[basky]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

Great work Basky
In your interior picture, I see some patches on the matts! Seems like wear - could be as it is the driver side and that matt is the most abused.

Thanks. It is wear and the discoloration due to Mud being on it for too long. I avoid putting on Gel (which will give a uniform black colour) on the Driver's mat as it is slippery and could lead to problems when transferred by footwear on to slightly worn pedals. Playing safe
You will notice too that the insides of the rear tyres being off colour too - Gel is applied only at the last stage.

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by basky

You will notice too that the insides of the rear tyres being off colour too - Gel is applied only at the last stage.

Can you guide me a sure-shot way of removing swirl marks? I plan to do it myself. Also I don't have any electric buffer so please guide me on the process.

[basky]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

Can you guide me a sure-shot way of removing swirl marks? I plan to do it myself. Also I don't have any electric buffer so please guide me on the process.

Depends on
1. How bad the swirls are.
2. Any deep scratches in the paintwork which need to be attended to? This has to be done first - before any detailing.
3. Product range you intend to use (what do have in stock?)
4. How much sustainable elbow grease can you put in to finish the job - it takes quite time even with machines at your disposal.

As an indication, the SMARTWAX/Chemical Guys range I use, takes on an average of 25-30 man hours per car , going through the whole process and using all the equipment.
You can of course go easier route with just a simple polish/wax routine doing everything manually.

The important thing is to clean thoroughly, polish and seal off the exposed paint surface as a minimum objective.
If you can rope in like-minded souls to help you, it will be great. A Detailing Party

[Thad E Ginathom]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

See attached picture of Yellow Microfiber cloth.
Damage caused due to improper cloth would be swirl marks on the paint...

It might be caused by a bad quality cloth. It is just as likely to be caused by dust/dirt particles trapped in the cloth or sponge.

The rule is simple: the harder thing will always scratch the softer. Some of the mineral particles in air-carried dust may be capable of scratching steel, let alone paint.

The magic of microfibre is not so much in its softness, but in its micro-ness: those fibres reach down into the tiny scratches found in the surfaces of most things, making them look closer to new than is possible with other cloths.

But yes... a good microfibre cloth should be soft too. However, that is a factor of its material. If, for instance, it is made of polyester, it will be no softer than your old polyester shirt. But a rag from your old shirt won't reach down into those places.

[k_ajay]

Originally Posted by basky

As an indication, the SMARTWAX/Chemical Guys range I use, takes on an average of 25-30 man hours per car , going through the whole process and using all the equipment.
You can of course go easier route with just a simple polish/wax routine doing everything manually.

Hi Basky,

Nice work there on the black swift. How long have you been detailing cars now? What is interesting to note is that your customers can allow the time you need to do a proper detailing job; that's good understanding on the customer's part too.

If you don't mind me asking, where do you source your chemical guys range from? If it's not something to be discussed here, happy to take it on over a PM.


Cheers,
ajay K

[kris_t]

Personally, I think Pepsi and Coke are only fit for tyres. I have also read that coke will clean the windscreen well though I haven't tried it myself. For the bodywork, I have used regular car polish for years, both on my cars and my bikes. After a good washdown, park in the shade and apply in sections with a damp sponge or cloth. Buff with a yellow flannel cloth or an old vest (as the cloth is soft) in a circular motion. Its hard work, but the result will be there for you to see. Use tyre shiner for the plastics as well. In the engine compartment, first get rid of the dust and dried leaves that inevitably enter if you park under trees. Use an old tooth brush to get rid of dust and accumulated dirt in difficult to reach places. You can use the same tyre shiner to polish the plastic parts.

[basky]

Originally Posted by k_ajay

How long have you been detailing cars now?

Started washing the tyres of my father's 1954 model Black Fiat 1100 at the age of 5. He was a stickler for keeping his car gleaming. We had just one product then - 'Repo' and I still remember the sweet smell of the polish! Have been keeping up the tradition and products have changed over time. Was into 3M till switching over to SMARTWAX when that was introduced. Pete's brought SMARTWAX to India as a complete system ie all the products are available and genuine too. I pick it up directly from them. Call on their toll free number 1 800 425 8844 if you want the details. PS. SMARTWAX is a brand owned by Chemical Guys.

Originally Posted by k_ajay

What is interesting to note is that your customers can allow the time you need to do a proper detailing job; that's good understanding on the customer's part too.

Can't really call them customers. They are mostly friends (and friends of friends - exponential). I am a hobbyist enjoying myself monkeying around with cars according to my time schedule. If anyone is in a hurry, I avoid taking it on as I have normal blood pressure and have no intention of raising it or losing the fun factor.

I have two bike/car crazy young staff for manpower. Our objective is to learn or try something new every day. At a hobby level, we are experimenting quite a bit on many things simultaneously. Arc welding, Gas brazing, led lights, Head lamp restoration, little electrical cicuits, sandblasting, painting, airbrush touch ups -in short, essentially Having Fun

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by basky

At a hobby level, we are experimenting quite a bit on many things simultaneously. Arc welding, Gas brazing, led lights, Head lamp restoration, little electrical cicuits, sandblasting, painting, airbrush touch ups -in short, essentially Having Fun

How do you define a 'Head Lamp restoration'?
How about converting plastic tail lamps to glass? I know earlier cars that came with glass lamps as plastics only evolved in the late '70s.

Also as you are doing Gas brazing, Can you help me on how to make a neat Inlet hole into the fuel tank of my 118NE. I need to make a return line for the vapour separator and cannot find a clean way of making a drill & fixing a inlet that does not leak.

