Team-BHP > Shifting gears


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 13th July 2019, 09:58   #4276
Distinguished - BHPian
 
graaja's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Coimbatore
Posts: 1,959
Thanked: 6,488 Times
Default Re: The Bicycles thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hunter3077 View Post
Have made up my mind (99% probably) to go for the bike. It comes with a 105 groupset
Cannondale is a good option as well. Just make sure to take a test ride on the bike before you buy. Though you get details like endurance geometry, race geometry etc., and dimensions, everyone has a different fit based on their body proportions and flexibility. So a test ride is very crucial to know if the bike suits you.

All the best with the purchase.
graaja is online now  
Old 13th July 2019, 13:37   #4277
Senior - BHPian
 
ebonho's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Pune
Posts: 3,943
Thanked: 3,215 Times
Default Re: The Bicycles thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hunter3077 View Post
Cannondale CAAD Optimo 105 came into the picture these last couple of days. Again getting a fair deal wherein the bike that retails for over 90k is available for about 75k. There were questions in my mind about the inclination of the bike towards a racier geometry but figures suggested that synapse and CAAD optimo were sounding similar in the Stack/Reach ratio for my size.
Have made up my mind (99% probably) to go for the bike. It comes with a 105 groupset
As Ganesh said, don't go by numbers only. If one could, many would buy bikes online (without first riding them) ...

The Optimo and Synapse are nothing alike. Cannondale calls the Optimo the "over-achievjng little brother of the CAAD12". That should tell you how it's built and what it's built for.

Just as the CAAD8 is the slightly heads-up older brother of the CAAD10 and the Super Six Evo. Built for a cross-section of riders who for whatever reason want a thoroughbred racing bike, but not the aggressive committed position of one, and without the inherent soft laziness of an endurance bike.

Put the Optimo and the Synapse side by side and look at the frame. It will become very evident what the differences are. Visually.

Cheers, Doc

Last edited by ebonho : 13th July 2019 at 14:02.
ebonho is offline  
Old 13th July 2019, 17:24   #4278
BHPian
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Bangalore
Posts: 122
Thanked: 10 Times
Default Re: The Bicycles thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by mr.kaybee View Post
Hi rdst_1, I'm using this at home, is simple, robust and easy to use. I'm able to mount and remove my Triban 100 fairly easily everyday. Feels like riding in the road if you fiddle a bit with the air pressure of your rear tyre (if the air pressure is high it tends to
slip against the flywheel and give a jittery effect). However, there is no real time feedback whatsoever regarding cadence and power... I feel it is good only with a cadence and power meter attached to your bike. If you are good at judging perceived effort, it's a good buy by itself. Hope this helps!
Been using it for past two years. Weekend warrior of sorts. Sturdy and easy to use.
vjoy3 is offline  
Old 14th July 2019, 22:24   #4279
BHPian
 
bugatti's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: bangalore
Posts: 62
Thanked: 46 Times
Default Re: The Bicycles thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by ebonho View Post
Why is 11-32 an issue? Most roadies with endurance frames and compact cranksets actually come with that so am interested.
My CAAD came with 50-34 and a 12-25 Sunrace cassette which now has been replaced with a 11-32 SRAM PG-830. 11-12-14-16-18-21-26-32.
Attachment 1893065
I'm not yet sure I need the 32 (not till I do Bhor and Lavasa at least) or if a 11 (or 12)-28 wouldn't be better.
Also, unless I'm descending a ghat, I've never found myself in 11 or even 12. So was wondering if I could change the last two cogs to 12 and 13 instead of the current 11 and 12 ... IF I can find individual SRAM Hyper
Glide cogs to match.
Still coming to grips with the roadie gearing after my triple crank hybrid with a 11-34 freewheel.
Cheers, Doc
For my road bike (with Sora), I have a 12-25 cassette which I've used all over Bangalore without issue. A average 50k ride my part of town will net you avg 600m of elevation.

