[Beast_of_Burden]

Kevin Cameron of Cycleworld has written about the twins.

https://www.cycleworld.com/royal-enf...th-latest-tech


By all accounts and in my mind this is more UJM than classic British. Very attractive package, will book once the dust settles.

[HandfulOfHell]

This is a beautiful ownership review! Your notes on practical aspects of the bike are very useful. I read elsewhere that the Interceptor's foot pegs are mounted on a separate sub-frame as opposed to the GT. How is the sub-frame attached to the main frame, can it be changes to give Interceptor's foot-pegs slightly better positioning?

As an aside, I'd really like to see an all-round lights package for the Interceptor which is more modern (read clear lens) and stylish (read led) that position it away from plain retro to perhaps a little more edgy, aka the Street Twin. What do you think?

Also, it will be great to have the engine covers in matt black which will contrast the cylinders and the exhausts to give it a neo-retro look. What are your thoughts?

[PrasannaDhana]

Congratulations on buying a great bike!
Hope it proves to be reliable.

And people who expect motorcycles to crawl at 20-30 kmph at 3rd, 4th and 5th gears citing convenience, please buy an activa. No offence to anyone but it gets too old.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by PrasannaDhana

And people who expect motorcycles to crawl at 20-30 kmph at 3rd, 4th and 5th gears citing convenience, please buy an activa. No offence to anyone but it gets too old.

The feeling was mutual until we did a 1610 km's 3 day ride around Yercaud and Pondy starting from Trivandrum, as you can imagine we were riding in less than ideal road conditions.



While the NS and P220 were fine on limited highway stretches we were at wits end on the tighter/denser sections which was the majority, both of us could often be seen bouncing off the limiter here and there in frustration and were visibly irritated, whereas the N300 in the group was gliding in final drive at speeds as low as 40 Kmph to speeds over 130 Kmph without breaking a sweat also to note that the rider on-board the N300 was older than both me and the NS rider and was not a frequent interstate rider at the time.

In comparison both the NS and P220 cannot go anywhere under 80 Kmph in final drive when loaded.

Though I still am strictly against coasting, even I had to admit that in trying situations it helps to have a motorcycle with an even torque spread which I guess is what the other users were mentioning in favor of the Interceptor.

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by Kosfactor

Low engine speeds and high gear was okay with old engines, the fuel injected engines do not like this. They will calculate load and increase fueling, which isn't ideal.

Mate that is so not true as many modern motorcycles with ECU and EFi do have the feature of FTC. I have mentioned some examples in my post. Kindly have a look at it. TeamBhpian Sojogator has confirmed about the same on his Kawasaki Z800 as well. In no way does it damage the engine when the manufacturer themselves highlight it as a feature.

It is a lot more effortless to blip the throttle to overtake than having to down-shift , but you can't have everything I guess. Someone can test this out to see how that works on cruising gears.

That depends on individual riding styles mate. In terms of RE 650 twins one can ride in both styles, there is no hard and fast rule to ride on high gears at low speeds, it is just an additional feature of FTC dynamics which RE has highlighted. At the same time if someone likes to ride on the right gear at right speeds are right RPM they can do so. My post clearly mentions about "in addition" and not absolute terms.

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

As for thumping at low speeds, remember the golden words, "Coasting Kills!"

Mate coasting and FTC are as different as night and day. In FTC one doesn't depress the clutch to disengage the gears and engine, one just turns the throttle that's it and the torque curve makes the engine do what it is supposed to do. FTC ain't coasting mate. At the risk of repeating myself and in no way comparing Bullet STD CI heavy crank to 650 twins, but FTC never damaged my CI engines and mind you coasting is different than FTC.

Stock battery is 12V 8AH.

Originally Posted by PrasannaDhana

And people who expect motorcycles to crawl at 20-30 kmph at 3rd, 4th and 5th gears citing convenience, please buy an activa. No offence to anyone but it gets too old.

Hahaha if that was a joke? About opting for Activa mate? No wonder! Activa is the highest selling two wheeler in India, why so? Convenience!

