[AJ56]

Originally Posted by viXit

Didn't wash the car or anything. Just washed that one panel with a wash mitt and got to compounding it. Used a Rupes Foam pad. And WaveX cutting compound.

Attachment 2239346\

Attachment 2239347

for better comparison.

Switched to a large foam pad that was softer than the older rupes pad and started polishing with Menzerna 3000.

Once I went over the entire panel with that. The results were simply mind blowing. I never in a thousand years expected the Amaze to have such good looking paint.]

Good effort, would add that next time try claying the paint after washing before compounding and you’ll get even better results. Also, try Menzerna 3500/3800 for even better finishing and less holograms since the paint is very, very soft (I too own a 2013 black Amaze).

Most importantly, in order to keep the paint looking like that you want to protect it periodically with a good paint sealant like Menzerna powerlock or Turtle seal n shine. Here’s mine after a wash:

[viXit]

Originally Posted by AJ56

Good effort,

Thank you.

would add that next time try claying the paint after washing before compounding and you’ll get even better results.

Will do that the next time. Any recommendations from your experience?

Also, try Menzerna 3500/3800 for even better finishing and less holograms since the paint is very, very soft (I too own a 2013 black Amaze).

I didn't find many holograms, but each panel has been painted on the roadside at least twice, so I didn't give much thought to the imperfections

Most importantly, in order to keep the paint looking like that you want to protect it periodically with a good paint sealant like Menzerna powerlock or Turtle seal n shine. Here’s mine after a wash:

I use collinite 845 Wax. It has a good beading effect. What do you think of this wax?


I think it would look stunning on the black amaze. But the car is parked outside in a dusty environment and wiped with a rag even when it's dusty. It's only cared for mechanically, nothing more.

I barely see the car more than once a month.

Your car looks absolutely STUNNING. I'm in love with the headlights. Mine, as you can see from one of the pics I posted here are quite yellow and dull.

What process do you suggest to achieve the level of clarity your lights have?

Thanks in advance.


EDIT:
Once I have practiced enough on the Amaze and Safari (which have had many repainted panels), I will proceed to detail the Honda City. It's paintwork is mostly original and the car is not cleaned daily by the local cleaner unlike other cars. So It's worth the effort.

[ruzbehxyz]

Can we use use Tar remover over ceramic coating ? I am specifically referring to Wurth tar remover. Online forums have mixed reviews. Can anyone guide ?

[AJ56]

Originally Posted by ruzbehxyz

Can we use use Tar remover over ceramic coating ? I am specifically referring to Wurth tar remover. Online forums have mixed reviews. Can anyone guide ?

Yes you can, assuming the coating has fully cured, no harm in using tar/iron removers to decon your paintwork. Just don’t let it dwell on the surface for long (over a minute) and as tar deposits start to dissolve, wipe them off gently and then rinse with clean water. If you are still unsure, best to contact the coating mfg/detailer who applied it.

Originally Posted by viXit

Will do that the next time. Any recommendations from your experience?

I didn't find many holograms, but each panel has been painted on the roadside at least twice, so I didn't give much thought to the imperfections

I use collinite 845 Wax. It has a good beading effect. What do you think of this wax?

Your car looks absolutely STUNNING. I'm in love with the headlights. Mine, as you can see from one of the pics I posted here are quite yellow and dull.

What process do you suggest to achieve the level of clarity your lights have?

Regarding claying, it’s part of the physical decon that’s done prior to any machine polishing, you can do a chemical decon with tar and iron removers as well before claying if you want to be thorough. Simoniz makes excellent clay bars, otherwise if on a budget the cheap Amazon ones work as well. Just remember clay micro scratches the finish so follow up with at least a 1 step correction after.

You won’t see holograms unless you’re using a bright flashlight at 90 degrees to check the paint, which I would highly recommend if you want to step up your polishing game. Body shops will almost always leave heavy buffer swirls and sanding scratches that require heavy cut compounds to correct.

845 is a good wax, it has minimal fillers and lasts about a month. Only issue I have with it is, like all carnauba waxes, it doesn’t last more than a few weeks, needs constant reapplication. I’d suggest a good paint sealant or even a SiO2 spray sealant like Gyeon Cancoat/Wetcoat. These will last twice as long if not more.

Thank you, yellowing is caused by the factory clearcoat breaking down over time due to UV exposure and oxidation. Personally I’ve never had to polish/wetsand my lights as I protected them from day 1, first 2 years I used to apply Powerlock paint sealant every month then I ceramic coated them and reapplied as I saw water beading diminish every couple of months (coatings are less durable on lights than on paint).

If you want to restore, this is the method I follow and it gets great results.

[sanchari]

In my Honda Jazz, the petrol sticker pasted on the fuel lid has come out. And it has left some paper residue still sticking on the fuel lid. Whats a good way to remove it without scratching the paint underneath ? I want to remove it cleanly as it is an eyesore.

