is!) I gave you help?

No I have not reached out to ask for help. We quite obviously operate at very different technical (and price) levels.

And what about the .... *ahem* *ahem* Roadie?

If you are speaking about the one I started out wanting to buy, its still safely in the shop.

Buying a roadie (even a budget one) to catch up with expensive MTB/hybrids somehow goes against the grain. Though I saw first hand what 29 inch wheels with thin tyres on a light frame can do last night (Scott Sportster).

When my riding partners eventually start moving to roadies, then probably so will I.

Till then I will keep low budget tinkering and pedaling.

For some reason, the sweat both ends of the price spectrum tastes exactly the same.

[prabuddhadg]

I use the same handle on all fora. But honestly, too much importance is given to equipment. Technique should take way more precedence. And practice.

For improving efficiency, the most effective single piece of equipment would be foot retention. The gain can be felt even more if you're climbing.

Clipless pedals are the most efficient because your foot doesn't accidentally slip out, which can happen with toe clips. But with toe clips you need less practice for removing the foot confidently at a moment's notice.
I'm sure you can find out about toe clips and suitable pedals from Google.

Regarding saddles, I still suggest you take a look at the one your friends have. Basically, less padding means less uncontrolled movement on uneven roads and better pedalling action.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by prabuddhadg

Technique should take way more precedence. And practice.

Will read up on pedaling technique. There is a ton of stuff on You Tube. Saw a few videos on "ankling" etc.

For improving efficiency, the most effective single piece of equipment would be foot retention. The gain can be felt even more if you're climbing.

For toe clips would you suggest the nylon ones of Decathlon or the olden day metal ones?

I guess for city its best to use the simple clips without straps, which you push your foot into, but have freedom of movement laterally to both sides to free the feet up from the pedals when needed.

Also I have seen people on the net drilling holes into the reflectors of one side of their resin pedals and fitting these same clips (sometimes with a metal base plate for extra anchoring/tightening strength). No need for the special cage alloy pedals then.

Clipless pedals are the most efficient because your foot doesn't accidentally slip out, which can happen with toe clips. But with toe clips you need less practice for removing the foot confidently at a moment's notice. I'm sure you can find out about toe clips and suitable pedals from Google.

With clipless pedals you need special riding shoes with cleats. I ride with either my trainers or my trekking shoes (prefer that as it has a stiffer sole with grippy nubs).

Regarding saddles, I still suggest you take a look at the one your friends have. Basically, less padding means less uncontrolled movement on uneven roads and better pedalling action.

Agree. Will look at different saddles as well. Maybe something narrower and more contoured with lesser spring action.

Looking at my rims can you suggest what is the thinnest I can go to in terms of tyre size. I'm hoping something less than 1.75.

Continentals are available for 350 at a shop in Phadke Haud. But the pricier shops which sell Continentals for twice that price claim there are many different qualities available, export rejects, etc. Copies?

Then there are the local Indian Hartex brand (the Arrows on my bike are those in 1.95) which are about 250 bucks. Nylon.

They come in 1.95, 1.75, 1 1/2, 1 1/2 x 1 5/8 (what does this mean - is it thinner or fatter than the previous 1 1/2), and 1 3/8.

I'm guessing the 1 3/8 will be too thin for my rims. Can I go with the 1 1/2 or the 1 1/2 x 1 5/8 or is 1.75 the thinnest I can go?

[prabuddhadg]

You can very well use the nylon toe clips. In fact metal toe clips are pretty hard to find these days. The ones without straps are less effective. In fact the straps if kept loose hardly limit the feet. You can only really retain the feet if you tighten the straps.

When I started off with toe clips and straps, I even had rubber blocks nailed to the soles of my shoes to work as cleats and even rode in early morning traffic with those and the straps tightened. Not recommended, but if you have adequate practice, you can reach down and loosen the straps in time and pull your shoe out of the pedal and not crash.

The pedals I used were locally available and made completely of steel, consisting of an axle with two sheets of metal front and back, something like the one in this link.

http://www.speedplay.com/pedalmuseum...646_resize.jpg

The toe clip is screwed on on the front plate and the strap passes through the space between the rear plate and the axle. Intuitive.

To step off, you simply stop the movement of the foot at the top of the pedalling circle; it frees itself from the pedal. Practise a few times and you get the hang of it.

Then when you go up Lavasa, you thank youself for buying the toe clips.

Regarding tires, I have a Hero Thunder MTB that has over the years got converted to a semi road bike. On its 26" rims I have tried Conti 1.75" tires and Hutchinson 1.2" slick tires as well. So, this should work on your Top Gear rims as well. The only difference is, the Thunder stock rims were alloy. BTW these tires did get flats as often as road tires. So, you need to be careful about debris on the road.