FTC is a wonderful phenomenon in motoring world and RE sure has recognised this. Otherwise what would be the reason they have mentioned it categorically on 650 twins specifications section. Who knows it might be their way to connect with their previous customers by offering what was common on their legacy motorcycles. Also one needs to read my post about this being an "additional" feature and not just "The" feature which one "Has" to use. One can ride their machine like one wants to but telling others about FTC getting too old is a bit harsh. No offence.

Oh and the Activa thing, mate you would be surprised to see many riders having an Activa or its other counterparts as an additional two wheeler in their garages apart from their other performance/sport/vintage/ADV/touring/ etc. Motorcycles. No Motorcycle in this world is a do it all motorcycle. But if a retro classic motorcycle gives the "convenience" of FTC in addition to its other features, then I think it is good in my books. One can use it for rush hour commuting in city traffic as well as ride on the highways.

Lastly about RE connecting with their previous owners. I will leave you and others with this picture(someone known to me) of a vintage RE Super Meteor 700 parallel twin.

[Cool_leo_guy]

Originally Posted by bigron

The right gear at the right rpm is indeed the mantra and there is no exception to this rule no matter what bike. It could be a 20 hp moped or a 200 hp pocket rocket.
Also, there is no such thing as keeping the rpm free for overtaking. You have to be in the right gear to over take. If you are not you will shift, twist and go. If you insist on holding your gear and wait for speed to build up so you can overtake, well that is not how you overtake.
Coming to fuel consumption, unless you are in the right gear at the right engine speed, you are just taxing the engine.
Coming to the 650 twin, the lower 4 gears are tall on this bike and the torque curve flattens in the mid range. This bike is tailor made for WOT in every gear and with just 47 hp its extremely effortless and fun.

I agree wholeheartedly with your comments. But I have yet to see a 20 hp moped in India, even apna pulsers(mostly,not all) which are positioned as performance bikes and the RE 350s struggle to churn out 20 hp.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by navin_v8

Mate coasting and FTC are as different as night and day. In FTC one doesn't depress the clutch to disengage the gears and engine, one just turns the throttle that's it and the torque curve makes the engine do what it is supposed to do. FTC ain't coasting mate. At the risk of repeating myself and in no way comparing Bullet STD CI heavy crank to 650 twins, but FTC never damaged my CI engines and mind you coasting is different than FTC.

I perfectly get you on both terms, just my definition of coasting is different than yours.

On the 350 Electra in final drive I can easily sail at city limit speeds without using the clutch or playing with the throttle courtesy of FTC, but I can also slip into a lower gear without even needing to disengage the clutch which though speaks how relaxed the motor runs is a negative pointer in my list because unless a drop in gear results in considerable deceleration I believe myself to be coasting, and by 'Kill' I wasn't referring to the motor but myself, because doing speeds where a dropping a gear doesn't drop speed is something I consider dangerous.

Reason is because like the motor the suspensions are also relatively relaxed in such a state of bliss which is not how you'd want them to be in the event that some idiot prompts you to panic brake, as with unloaded suspensions the front tire breaks traction at the slightest sneeze.

[neil.jericho]

Originally Posted by Hammer & Anvil

They forgot an O ring on the side panel where it locks into the frame and the owners manual is missing. Therefore tire pressure is at best unknown.

Congratulations on the Interceptor 650, that certainly was a wonderful first hand experience of what has turned out to be a really good motorcycle. The user manual is usually available for download on the Royal Enfield website, I have downloaded the same earlier for my Continental GT 535. The link is here - https://www.royalenfield.com/in/en/h...owners-manual/ .


However I tried downloading the manual of the Interceptor today to browse through it in my spare time but I wasnt able to successfully download the file. Im not sure why. Hopefully it works for you and you are able to extract the details of the tire pressure. As some frame of reference, the Pirelli Sport Demon tires on the GT 535 (same size as that on the 650 twins) require 20 and 30 PSI for front and rear if it is being ridden solo and 22 and 32 PSI if it is with a pillion rider.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by neil.jericho

As some frame of reference, the Pirelli Sport Demon tires on the GT 535 (same size as that on the 650 twins) require 20 and 30 PSI for front and rear if it is being ridden solo and 22 and 32 PSI if it is with a pillion rider.

