[XetaGLGRocks]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

@XGR, now even the ICE rocks, one can say! Badhai ho!!!

Wouldn't it be simpler to strategically place thick thermocol blocks between the door inner metal and the door pad? Thick like the packing material that come with some large appliances and r-t-a furniture. Size the blocks just a shade larger than the gap between the door pad and door metal, so that they compress a little when the door pad is mounted. Stick them on the door pad before mounting.

This should supplement the damping on the door pad, which just HAS to be done.

@DerAlte : Thanks a ton. For the time being the doorpad inner surface is not yet damped. The damping has been done only on the inner and outer layers of the door itself. However, I still have excess damping material left. So I will use it to damp the inner surface of the doorpad. And that thermocol idea is brilliant. I will do that too this weekend.

The guy who was doing the damping, paid enough attention not to foul the central locking mechanism, but it seems that a bit of tar is fouling with the rod. Got to have the right doorpad opened once again and fix that too.

[ultimatechamp]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Wouldn't it be simpler to strategically place thick thermocol blocks between the door inner metal and the door pad? Thick like the packing material that come with some large appliances and r-t-a furniture. Size the blocks just a shade larger than the gap between the door pad and door metal, so that they compress a little when the door pad is mounted. Stick them on the door pad before mounting.
This should supplement the damping on the door pad, which just HAS to be done.

DerAlte Sir ji, can the thermocol thing be done as a substitute for regular damping material? Or you suggesting that as a add-on with normal damping mats and gels? Atleast thermocol damping would be so much more cheaper and easier option.

Originally Posted by XetaGLGRocks

That was great Daktar Saab. I see that your command over language is also commendable. As discussed over the phone, lets meet up one day. The ICE upgrade is not complete without appreciations from listeners.

Am honoured Sir! Anytime that suits you.

[razor4077]

Just had a listen to the system, and I must say, it was very very nice. Very smooth with the right amount of bass supplementing it. The damping, new wiring and new HU have done wonders for the setup. The Alpine HU looks awesome, and is miles ahead of the older Sony he had in terms of SQ.
It was nice to see the transformation... from the booming bass, high treble setup to the system as it stands now. Money and effort well spent... enjoy the music Xeta bhai

[DerAlte]

No, daktar-babu, the thermocol cannot be a substitute for the regular damping. It will only prevent the speaker from going forward and backward due to the rear wave lows. The damping does not make the pad stiff, it only takes away the energy from the vibrations. The ways of making the pad stiff for the speaker are many - spacer, FG backing, patties (wood / steel, not chicken) stuck with Araldite etc. - the thermocol will keep it stiff by pressure (jugaad method!).

[navin]

[quote=DerAlte;919991Wouldn't it be simpler to strategically place thick thermocol blocks between the door inner metal and the door pad?[/QUOTE]

Originally Posted by XetaGLGRocks

So I will use it to damp the inner surface of the doorpad.

Originally Posted by razor4077

The damping, new wiring and new HU have done wonders for the setup.

Originally Posted by DerAlte

The ways of making the pad stiff for the speaker are many - spacer, FG backing,

1. Thermacol might deteriorate if it gets wet. If rain enters the door this can lead to more problem than solution .

2. damping the inner surface helps lowering the resonace frequency of the door pad. It does not however stiffen the door pad much. damping material as you will see is quite pliable.

3. Damping is the "best bang for the buck" upgrade anyone can do to a good system.

4. I have tried using FRP (resin bonded FG) and it is awfully messy for door pads. One has to be very, very, very careful that no resin leaks into the locking or window winding mechanisims. However if one considers stiffness per kg there is not much that is better than FRP. For the brave I would suggest a combination of FRP and damping, for the rest just damping will do.

[DerAlte]

Navin, thermocol is non-degradable other than by solvent / plasticiser fumes. It is closed cell so water doesn't affect it. The practical problem is the (foam) cells collapsing under pressure over time - the denser packing material is better (Bean bags contain the same material, albeit the cells are small separate spheres). As I said earlier, thermocol would be the jugaad method, for controlling rattling in FRP door pads, not overall vibration. Some amount of panel resonance is controlled since the larger expanses would be broken up by the contact pressure.

Despite the risks of resin flow and the time taken to complete the job, even I would prefer the FRP method for stiffening the door pad. The biggest problem would the uneven exposed surface affecting adhesion of the damping material, so the FG must be laid in strips.

[navin]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

Despite the risks of resin flow and the time taken to complete the job, even I would prefer the FRP method for stiffening the door pad. The biggest problem would the uneven exposed surface affecting adhesion of the damping material, so the FG must be laid in strips.

and use mat instead of woven fiber.

[XetaGLGRocks]

Hi everyone. I was in two minds over buying a two channel amp to power the GZ sub, as somehow it was underpowered. After a lot of discussion and research, settled down on the Panasonic CY-PA2003U.

Getting it from the US, a freind has picked it up for $100.
Will get it in the first week of Feb 2009.

Just dying to get my hands on that one.

[Bass&Trouble]

Nice amp for the price. Will work well.

[adityamunshi]

Where are you buying it from ? Because $ 100 is a real good price !

Originally Posted by XetaGLGRocks

Hi everyone. I was in two minds over buying a two channel amp to power the GZ sub, as somehow it was underpowered. After a lot of discussion and research, settled down on the Panasonic CY-PA2003U.

Getting it from the US, a freind has picked it up for $100.
Will get it in the first week of Feb 2009.

Just dying to get my hands on that one.

[greenhorn]

i got some damping done to my doorpads alone using felt. was cheap and helped cure the rattles to a large extent. pics of the process in my showoff thread

[XetaGLGRocks]

Originally Posted by adityamunshi

Where are you buying it from ? Because $ 100 is a real good price !

Got it brand new on Ebay-US. Seller is Sonicelectronix. However, on the Sonicelectronix site they have a higher quote. The discounted price was available on ebay.

Originally Posted by Bass&Trouble

Nice amp for the price. Will work well.

@B&T : If I am not wrong this was the amp which you had suggested in earlier threads saying that it makes the sub kick more than Jackie Chan Movies .
SOme specs say it provides 480Watts bridged, some say 380 watts.
Which one is correct?

Note from the Team-BHP Support Staff : Please use the "edit" button if posting within 15 minutes of the first post, instead of creating another back-to-back post

Also use "Multi Quote" option for quoting Multiple posts.

[adityamunshi]

Great choice, the sub's gonna kick real hard once you have that installed

Originally Posted by XetaGLGRocks

Got it brand new on Ebay-US. Seller is Sonicelectronix. However, on the Sonicelectronix site they have a higher quote. The discounted price was available on ebay.

[Bass&Trouble]

Originally Posted by XetaGLGRocks

@B&T : If I am not wrong this was the amp which you had suggested in earlier threads saying that it makes the sub kick more than Jackie Chan Movies .
SOme specs say it provides 480Watts bridged, some say 380 watts.
Which one is correct?

Considering that is does offer a lot more power to a SVC 4 ohm sub than most monos and 4-ch amps in bridged mode. And yes, $ 100 is a very nice price. The amp must be about 350 watts realistically.

[ultimatechamp]

Originally Posted by XetaGLGRocks

@B&T : If I am not wrong this was the amp which you had suggested in earlier threads saying that it makes the sub kick more than Jackie Chan Movies .

Still waiting for my ICE Xeta Ji,but hoping to hear another round of your's soon.