I only changed the cassette to 11-30 2 weeks back to go up Ooty. Will change it back this weekend.

With my 11-30 cassette (this is only for sustained hill climbs, 11-12-14-16-18-20-23-26-30 teeth), I was mostly on the 26 teeth except for the hardest sections. The gear ratios are too wide (the jumps in cassette rings % wise too high) so for regular rides, you won't feel comfortable as it's difficult to feel you're in the "right" gear.

These are the speeds on the respective rings- 26 (10km/hr), 30 (8km/hr), 32 (7km/hr) So see where I'm heading? You might as well disembark and walk (6km/hr). So for non-hill rides, a 11-32 is a bit of a stretch. On the lower side, there are very few times (full-speed downhill) or you have really good legs, that you'll be using the 11 tooth ring. So a more tightly spaced cassette makes a lot more sense.

Compare this with the 12-25 (12-13-14-15-17-19-21-23-25 teeth). See the difference? For a 9 speed, mostly riding in the city and around, the 12-25 9 speed is more than adequate. What this gives you is much smaller teeth jumps. So it's easier to be in the right gear.

Most starting road bikes come with long cage RDs (Claris, Sora). If you want an Ultegra like shifting experience, crisp and fast, use a medium or small cage RD with a cassette like 12-25 (I've used a Tiagra RD-12-25 cassette-SRAM chain)- shifting felt so crisp and clean, it felt no different than using bikes 4x the price of my bike). But this is just for example.

I had been looking for a 11-28 9 speed cassette and was able to get my hands on a used SRAM one recently. This is closer to my liking for semi-regular use if I do hill climbing. Although the 11 is still of less use for me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sebring View Post
I had a Sigma long back. Would be nice if forum members put up pics of bike accessories. Which is the best (in terms of value) cyclo-computer that I can buy in USA?
I have a Sunding wired cyclocomputer (Rs 310)-been using this for 18 months. The wireless version is 500/-.
You can detach them like a clip and carry them around. Even if they get swiped, not much loss. Does the job. I'm happy with mine.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hunter3077 View Post
Cannondale CAAD Optimo 105 came into the picture these last couple of days. Again getting a fair deal wherein the bike that retails for over 90k is available for about 75k. There were questions in my mind about the inclination of the bike towards a racier geometry but figures suggested that synapse and CAAD optimo were sounding similar in the Stack/Reach ratio for my size. Have made up my mind (99% probably) to go for the bike. It comes with a 105 groupset
From what ebonho describes about the CAAD Optimo, the Optimo might not be the right choice.

You started your requirements with a carbon fork and sora groupset. To me, if you are confused between what type of road bike to buy, step back and evaluate why you're going for a 105 groupset and race oriented frame. From your initial research and above post, it feels that, as a first time road bike buyer, you would be better off with a endurance geometry frame road bike.

Stick to Sora and a carbon fork. It will cost up to 50k. Use it for 1-2 years, build up your legs further and then invest 3x that amount in a nice race frame roadie. Good road bikes with Sora can also be upgraded over time.

Honestly speaking, my road bike is available with certain dealers for 35k. But the biggest upgrade you can make to your bike is not the groupset, its the wheels. I've done it on my bike and it rides better than ever. And it doesn't even have a carbon fork.

Read this article to see the order in which you should upgrade stuff on your bike (wheels, tyres, brakes, groupset, saddle).

Riders who get the race oriented road bikes move up to it after they've used the endurance geometry road bikes. The latter is comfortable for long rides and can be used for racing too.
bugatti is offline  
Old 14th July 2019, 23:50   #4280
BHPian
 
Hunter3077's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Vizag/All Over
Posts: 67
Thanked: 474 Times
Default Re: The Bicycles thread

From what ebonho describes about the CAAD Optimo, the Optimo might not be the right choice.

You started your requirements with a carbon fork and sora groupset. To me, if you are confused between what type of road bike to buy, step back and evaluate why you're going for a 105 groupset and race oriented frame. From your initial research and above post, it feels that, as a first time road bike buyer, you would be better off with a endurance geometry frame road bike.

