|
![]() |
Search this Thread | ![]() 682,349 views |
![]() | #601 |
BHPian ![]() Join Date: Dec 2019 Location: KL52
Posts: 595
Thanked: 4,688 Times
| Re: Review: My Yamaha R1 (WGP 50th Anniversary Edition) Now finally we get to the Ohlins, and I have to say this is pretty anti-climactic because the Ohlins just plops into the space in the swingarm and 2 bolts at either end and it is in. And just like that the Ohlins is in. I know I sound like a broken record but just look at that beauty! It is also a realization of a dream and a huge step towards the dream spec I have in mind for the R1. The one big step before this was the Akrapovic slip-on. Back to another spam of the Ohlins, I just cannot resist. The linkage rod finally goes in. Checking the clearance for the Hydraulic preload adjuster against the top mounting bolt of the shock. The clearance is pretty tight but there is no rubbing/fouling happening, but just to be safe we did apply a few rounds of insulation tape around the hose as a "just in case" precaution. Forgot to take a photo of that though, my bad. Everything is finally in and torqued to spec, Here are the torque specifications that were referred to for the installation. While Karthik was torquing everything up, I took the opportunity to clean up the pipes on the slip-on and let the blueing of the pipes show in all its glory. Took the chance to also clean up the back side of the rear panels where the exhaust tightly sight against, this gap is almost never accessible when cleaning/washing the bike. Like I said, broken record. ![]() With that one last parting shot of the Ohlins I end this post. Next, we move on to the front suspension refresh and associated works. Cheers Krishna |
![]() | ![]() |
The following 28 BHPians Thank krishnaprasadgg for this useful post: | Aakash, Cyborg, Deamon0508, HTC, Joseph Jos, K a s h, KarthikK, neil.jericho, neith, NitNac, no_fear, PurpleTitanium, Rahulkool, RahulRV, sasta_rider, SnS_12, SR1602, sri2012, SunnyBoi, surjaonwheelz, t3rm1n80r, that_sedate_guy, Tpsdhiraj, TRR, Turbojc, wolfy, Xaos636, yogisays0909 |
|
![]() | #602 |
BHPian ![]() Join Date: Dec 2019 Location: KL52
Posts: 595
Thanked: 4,688 Times
| Re: Review: My Yamaha R1 (WGP 50th Anniversary Edition) Now that the rear end of the bike was fully buttoned up next on the list is the refresh of the front fork fluid. The jack was removed from the bottom of the engine and this time we used an overhead hoist to hang the bike off the frame and lift the front end of the bike slightly. Hoist used to hang the front end of the bike off the ground in order to remove the forks for service ![]() We start by removing the front fender first and next off comes the front wheel. You can see here the front end of the bike floating and the hoist and strap holding the bike up, the rear, of course is supported by the rear paddock. Next, we loosen up the 2 pinch bolts of the lower triple clamp on each side. Next, we move on to the top of the bike and loosen up the pinch bold on the side of the top triple clamp, 1 bolt on each side. The same goes for the clip-on clamp too. One on each side. Forgive the focus being on the switchgear, while taking the photo it looked like the bolts were in focus. Mybad ![]() Clip on Pinch bolt also gets loosened ![]() Now the fork can slide off with little effort. We removed the right side fork first. The top cap is removed and the fork fluid gets drained. Look at how dirty the oil is, this is approx 2 years and almost 20k km of usage on the oil. I know, I have kind of fallen behind on fork oil replacement, best practice is to replace the fork fluid every year. Next, the left fork comes off and the same step is repeated Now it's time to choose the brand new fork fluid that's going to be used. I went with the Maxima Fork Fluid in 10W, last time I had used 7W fork oil, why have I gon for a stiffer oil? That's because of the Ohlins rear shock which is said to be much stiffer than the OE shock. So chose to go with slightly heavier fork oil for the front. Once the old oil has been fully drained from the forks, the internal forks are cleaned thoroughly. Forks kept upside down to let gravity do the work of draining the last of the dirty oil out ![]() Next a through cleaning of the internals is done ![]() ![]() ![]() After that the brand-new fork fluid is measured and poured into the forks and the air gap is measured. I could not take too many photos of this process. Here is a screenshot of the required front fork quantity and level. As for the fork settings, it's been on the OE default setting itself, but this time I'll be playing around with the settings in the next few months and zero in on a setting I like the most. That's about it for the front fork service. In the next post, we move on the cone set maintenance. Cheers Krishna |