I was quite surprised and hence looked up the manual to confirm your specifications.



Reason for my surprise was because usually 20-30 is the setting that I use when I ride on tricky terrains where stock is 28-30. Also it was a first to see a change in front tire pressure with a pillion on-board because usually only the rear tire pressure is mentioned to be changed.

Guess I owe a Kudos to RE for being so specific.

[CrAzY dRiVeR]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Reason for my surprise was because usually 20-30 is the setting that I use when I ride on tricky terrains where stock is 28-30.

I would be surprised if the test ride bikes in showrooms are set as per this recommendation. Most people are just used to setting 30 - 32 psi as default.

May be a reason why some BHPians complained of hard ride quality during their test rides.

[navin_v8]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

I perfectly get you on both terms, just my definition of coasting is different than yours.

Mate per what I have read and understood about coasting is when the clutch is disengaged and the motor runs on neutral gear with no resistance from the drive train whatsoever. In FTC the engine, gears and clutch are very much engaged.

On the 350 Electra in final drive I can easily sail at city limit speeds without using the clutch or playing with the throttle courtesy of FTC,

That's really strange mate if you mean a UCE Electra 350 or even CI Electra 350. I have a light crank STD CI 350 on which Electra is based but it doesn't have a very good FTC only that one can cross speed breakers on 2nd gear instead of 1st. Unlike Old CI's which had a beautiful FTC. Did you know a massive backlash from RE community prompted RE to reintroduce heavy crank on their STD CI 350 from mid 2000's up until recently on their UCE STD 350 as well.

but I can also slip into a lower gear without even needing to disengage the clutch which though speaks how relaxed the motor runs is a negative pointer in my list because unless a drop in gear results in considerable deceleration

Do you mean clutchless shift by saying this? I wouldn't do it no matter how expert I am as I wouldn't like to play with the transmission.

I believe myself to be coasting, and by 'Kill' I wasn't referring to the motor but myself, because doing speeds where a dropping a gear doesn't drop speed is something I consider dangerous.

By this you mean engine breaking eh! But I was talking about FTC mate and not coasting. In FTC the gear, clutch and drivetrain are engaged.

Reason is because like the motor the suspensions are also relatively relaxed in such a state of bliss which is not how you'd want them to be in the event that some idiot prompts you to panic brake, as with unloaded suspensions the front tire breaks traction at the slightest sneeze.

You mean to say the suspension self adjusts as the speeds build up or come down vis a vis gearing and RPM? About braking, that's why I always use a combination of 60(front):40(rear)braking ratio. Always! Govt. Of India making combi braking compulsory in addition to ABS speaks volumes about such braking dynamics.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by CrAzY dRiVeR

May be a reason why some BHPians complained of hard ride quality during their test rides.

Might be true, plus I guess you have to factor in machine and human error as well.

Recently filled air in the CT100B at a pump(BP COO, Thonakkal) because it was free and I was lazy to use my hand pump, after filling the ride was quite bumpy, more noticeable with the tank bag off, since air was the only variable changed and the pump attendant was the operator I connected my 300/- gauge and guess what both front and rear was well over 30 PSI.

For precision machines like the GT etc, where tire pressure needs to be set precisely I believe it would be best for the owner to invest in a gauge as even a slightly off setting might have a major impact on the ride quality.

Originally Posted by navin_v8

Mate per what I have read and understood about coasting is when the clutch is disengaged and the motor runs on neutral gear with no resistance from the drive train whatsoever. In FTC the engine, gears and clutch are very much engaged.

Guess I have to find a new word for what I've been regarding to as coasting, as I'd misinterpreted the textbook definition which says;

'move easily without using power'

My bad.

That's really strange mate if you mean a UCE Electra 350 or even CI Electra 350.