Stick to Sora and a carbon fork. It will cost up to 50k. Use it for 1-2 years, build up your legs further and then invest 3x that amount in a nice race frame roadie. Good road bikes with Sora can also be upgraded over time.

Honestly speaking, my road bike is available with certain dealers for 35k. But the biggest upgrade you can make to your bike is not the groupset, its the wheels. I've done it on my bike and it rides better than ever. And it doesn't even have a carbon fork.

Read this article to see the order in which you should upgrade stuff on your bike (wheels, tyres, brakes, groupset, saddle).

Riders who get the race oriented road bikes move up to it after they've used the endurance geometry road bikes. The latter is comfortable for long rides and can be used for racing too.[/quote]

Wow. You have psychic abilities. Just this evening, I switched off my mind and my phone to declutter my mind. I realised where I started and where I eventually ended. My requirement was an endurance bike within the decided budget. But in the milieu of options and the number of people advising, I kept pushing the limit till I ended up with not so pragmatic options.
So, back to square one. To the drawing board. And ONLY shortlisting ENDURANCE frames with SORA groupset and probably Tiagra.
Some options that I jotted down are :-

1.Giant Contend 1 - Sora
2.Trek Domane AL 3 - Sora
3.Cannondale Synapse Disc Sora
4. Fuji Sportif 2.1-Sora
5. Ridley Damocles 3.1 - Tiagra

Lets see.
Cheers!

Last edited by Hunter3077 : 14th July 2019 at 23:51.
Hunter3077 is offline  
Old 15th July 2019, 11:20   #4281
Senior - BHPian
 
ebonho's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Pune
Posts: 3,943
Thanked: 3,215 Times
Default Re: The Bicycles thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by bugatti View Post
For my road bike (with Sora), I have a 12-25 cassette which I've used all over Bangalore without issue. A average 50k ride my part of town will net you avg 600m of elevation.

I only changed the cassette to 11-30 2 weeks back to go up Ooty. Will change it back this weekend.

With my 11-30 cassette (this is only for sustained hill climbs, 11-12-14-16-18-20-23-26-30 teeth), I was mostly on the 26 teeth except for the hardest sections.
That's a killer climb (Kalahati)! So when you say you shifted to 30 only for the hardest sections, were you glad that you had the 30 or were you spinning a bit too much in it and that is why you say later that a 11-28 would have been better instead?

Quote:
The gear ratios are too wide (the jumps in cassette rings % wise too high) so for regular rides, you won't feel comfortable as it's difficult to feel you're in the "right" gear.

Most cassettes are designed so that the higher gears are closer together (1 to 2 teeth jumps), the middle ones have intermediate jumps (2 to 3 teeth) and the lowest gears, usually the last 3, have jumps of 4 to 5 to even 6 teeth. The rationale is that you need smaller jumps and transitions at higher speeds and for cruising, while bigger jumps are not really that noticeable when the gradients get steeper and you start climbing.

I've noticed an uncomfortable transition in the big ring between the last of my intermediate gears and the first of my lower gears, for instance. Especially on a sustained mild gradient straight, while driving hard, where the higher gear is just a bit too hard, and the next one you find yourself spinning. Not finding the sweet spot in between. But I have an 8 speed Claris to your Sora, so my jumps for the same gear range would be just that bit bigger.

I believe my present cassette would have been more useable if it were a 12-32 instead of 11-32. The 12 would at least have a remote chance of being used, and unlike the current 11, 12, 14, 16, with big gaps at the end with 18, 21, 26, 32, where one gear is essentially wasted up top with too big spacings down low, we could have a more useable and evenly spaced 12, 14, 16, 18 up top, and then a slightly closer and more evenly spaced 21, 24, 28, 32 down low. Or alternatively, if I find even on the tougher longer climbs I am not using the 32 except very briefly, and then spinning too much, then like you maybe there would be a case for a 11-30 or even a 11-28.