![]() | ![]() |
The following 10 BHPians Thank krishnaprasadgg for this useful post: | Cyborg, KarthikK, PurpleTitanium, Rahulkool, sasta_rider, SnS_12, SunnyBoi, surjaonwheelz, TRR, wolfy |
![]() | #603 |
BHPian ![]() Join Date: Dec 2019 Location: KL52
Posts: 595
Thanked: 4,688 Times
| Re: Review: My Yamaha R1 (WGP 50th Anniversary Edition) Next, we move onto the conset top and bottom race cleanup and repacking it with fresh grease. This too like the front fork fluid was done almost 2 years and 20,000kms back. But in this case, the coneset has been in good shape and no weird noises were observed while riding over the last 2 years so we know it is doing its job just right and nothing is wrong, but while we are in there with the forks removed it's a no brainer to refresh the coneset grease and have a look at the All Balls Racing Tapered Coneset bearings. So we started by removing the fork stem nut, the pinch bolt was already loosened off the top triple clamp to remove the front fork so that was already done, so at this point, the top triple clamp just lifts off and exposes the lock nut for the race shaft. Once those nuts are loosened the bottom triple clamps just drops off. As you can see the bottom race, notice how it's tapered, well that's the All Balls racing tapered bottom race. The bottom race also just slides out of the lower triple clamp shaft. You can see the color of the grease is still bluish, that's the Maxima Waterproof grease applied 2 years ago, it's not deteriorated too much. The bottom race is then thoroughly cleaned up. Next, the hollow space into which the lower triple clamp shaft slides into and the top of the frame is also cleaned thoroughly. Next, the bottom triple clamp assembly is thoroughly cleaned and made to look brand new. The bottom race is slid back on and a thorough application of the Maxima waterproof grease is done. The same treatment is done for the top race and rubber seal too and everything goes back in the opposite order. Next, the forks go back in and all the pinch bolts are tightened back to factory specification and the front wheel goes back on. Again since there is nothing different in the reassembly process and by that point my phone battery was running low I plugged the phone in for charge so no photos were taken of the reassembly process. By now it's late evening so we call it a day and choose to plug everything back in and the rest of the odd jobs that's left for the next day. As you can see the bike is almost fully put together for the first start up post the installation. The slip ons go back on. Now you can see the blueing of the exhaust mixes well with the gold on the Ohlins. And just like that we startup the bike. But wait whats with all this smoke? Well nothing to worry it's just all the degreaser/brake cleaner/Rust off residue burning off. But gotta admit, makes for some kickass photos. ![]() And with that comes to an end of the series of maintenance work that has been covered over the last 4-5 posts. The next post will be about the few odd job/fixes done on the bike. Nothing technical about it so all of it will be covered under one single post. Cheers Krishna |
![]() | ![]() |
The following 15 BHPians Thank krishnaprasadgg for this useful post: | Cyborg, KarthikK, Rahulkool, sanjayrozario, sasta_rider, SnS_12, SunnyBoi, Superquadro, surjaonwheelz, t3rm1n80r, that_sedate_guy, TRR, wolfy, Xaos636, yogisays0909 |
![]() | #604 |
BHPian ![]() Join Date: Dec 2019 Location: KL52
Posts: 595
Thanked: 4,688 Times
