[mohitk1993]

Originally Posted by anuj_mathur2000

I have a 2009 Dzire vdi which has done almost 70k. While most of the times the drive is smooth, at times I feel that something is stopping my car from cruising in its usual way. Interestingly, the gear-rpm-speed combination is same in both the scenarios, so, per se I do not have to over rev the engine. Nonetheless, I need to apply more pressure on the accelerator pedal. Even my steering also feels a tad heavier than it is, when I face such a problem. In short, there is noticeable resistance while driving.

Sudden change in the engine characteristics such as loss of power, cruising ability and heaviness in steering all point towards an ECU error. The ECU keeps record of all the previous less-than-ideal driving conditions and whenever it sees any of the previous requirements being met, it immediately switches over to that mode. This may explain why you seldom experience these conditions and not always.

Here's a DIY. Remove the terminals of the ECU, wait for 15 minutes and re-connect. The ECU will reset itself and go back to factory condition. However, do note that it will forget your driving characteristics and you might feel strange for the first few kms. Also, do this only if you feel you are competent enough to do it. A busted ECU can be very costly to replace.

Just to be safe, ask the MASS to do it for you. They will be more than happy to carry out this simple procedure.

Originally Posted by anuj_mathur2000

Based on the recommendation of fellow BHPians, I paid a visit to Imtiaz in GK II, New Delhi. He seems to be quite knowledgeable (at-least to a layman like me) and said that the intake manifold is choked. He will charge 1,500 for cleaning the intake manifold which apparently is a full day's job. I don’t know if I should take the chance because up till now, I haven’t gone outside MASS, except for a body repair job.

To be honest, theoretically, the Intake Manifold can never be choked. It would be better if you keep this option for the last.

[asdfvinay]

Originally Posted by anuj_mathur2000

Thanks Vinay. Would a clogged air mass sensor be responsible for the stiffness in the steering wheel as well?

Dust on air mass sensor should not effect the steering wheel. Even if your problem is due to some thing else, it should not have an effect on the steering unless the power steering pump itself is the cause. To my knowledge your car might be having an electronic power steering(EPS) so there is no pump involved.
Unlike hydraulic power steerings, EPS assists the steering only till a certain speed say 40. Past this speed the steering will be stiffer than what you feel at lower speeds. This is the way EPS works. Next time you have this doubt, slow down to parking speeds and check your steering effort.

[namit]

I am having this engine drag issue / intermittent resistance in my honda city since day 1 and its 2011 model but its only with A/C ON

Got the compressor replaced but no change

Can anybody suggest what should be done next to resolve this issue

Someone suggested A/c Clutch but honda guys claim that its part of the compressor and thats been changed but in vain

Need prompt help as my cars warranty is about to lapse and i want the reatoration to be done within warranty

[RSR]

I used to face an engine drag/misfire/backfire problem on my dad's i10 (1.1 lit.) more than a year ago. It occurred suddenly and was a pain to drive the car under such conditions.

The Hyundai service centre diagnosed it to be an O2 or Lambda sensor that went bad. They refused to replace it free of cost, saying the 2-year warranty on the car was over. I drove the car back with the O2 sensor disconnected and it was running perfectly.

I checked the owner's manual and found that the O2 sensor was covered under the emission warranty for a term of 3 years. I e-mailed Hyundai customer care (after I found that their call centre guy was useless) with all the details.

The next day, I got a call from the Hyundai service centre, who apologised and asked me to bring the car in. I took it there and got the O2 sensor replaced free of cost under the 3-year emission warranty. After that, the issue did not occur again, touchwood.

In some cases, this drag/misfire/occasional backfire issue can be caused by a faulty/clogged O2 sensor. If it's out of emission warranty (which is usually longer than the standard warranty), one can also try cleaning the sensor using simple but special techniques, instead of replacing it, as it costs a decent sum (~Rs.7k for the i10) and there are several detailed online and pictorial guides on how to clean a clogged O2/lambda sensor.

Hope this is of use to someone.