P.S. I think I mentioned in my earlier post that my CAAD8 from the factory came with a Claris RD and a 12-25 cassette.

Quote:
These are the speeds on the respective rings- 26 (10km/hr), 30 (8km/hr), 32 (7km/hr) So see where I'm heading? You might as well disembark and walk (6km/hr). So for non-hill rides, a 11-32 is a bit of a stretch. On the lower side, there are very few times (full-speed downhill) or you have really good legs, that you'll be using the 11 tooth ring. So a more tightly spaced cassette makes a lot more sense.

Compare this with the 12-25 (12-13-14-15-17-19-21-23-25 teeth). See the difference? For a 9 speed, mostly riding in the city and around, the 12-25 9 speed is more than adequate. What this gives you is much smaller teeth jumps. So it's easier to be in the right gear.

Agree with you 100%. But for Pune (and I guess Bangalore as well) its always pretty rolling terrain, and their are ghats all around for the weekend rides, as well as the brevets. Every time you change your cassette, you need to re-index your shifting. At least for me (not mechanically and technically inclined to that level), that means workshop visits. Time, effort and recurring costs (not negligible). So much so that doing it a few times would add up to the cost of a new cassette .... So the best compromise is to have a single cassette that allows you everything. At least currently I do not see myself changing cassettes too often. Unless its a flat race or a TT type big event.

Quote:
Most starting road bikes come with long cage RDs (Claris, Sora). If you want an Ultegra like shifting experience, crisp and fast, use a medium or small cage RD with a cassette like 12-25 (I've used a Tiagra RD-12-25 cassette-SRAM chain)- shifting felt so crisp and clean, it felt no different than using bikes 4x the price of my bike). But this is just for example.

As I said, I already have the original Claris RD lying spare (I have a long cage Shimano Alivio RD currently on my bike with the 11-32 SRAM cassette) as the original 12-25 Sunrace cassette. How do I make out whether my Claris RD is a long, medium or short cage? I think I was told that the Claris RD too would have just cleared the biggest cogs on the 11-32, but the Alivio long cage RD would make the shifts a lot better.

Quote:
I had been looking for a 11-28 9 speed cassette and was able to get my hands on a used SRAM one recently. This is closer to my liking for semi-regular use if I do hill climbing. Although the 11 is still of less use for me.
On BOTS I saw 11-28 in both Shimano as well as SRAM for 8 speed.

They also have a 11-28 Shimano for 9 speed ...

https://bumsonthesaddle.com/collecti...=8216753012781



Quote:
I have a Sunding wired cyclocomputer (Rs 310)-been using this for 18 months. The wireless version is 500/-.
You can detach them like a clip and carry them around. Even if they get swiped, not much loss. Does the job. I'm happy with mine.

I have been using a wired Sunding (563a) on my hybrid too for the past 3 years. Excellent! And very accurate and close to Strava. Though you need to protect it from the rain. I've destroyed one display like that. Cost me under 500 bucks as I recall. Planning to get the larger display version (576a) for my road bike too. Unfortunately, neither of them give cadence.

Here are both side by side.

The Bicycles thread-img20190608wa0004.jpg

Cheers, Doc

Last edited by ebonho : 15th July 2019 at 11:23.
ebonho is offline  
Old 15th July 2019, 16:07   #4282
Newbie
 
Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: Pune
Posts: 1
Thanked: 18 Times
Default Re: The Bicycles thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hunter3077 View Post
1.Giant Contend 1 - Sora
2.Trek Domane AL 3 - Sora
3.Cannondale Synapse Disc Sora
4. Fuji Sportif 2.1-Sora
5. Ridley Damocles 3.1 - Tiagra
Can't go wrong with any of them.

From these, get whatever you like the most( the looks, the color) and fits you well. Or, offers the best value for money.

If you are getting the Ridley for a similar price as other, it wins out in the value for money proposition.
Have raced on Tiagra, and have now upgraded to 105(R7000). Can say that the Tiagra performs just as well. It's the number of cogs and weight saving that you get when you go from Tiagra to 105.