| Re: Review: My Yamaha R1 (WGP 50th Anniversary Edition) There are some random fixes on the bike that I have been keeping aside for a while. So let me cover all of it in one single post. Fouling marks on the swingarm and rear passenger footpeg holder. The fouling marks on the right side of the swingarm and the rear passenger footpeg holder have been there since the day I took delivery of the bike many years ago. The fouling mark on the swingarm is from when the bike had been dropped on the right side and the rider's rear set was pushed-in towards the swingarm and the rear brake MC and the rearset scratched the swingarm removing the black finish on the swingarm. I also contributed to it when I too dropped the bike once on the same side. ![]() Karthik, took it upon himself this time to do a touch-up on the said areas on the swingarm. It's not a proper full-on fix, the touch-up area can be easily identified if looked at from an angle, but it's good enough for me for now. When I do get around to fixing all the cosmetic blemishes on the bike sometime in the future all this will be taken care of properly. Next is the fouling marks on the pillion footrest holder on both sides, this came from when the LV exhausts were used I think, the mounting at some point was not done right I am wager, that caused it to rub against the footrest holder and caused those marks, the marks are on similar location on both sides. These were also touched up and blended pretty well, this one is a bit less noticeable and when the exhaust is mounted it's pretty much out of sight too. Rider rearset right side bend Well, this one is a bit embarrassing to mention, regular readers would know that I used to complain about how the right side rearset always felt a bit bent down and in from its original location and the reason I chalked to it was also clear when the bike was dropped onto its right side the rearset got pushed in a bit, and to solve this issue I had replaced the right side rearset with a used set I had sourced with no cosmetic blemishes at all. Unfortunately even with the change the rearset never felt to be fitting true to its position, a small skewness was always felt, and even adding a few washers to the mounting point didn't help, So I chalked it to the small tabs that stuck out from the frame onto which the rearsets mount to being slightly bent as the reason and I had made peace with it as I don't want to try any sort of jugaad or improper "fixes" when it comes to the frame. Now during last week's maintenance work, I was standing near the right side of the bike and suddenly my eye caught onto the footpeg on the right side, and it was sitting a bit bent, at this point I pressed onto the footpeg with a pressure similar to when your foot is on the peg and found that it sinks in a bit further down and back. That is when the realization hit me, the skewness I have been feeling was a lateral play in the gap in which the footpeg and the return spring are sitting. ![]() All this while this is what was causing the problem, we quickly found 2 washers that would help give a tight fit while allowing the return spring to work as intended and tried the same test, and Voila! Problem solved, absolutely no play, tried sitting on the bike to see how it felt and finally, the problem was solved. It was just a play in the footpeg area that was causing this problem all this while. What a random way to notice and fix this. Bypass switch for the headlights This is also something that has been in the pipeline for a while. Not sure if you know this but one of the main reasons why the R1 likes to chew through batteries and starter motors is a) The heavy crankshaft which takes much much more effort to turn over to start the bike. b) The intense amount of heat generated c) The 2x 55W Projector headlight also draws a huge amount of power on startup. (In the R1 the headlight do not turn on even when the ignition is on until the first press of the starter button, post which the headlight stays on for the entire duration, even when the killswitch is applied and only turns off when the key is turned off, so if you have to do repeated cranks the headlights stays on and saps the battery pretty hard) Now for point A, I can't do anything about it. Point B I have taken a few steps to manage heat but can't really save the starter motor from that while the battery box is relatively well insulated from most sides. About point C, well, now that is something I can do, I have for the longest time wanted to fit a bypass switch for the headlight, but I have never been a fan of messing with the factory loom, but as luck would have it a few months ago when the weird headlight/indicator issue popped up because of the burnt connector across the headlight wire, the fix for the burn pin was to remove the 2 end of the headlight wire from the connector and bridge a direct connection between them. This solved the issue for a while, later we realized that the ground wire was also having a connection issue on the same connector, this is