[FINTAIL]

Originally Posted by rust_in_peace

At last on 2013 I ended up in buying an entry level Trek 1.1 while keeping my MTB for shorter rides and on monsoon. Till now i have successfully completed three 200 BRM's and one 300BRM and dreaming of 400 and 600BRM.
Now I am thinking of an upgrade to a better road bike with better group set preferably TREK. When you are investing on a bike, stretch your budget as much as you can.
It will save a lot of money you are going to spent on upgrades in coming future. If you have any cycling friends ask them to help you. They will agree, because mostly bikers and runners are different breed.

Originally Posted by graaja

the road

And another fellow with an MTB running on slicks decides to change over to a road bike. I'll be retaining my 2012 Montra Rock-I, which has run almost 8k kms.

Now, which of these entry level roadies is preferred-

A] A Trek 1.1 (old stock, or brand new. Discounted or otherwise)

B] 2014 Schwinn Fastback 3.

Doubtless, I'll buy in 2015, for 'em ever elusive discounts. But, which of these is to be preferred? Tyres will be Conti Gatorskins, from day 1.

The more niggle free, the better. Daily usage will be nearly 13 kilometers.

[graaja]

Originally Posted by FINTAIL

Now, which of these entry level roadies is preferred-

A] A Trek 1.1 (old stock, or brand new. Discounted or otherwise)

B] 2014 Schwinn Fastback 3.

Doubtless, I'll buy in 2015, for 'em ever elusive discounts. But, which of these is to be preferred? Tyres will be Conti Gatorskins, from day 1.

The more niggle free, the better. Daily usage will be nearly 13 kilometers.

From the specifications, there are two main differences between the Trek and Schwinn. The front crank set of Trek is a 50/34 compact one with two gears, whereas the Schwinn has 50/39/30 triple crankset. Also, the Trek has 11-28 8 speed cassette, whereas Schwinn has 12-25 8 speed. At the lowest gear, both Trek and Schwinn have almost the same ratio 34/28 vs. 30/25. So, both will have similar ratios for climbs. On the higher side, Trek has the higher ratio 50/11 vs. 50/12. This makes Trek the faster of the two. Also, Trek has a carbon fork whereas Schwinn has alloy. So, if you are not particular about the 24 gear combinations available in the Schwinn compared to the 16 available in Trek, I would go for the Trek.

Just to add to your confusion, I would also suggest you to have a look at the Scott Speedster 50. The advantage of S50 is that it comes with a Sora rear deraileur which is one class above the Claris deraileur that comes with Trek. You may get smoother gear shifts (but I do not know how much difference would be there between the two). Also, Scott comes with a 11-30T cassette which is as fast as Trek on the higher ratio, and has a much easier gear ratio of 30/30 at the lowest end, which makes it the easiest on climbs.

But whatever bike you choose, make sure to take a test ride on various frame sizes and choose the one that is the most comfortable to ride.

[bbhavan]

Friends,

I am planning to start a fresh venture on cycling thanks to this thread..

RR 5.0 is the one which I am thinking about, but couple of doubts.

1. Can I use this MTB regularly for normal roads? One of the major factors which Got me inclined to this cycle is the looks and also the budget. The road bikes are some what expensive.

2. I have never used gears in cycles before. Can i simply select a normal gear ratio and continue riding without thinking too much on it?

3.Can my son (11 years old) also ride it? Means will there be any height related issue?

[FINTAIL]

Originally Posted by bbhavan

1. Can I use this MTB regularly for normal roads? One of the major factors which Got me inclined to this cycle is the looks and also the budget. The road bikes are some what expensive.

2. I have never used gears in cycles before. Can i simply select a normal gear ratio and continue riding without thinking too much on it?

3.Can my son (11 years old) also ride it? Means will there be any height related issue?

1} MTB's can regularly be used on normal roads. However, for increased rider, and bicycle efficiency, an upgrade to slicks is a must at the showroom level itself. A drastic improvement, which totally changes the characteristics of the cycle, I assure you.