Last edited by aah78 : 26th September 2019 at 21:18. Reason: Quote trimmed.
Sudarshan_SMD is offline  
Old 15th July 2019, 16:18   #4283
BHPian
 
bugatti's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: bangalore
Posts: 62
Thanked: 46 Times
Default Re: The Bicycles thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by ebonho View Post
Here are both side by side.
I know the pain in going to the bike store and changing the cassette, but the 12-25 and 11-30 are too different, unless I'm going riding in the hills (not too often), the 12-25 works for now with whatever rolling terrain and hills I ride across as of now.

A 11-28 would be better for regular hills (2-10km in length with gradient upto 5 %). Beyond that, the 11-30 makes more sense. The bike shop mechanic charges me 50/- to change the cassette.

I went up Ooty from Mettupalyam side (Odanthurai). Average gradient was 4.5 % for 55km. The 26 ring worked well. The 30 was too slow. My fellow riders were able to manage well with a 11-25 & 11-28 11 speeds (though both were sub-8kg carbon bikes).

Kalahatty was on the agenda (descent and ascent) but we were out of time and one member's brakes was seizing up so we had to skip it this trip. I would gladly use a 11-32 solely for Kalahatty (I might just carry the 9 speed 11-32 cassette from the Cannondale hybrid next time round). Kalahatty is a crazy climb even with a 11-32.

My entire bike system (except for the Hercules) is 9 speed. 2 weeks back picked up the 11-28 cassette (used), new 9 speed chain, have a new 12-25 cassette, new 11-30 cassette and Tiagra RD (used). I bought the used stuff from a flea market organized by a local bike shop.

Shimano components, including derailleurs, have part numbers stamped on them. Shimano derailleur cages should be stamped with one of the following:

SS - Short cage
GS - Medium cage
SGS - Long cage


The CS-HG400 cassette is a MTB cassette (the CS-HG50 is a road bike cassette). The former is little lighter and cheaper than the latter.

I couldn't find a CS-HG50 9 speed 11-28 (it's available somewhere in Germany, there's also an Ultegra 6500 11-28 9 speed available on ebay but the cassette price alone was 3500+). The current 11-28 SRAM cassette I picked up cost me 500/- at the flea market.

I had seen that you have the 12-25 cassette supplied with the bike. Use that for regular rides. Otherwise, there's a 11-28 HG50 8 speed cassette that might also fit your requirements really well. The last option might be cassette changing tool set (~500/-) to DIY rather than investing in a new cassette.

Last edited by aah78 : 26th September 2019 at 21:18. Reason: Quote trimmed.
bugatti is offline  
Old 15th July 2019, 17:17   #4284
Senior - BHPian
 
ebonho's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Pune
Posts: 3,943
Thanked: 3,215 Times
Default Re: The Bicycles thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by bugatti View Post
Shimano components, including derailleurs, have part numbers stamped on them. Shimano derailleur cages should be stamped with one of the following:

SS - Short cage
GS - Medium cage
SGS - Long cage
Thanks for this info. I'll check and see what it is.

Cheers, Doc
ebonho is offline  
Old 15th July 2019, 20:42   #4285
Senior - BHPian
 
ebonho's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Pune
Posts: 3,943
Thanked: 3,215 Times
Default Re: The Bicycles thread

@bugatti just diesel cleaned the derailleur and checked for the codes you mentioned. Could not find them anywhere buddy. Here are some photos ... much obliged if you could tell me which it is by looking at them.

The Bicycles thread-img_20190715_202551.jpg

The Bicycles thread-img_20190715_202655.jpg

The Bicycles thread-img_20190715_202758.jpg

The Bicycles thread-img_20190715_202853.jpg

The Bicycles thread-img_20190715_203953.jpg

The Bicycles thread-img_20190715_204018.jpg

Cheers, Doc
ebonho is offline  
Old 16th July 2019, 12:27   #4286
BHPian
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Pune
Posts: 685
Thanked: 258 Times
Default Re: The Bicycles thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by ebonho View Post
The rationale is that you need smaller jumps and transitions at higher speeds and for cruising, while bigger jumps are not really that noticeable when the gradients get steeper and you start climbing.
Doc, I am no expert but following is what I had read one of the cycling forum, and I largely agree with it.

