[KkVaidya]

Originally Posted by India2022

Thanks a lot, you saved me.

Is there any solution that water drops don't collect on side mirror/window?

Use Rain-X; The best for clean glasses in Monsoon.

[India2022]

Originally Posted by KkVaidya

Use Rain-X; The best for clean glasses in Monsoon.

Thanks. Can you pls tell more abt its features/benefits and product link if possible. Assuming its DIY and first timer can also apply

[Thad E Ginathom]

Rain-x is definitely DIY, and a very long-established product. I don't think I ever bought it, but I remember it in UK from decades ago.

This is what I do. I use ProKlear in my screen wash. I keep a solution in a spray bottle and use that to clean the other windows. Nothing is perfect, especially for orvms, which tend to stay clear when driving but collect drops when parked in the rain.

I have a glass polish called CarPro Ceriglass. This is a serious polish, ie it can be used for machine polishing glass, actually removing some of the surface to eradicate tiny scratches and leave a glass-gloss surface. I've never done that: I've just used it occasionally when stuff on the windscreen resists normal cleaning. A light application by hand leaves the glass shining, but won't touch actual scuffs. NB: it comes with warnings about breathing the dust and getting it on your paintwork! AJ56, any comments from you on this product?

Here's my recent story. The car had been away for a few days to get a major part replacement for the AC. It must have stood somewhere under a drip: there were several hard-water deposits on the glass. Ceriglass took them off easily.

[AJ56]

Originally Posted by Mortis

Then I came across a trim coating product called Puris Jade Black Dress Pro which has a black stain mixed into the coating. Seems like a good option. Thoughts ?

I also heard that SiC has a longer lasting bond to the paint vs SiO2 but is not as slick. A sacrifice I'm willing to make.

What are your thoughts on Max Protects UNC R and R Lite, if you have any experience with them. They are also advertised as "permanent" coatings.

have stopped using Optimum products on principle.

You can use dyed plastic dressings, but not really needed unless you’ve got irreversible damage/fading on your trim. Long term coatings for plastic anyway don’t retain that wet look a freshly applied water based dressing gives, given how easy the latter is to apply, personally I much prefer it to the semi permanent options.

SiC doesn’t have a longer lasting bond with paint, the most durable coatings I’ve tested were all SiO2 based, not SiC. Slickness, both can be extremely slick, SiC as well as SiO2.

What determines longevity is resin quality over chemistry (assuming all other factors like surface prep + decon and proper flash times are correct).

Haven’t tried these but I can say with confidence, there is a physical limit on the amount of thickness a wipe on product can achieve over clearcoat. Cilajet Aero and SystemX Max are pretty much at that limit is what I’m told directly by the formulation chemists.

If you want more than 8-9 microns, you have to go the HVLP spray gun and paint booth route with spray on ceramic infused clearcoat. Although at this point you’re wetsanding the factory finish (for prep) and effectively repainting the car.

Originally Posted by India2022

Is there any solution that water drops don't collect on side mirror/window?

Yes, you need to ceramic coat your glasses and mirrors, will nearly eliminate your need for wipers as well. Beads will roll right off your mirrors.

Prep is very important, ensure you clay your glass thoroughly and use a mineral remover to address any hard water deposits before applying (25% IPA wipe and apply.)

RainX is obsolete tech that doesn’t last more than a few weeks, instead use something silica based like Carpro FlyBly30, application is as easy as RainX but it’ll last much longer.

Alternatively you get a pro detailer from any of the top tier ceramic mfg’s to apply a ceramic coating intended for glass surfaces, these will come with a 1-2 year warranty and don’t require constant reapplication.

Originally Posted by Thad E Ginathom

NB: it comes with warnings about breathing the dust and getting it on your paintwork! AJ56, any comments from you on this product?

there were several hard-water deposits on the glass. Ceriglass took them off easily.

Ceriglass is simply cerium oxide infused liquid polish for glass, it’s decent but nothing outstanding, you can very well polish with a standard medium cut abrasive like Menzerna 2500 and achieve the same results.