[ebonho]

Originally Posted by prabuddhadg

You can very well use the nylon toe clips.

The ones without straps are less effective.

In fact the straps if kept loose hardly limit the feet.

You can only really retain the feet if you tighten the straps.

If you keep the straps loose, for easy egress, then what advantage to the strapped clips have over the strapless ones.

What about the diagonally placed cloth Power Grips strap? Do we get that locally?

When I started off with toe clips and straps, I even had rubber blocks nailed to the soles of my shoes to work as cleats and even rode in early morning traffic with those and the straps tightened. Not recommended, but if you have adequate practice, you can reach down and loosen the straps in time and pull your shoe out of the pedal and not crash.

Sounds like a very dangerous thing to be doing in the city. Any city. Most any time of the waking day.

The pedals I used were locally available and made completely of steel, consisting of an axle with two sheets of metal front and back, something like the one in this link.

http://www.speedplay.com/pedalmuseum...646_resize.jpg

Ya, those types of pedals are easily locally available. But they will shred the soles of trainers in no time. Plus every time I see them in Decathlon or on my friends' MTBs I wonder what would happen to the rider's shins should his feet slip from the pedals on the down-stroke ....

Why not rubber/resin pedals instead?

Where did you get only the clips and straps from? Price?

Regarding tires, I have a Hero Thunder MTB that has over the years got converted to a semi road bike.

To be honest, started out wanted to do exactly the same on my Top Gear, even though its a steel frame and 2-3 kilos heavier than the Thunder. Do you have a thread somewhere where you've chronicled the conversion with photos? What all did you do besides the handle and brakes and shifters? How did you manage that?

I started out here speaking about the same with Fintail. Am getting a barely used Promax drop bar with Promax brake levers hopefully (with taping as well - though that will have to be removed to get on the shifters). I wanted to mount my Revit grip shifts on to the straight top flat portion. Will the grip shifts go around the curve of the bar?

A drop bar is just so anatomic. I think its the perfect cycle handle configuration. I frankly really don't like these flat bars. They are just not anatomically correct for any increased effort beyond recreational road riding.

Hutchinson 1.2" slick tires as well.

So the 1 3/8 should fit?

[prabuddhadg]

Originally Posted by ebonho

If you keep the straps loose, for easy egress, then what advantage to the strapped clips have over the strapless ones.

You don't need to keep the straps loose. As long as you don't tighten them- just keep a tiny bit of space, your feet will exit easily.

Originally Posted by ebonho

What about the diagonally placed cloth Power Grips strap? Do we get that locally?

Have not tried those.

Originally Posted by ebonho

Ya, those types of pedals are easily locally available. But they will shred the soles of trainers in no time. Plus every time I see them in Decathlon or on my friends' MTBs I wonder what would happen to the rider's shins should his feet slip from the pedals on the down-stroke ....

Why not rubber/resin pedals instead?

If you use toe clips and straps, your feet will only slip out if you are pedalling intensely hard in the rain.

I got the clips and straps from Prabodh Keny in Dadar, Bombay.

Originally Posted by ebonho

To be honest, started out wanted to do exactly the same on my Top Gear, even though its a steel frame and 2-3 kilos heavier than the Thunder. Do you have a thread somewhere where you've chronicled the conversion with photos? What all did you do besides the handle and brakes and shifters? How did you manage that?

The interesting thing about the space on these hardtail rigid fork mtb's is that you can fit 700c wheels and long reach brake callipers.

Originally Posted by ebonho

I started out here speaking about the same with Fintail. Am getting a barely used Promax drop bar with Promax brake levers hopefully (with taping as well - though that will have to be removed to get on the shifters). I wanted to mount my Revit grip shifts on to the straight top flat portion. Will the grip shifts go around the curve of the bar?

I had got the grip shifters fixed on the bar ends like bar end shifters. Your handlebars are not set up low, so it should not be difficult to reach down for shifting.

Originally Posted by ebonho

A drop bar is just so anatomic. I think its the perfect cycle handle configuration. I frankly really don't like these flat bars. They are just not anatomically correct for any increased effort beyond recreational road riding.

Could not agree more. Drop handlebars are the most comfortable way to ride. They offer 5 distinct positions for the hands.

Originally Posted by ebonho

So the 1 3/8 should fit?

I guess so.

All the best!!