Instead of just counting the number of teeth in each shift, what needs to be looked at is the ratio between jumps. So when the ratio is between 1.1 to 1.15, it feels comfortable without severely affecting cadence. Anything above 1.15, the shift doesn't feel natural.

Let's look at smaller gears. 12/11 = 1.09. 13/12 = 1.08. 15/13 = 1.15.

Let's look at intermediate. 19/17 = 1.11. 21 / 19 = 1.10. 24/21 = 1.14.

Bigger gears. 28/24 = 1.16. 32/28 = 1.14.

As you can see, in bigger gears, the ratio is touching 1.14 to 1.16 and hence we get the feeling of spinning too fast. But if we have a cassette which keeps us in the ratio of around 1.1 then we would not get that feeling.

Edit: For your claris post, I don't think claris comes in short cage. So even without the nomenclature, I think it is a long cage derailleur

Last edited by shipnil : 16th July 2019 at 12:29.
shipnil is offline  
Old 16th July 2019, 12:43   #4287
Senior - BHPian
 
ebonho's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Pune
Posts: 3,943
Thanked: 3,215 Times
Default Re: The Bicycles thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by shipnil View Post
Doc, I am no expert but following is what I had read one of the cycling forum, and I largely agree with it.

Instead of just counting the number of teeth in each shift, what needs to be looked at is the ratio between jumps. So when the ratio is between 1.1 to 1.15, it feels comfortable without severely affecting cadence. Anything above 1.15, the shift doesn't feel natural.

Let's look at smaller gears. 12/11 = 1.09. 13/12 = 1.08. 15/13 = 1.15.

Let's look at intermediate. 19/17 = 1.11. 21 / 19 = 1.10. 24/21 = 1.14.

Bigger gears. 28/24 = 1.16. 32/28 = 1.14.

As you can see, in bigger gears, the ratio is touching 1.14 to 1.16 and hence we get the feeling of spinning too fast. But if we have a cassette which keeps us in the ratio of around 1.1 then we would not get that feeling.

Edit: For your claris post, I don't think claris comes in short cage. So even without the nomenclature, I think it is a long cage derailleur
Yes I've read about the 1.15 ratio too. In my current road bike rear cassette (SRAM PG-830) it's actually a lot more in the lower gear jumps ... but that is normal and how most cassettes are designed (bigger jumps in the climbing gears vs the speed ones).

High - 12/11=1.09, 14/12=1.17,

Intermediate - 16/14=1.14, 18/16=1.13, 21/18=1.17,

Low - 26/21=1.24, 32/26=1.23.

The two other slightly more evenly spaced combination cassette combinations would have given the following:

11, 13, 15, 17, 20, 23, 26, 32 (SRAM PG-850 and Shimano HG30) - 1.18, 1.15, 1.13, 1.18, 1.15, 1.13, 1.23

11, 13, 15, 18, 21, 24, 28, 32 (Shimano HG50 Claris, Shimano HG51 Alivio, Shimano HG31 Altus) - 1.18, 1.15, 1.20, 1.17, 1.14, 1.17, 1.14

The last as you can see puts the biggest jump in the center, which is your cruising range and not quite optimal.

The second one seems to be the most evenly spaced throughout, till the last big jump.

The first one (which I have) is somewhat like a MegaRange (Alpine) combination ... which is a mix of a close spaced cassette with two big jumps at the end.

Cheers, Doc

Last edited by ebonho : 16th July 2019 at 13:10.
ebonho is offline  
Old 16th July 2019, 13:25   #4288
BHPian
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Pune
Posts: 685
Thanked: 258 Times
Default Re: The Bicycles thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by ebonho View Post

The last as you can see puts the biggest jump in the center, which is your cruising range and not quite optimal.