the ground wire for the headlight and indicators, and it's isolated to the headlight sub loom on the bike. So recently I acquired a waterproof switch with reasonable reviews on Amazon with a mounting orientation that was perfect for my use case and I ordered it. It is a 2-point switch but this was all that was available for the way I wanted to mount it. Here you can see we decided to mount it to the mounting point on the top triple clamp that was originally used to mount the brake reservoir for the stock MC. So we repurposed it to have the switch mounted on it very neatly, almost OEM I'd wager. The wire of the switch was passed through the routing route the clutch cable passes through, this will make sure the wire won't get snagged with the side-to-side movement of the handlebar. Next, the wire was routed along the loom, and connections with the wire on the bypass wire fix was done. We used a bullet-type connector to make a secure connection so that the mod is easily reversible at any point in time within 2 minutes. Post this we did a test of the switches working and everything was cleaned up and tidied using tessa tape and some insulation tape for good measure. Here is the video of how the end result is. Now when starting the bike the headlight will stay off and will save that much of load on the battery, hopefully, this helps the battery live a few months longer. Rotor thickness Well, this is not a fix but this time I got Karthik to check the thickness of the front rotors as the EBC double-sintered pads are known to eat into rotors. A brand new rotor has 5mm of thickness with the min thickness as stipulated by the factory being 4.5mm. As we checked for thickness on multiple points on the rotors the average thickness right now is 4.7mm. So that means we are nearing the limit of the need for brand-new rotors. Yet another expense, but it's just how the game needs to be played. So no worries. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Now that all that is covered, let me get to the details of the shakedown run post all the work was done. Well, my luck wasn't too bright in this case, I made 3 attempts to do shakedown runs, 2 within city limits and one on the highway and all 3 got rained out. While the within-city test was pretty much ok, and the difference was easily perceivable it wasn't that helpful to understand how the setup needed to be tweaked because the base setting was spot on for city usage speeds. It was during the first highway test that I realized something, when it was dry and roads were good the ride was incredibly planted/stable, even much more so than the OEM shock when it was in working order. I know it might not make much sense but It's hard to put that feeling across in words. but it was during the wet I realized something, in the shakedown run on the highway when suddenly it started raining, that's when I realized that the rear of the bike was very unstable, this is when traction is not that great given the weather conditions on smooth roads, on uneven roads while the damping was very good and the rear just didn't feel stable at all, which makes me to think that the preload on the shock was cranked way too high to the harder setting to be comfortable for our road conditions. But I couldn't conclude that properly, so today was the day when I could properly test out the shock over a 300 km ride over good and bad roads, straight roads to tight corners to long winding corners as well. And yes as it turns out my assessment was right the preload on the shock was way too hard than what was required and was unsettling the bike on the slightest of undulations on the road surface and in dry conditions when you are on the throttle everything is perfect but as soon as you close the throttle the rear does a little skippy dance which wasn't that great to experience. So about 50-60 km in I pulled over to the side of the road and rotated the preload adjuster knob by one full turn to a softer setting and continued the ride, and the change was almost immediate, almost 50 percent of the issue was solved, the bike no longer nervous on lifting off the throttle and it took much bigger undulations at highway speeds to make the rear do that skippy dance, but the intensity of it was much lesser. So over the next stop, I moved the preload to a softer setting by another half turn(let's say one full turn is 4 clicks, so a total of 6 clicks of preload was taken out from the spring). This