2} Nah, gears are a must. Seen how your engine strains to pull any longer in first, after a certain speed? Same with your knees. Only thing is that- The engine will take more fuel, and your knees will pain, and you shall face increased tiredness.

That said, the 3-5/3-6/3-7 gears work quite well in all speeds. Quick, and yet the fifth gear is good enough for climbing slopes upto a certain gradient. Just shift within these three gears, at least for the initial kilometers.

3} Let me tell you, no height related issue will take place. The seat column just takes less than 1/2 a minute to adjust. Apply pressure, unscrew the lever. Increase/Decrease the height, and screw, and tighten the lever.

No tools required. A hand will be more than enough, no?

Let me assure you, you will be buying a roadie quite soon. Nearly 8k kms, and I'm already bored of my 2012 Montra.

Oh, and servicing at 2k km intervals is a bit expensive, mind you.

[mail4ajo]

Originally Posted by Axe77

B I believe the Pune store only retails Specialized brand so you'll have to buy it from their Bangalore store. I think they should be able to deliver it packed to other cities as well so Delhi or Mumbai should be possible.

I was told that henceforth, BOTS will only have Specialized branded stores in cities that they start operations. But they will continue to deal with items online and BLR Jayanagar. I am sure you can check with Pune store. You have a nice person called Suraj.

Originally Posted by FINTAIL

3} Let me tell you, no height related issue will take place. The seat column just takes less than 1/2 a minute to adjust. Apply pressure, unscrew the lever. Increase/Decrease the height, and screw, and tighten the lever.

For short distances, you can get away with it. But over longer distances, importance of bike fit comes into play. But if you both have similar inseam length, should be ok.

[bbhavan]

Originally Posted by FINTAIL

1} MTB's can regularly be used on normal roads.

Can i still have wider tyres If i go for slick types?

Originally Posted by mail4ajo

For short distances, you can get away with it. But over longer distances, importance of bike fit comes into play. But if you both have similar inseam length, should be ok.

Thanks mail4ajo. Our heights are obviously different. Means i have to settle for two bikes

Originally Posted by FINTAIL

1} MTB's can regularly be used on normal roads.

Let me assure you, you will be buying a roadie quite soon. Nearly 8k kms, and I'm already bored of my 2012 Montra.

Oh, and servicing at 2k km intervals is a bit expensive, mind you.

Thanks Fintal. Means I need to search for a road bike again.
Confused whether should I increase my budget to go for Merida/Trek.
Only worry is how far this new found enthusiasm will hold on after buying an expensive item.

What about hybrid bikes? Can it be a better alternative than MTB?

[FINTAIL]

Originally Posted by graaja

From the specifications, there are two main differences between the Trek and Schwinn. The front crank set of Trek is a 50/34 compact one with two gears, whereas the Schwinn has 50/39/30 triple crankset.

A] So, to sum it up, the Trek is faster, and is better overall. Right? Let us add the Orbea T23 Aqua to this rather complex equation. How does it fare?

B] Since you & I come from pretty similar backgrounds in cycling, (MTB. Then, MTB + Slicks, and now this...), would you tell me whether a Roadie is totally worth it? I need utmost reliablity, and I clock a lot of miles on the road. But the issue is, is it fast?

What are the average speeds when compared to an MTB + Slick combination. Service costs et cetera.

Also, the top speeds, and rider fatigue in relation to an MTB + Slicks.

: The maximum speed yet achieved in my 2012 Montra Rock-I is 68ish. So, nearly 70 KMPH. With slicks on, of course. With 'em knobbly MTB tyres, the bike can barely exceed 45+.

Originally Posted by bbhavan

What about hybrid bikes? Can it be a better alternative than MTB?

As Kelly Johnson once said, "Keep it simple, stupid!"

Cycling is painful. Sure. Many a time you will be tempted to just dump the cycle unceremoniously beside the road. Just the sheer price of the bike will prevent you from doing so.
8k kilometers on, no regrets.