The machine in question was a 2011 UCE Electra;



The motorcycle was my first try at anything with a flat torque curve as I was at the time riding a ZMA which had a aggressive torque curve, so in comparison the Electra was bliss, though only later on did I get to experience what a proper CI is capable of.

Do you mean clutchless shift by saying this? I wouldn't do it no matter how expert I am as I wouldn't like to play with the transmission.

This was done unintentionally as I'd preloaded the shifter like I do in my ZMA and the thing just shifted like that, was quite surprised as for a clutchless shift to happen on the ZMA I have to match revs but with the Electra the revs were so constant and at city speeds there was minimal load on the transmission that the gear slotted into place even before I could realize what had happened.

Plus this was not my own motorcycle hence I would not dare try anything new on it.

You mean to say the suspension self adjusts as the speeds build up or come down vis a vis gearing and RPM?

Yes it does, I believe Keith Code has mentioned the same in detail in his Twist of the Wrist books.

A quick Google search returned this article by another author;

"...Rolling off the throttle shifts weight toward the front...Rolling on the throttle shifts weight toward the rear, decreasing front tire traction."

As for the Interceptor I guess you could simply go at the brakes irrespective of thought courtesy of the dual channel ABS system.

[schitre05]

Originally Posted by Hammer & Anvil

The forward lean, and the flat bench seat. The handlebar needs a riser, or it needs a Harley SuperLow type, upswept, handlebar and the seat needs a step up for the pillion to make it comfortable for the pillion. So a slight dip for the rider in the seat, and good 25mm height raise for the pillion. This will prevent helmet-banging for my pillion and the rage that ensues later.
Riders footpegs- are these too out... or what? They are so annoyingly placed. How the hell did rider pants and jeans or trousers not snag in them at signals? Boot laces? There is something that is wrong with the placement of the riders footpeg..

Thank you H&A for the review and Congratulations on your purchase.
The above mentioned ergo issues were exactly the ones faced by me too during the test ride.
The handlebar needs to be changed. (Even after adding risers to the existing bar and pulling it towards you, wont give 100% comfort).
Agree on the seat part too. Regarding Rider footpegs, Can they be fitted on a modified longer plate than the existing one, of course one would have to do the same for the levers too.

[alpha1]

Originally Posted by Red Liner

1. Lower rpm, higher gear is worse for your engine and you are probably slipping the clutch.
2. Steady engine beat? Have you heard this twin?
3. If you are at a lower rpm and a higher gear, your take off will be much slower, you HAVE to downshift to over take. At the right gear, you just twist and go.

The right gear at the right rpm is the right mantra. Or that doesn't apply to bullets? This twin is definitely not a bullet.

Red Liner are you sure you have ridden a Bullet 350 (especially the cast iron engine)? Because the first comment (especially the bold part) itself gives me a reason to doubt.

What you said makes sense only for snazzy young bikes of India with peaky torque curves, whereas on Enfield you can usually ride at low RPM at any gear (without slipping any clutch) - which means that there is no point spending the precious brain power in being extremely accurate and analytical about right gear right RPM for right speed and right acceleration - which may be mandatory requirement while driving a peaky torque engine.

Anyhow there is no point arguing among each other, your words convey a preference for a kid of torque curve which my lazy self doesn't prefer for riding/driving. I like to shift minimal gears.

[damanbir]

Guys, realistically the only time we'd be using the high gear low RPM would be limited to potholes and speed breakers or sudden traffic snarls, where the speed is such that, before the speed breaker/traffic we'd be in the meat of the band at 3-3.5k in the third, its only after breaking that the RPM would drop to below 2k, which is neither too low for the bike nor in the meat, its in no mans land. This when you would have two options, either to drop to second and have the rpm at 3-3.5k just after the bump and pull till 5k, or be in third at 2k and avoid using the gearbox. Its a personal choice based on an individual riding style which is situation dependent. Either way, we all know the bike will pull cleanly from low at 3rd gear or pull from 3.5k all the way till the end in 2nd gear.