[Pedaltothefloor]

Originally Posted by blackasta

Also - couldn't do much about the pinholes & orange peel. As the quality of painting is not good enough, I doubt how it would stand up to wetsanding (which anyway does not guarantee doing away with pinholes anyway). I shall learn to make peace with them.

I have been dreading the thought of getting my rear bumper and boot painted due to some scratches and dents that need to be sorted at a body shop. I always wonder about the quality of paintwork at the so called service centers. Is it safe to presume that once the factory paint is damaged, it can never be restored to its original glory? Getting the correct microns of paint and clear coat back seems like a herculean task for the savages who typically handle painting at these places. I have seen some terrible sights at a few authorized body shops where they were "Polishing" painted panels with aggressive compound and wool pads without even cleaning the panel. There was dust all over it from being parked there for days.

Or have I got it wrong and there are better places to get the painting done?

[blackasta]

Originally Posted by Pedaltothefloor

I have been dreading the thought of getting my rear bumper and boot painted due to some scratches and dents that need to be sorted at a body shop. I always wonder about the quality of paintwork at the so called service centers. Is it safe to presume that once the factory paint is damaged, it can never be restored to its original glory? Getting the correct microns of paint and clear coat back seems like a herculean task for the savages who typically handle painting at these places. I have seen some terrible sights at a few authorized body shops where they were "Polishing" painted panels with aggressive compound and wool pads without even cleaning the panel. There was dust all over it from being parked there for days.

Or have I got it wrong and there are better places to get the painting done?

Extremely difficult to replicate factory paint, but closer finishes can be achieved if the person painting is careful and respray is done/paint cured in sealed clean paint both. Though the painting is done in a booth in the Hyundai A.S.S, I have doubts over the cleanliness. Again, multiple coats are applied not leaving enough time in between & panels are cured out in the open. IMO that contributed to the solvent pops and dust trapped in paint.

Experienced them 'polishing' paint with a ragged dirty wool pad and god-knows-what-rocks-in-a-bottle compound on other cars - that's what contributed to the horrendous swirls and holograms that I posted a few posts back.

I do not know of any place that really knows how to care for the quality during painting. Neither it is possible for us to bypass them and set up a paint booth at home (as it is possible for detailing atleast)

[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by blackasta

Extremely difficult to replicate factory paint, but closer finishes can be achieved if the person painting is careful and respray is done/paint cured in sealed clean paint both. Though the painting is done in a booth in the Hyundai A.S.S, I have doubts over the cleanliness. Again, multiple coats are applied not leaving enough time in between & panels are cured out in the open. IMO that contributed to the solvent pops and dust trapped in paint.

Experienced them 'polishing' paint with a ragged dirty wool pad and god-knows-what-rocks-in-a-bottle compound on other cars - that's what contributed to the horrendous swirls and holograms that I posted a few posts back.

I do not know of any place that really knows how to care for the quality during painting. Neither it is possible for us to bypass them and set up a paint booth at home (as it is possible for detailing atleast)

I doubt that is solvent popping - It should be dirt inclusion. The reason coulde be as you said, shorter flash-off times between coats. Another reason also could be unsuitable Hardener/reducer or wrong paint spray viscosity.
Usually all the A.S.S (except the ones who cater to high-end cars) offer sloppy paint finishes. They have all the required equipments but lack in proper training & know-how. I have never seen a properly maintained booth in an A.S.S! Compare this with the road-side self learned guys, they are more 'artistically' professional but lack in infrastructure.
Still there are some private bodyshops who will offer you a fantastic finish but then again at a price.

[blackasta]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

I doubt that is solvent popping - It should be dirt inclusion. The reason coulde be as you said, shorter flash-off times between coats. Another reason also could be unsuitable Hardener/reducer or wrong paint spray viscosity.
Usually all the A.S.S (except the ones who cater to high-end cars) offer sloppy paint finishes. They have all the required equipments but lack in proper training & know-how. I have never seen a properly maintained booth in an A.S.S! Compare this with the road-side self learned guys, they are more 'artistically' professional but lack in infrastructure.
Still there are some private bodyshops who will offer you a fantastic finish but then again at a price.

Ya but dirt inclusions should be micro 'hills' right? The ones I have on the paint are micro 'troughs'.
Again there may be multiple reasons for it!

[SunnyBoi]

Looks great! You should have tried the denim pads, removing orange peel makes a lot of difference, an example:

[blackasta]

Originally Posted by SunnyBoi

Looks great! You should have tried the denim pads, removing orange peel makes a lot of difference, an example:

Attachment 1179738

Frankly speaking, I was afraid that I might cause irreversible damage by using the denim pad with UC (the most aggressive compound I have) on speed setting 6 - as the paint quality is not up to the mark in more ways than one.

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by blackasta

Frankly speaking, I was afraid that I might cause irreversible damage by using the denim pad with UC (the most aggressive compound I have) on speed setting 6 - as the paint quality is not up to the mark in more ways than one.

I still say you can do it. Paint is still soft since you got it recently painted and perhaps DA + Denim pad will work for you.

You're being very cautious and it is good - however my paint was far worse, and it turned out just fine!

BUT - the results will be spectacular. Below is another example from my roof :

Before :



After :

[mysticmonkey]

A quick query - Does it make sense to get the 3M sealant treatment done to a brand new car or wait a while (2-3 weeks) before getting it done?