Also, if I put in a new Vinyl sticker, will it cause any paint issue if it is removed?

[archat68]

Originally Posted by sanchari

In my Honda Jazz, the petrol sticker pasted on the fuel lid has come out. And it has left some paper residue still sticking on the fuel

WD40, Iso propyl alcohol (even the hand sanitizer works), Petrol, diesel, kerosene, vegetable oil all works. Soak the paper residue and remove gently. Later wash with shampoo and finally apply some wax. Except the last one I, e vegetable oil don't keep the solvents for long time in contact with the paint.

[AJ56]

Originally Posted by archat68

WD40, Iso propyl alcohol (even the hand sanitizer works), Petrol, diesel, kerosene, vegetable oil all works. Soak the paper residue and remove gently. Later wash with shampoo and finally apply some wax. Except the last one I, e vegetable oil don't keep the solvents for long time in contact with the paint.

I don’t think you should let any of these come in contact with your paint, they are strong solvents not intended for use on clearcoat. Hand Sanitizer is 70-80% IPA (isopropyl alcohol) and will swell up the clear and can cause permanent chemical staining, even if wiped off in seconds. Max concentration of IPA safe on car paint is <25%, ideally 15-20%.

Use purpose made tar and glue removers that are designed for use on automotive paintwork, first peel of as much of the sticker as possible, then spray glue remover and let it dwell for 1-2 minutes, make sure you hold a towel under the fuel lid to soak up any drips and wear nitrile gloves to protect your hands. Wipe off and repeat as necessary.

If the above fails to remove the residue completely, you can try a fine cut polish like Menzerna 3000, just take a few drops and buff with a plush microfibre. Follow through with your wax/sealant of choice. Cheers.

[archat68]

Originally Posted by AJ56

I don’t think you should let any of these come in contact with your paint, they are strong solvents not intended for use on clearcoat.

Most "professional" tar and adhesive remover (e.g gtecniq g7) contains mostly Naphtha, so is WD40. Go check the MSDS and decide. I have personally used WD40, diesel and kerosene for removing tar and adhesive in my 4 cars. Ho harms, provided you don't leave it on paint for hours.

Naphtha (/ˈnæpθə/ or /ˈnæfθə/) is a flammable liquid hydrocarbon mixture.

Mixtures labelled naphtha have been produced from natural gas condensates, petroleum distillates, and the distillation of coal tar and peat.

In different industries and regions naphtha may also be crude oil or refined products such as kerosene. Mineral spirits, also historically known as "naphtha", is not the same chemical.

If you are still worried, use simple household vegetable oil. Soak the sticker with it and wipe off and apply shampoo. Tested with great result. No need to spend thousands on so called professional products for a piece of adhesive.

Finally, it's your car and your choice. Whatever I've posted has been tested by me on my own car without any harmful effect.

[AJ56]

Originally Posted by archat68

Most "professional" tar and adhesive remover (e.g gtecniq g7) contains mostly Naphtha, so is WD40. Go check the MSDS and decide. I have personally used WD40, diesel and kerosene for removing tar and adhesive in my 4 cars. Ho harms, provided you don't leave it on paint for hours.

If you are still worried, use simple household vegetable oil. Soak the sticker with it and wipe off and apply shampoo. Tested with great result. No need to spend thousands on so called professional products for a piece of adhesive.

Finally, it's your car and your choice. Whatever I've posted has been tested by me on my own car without any harmful effect.

Firstly it’s Gtechniq W7 not G7, second I’ve attached a screenshot of the MSDS for W7 tar and glue remover below, C9 can mean any grade of Naptha, see for yourself (‘hydrocarbons’ can also mean a lot of things). Using Naptha as a common ingredient does nothing to change the products overall safety on paint, as that is not the only ingredient. It’s like saying orange juice and coffee both contain H20 so they’re the same, they’re not.

Even if I assume WD40 won’t damage my paint, I’d still not use it as it leaves an oily residue behind which requires quick detailer and a lot of buffing to fully remove, unnecessary added work. Same goes for diesel/petrol they leave an oily residue that needs additional wiping.

I would add these aren’t so called professional products, they quite literally are professional detailing products used by some of the very best detailers in the world. And it’s doesn’t cost ‘thousands’ last I checked it was available for 900 odd for 500ml, if you get 250ml it’ll be even cheaper.

Saying it didn’t visually ‘damage’ your paint in the short term is not the intellectually honest way to determine if any solvent will cause issues many years down the line by compromising clearcoat integrity which may not be visible today or even 2 years from today. Paint systems are chemically very complex and unless you have proper data from years of research over hundreds of different cars and paint types I wouldn’t play chemist myself with products not intended for them. But yes, ultimately your car, your wish.