made the bike fully transform as far as handling was concerned, now one thing that came up in my research while deciding to get a top-of-the-line shock was that while the OE shock was a fully adjustable shock and did a great job, the amount of click so f adjustment it had was not very intricate, but the aftermarket shock and their flagship models at that give a much more perceivable different in performance with each click of adjustment and it was very apparent in today's ride. Anyway, now that the rear preload issue is on the way to getting fixed, I realized something else, the rear is super stable now and the limiting factor or the bottleneck has become the front fork setting, mind you I am not saying it's not good enough, what Im saying is that the OEM setting on the front fork is way too soft to compliment the setting on the rear, and a floaty/soft front end feel is not something I want, a soft/ floaty rear is still easy to control, but a floaty front is a recipe for disaster. So today's ride made one thing very clear, I have a good 3-4 more rides of suspension setting tweakes on both the front and rear that need to be done before an ideal setup is achieved that compliments the handling of both the front and the rear end of the bike. That's about it for this post. I'll leave you with a few pics of the ride today. Customary ODO and Trip meter shots Cheers Krishna |
![]() | ![]() |
The following 24 BHPians Thank krishnaprasadgg for this useful post: | abhi_tjet, Cyborg, gururajrv, hikozaru, InControl, Joseph Jos, KarthikK, mugen_pinaki27, neith, NitNac, nitninja, Omkar, Rachit.K.Dogra, Rahulkool, sanjayrozario, sasta_rider, SnS_12, SRISRI_90, SS338, SunnyBoi, surjaonwheelz, TRR, wolfy, Xaos636 |
![]() | #605 |
Senior - BHPian ![]() Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Stickn' Around
Posts: 1,238
Thanked: 3,377 Times
| Re: Review: My Yamaha R1 (WGP 50th Anniversary Edition) Krish, talking about touchups, if I may recommend one aspect of the bike that will help it stand out even better and neater, would be to get the exhaust pipe pre, mid and post-catcon sprayed with high quality silencer spray coat, which are plenty available in India at a cheap cost. This will prolong the life of the exhaust setup and will help reduce the brown-rustic look that the exhaust is starting to show its age. Perhaps Karthik should help you with these touchups if and when an exhaust setup clean/maintenance is required. Cheers! VJ |
![]() | ![]() |
![]() | #606 | |
BHPian ![]() Join Date: Dec 2019 Location: KL52
Posts: 595
Thanked: 4,688 Times
| Re: Review: My Yamaha R1 (WGP 50th Anniversary Edition) Quote:
Unless there is some new product in the market that doesn't have that burning smell and isn't like a black finish. Cheers Krishna | |
![]() | ![]() |
The following BHPian Thanks krishnaprasadgg for this useful post: | Cyborg |
![]() | #607 | |
Senior - BHPian ![]() Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Stickn' Around
Posts: 1,238
Thanked: 3,377 Times
| Re: Review: My Yamaha R1 (WGP 50th Anniversary Edition) Quote:
Glosil gives a mild matte grey finish akin to OEMs while TVS is proper matte black.. Good luck. Cheers! VJ | |
![]() | ![]() |
The following 3 BHPians Thank VijayAnand1 for this useful post: | Cyborg, krishnaprasadgg, SnS_12 |
![]() | #608 | |
BHPian ![]() Join Date: Dec 2019 Location: KL52
Posts: 595
Thanked: 4,688 Times
| Re: Review: My Yamaha R1 (WGP 50th Anniversary Edition) Quote:
I was wondering, how ceramic coating(like they do for inlet and exhaust manifolds in cars) would be a good option. The finish on those are super strong and prevent discolouration too iirc. Might be too expensive though for the “pros” gained from it. Cheers Krishna | |
![]() | ![]() |
The following 5 BHPians Thank krishnaprasadgg for this useful post: | Cyborg, KarthikK, sasta_rider, SnS_12, VijayAnand1 |
![]() | #609 |
Senior - BHPian ![]() Join Date: Sep 2019 Location: Bengaluru
Posts: 1,159
Thanked: 3,164 Times
Infractions: 0/1 (5) | Re: Review: My Yamaha R1 (WGP 50th Anniversary Edition)
I got the A010s for my GT 650. But they were skinnier than the stock grips and the cheap “playboy” crap that the previous owner had slapped on it, and gave me carpal tunnel pain. Slapped some Route 95 (Grip Puppy knock-offs) Air grips over the Dominos and now it’s alright! |
![]() | ![]() |
The following 2 BHPians Thank TheHelix0202 for this useful post: | krishnaprasadgg, sasta_rider |
![]() | #610 |