[Pedaltothefloor]

Originally Posted by mysticmonkey

A quick query - Does it make sense to get the 3M sealant treatment done to a brand new car or wait a while (2-3 weeks) before getting it done?

Neither. For the same amount of money you can get better "Treatment" done to your car by a reputed local detailer. Please check the directory and decide. You can also do a lot DIY, but I am not sure if you have been initiated into DIY detailing yet.

[blackasta]

Originally Posted by mysticmonkey

A quick query - Does it make sense to get the 3M sealant treatment done to a brand new car or wait a while (2-3 weeks) before getting it done?

Originally Posted by Pedaltothefloor

Neither. For the same amount of money you can get better "Treatment" done to your car by a reputed local detailer. Please check the directory and decide. You can also do a lot DIY, but I am not sure if you have been initiated into DIY detailing yet.

+1 to what pedaltothefloor says.

3M's 'sealant treatment' AFAIK is just a wash and application of 3M Performance finish (http://www.autogeek.net/3m-performance-finish.html). Could you maybe state the amount quoted to you by 3M for this? I concur with pedaltothefloor that you can get better bang for your buck at an independent knowledgeable detailer.

Regarding the timing - yes, new cars ought to be washed , clayed (for deposits during transport and storage), polished with a non abrasive paint cleaner and sealed, preferably with a coating.

[mysticmonkey]

Originally Posted by blackasta

+1 to what pedaltothefloor says.

3M's 'sealant treatment' AFAIK is just a wash and application of 3M Performance finish (http://www.autogeek.net/3m-performance-finish.html). Could you maybe state the amount quoted to you by 3M for this? I concur with pedaltothefloor that you can get better bang for your buck at an independent knowledgeable detailer.

Regarding the timing - yes, new cars ought to be washed , clayed (for deposits during transport and storage), polished with a non abrasive paint cleaner and sealed, preferably with a coating.

Originally Posted by Pedaltothefloor

Neither. For the same amount of money you can get better "Treatment" done to your car by a reputed local detailer. Please check the directory and decide. You can also do a lot DIY, but I am not sure if you have been initiated into DIY detailing yet.

Thank you guys. I had already given it to 3M. The paint sealant process which I understood to be their top plan for new cars was about Rs. 5600. I do not get much time and the 3M workshop is across the road from office but it looks like I need to roll up ze sleeves and get cracking on a DIY.

[lastmanstanding]

I am planning to use Meguiars ultimate compound on my car for the first time, following it with a round of liquid wax, want to know, should I apply it by hand or it would be better to buy a Wax/Sealant Application Machine.

[blackasta]

Originally Posted by lastmanstanding

I am planning to use Meguiars ultimate compound on my car for the first time, following it with a round of liquid wax, want to know, should I apply it by hand or it would be better to buy a Wax/Sealant Application Machine.

UC application by hand for an entire car can be backbreaking work, and frankly speaking the returns might not be as expected. Compounding takes some serious elbow grease. Machine compounding is suggested.

UC might leave a slight haze or micro marring in the paint, which a polish with light cut should be able to clear out. Again - polishing an entire car by hand is serious work.

Only then you should apply the wax. Hand application and removal using quality MF is lot easier than the earlier 2 steps.

[lastmanstanding]

Originally Posted by blackasta

UC application by hand for an entire car can be backbreaking work, and frankly speaking the returns might not be as expected. Compounding takes some serious elbow grease. Machine compounding is suggested.

UC might leave a slight haze or micro marring in the paint, which a polish with light cut should be able to clear out. Again - polishing an entire car by hand is serious work.

Only then you should apply the wax. Hand application and removal using quality MF is lot easier than the earlier 2 steps.

Outstanding!! thanks for the reply black. I am planning to undergo and use following products, kindly spare few thoughts

1. Washing and shampooing it. (product: Amway Car Shampoo)
Dry the car with micro fibre.
2. Claying, it with a clay bar to remove to contaminants attached to it. (product: Meguiars Clay bar)
3. Swirls and scratch removal using a rubbing compound. (Product: Meguiars ultimate compound)
4. Sealing the paint surface with a sealant. (Product: BlackFire WetDiamond)
5. Final step, waxing using a paste wax. (Product: Collinite 845)

Appreciate.

[blackasta]

Originally Posted by lastmanstanding

Outstanding!! thanks for the reply black. I am planning to undergo and use following products, kindly spare few thoughts

1. Washing and shampooing it. (product: Amway Car Shampoo)
Dry the car with micro fibre.
2. Claying, it with a clay bar to remove to contaminants attached to it. (product: Meguiars Clay bar)
3. Swirls and scratch removal using a rubbing compound. (Product: Meguiars ultimate compound)
4. Sealing the paint surface with a sealant. (Product: BlackFire WetDiamond)
5. Final step, waxing using a paste wax. (Product: Collinite 845)

Appreciate.

1. Try using a waffle weave towel for drying. Works faster then regular MF.

2. Please use caution while using clay. Knead it often to keep the clearest face out. Use ample quantity of clay lube. Take care not to drop the clay.

3. If the swirls and scratches are mild, try starting from the mildest method. Try any swirl remover for the swirls and scratchx for the scratches. Make sure you use the correct hand application pad. CCS euro foam pads /wolfgang tri foam pad are good as I have heard.

4. Use a low cut polish before sealing.

5. C845 is good for topping up. Use sparingly.