It really does not make sense to dump a pile of money on a road bike, only to realise you do not like it.

The best advice I can give you is- Double your budget. Go and get yourself a '14 Montra Blues. Get a good set of rim and tube liners installed. Add a cyclometer as well. Service it at 2k km intervals.

Basic enough to to teach you the tricks of the trade. Fast enough to keep up with the Cannondale MTB's on the road. ( Depends a lot on the rider, yet...). And yes- A good brand image. Rapid-Fire shifters as well.

'Nuff said. Oh yes, the biggest advantage is- This one is road oriented, yet is capable of some light off roading. A bike for all seasons and situations. Rather, "Jack of all trades" is more apt in this case.

http://www.montra.in/hybrid/blues-1-1

[graaja]

Originally Posted by FINTAIL

A] So, to sum it up, the Trek is faster, and is better overall. Right? Let us add the Orbea T23 Aqua to this rather complex equation. How does it fare?

Could not find the Orbea T23 spec for 2014. 2013 spec says the components are 2300. If they have Claris for 2014, then it should be similar to Trek 1.1

Originally Posted by FINTAIL

A]
Since you & I come from pretty similar backgrounds in cycling, (MTB. Then, MTB + Slicks, and now this...), would you tell me whether a Roadie is totally worth it? I need utmost reliablity, and I clock a lot of miles on the road. But the issue is, is it fast?
What are the average speeds when compared to an MTB + Slick combination. Service costs et cetera.

Also, the top speeds, and rider fatigue in relation to an MTB + Slicks.

Yes, the roadie is fast. On the regular road that I ride, my average with the Trek+Slicks used to be 21kph. With the roadbike, it is around 25kph, and is improving every day. The average speed depends on various factors like road condition, rider fitness etc. I have seen some guys in my group do an average of 30+ on their road bikes.

On the maintenance part, yes, expect it to be on the expensive side. Plan for a complete service every 2k. I paid 750 for a full service recently. As I have only ridden my bike for 2.4k km, I do not know the exact cost involved in component replacement. However expect to change the tires and chain after 3000 to 5000km, cassette after 5000 to 10000km, and so on.

Rider fatigue depends mostly on the fitness of the rider and the bike fit. In the beginning, I used to find it tough to ride 50km. Now I can comfortably do a 100k at an average of 24kph. Earlier, I used to get pains in my knee and shoulders after 2 hours on the saddle. I got a bike fit done from a professional, and now I can stay on the saddle 5+ hours without any pain.

Originally Posted by FINTAIL

A] : The maximum speed yet achieved in my 2012 Montra Rock-I is 68ish. So, nearly 70 KMPH. With slicks on, of course. With 'em knobbly MTB tyres, the bike can barely exceed 45+.

I am not a fast rider. The maximum speed I have touched (for a very brief moment though) with the roadie is 60. My maximum with MTB+Slicks was 48.

Summarizing, in my opinion a roadie is definitely worth it. In the 4 years I rode the Trek 4300, I had done about 1500km. With the Trek, my regular rides used to be 20km to 25km, with occasional 50km rides in the weekend, and 70km being the longest ride. In the 5 months since I bought the Scott speedster, I have done about 2.4k km. My regular practice rides are 40 to 50km, and week end rides are anywhere from 80 to 120km, and the longest ride is 215km.

I would say "Go For It!"

[FINTAIL]

Originally Posted by graaja

I am not a fast rider. The maximum speed I have touched (for a very brief moment though) with the roadie is 60. My maximum with MTB+Slicks was 48.

A last question- (Rather, last, but not the least. Many more to follow. )

Can a roadie sustain speeds to 55-65 ish over a longer distance? Say, over 80-100 km? And could you estimate the top speed? In the range of 90-110?

And how are they at 60+ speeds? Unsettled perhaps? or so quick that you didn't realise that you were at such speeds?