[carwatcher]

I ordered Btwin My Bike White (non-geared) from Paytm as I was planning since long time to resume Cycling. I already have a Firefox (geared one) but after doing some research I realized that this one suits my need perfectly. Only drawback is that its MTB though hybrid would have been perfect.

I wish to know whether Hybrid bike tyres can be fixed on this. This basic model also have provision for fitting gears so I can easily upgrade whenever required and if I don't cycle regularly the damage on wallet would be minimal.

Got the bike yesterday and it is really very lightweight and I really enjoyed riding it.

Any tips etc from experts are welcome and as we have sloped roads in Goa so geared bike is must but still decided to go for non-geared one, lets see.

[g_prajeesh]

Hi Guys,

I have gone through the thread and I need your help in buying my first bike. Please help me in this regard

My Requirements are as follows

1. I am new to cycling and I am not sure whether I will be able to keep interest in cycling. So I just want to try
2. By reading the post and valuable inputs from the expert, I am thinking of buying a hybrid cycle
3. The Models I selected are Montra Blues 1.2, Montra Timba 1.2 and Schwinn Super Sport 3.
4. My budget including the accessories is 25k Max
5. Please suggest any other Models

There is an availibilty of Second sale Merida Crossway 20 with disk break + Lock+bell+ stand. He used it only for 10 KM

Asking price is 22K.

Is it a good bike for the price

Thanks in advance for the expert input

[evilshantanu]

Originally Posted by g_prajeesh

...I have gone through the thread and I need your help in buying my first bike. Please help me in this regard

My Requirements are as follows

..

Buddy, if you are just looking to try out a bike, then I have a spare MTB. You can take that from me for some days / weeks to get the hang of cycling.

My take, you wont be able to give it up. We can then re-visit the question of which bike is the best for your needs later. Remember, your cycling needs keeps getting modified :-)

PM me in case you wanna take my bike for some days, we can speak on phone

[g_prajeesh]

Hi Shantanu,

Thank You very much for your kind offer. Meantime I took the rental bicycle from giant for couple of days to try out and see how it goes

I will PM you and get more details from you on buying the bicycle

[miharbe]

So after a lot of deliberation and a longish test ride on my cousin's bike (not sure of the brand) to check whether I will be able to do it or no I finally bit the bullet and bought myself the Firefox Momentum 700 C last Sunday. Hope I have made the right choice

Its funny how such stuff works because I was restarting cycling properly after school (about 15-17 years later). I had a single gear cycle in between but didn't ride it much. I started out with a budget of 10k was willing to go up to 12k as I wasn't sure of how seriously I will take it up again. There is a cycle shop Everest Cycle in Vashi where one of the owner is childhood friend. In his absence, his colleagues first showed me the Firefox Roadrunner Pro V and D. I even spoke to Faisal from Pro9 Bicycle Studio Bandra. He too recommended I go in for the Firefox Roadrunner Pro V.

I went to Everest with the intention of buying the Roadrunner and my friend was there. He refused to sell me the Roadrunner and made me buy this one. I ended up spending more than double my initial budget but somehow this seems worth it as I really enjoyed the first and only ride on the bike (been unwell since).

I am yet to get acquainted with the bike. So far I only know how to adjust the seat and remove the front wheel. Have been advised against removing the rear wheel as its a complex process.

Some of the accessories which have been installed:

1. Bell
2. Front and Rear lights
3. Bottle Holder

Accessories yet to be purchased / installed:

1. Lock (he gave me one and it broke while the wife was "trying" it out. He has promised to give me another one
2. Helmet (need recommendations on which one to buy)
3. Pouch
4. Backpack (probably in the long run for longish rides)
5. Anything else??

Also need suggestions on which app is good for measuring rides. I use Runkeeper for my jogs.

Have taken this solo picture of the bike.

[ebonho]

Congrats bro! I like the stealthy airforce grey look.

What is the size of your tyres?

[B.R.S.Rao]

Recently I had purchased a used Btwin Mybike, M size, from Hyderabad for Rs.3000/- thanks to Olx. Transportation in Kesineni Volvo bus to Manglore was breeze.
I had a brand new, spare Sturmey Archer 3 speed hub and I thought of using it in this single speed Btwin Mybike. I changed the rear rim since I was not satisfied with the quality of the original rim. Mangalore's famous Jyothi Cycle company supplied me a good quality 36h MTB rim and after about 4 hours the final outcome was fantastic. Good , simple cycle with great internal gear hubs. Ride is so smooth. I really like the "unique clicking sound" of Sturmey Archer.

I also ordered Btwin quill stem adapter through Snapdeal and it changed the riding position of Mybike altogether. Here is some photos.