[archat68]

Originally Posted by AJ56

Firstly it’s Gtechniq W7 not G7, second I’ve attached a screenshot of the MSDS for W7 tar and glue remover below, C9 can mean any grade of Naptha, see for yourself (‘hydrocarbons’ can also mean a lot of things). Using Naptha as a common ingredient does nothing to change the products overall safety on paint, as that is not the only ingredient. It’s like saying orange juice and coffee both contain H20 so they’re the same, they’re not.
.

I won't argue.
Please look into the following link which clearly mentions it contains Naphtha. Naphtha is chemically almost similar to Kerosene.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...GYqup9zBK98cSr

I understand you have a business to run and so you have to defend the professional range of products. But I'm a post graduate in Chemistry and have 20 years of practical lab experience, so i understand what I write . And so do I know the difference between orange juice and water.

People have been using diesel or kerosene for removing tar from paint when it was a single stage paint without any clearcoat for 100's of years. Clearcoat is advanced epoxy which is designed to protect the base coat. BTW you're not going to keep immersed your paint in solvents for years. It's 5-10 minutes job.

And professional products are charging 100 times more for something that can be done way cheaper with same result. Choice lies with the user. There is no forcing. This is just knowledge sharing for like minded people who doesn't want to get fooled.

I rest my case.

[AJ56]

Originally Posted by archat68

I won't argue.

Please look into the following link which clearly mentions it contains Naphtha. Naphtha is chemically almost similar to Kerosene.

I understand you have a business to run and so you have to defend the professional range of products. But I'm a post graduate in Chemistry and have 20 years of practical lab experience, so i understand what I write .

I rest my case.

I never claimed it doesn’t contain Naptha, please read my post.

You’ve put it correctly now, you’re an experienced chemist with extensive lab knowledge and I’m a detailer with 10+ years of practical experience working on single stage and modern clearcoat paints. Neither of us are paint manufacturing/formulation specialists.

The reason I disagreed was simple, in the absence of perfect knowledge on any subject, we must err on the side of safety, in this case it meant going for products that are tested and deemed safe for use on paint by specialists who have 10x more knowledge than me. Unless one has concrete data that said epoxy resins (clearcoat) are not compromised by such solvents spread over many years of research/studies on hundreds of different cars with different paint types, I’ll stick to the correct products.

Considering a full panel repaint costs thousands (lakhs on certain exotic cars) and you lose the factory finish, I believe 900 is a small price to pay for complete peace of mind.

It’s not about defending any product being used by my business, as we don’t even use Gtechniq (we use Gyeon and Carpro among others). It’s about using the correct product for the job in the absence of perfect knowledge. And I’ve been using purpose made detailing products on my own cars long before I entered detailing commercially, so I only recommend products and procedures I use myself on my cars.

Let’s agree to disagree as I feel we’ve both made our cases relatively clearly for all to read. Cheers.

[eccentric]

People,
If any of you could lead me to good foam applicator pads and polish for manual application, it'd be grateful.

Vehicle : Honda Civic 07
Color: Night Hawk Black Pearl
Paint code: B92P

[Artyom]

Originally Posted by eccentric

People,
If any of you could lead me to good foam applicator pads and polish for manual application, it'd be grateful.

Vehicle : Honda Civic 07
Color: Night Hawk Black Pearl
Paint code: B92P

Different Options:-

https://www.greenzcarcare.com/collec...d-applicators/

I personally use this one :-

https://www.greenzcarcare.com/produc...am-applicator/

[psbali]

Hi all. I do a basic shampoo wash with Formula 1 shampoo and apply a coat of collinite 845.

My car wash guy used to just wipe my car with wet cloth so I asked him to stop working on my car. With dry weather for the next 6 months I am not in a rush to hire a new car wash guy so planning to wash the car and re apply collinite and use a jopasu duster to keep the car clean thereafter.

Please suggest a shampoo to use for better result. And what other product can be used on top of collinite 845 to have even better protection?

I am planning to get a pressure washer as well. I dealt with a company once that also sells pressure washer at a dealer price of 4700 + gst. How does it look?


Please note:- I have dealt with this company only once and I have no interest in reselling their products or similar products. I happen to notice this product in their catalogue and inquired about it just asking for a feedback.

[ashis89]

After 9 months of use, my bottle of Turtle hardshell wax, Turtle hybrid ceramic spray and the 3M shampoo have run dry. My experience with the products has been very good, especially the ease of use and the end results. For change sake, I was wondering if I should try Meguiar's products this time. If anyone has tried these, please share your experience.

MEGUIAR'S Nxt Generation Car Wash

MEGUIAR'S Hybrid Ceramic Spray Wax

MEGUIAR'S G200416 Hybrid Ceramic Liquid Wax


So far, I have avoided Collinite 845 as I understand it is cumbersome to use for a lazy guy. Should I continue to stick to the easy-use liquid waxes or switch to this one?
COLLINITE LIQUID INSULATOR WAX 845