BHPian ![]() Join Date: Dec 2019 Location: KL52
Posts: 595
Thanked: 4,688 Times
| Re: Review: My Yamaha R1 (WGP 50th Anniversary Edition) This is one of those posts I always hoped I would never have to make. I have not been riding for the last couple of weeks, personal situations have kept me back home in Kerala for the said duration, the R1 has been securely parked in the apartment basement parking along with the VRS. Finally, I got back to Bangalore yesterday and what do I see? The mirrors on my bike are in the open position, why this was confusing to me is that I always park the bike with the mirrors closed this is something I always make sure while parking. I dismissed it as maybe I forgot to close it this time, and I was not remembering it right, because we almost never have any issues of anyone messing with the vehicles in parking. But today when I got back to the parking to take the VRS out for a wash, I saw what had actually happened, and that my gut feeling was right, and it was the worst situation possible for me. Some had dropped my bike onto the VRS. And both vehicles have damages. The R1 has a deep gash on the front mask on the left side edge. The MRA visor has been and created a hot spot gash on it and the end of it has fallen out of the clip, and small scratches on the side fairing. And several scratch/paint transfer marks on the right side rear door and one on the rear quarter panel too. Luckily in this case the VRS is fully covered in PPF so no paint damage on the VRS per se, but the point of impact on the door has created a dent in it which I now need to sort out. Now I was out of state for close to a month so I have no clue when it happened, no CCTV cameras are there in the basement so no way of knowing, but I do know for a fact is that someone actually sat on the bike, removed the side stand and opened the mirrors (presumably to take photos) and while putting the bike back either couldn't handle the weight of the bike or the side stand wasn't put down properly and the bike slipped off the stand and fell on the car. How I know that the mirror was opened is easy, when I sat on the bike to fix the left side mirror I noticed the right side mirror was not fully opened, it was only opened 3/4 of the way. Which made me sure that my gut feeling was right, the mirror was indeed closed when I left the bike, but someone went to the extent of opening it up but not fully and finally ended up dropping the bike. Now I was and still am beyond pissed about this, but realistically not much I can do about it, and I don't think anyone is going to come up and accept their mistake if I post it on the apartment group, but the bigger question is what will be the use of it? The damage is done, I have to now go through the heartbreak of seeing the damage and all the effort of fixing it, I wouldn't even have been pissed if it happened from my hands or it was a genuine mistake from someone who I gave the permission to sit on the bike, but this was someone who took the liberty of messing with my bike when no one was around. Why do people do this? I never have been able to understand this, and I never will. Why can't people just appreciate things without touching whats not their property and if you make a mistake owning up to it, leaving a note or something at the very least is the decent thing to do. But no, I guess all this is too much to ask of. I am angry, yes, but I am even more just severely disappointed. Anyway, I don't want to end this post on a negative note, so let me post a few photos form the last ride I managed to squeeze in before I left for Kerala. 2 other friends joined, one being fellow bhpian @wolfy on his Speedy and another friend on his Nuda R, this particular nuda has already made an appearance on this thread a couple of months back. It was a great ride, suspension tuning has been dialed in a bit more during this ride, but still needs working on. And we have hit 49k on the ODO on this ride ![]() Here are the customary ODO pics. Ending this post with a heavily edited but I'd like to say beautiful pic of the bikes all in one frame. Cheers Krishna Last edited by Chetan_Rao : 16th January 2025 at 21:41. Reason: Masked license plates. |
![]() | ![]() |