[Axe77]

Originally Posted by FINTAIL

A last question- (Rather, last, but not the least. Many more to follow. )



Can a roadie sustain speeds to 55-65 ish over a longer distance? Say, over 80-100 km? And could you estimate the top speed? In the range of 90-110?



And how are they at 60+ speeds? Unsettled perhaps? or so quick that you didn't realise that you were at such speeds?

55-65 kmph average speed sounds a tad ambitious. 90-110 kms top speed is achievable though, possibly even more, provided the rider is falling off a cliff or something I think. ;-)

On a serious note though, just for perspective, you might want to check what avg speeds Tour de France riders clock (has lots of mountains and climbs included of course). And then see what might be an amateur / leisure rider benchmark working backwards from there. You could also check mumbai randonneurs to see how long riders are taking to complete 100 km brevets.

I'd say a decent roadie would average 28-34 kmph but I'm really just making a educated guess.

[graaja]

Originally Posted by FINTAIL

A last question- (Rather, last, but not the least. Many more to follow. )

Can a roadie sustain speeds to 55-65 ish over a longer distance? Say, over 80-100 km? And could you estimate the top speed? In the range of 90-110?

And how are they at 60+ speeds? Unsettled perhaps? or so quick that you didn't realise that you were at such speeds?

55-65ish speeds are not possible over long distances. The world record for 1 hour time trial is 51.85km, that too with very light aerodynamic bicycle and super fit athlete.

If you are average fit, expect an average from 24 to 28kph. If you are very fit, then an average of 30 to 33kph should be achievable over 80 to 100km distance. Covering 100km in 3 hours is considered a feat. Remember, the average speed greatly depends on the road you ride as well. The numbers I have given are for flat roads.

[bbhavan]

Originally Posted by FINTAIL

http://www.montra.in/hybrid/blues-1-1

Thanks Fintal.

I'll definitely add the above in my shortlists. Meanwhile is there any one else who ride this bike? Your inputs will be valuable... Thanks

[FINTAIL]

Originally Posted by bbhavan

Thanks Fintal.

I'll definitely add the above in my shortlists. Meanwhile is there any one else who ride this bike? Your inputs will be valuable... Thanks

PM @ mp417.

: I'm FINTAIL. Not Fintal.

[mp417]

Originally Posted by bbhavan

Thanks Fintal.

I'll definitely add the above in my shortlists. Meanwhile is there any one else who ride this bike? Your inputs will be valuable... Thanks

I have been using Montra Blues 1.1 for last three months. Thanks to @Fintail for helping me in finalizing this purchase.

I have completed around 400 kms. This bike is really awesome and not too expensive. Very easy to ride. Have never faced any issue other than a minor puncture.

As far as using bicycle gears are concerned, even I was not sure initially but you get used to it. See the video at the end of my post.

Here's my ride.





Go through following video which explains in simple way how to use bicycle gears.

http://youtu.be/lBCDndcljDo

Originally Posted by FINTAIL

A] Get a good set of rim and tube liners installed. Add a cyclometer as well. Service it at 2k km intervals.

My first puncture was due to a stupid thorn (not even a nail) and it was very small
Observed that the stock tires are very soft. I have not yet installed tube liners. Is it a must have?

[FINTAIL]

Originally Posted by mp417

My first puncture was due to a stupid thorn (not even a nail) and it was very small
Observed that the stock tires are very soft. I have not yet installed tube liners. Is it a must have?

Tyre compounds tend to harden up with age. Give it another 1000 kilometers, and check it. It will have hardened.

Lastly, are you running rim liners? If present, half the issue is solved.

See, there seem to be two types of liners- A] The one between the rim and tube. (Rim liners) Mostly factory fit. Though two layers of these can make a real difference, as in my case.

B] The one between the tube and tyre. (Not really sure about these)

B is not really needed, IMO. Although a combination of both of these can really do wonders, wrt punture resistance.

I'm using 2 liners between the rim and tube. 2k kms, and zero punctures.