[anuj_mathur2000]

Originally Posted by DerAlte

- An error condition that prevents normal operation, or causes the engine controller to choose a lesser safer operating point.

Originally Posted by mohitk1993

Sudden change in the engine characteristics such as loss of power, cruising ability and heaviness in steering all point towards an ECU error. The ECU keeps record of all the previous less-than-ideal driving conditions and whenever it sees any of the previous requirements being met, it immediately switches over to that mode. This may explain why you seldom experience these conditions and not always.

I think you may have a valid point here. Long ago, I was advised by a service engineer not to start the car immediately, but rather switch it to the 'ON' position first, wait for the glow plug indicator to go off (which generally takes 5 seconds) and then crank the engine. I also validated this from the owner's manual (although it says that this should be done only on a cold engine, while, I do it every time).

I have been religiously following this approach. But few days back and especially after this thread, something struck me and I cranked the car in one go without waiting for the glow light to go off. I have changed my approach and since then, my car has been cruising and the resistance which has been bugging me for most part of the car's life, has suddenly disappeared.

Incidentally, I mentioned this to my wife and was shocked to learn that she knew all along that the erratic behaviour doesn't occur when the engine is cranked in one shot.

Nonetheless, would seek the views of the experts and whether this is the possible cause of the issue.

[namit]

but my problem is only with A/C ON ansd not otherwise.

Experts in the forum please help / advice as even Honda guys / experts have no clue on this behaviour of my car.

Also to update further, i got the compressor replaced and the issue still persists.

[humyum]

Originally Posted by anuj_mathur2000

I have a 2009 Dzire vdi which has done almost 70k. While most of the times the drive is smooth, at times I feel that something is stopping my car from cruising in its usual way. Interestingly, the gear-rpm-speed combination is same in both the scenarios, so, per se I do not have to over rev the engine. Nonetheless, I need to apply more pressure on the accelerator pedal. Even my steering also feels a tad heavier than it is, when I face such a problem. In short, there is noticeable resistance while driving. The problem generally vanishes on its own only on the next restart.

I haven’t been able to notice any pattern when this problem crops up. In fact, I have ruled out most of the factors that I could think of – different roads, climate, traffic conditions, fuel quality, tyre pressure (nitrogen), clogged air filter, floor mat placement and even different boots! I had the tyres changed at 45k, EGR done around the same time and clutch assembly changed at 62k. Though my car has become peppier after the clutch replacement, the problem still persists. I have consulted MASS but as usual, they aren’t as observant as they should be to notice the problem. They have also given a clear chit to the turbocharger as well.

Based on the recommendation of fellow BHPians, I paid a visit to Imtiaz in GK II, New Delhi. He seems to be quite knowledgeable (at-least to a layman like me) and said that the intake manifold is choked. He will charge 1,500 for cleaning the intake manifold which apparently is a full day's job. I don’t know if I should take the chance because up till now, I haven’t gone outside MASS, except for a body repair job.

Has anyone faced a similar issue? Desperately need advice here.

I know exactly what your problem is. Let me elaborate and try and explain what you feel. Tell me if i am wrong.

- Your steering feels heavy like you mentioned. While taking U turns, the last part of the steering moment towards a U turn goes in with a lot of resistance right ?

- The car always wants to go straight and resists steering moments from left to right, is that right ?

- The turbo lag feels enormous and the acceleration in the turbo zone feels like I ll start and die down in no time right ?

You my friend are facing an overly tight steering damper. If loosening it makes a steering make a 'kat kat' sound when turned right to left when the car is at standstill, ask them to apply the special grease that they apply and then retorque it again. A proper MASS will know how to play around with this.

Because of the heavy steering, this is what you 'perceive' about the acceleration and peppiness part. Its physiological.

The damper adjustment with the lose steering will 99.99% solve your problem.

Cheers

[namit]

Penlax !! you were spot ON in your analysis and basis that got the a/c compressor replaced, which according to Honda guys contains the a/c clutch also. Even after change the issue persists.

I have also sent you private message and looking forward to your revert.