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by basky

Uploading photos with MTS MBlaze is like a roulette game despite reducing the file size drastically. More often than not I have to try half a dozen times to get each photo uploaded. Mostly it gets stuck and timed out. I am resorting to piecemeal uploads.

Attachment 852192
With the final coat of wax prior to it being wiped off. I usually leave it overnight.

Attachment 852193
The result as seen from the rear.

Basky, you mentioned you leave the wax over night before buffing it . Wont it be a overkill knowing that waxes can become really hard to remove even if left for an hour. Or do you use a different method of buffing them?

[basky]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

How do you define a 'Head Lamp restoration'?

Mostly buffing out front surfaces. Occasional taking apart of the headlamp lens to clean the insides. No re-silvering - not cost effective or reliable.

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

How about converting plastic tail lamps to glass?

Almost all lights are now made in Polycarbonates or other plastics. Making a single piece glass tail lamp is certainly going to be difficult and costly. On the other hand there are articles and videos on the net on making lens covers in acrylic.

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

how to make a neat Inlet hole into the fuel tank of my 118NE. I need to make a return line for the vapour separator and cannot find a clean way of making a drill & fixing a inlet that does not leak.

Fuel tank repairs can be made with copper pipes brazed on - with more than adequate caution to ensure that there is NO EXPLOSIVE FUEL VAPOUR left in the tank. Give it to someone who has the safety sense and experience in working with fuel tanks. Later, check the tank for leaks by bottling up all holes and filling with compressed air. Use soap solution to check all joints.

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

Basky, you mentioned you leave the wax over night before buffing it . Wont it be a overkill knowing that waxes can become really hard to remove even if left for an hour. Or do you use a different method of buffing them?

Final wax is buffed off by hand with a microfiber cloth. The coating is thin and not a problem to handle manually. We normally use a machine to apply the wax emulsion. Hard Concours Paste wax is applied in very thin coats with the bare fingers - no other applicator is used. Also wiped off and buffed the following day.

[k_ajay]

Originally Posted by basky

Started washing the tyres of my father's 1954 model Black Fiat 1100 at the age of 5. He was a stickler for keeping his car gleaming. We had just one product then - 'Repo' and I still remember the sweet smell of the polish! Have been keeping up the tradition and products have changed over time. Was into 3M till switching over to SMARTWAX when that was introduced. Pete's brought SMARTWAX to India as a complete system ie all the products are available and genuine too. I pick it up directly from them. Call on their toll free number 1 800 425 8844 if you want the details. PS. SMARTWAX is a brand owned by Chemical Guys.

That's cool, Basky. A fairly long time then, that you've been with the detailing idea .. I haven't tried Smart Wax; will be interesting to give it a try. Thanks for the note, I've contacted Pete's to get the details.

Originally Posted by basky

Can't really call them customers. They are mostly friends (and friends of friends - exponential). I am a hobbyist enjoying myself monkeying around with cars according to my time schedule. If anyone is in a hurry, I avoid taking it on as I have normal blood pressure and have no intention of raising it or losing the fun factor.

I have two bike/car crazy young staff for manpower. Our objective is to learn or try something new every day. At a hobby level, we are experimenting quite a bit on many things simultaneously. Arc welding, Gas brazing, led lights, Head lamp restoration, little electrical cicuits, sandblasting, painting, airbrush touch ups -in short, essentially Having Fun

Yep! Detailing is one very interesting whilst at the same time, a very costly hobby!! lol.. Oh! So you're toying with a lot of other activities too other than car detailing; that's interesting too. Good stuff!


Cheers,
aK

[fine69]

Quick Question: How do I apply Sonax Car Polish?

I've been using Amway's Silicone Glaze and as per instructions on it I'd have to apply the polish (thin layer) on a panel, wait for it to dry and then buff it off.

Since Sonax's car polish is a little abrasive and it says it removes minor swirls also I believe I have to keep on rubbing it in circular motion and buff it off that way only, do not need to wait after applying it, is it?

[SAS]

Originally Posted by fine69

Quick Question: How do I apply Sonax Car Polish?

I've been using Amway's Silicone Glaze and as per instructions on it I'd have to apply the polish (thin layer) on a panel, wait for it to dry and then buff it off.

Since Sonax's car polish is a little abrasive and it says it removes minor swirls also I believe I have to keep on rubbing it in circular motion and buff it off that way only, do not need to wait after applying it, is it?

You apply it with a foam applicator. Use a small amount of polish (about the size of a coin) for half a bonnet and you rub it in circular motion and final strokes need to be straight (vertical). Wait for 15 minutes to dry and then buff off with a microfibre towel or a soft clean cotton cloth.

[fine69]

Originally Posted by SAS

You apply it with a foam applicator. Use a small amount of polish (about the size of a coin) for half a bonnet and you rub it in circular motion and final strokes need to be straight (vertical). Wait for 15 minutes to dry and then buff off with a microfibre towel or a soft clean cotton cloth.

I don't have a foam applicator, would Turtle Wax's applicator do? I think that's made out of foam too. When you say I apply it and buff off once its dry, do I just put it or do I rub it against the paint also for sometime?

[S_U_N]

Originally Posted by fine69

Since Sonax's car polish is a little abrasive and it says it removes minor swirls

Since you are doing this by hand, I would be interested in knowing the results. I have tried Optimum polish by hand and it did not help at all. I have tried with applicator pad, microfiber, cotton cloth and with sponge. I have tried on paint and glass as well. No real benefits so far.