The following 62 BHPians Thank krishnaprasadgg for this useful post: | 1.6S10, anivy, arjunsatheesh, arun1100, arun_josie, AtheK, Avikbrio, CEF_Beasts, CentreOfGravity, chautob0t, Clayton Crasto, CrAzY dRiVeR, Cyborg, Dosa, FueledbyFury, GaryTSI, Gildarts, GTO, InControl, JithinR, Joseph Jos, K a s h, KarthikK, Kashi053, Kashief, manithgiliyar, MotoMoto418, Mu009, mugen_pinaki27, NarediAni7518, neil.jericho, neith, PrideRed, Rachit.K.Dogra, Rahulkool, RavSam, Revotorqued, Roy.S, RunSam, saikishor, Samba, sanjayrozario, sasta_rider, SchnelleKurven, sf-24, smrutisourav, SnS_12, sole_rider, sri2012, SRISRI_90, SunnyBoi, supernova105, supertinu, t3rm1n80r, TheVaas, TRR, v12, vaasu, VijayAnand1, VinNam, Voodooblaster, Xaos636 |
![]() | #611 | |
BHPian ![]() Join Date: Sep 2021 Location: KL 51
Posts: 104
Thanked: 460 Times
| Re: Review: My Yamaha R1 (WGP 50th Anniversary Edition) Quote:
![]() ![]() | |
![]() | ![]() |
The following 15 BHPians Thank Pennant1970 for this useful post: | 1.6S10, Bombastic, Cyborg, Dosa, InControl, JunkyardHunter, krishnaprasadgg, MotoMoto418, Mu009, noob_petrolmonk, Revotorqued, RROD, sanjayrozario, thtechnician, Voodooblaster |
|
![]() | #612 | |
BHPian Join Date: Dec 2024 Location: Bangalore
Posts: 25
Thanked: 104 Times
| Re: Review: My Yamaha R1 (WGP 50th Anniversary Edition) Quote:
In situations like these, when we're out for long periods, the simplest solution is to use a motorcycle cover. Most of the owners of big bikes in my apartment complex do this, and I've started doing it too. This way, there's at least some peace of mind knowing that such incidents are less likely to occur. | |
![]() | ![]() |
The following 3 BHPians Thank sf-24 for this useful post: | InControl, krishnaprasadgg, sasta_rider |
![]() | #613 | ||
BHPian ![]() Join Date: Dec 2019 Location: KL52
Posts: 595
Thanked: 4,688 Times
| Re: Review: My Yamaha R1 (WGP 50th Anniversary Edition) Quote:
Quote:
----------------------------------- As for the update on the bike. I took the bike to Karthik to assess the damage and to make sure the inner fairing stay is not damaged as the mirrors are directly mounted onto the fairing stay bracket. He quickly popped the visor into its location and no damage was found on the fairing stay, that was lucky. Next, I had an immediate issue to address, during the last ride, before dawn broke, the headlight suddenly stopped working, I was pretty sure it was the switch that failed, and then the bike was parked for 3 weeks or so, the other day when I turned on the bike the headlight turned on and the next time they didn't. Anyway took it to Karthik to change out the switch with a proper one, and chose the MadDog Switch Pro at Rs 1.5K. I was surprised with the build quality of it, the wiring and the wiring cover also seemed pretty good, and they had multiple mounting hardware given to use on different bike setups, all in all happy with the quality of it, and got it quickly wired in and it's working fine since then. They claim it to be fully waterproof and yesterday's ride was the perfect litmus test, 300kms of pure pouring rain and it survived without any issues. So I guess it is waterproof as claimed. Next, I also picked up the Oinker chain lubing attachment, I have seen their product on Instagram, and seemed to be a pretty well-designed product, this tool allows one to direct the chain lube/wax directly to the O-rings this way reduces wastage of the lube/wax and makes a lesser mess on the chain/swingarm/rear wheel too. It's a bit costly at Rs.1,900/- The product comes with 3-4 tops that go on different brand chain lube nozzles and spray tubes too, luckily the product is designed to fit as in for Maxima cans so I didn't have to try any of those. As for the product, it works as advertised. Also to note, you need to pick one up based on the pitch of your chain, mine is 530 pitch so I picked up the Oinker 530. Highlander sells them officially at their stores, picked mine up from there. Now for yesterday's ride, it was a wet one, got drenched to the bone, but we pushed through regardless and completed our usual 300 km circuit in the heavy rain, was it a smart move? Maybe not, but that's how much we enjoy riding. Adds some extra spicy flavor when it's on these fire-breathing liter-class monsters. Barely clicked any photos this time, a V4R too made an appearance for this ride. This is the condition of the bike after yesterday's ride, took it to Glossfactor to get a detailed wash and they did a fine job as usual. I forgot to take pics of the bike post the wash. Customary ODO shot to end the post. Cheers Krishna | ||
![]() | ![]() |