For hard water deposits, instead of abrasives, first use a mineral deposit remover like Puris D19, You’ll get results much faster and with less effort.

[troika]

Originally Posted by troika

Need suggestions as to how I could remove a black permanent marker mark ( a 2 digit number written by the rto while renewing the registration at 15yrs��) on the bonnet. The colour of the bonnet is metallic grey. I have tried various stuff including vinegar etc. No luck so far!

Thanks gentlemen for all the suggestions, sorry didn’t respond earlier.
Was able to clean it with isopropyl alcohol spray (99.9%). Just a couple of light spays and the marks just dissolved. Wiped it off with microfiber cloth.

[Mortis]

AJ56 I forgot to ask what your thoughts are on Max Protects UNC R and R Lite ? It seems to be an interesting product.

Also, what product is good to actually nourish rubber seals, I've heard that Aerospace 303 and one particular head gasket seal restorer product work well.

[AJ56]

Originally Posted by Mortis

AJ56 I forgot to ask what your thoughts are on Max Protects UNC R and R Lite ? It seems to be an interesting product.

Also, what product is good to actually nourish rubber seals, I've heard that Aerospace 303 and one particular head gasket seal restorer product work well.

For seals silicone lube spray works well, Wurth makes one you can get on Amazon. Spray into a towel and apply to avoid overspray.

As for UNC-R, I tested it many years ago when it launched and it’s very hydrophobic, as every good ceramic coating should be. But, it doesn’t add any hardness to your clearcoat, it’s as soft as factory paint and this results in fine wash induced marring over time.

So in a few months, the patch that was coated with UNC-R ended up looking worse than competing pro coatings as they bumped up the hardness slightly, leading to less marring unlike UNC-R.

In general, Max Protect doesn’t even seem active anymore as they’ve not had a new coating launch in nearly a decade. YouTube channel is dead as well with the last upload 8 years ago.

[Mortis]

Originally Posted by AJ56

For seals silicone lube spray works well, Wurth makes one you can get on Amazon. Spray into a towel and apply to avoid overspray.

As for UNC-R, I tested it many years ago when it launched and it’s very hydrophobic, as every good ceramic coating should be. But, it doesn’t add any hardness to your clearcoat, it’s as soft as factory paint and this results in fine wash induced marring over time.

So in a few months, the patch that was coated with UNC-R ended up looking worse than competing pro coatings as they bumped up the hardness slightly, leading to less marring unlike UNC-R.

In general, Max Protect doesn’t even seem active anymore as they’ve not had a new coating launch in nearly a decade. YouTube channel is dead as well with the last upload 8 years ago.

Good to know. It seemed to be an interesting product - long lasting and a meatier sacrificial layer.

I almost forgot, what polish would you recommend for getting out micro scratches from clear plastic such as the instrument cluster by hand or atleast reduce them ?

[AJ56]

Originally Posted by Mortis

I almost forgot, what polish would you recommend for getting out micro scratches from clear plastic such as the instrument cluster by hand or atleast reduce them ?

Menzerna 400 followed by Menzerna 3000 for heavily swirled glossy plastic panels.

If you have light swirls then skip the cutting step and go straight to the finishing polish, Carpro Essence or Menzerna 3000/3500.

In case you’re unable to achieve a haze free finish, you’re dealing with very soft clearcoat and you might need super fine polishes to achieve a clear finish. Essence plus or Rupes UnoPure are great ultra fine polishes to use here.

The key is to never apply excessive pressure when applying any abrasive by hand, let the product do the work and keep in mind you’ll need repeated application as it’s a very slow process by hand.

When done, 25% IPA wipe and apply a spray sealant/coating to protect.

[Mr.Bentley]

I love to clean my car, it's like a meditation / therapy for me.

I have a few limitations owing to my underground parking slot - there is no water or power supply (but there is a water drain channel adjacent to my slot). And I cannot park and wash in a slot where both are available due silly to apartment issues.