The second one seems to be the most evenly spaced throughout, till the last big jump.
While we are on the topic of Cassettes, my current one has intermediate gears as ..16-18-21-24.. The problem I face more often is 18 is bit stiff on slow inclines and 21 is I start spinning a bit more than I'd like to. So I was looking at either 16-18-20-22 or 17-18-19-21. First one, I have to compromize on biggest gear. Second one, I think Shimano has one HG-50 with that combination in an 11-28 cassette. My question, would my wheel hub be compatible with 11 smallest cog? My current one is a Sunrace with 12 as the smallest.
shipnil is offline  
Old 16th July 2019, 13:49   #4289
Senior - BHPian
 
ebonho's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Pune
Posts: 3,943
Thanked: 3,215 Times
Default Re: The Bicycles thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by shipnil View Post
While we are on the topic of Cassettes, my current one has intermediate gears as ..16-18-21-24.. The problem I face more often is 18 is bit stiff on slow inclines and 21 is I start spinning a bit more than I'd like to. So I was looking at either 16-18-20-22 or 17-18-19-21. First one, I have to compromize on biggest gear. Second one, I think Shimano has one HG-50 with that combination in an 11-28 cassette. My question, would my wheel hub be compatible with 11 smallest cog? My current one is a Sunrace with 12 as the smallest.
I suspect I am facing the exact same issue (noticed particularly on Solapur road runs when returning ...)

Instead of 18 to 21 in the big ring, we probably could see of it becomes slightly better by dropping to the smaller ring and moving up two gears at the back to 14, to make the transition smoother.

Just to put number to it - 18 to 21 staying in the big ring (I'm assuming yours in 50 too) means shifting from a gear ratio of 2.78 to 2.38

Whereas shifting down to the smaller ring (34) and shifting up to 14 at the back would mean shifting from a gear ratio of 2.78 to 2.43

Cheers, Doc

P.S. What Sunrace cassette combination do you currently have? How many speed? And why do you want to shift to 11? Unless you have the legs, 11 is virtually unuseable, and to me at least its a wasted gear, leading to spacing compromises elsewhere.

Last edited by ebonho : 16th July 2019 at 13:53.
ebonho is offline  
Old 16th July 2019, 14:55   #4290
BHPian
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Pune
Posts: 685
Thanked: 258 Times
Default Re: The Bicycles thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by ebonho View Post
Instead of 18 to 21 in the big ring, we probably could see of it becomes slightly better by dropping to the smaller ring and moving up two gears at the back to 14, to make the transition smoother.
With moving between the bigger and smaller cranks, better gear ratio is possible but it takes slightly longer, shift is not smoother on claris front and you have to keep remembering to do it. It is not optimal as once the small incline is over, I get comfortable at 18 or even 16. So constantly switching both front and back may not be very efficient

Quote:
P.S. And why do you want to shift to 11? Unless you have the legs, 11 is virtually unusable
I think I was not clear in my previous post. The motivation for new cassette is not 11 teeth cog but rather the optimal intermediate gear ratios in that cassette, 17-19-21. Like you too, I believe 11 is not a useful gear for us recreational cyclists. Why 11, even 12, I feel is not quite useful. I end up using it only while I am coming down the hill or flyovers.

The question was more like, would the current hub be able to accommodate a cassette with smallest cog being 11. Long back read somewhere that 11 has different internal diameter.

I have a claris groupset with Sunrace cassette. 12-14-16-18-21-24-28-32
The one I have my eyes set on. Shimano CS-HG50-8 BF group. 11-13-15-17-19-21-24-28

I know I'd be dropping 32, but then I have never used it. 28 with small crank is good enough.
shipnil is offline  
Reply

Most Viewed
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Copyright 2000 - 2020, Team-BHP.com
Proudly powered by E2E Networks