The following 33 BHPians Thank krishnaprasadgg for this useful post: | AtheK, Axe77, chautob0t, Cyborg, Dosa, FueledbyFury, gururajrv, InControl, K a s h, KarthikK, Kashi053, mugen_pinaki27, NitNac, NomadSK, Pennant1970, Pferdestarke, Rachit.K.Dogra, Rahulkool, RoadRambo, RohanDheman, Rohit_Quad, Samfromindia, sanjayrozario, sasta_rider, sf-24, SnS_12, SunnyBoi, surjaonwheelz, TRR, vaasu, VijayAnand1, vishal.jayakuma, Xaos636 |
![]() | #614 | |
BHPian Join Date: Jan 2023 Location: KA01/KL13
Posts: 125
Thanked: 241 Times
| Re: Review: My Yamaha R1 (WGP 50th Anniversary Edition) Quote:
I still cannot find the owner details of the car that made the sink. But peace. | |
![]() | ![]() |
The following 4 BHPians Thank drive.helios for this useful post: | Axe77, krishnaprasadgg, Pennant1970, sasta_rider |
![]() | #615 |
BHPian ![]() Join Date: Dec 2019 Location: KL52
Posts: 595
Thanked: 4,688 Times
| Re: Review: My Yamaha R1 (WGP 50th Anniversary Edition) And just like that, a major milestone was achieved: The R1 rolled over to 50,000 KM on the ODO. I cannot describe in words how joyful it was; the R1 means so much to me. Now, 50,000 KM on a big bike is a bit rare to come by in our country and that too a wild and angry literclass crotch rocket as the R1, which is very much known to be a bit of a wild stallion makes this even more special. It's not been a smooth road all along the way, but it's been mostly amazing, to be honest, every single time I ride the bike it has been nothing short of equal part epicness and scariness, it's amazing that the bike still scares me a little bit and at the risk of sounding like a broken record, I see this as a good thing and I will probably stop riding the R1 the day it stops scaring me because I strongly feel that's when I'll probably end up doing stupid things on the bike that will end up with her throwing me off without any mercy. Of course, the 50k ride had to be with Xaos636. He has been with me since I bought the R1, and we have been riding together for the better part of 15 years now. Let me leave you with the photos from this ride, while I was thinking of compiling a bit of highlight of the moments with the R1 there are just too many photos to go through and that will take forever so decided against it, also I am unbelievably lazy too. ![]() ![]() ![]() If you are wondering why Xaos636's 10R looks different that's because he did some subtle but big-effect changes to the looks of the bike, looks killer IMO! ![]() ![]() ![]() Before signing off I have to mention this, out of these 50,000 wonderful km the bike has run a little over 30,000 is what I have put on, the first 20,000 was done by the first owner who was also someone who loved the bike just as much as me and rode it with love and took care of the bike just as I am doing now. So a big bit of credit goes to him as well! I'll be forever grateful to him for agreeing to allow me to buy this bike from him. I'd like to think I did justice by him. And I would be doing a huge disservice if I did not mention Karthik from Highlander(who is more of a dear friend in addition to being just a legend of a mechanic) and Sanju from Fmotors. They are the only 2 people who have worked on the bike apart from the DIY stuff @Xaos636, and @wolfy & I have done and will most likely remain as such. Also when I was reflecting on this milestone I realized that more than owning this bike and riding it and enjoying it I am more happy that I have been able to share this machine with some really good riding buddies(a few bhpians are there in this list too) and being able to share that love and the marvel of engineering that she is. That just makes this even more sweeter. Customary ODO shot post each ride ![]() Trip meter for the day ![]() Just in time for the service at 5k interval ![]() Ok, I'll wrap up the cheesy bit now. ![]() ![]() I'll explain it somewhere in the next post(s) Leaving you with this photo I clicked the other day while getting the bike washed, something about this photo just warms my heart. Cheers Krishna |
![]() | ![]() |
The following 35 BHPians Thank krishnaprasadgg for this useful post: | abhi_tjet, ach1lles, akshayhonda, Cyborg, doga, Drexler, FueledbyFury, ishan0278, Joseph Jos, KarthikK, Kashief, mh09ad5578, minzanurag, neith, NitNac, R15M_Rider, Rachit.K.Dogra, Red Liner, Redline6800, Rshrey22, saikishor, Samfromindia, Sangwan, sanjayrozario, sasta_rider, Skyline_GT, SS338, SunnyBoi, surjaonwheelz, Torino, TRR, V.Max, VijayAnand1, wolfy, Xaos636 |
![]() |