I've been using a waterless washing liquid (spraying it with a pressure spray bottle with manual pumping) with 2 microfiber cloths. I do it once a month or when I feel the car is dirty.

Is there any better setup to get my car a decent wash?

I can think of:
1. Using a pump water from a bucket (battery powered). Any such devices?
2. Use a foam nozzle to the 2ltr manual pressure spray with a 3M shampoo. How much water do I need for this job? (for a Grand i10)

Thanks in Advance!

[neo_the_one]

Originally Posted by Mr.Bentley

I love to clean my car, it's like a meditation / therapy for me.

I have a few limitations owing to my underground parking slot - there is no water or power supply (but there is a water drain channel adjacent to my slot). And I cannot park and wash in a slot where both are available due silly to apartment issues.

I've been using a waterless washing liquid (spraying it with a pressure spray bottle with manual pumping) with 2 microfiber cloths. I do it once a month or when I feel the car is dirty.

Is there any better setup to get my car a decent wash?

I can think of:
1. Using a pump water from a bucket (battery powered). Any such devices?
2. Use a foam nozzle to the 2ltr manual pressure spray with a 3M shampoo. How much water do I need for this job? (for a Grand i10)

Thanks in Advance!

Sir few years back I was in the same dilemma, when I used to live on first floor. It was not possible for me to connect a garden hose which needed to be greater then 25 meters to reach my car. Finally I bought a 16 liters battery powered pesticide sprayer from local market (very cheap for the same model as sold on amazon or flipkart). Moreover there are multiple spray heads given along with the sprayer, one of which can be used to wash vehicles as the water output and pressure is very good . Mine is lead-acid battery powered but now you can also find li-ion battery powered sprayers. Moreover don't fall for those li-ion battery powered portable pressure washers of Chinese or other brands, the output if worse than pesticide sprayer. Last but not the least if you have a very good budget then you can get makita's cordless pressue washer https://makita.in/product/dhw080/. But this will put a big dent to your pocket as its performance is very good.

[pcpranav]

Originally Posted by India2022

Any feedback on this type of product to make side windows and side rearview mirrors fog waterproof?
...

Originally Posted by BLACNWYTE

One word - Don't.

I had purchased a similar from Amazon, costing about the same and it's absolute rubbish after the second rain or you roll up/down the windows a couple of times. These will scratch if there is dust trapped near the windowsill and now I'm frankly afraid to remove them for the fear of leaving the glue residue or worse scratching the glass.

I have used these films few times and can give a review. Initially I bought few from AliExpress (long back!) and then Amazon.in - I tried to apply it myself, but was not very successful in good installation. Though the film worked well for very few days in repelling water.

Since 2 years, I have been going to a local auto-accessories dealer, he charges some 300-400 bucks for set of 4 films (2 ORVM, 2 Windows), and since those boys have regular practice the application is quite proper and quick. My observation, the film works well for most part of Mumbai monsoon - the water kinda doesn't stay on the glass and we get good visibility. Once in few days, I gently wipe the film to remove the surface dirt. Once the effect is over in about 1.5 months, I gently peel-off the films very easily. One can see a demarcation patch where film was applied, so I clean the glass with soap-water and glass-cleaner, and it normalizes the surface.

I have uploaded a YT-Shorts on that film's effect my YT channel "Pranav Bhayani" - not posting that video link here since it was recorded in Hindi (I somehow recall TBHP only allows English video links, not sure).


Ques: for upcoming monsoon will I re-apply the film ? YES, doesn't cost much, and even if film's effects last a month of heavy monsoon, I'm fine.


I have also used Rain-X and recently tried Waxpol Rain Repellant liquids, which I rub on all other car glasses (nothing on front windshield), including rear windshield. I spend hardly 15-20 minutes rubbing such liquid on clean glass surface, then wipe away after it dries. The water repelling effect stays for about a week, which is fair. Then redo the process. My car is washed by watchman, so account that.

regards,