Team-BHP - Steering vibrates when braking
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Almost nearing 60000 kms on my ikon1.3, my front brakes started making a churning sound when i brake at a moderate speed.
So, i got my brake pads changed to OE new ones and the discs skimmed.

Churning sound's gone and now Mr. ticking noise arrives when i brake at >40kph speeds. MyTVS guys, or may i call them "Trial and Error" guys remove my rear wheels , check the drums, clean it and take it for a trial. Sound still persists. Next step, they dismantle my front brakes and doubting the disc rotor, they borrow it from another Ikon which comes for service and check.No noise, now. So, after the research, these guys tell me that my old discs being skimmed twice and have around 17mm thickness while there should be minimum 18mm are the culprits, it'll cost me 2500 for a set. I sighed & said OK.

Now, New brake pads+ New brake discs = 'New' Steering wheel vibrations when braking. :Frustrati
I suspect the steel rims have lost balance after 9000 kms since wheel balancing.

Anyone here experienced this problem or have any idea whats gone wrong?

Wheel Alingnment and balancing should solve this problem.

It must have messed up removing and mounting the wheels so many times.

yeah i just got my car serviced and tyres rotated and balanced - and it worked great except a godawful vibration beyond 105 (which I obviously didnt hit during the first week in Blore traffic) - rebalancing has reduced that to negligible levels.
The brake pads were also changed. Is it possible theres a problem with those ?

Quote:

Originally Posted by nitrous
Next step, they dismantle my front brakes and doubting the disc rotor, they borrow it from another Ikon which comes for service and check.No noise, now.

Now, why don't I like this? Surprising that TVS would allow parts of other customers' cars to be tested in this unscrupulous fashion. No offence to you, Nitrous.

I have a similar problem with my GTX - the brake shoes aren't worn completely out but there's a grinding noise from the front left disc under hard braking. Of course, Anuroop has not figured out why this is occurring after 3 visits.

I'm going to try changing the brake pads as the next step (when they become available).

Hey Nitrous

I was facing the same problem with my car, someone sugested me 2 go in for wheel alignment & balancing which solved my problem almost 90%.

Rest 10% can b solved by rotating ur tyres inside & outside.

I mean just turn in opposite side if u have covered almost 25000 kms.

Enjoy Revving.

I suspect wheel alignment problem. I once ignored this symtom of steering vibration for a long time and finally had a flat tyre while driving in the middle of a 8 lane highway. The inside edge had completely worn out. :Frustrati

If the vibration is only while braking, check the rotors. Resurface or replace them. Sometimes its just a brake rotor alignment problem.

Quote:

I have a similar problem with my GTX - the brake shoes aren't worn completely out but there's a grinding noise from the front left disc under hard braking. Of course, Anuroop has not figured out why this is occurring after 3 visits.
Same here. Brake pads were not worn out completely. But,churning noise.
Can't understand why ???

Quote:

Originally Posted by tsk1979
If the vibration is only while braking, check the rotors. Resurface or replace them. Sometimes its just a brake rotor alignment problem.

I think you are right. If the problem is only while braking, it can't be alignment. I remember having that problem with Chevy Malibu, turned out to be manufacturing fault in their rotar, Chevy had free part/labour regarding this complaint. Mine was replaced twice in 2.5 years following my complaint.

Quote:

Originally Posted by nitrous
Now, New brake pads+ New brake discs = 'New' Steering wheel vibrations when braking.

Given their style of business, are you sure you got "new" discs!! lol
Maybe some1s old warped discs....?

And as far as the noise....really dont know exactly what you mean by "churning noise"...so no comment.
cya
R

Same here ,
Just got the brake pads replaced, and observed, the car veers to right while breaking?

still finding the Problem/ solution :mad:

Quote:

Originally Posted by DRC
Same here ,
Just got the brake pads replaced, and observed, the car veers to right while breaking?

Sticky brake piston? clogged line? brakes not bled properly?....etc

cya
R

What is this bleeding,
Can I do it myself?

Thanks
DRC

Brake Bleeding is not an DIY friendly procedure..!

It involves Replacing the brake Fluid entirely, ( Brake Fluid has an Tendency to absorb moisture over time, So ideally The fluid should be replaced from 18 months- 24 Months or when you open the brake fluid case and feel the fluid all watery)

After replacing the Fluid, You need to remove the front tires of the car, and remove the Disc Rotor Assembly and then there is this point you need to open to remove any Air Bubbles in the line, When done successfully the Oil will shoot out in a Straight Line,That's when you replace everything back and your Brakes are Bled...!

I'm not a Technical Guy, So there might be a few points I did not communicate correctly, However this is what i saw being done on My Lancer @ 30,000 KM..The Brake Shoe's were changed to Non OEM-Auto Clutch and Disc's Polished..!

Lancer OEM brakes are made by Soyu Toyu or something similar sounding can anyone confirm, Currently I'm using Auto Clutch Brakes.

DRC , The veering could be cause of Mis alignment- Get Wheel Balancing and Alignment done at the earliest or could be the Disc have not been aligned properly when removed for polishing or inspection

Quote:

Originally Posted by DRC
What is this bleeding,
Can I do it myself?

Well you CAN, its not really that hard, but usually you will need an extra hand (or in this case a foot...to pump the brakes, while someone else is at wheels).
I would suggest you get it done at the garage, and watch, atleast for the first time.

What they are doing is pumping out the old brake fluid from the lines (along with the air bubbles and moisture) and filling new brake fluid in (taken from the reservoiur). When doing so first you increase the pressure in the lines by pumping on the brakes a few times and then keeping them pressed, and then you also have to make sure that when you release some of the "dirty" fluid at the caliper, you should close the valve there before the brake fluid pressure level drops to a point where air might be sucked into the line. Repeat this several times until you think you have done it enough to have drained all the old fluid from the lines. There is also a correct order to do the bleeding in (which wheel first).

Read about it online, get it done and watch.
Though, chances are that this probably isnt the reason for your car veering when braking :p

cya
R


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