Thanks !!

[Anand_A]

At last have found a post on the problem being faced by me on my Linea.

Have been searching for a solution to the same problem since Linea got an A/c upgrade. The TASS were unable to find a solution.

I also feel a drag in driving with A/c on and even after switching off the condition remains the same for may be a week and recovers slightly if the A/c is not switched on during that period.

Could it be the A/c clutch , A/c bearing or Ignition coil problem

[createrkid]

Hyundai Getz gls (petrol - 2005)

So I was driving and I noticed that the engine seems to be braking a lot these days. The car has no issues with accelerator input. It still seems very punchy. Noticed an evident decrease in speed in third gear when I let go off the accelerator . I don't think that brakes are the problem because acceleration is quite the same as before. Can anyone point out to me what's wrong with my car? Also, I haven't changed the engine oil in quite some time, could this be the issue?

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by createrkid

Noticed an evident decrease in speed in third gear when I let go off the accelerator. I don't think that brakes are the problem because acceleration is quite the same as before.

To be doubly sure, why not jack up the car and see if all 4 wheels are rotating freely or no.

Also look at the wheel bearings if they haven't been changed.

[akmehta]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

To be doubly sure, why not jack up the car and see if all 4 wheels are rotating freely or no.

Also look at the wheel bearings if they haven't been changed.

Originally Posted by createrkid

Hyundai Getz gls (petrol - 2005)

So I was driving and I noticed that the engine seems to be braking a lot these days. The car has no issues with accelerator input. It still seems very punchy. Noticed an evident decrease in speed in third gear when I let go off the accelerator . I don't think that brakes are the problem because acceleration is quite the same as before. Can anyone point out to me what's wrong with my car? Also, I haven't changed the engine oil in quite some time, could this be the issue?

Do try out what anurag suggested, also do throw in some more details like any changes in idle rpm, throttle response in neutral compared to earlier; also are the oil levels ok.
And yes, being lathargic over engine oil change can drill a big hole in your pocket, have seen a similar case like yours; crankshaft bearing shell dislocated

[hothatchaway]

Originally Posted by createrkid

Hyundai Getz gls (petrol - 2005)

So I was driving and I noticed that the engine seems to be braking a lot these days. The car has no issues with accelerator input. It still seems very punchy. Noticed an evident decrease in speed in third gear when I let go off the accelerator . I don't think that brakes are the problem because acceleration is quite the same as before. Can anyone point out to me what's wrong with my car? Also, I haven't changed the engine oil in quite some time, could this be the issue?

When you say engine braking am assuming this phenomenon happens when you downshift and if its an aggressive one then the engine will kick in. If its while upshifting from 2nd to 3rd and you experience a loss of power to the wheels while the engine is still gunning, could be an issue with the clutch

[mvadg]

Check air filter, (and other things blocking the inlet), exhaust block (outlet block), PCV valve, tyre pressures. No ECU diagnostic codes? Is your check engine light on?

[createrkid]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

To be doubly sure, why not jack up the car and see if all 4 wheels are rotating freely or no.

Also look at the wheel bearings if they haven't been changed.

Originally Posted by akmehta

Do try out what anurag suggested, also do throw in some more details like any changes in idle rpm, throttle response in neutral compared to earlier; also are the oil levels ok.
And yes, being lathargic over engine oil change can drill a big hole in your pocket, have seen a similar case like yours; crankshaft bearing shell dislocated

Originally Posted by hothatchaway

When you say engine braking am assuming this phenomenon happens when you downshift and if its an aggressive one then the engine will kick in. If its while upshifting from 2nd to 3rd and you experience a loss of power to the wheels while the engine is still gunning, could be an issue with the clutch

Thanks for the suggestions guys, I will try them over the weekend and update the thread if anything has changed. Other suggestions are more than welcome

Originally Posted by mvadg

Check air filter, (and other things blocking the inlet), exhaust block (outlet block), PCV valve, tyre pressures. No ECU diagnostic codes? Is your check engine light on?

Nope, check engine light is off as it should be