[DudeWithaFiat]

Originally Posted by dustom_99

Please let us know what exactly was wrong,i face similar problem once in a while

3 Verna owners have faced the same/similar issue in this thread. Are they all 1.4 or 1.6 CRDi ?

[dustom_99]

Although I do not know exact source of this problem ,in my case out was being caused by electrical overload.found out that some of the wires were routed near the clutch master cylinder in my case.some times they short circuited, bike switched off and on next start would go into this crazy mode.
Re setting the ecu is one crazy art in my case, without any electronic equipment or scanner.
While experimenting I found a way to make ecu forget every thing.
It goes something like this.
Under the plastic cover over the engine, you can locate a cam angle sensor.it is rite next to egr valve,going inside cam cover. Disconnect this sensor and crank the motor.motor would not start but wouldemit quite a bit of smoke.
While cranking simply disconnect the ecu's negative (ecu's aluminium body also works as negative,so that also would need to be out of circuit).
Stop cranking and switch off ignition, reconnect cam sensor, ecu negative etc and you get an ecu that does not remember any thing atall.
simple resetting by disconnecting battery or ecu did not work.
I have been able to reproduce the problem and solution a few times.

[Hashim]

My friend who owns a garage is having same issue with one customer's Verna CRDI. He called me today for scanning the car and 4 errors were shown which were related to injectors and fuel pressure sensor which was obvious because its engine has gone bust and now its running on a engine bought from scrap dealer.
This engine is rebuilt and has all injectors new but the wiring and ECU is still taken from the old engine. Now after clearing the old error codes its now not showing any error but still its running on limp mode and not going beyond 3000 RPM. Few things we checked:
Air filter
Exhaust choked
Turbo
Sensor wires and plugs
Reset the ECU by disconnecting battery

What could be the reason for this limp mode now?

[nijelj]

Originally Posted by Hashim

This engine is rebuilt and has all injectors new but the wiring and ECU is still taken from the old engine. Now after clearing the old error codes its now not showing any error but still its running on limp mode and not going beyond 3000 RPM. .....
What could be the reason for this limp mode now?

Hashim, were you able to find out about why this was happening?

In this thread, there was a talk about two sensors being changed from either side of the engine to rectify a similar issue.(I suspect this is the Cam shaft and crank shaft sensors which may cause a synchronisation problem at higher engine rpms)

[Hashim]

Yes we were able to find the real cause, there was a sensor at turbo pipe on the front side of bonnet near radiator and one wire was broken. Because of the covering over connector, this broken wire was not visible. Weird thing is that this sensor did not show up in the DTC.

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by Hashim

Yes we were able to find the real cause, there was a sensor at turbo pipe on the front side of bonnet near radiator and one wire was broken. Because of the covering over connector, this broken wire was not visible. Weird thing is that this sensor did not show up in the DTC.

This sensor controls the air volume that is pumped out of the turbo. Basically when you floor the throttle, more air is required and ecu sends the signal to this sensor which in turn controls the turbo to pump in more air.

In dual channel diesel tuning box made my race dynamics, the box plugs into this sensor to demand more air when the rail pressure is increased by the other channel.

Sorry for sounding crude. This is what I gathered from the folks at race dynamics

[nijelj]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

This sensor controls the air volume that is pumped out of the turbo. Basically when you floor the throttle, more air is required and ecu sends the signal to this sensor which in turn controls the turbo to pump in more air.

In dual channel diesel tuning box made my race dynamics, the box plugs into this sensor to demand more air when the rail pressure is increased by the other channel.

Sorry for sounding crude. This is what I gathered from the folks at race dynamics

So someone with an 'in' with R.D.Good to know.
The sensor (boost pressure) relays the boost generated from the VGT turbo to the ECU.if ECU detects that less pressure is there,it tells the VGT actuator to increase boost.
The R.D box must be fooling the ECU into thinking there is a low pressure by manipulating the signal from the boost pressure sensor(just like it manipulates the rail pressure signal).The ECU responds by telling the VGT to increase boost.So we end up getting more boost and more fueling at the same engine rpm.

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by nijelj

So someone with an 'in' with R.D.Good to know.
The sensor (boost pressure) relays the boost generated from the VGT turbo to the ECU.if ECU detects that less pressure is there,it tells the VGT actuator to increase boost.
The R.D box must be fooling the ECU into thinking there is a low pressure by manipulating the signal from the boost pressure sensor(just like it manipulates the rail pressure signal).The ECU responds by telling the VGT to increase boost.So we end up getting more boost and more fueling at the same engine rpm.

Lol, I am not 'in' with them . Got this gyan from them when I got the dual channel tuning box installed on our I20.

[gopa99]

Sharing an experience of my friend, having a 2010 Verna CRDI.

The Car, when on a half tank fuel or lower, would suddenly loose power, the steering would become heavy and then stall. It is almost an year since this started happening, and now he takes care never to go below half tank. Crank it and it would never start. No MIL and no error codes on the scanner. Try pumping the hand pump, still no use. But if you leave the car alone for about 30 minutes, and the car would again start. During service, they said everything was normal, and no error codes recorded.

I recently got up with him and cleaned the MAF, Fuel System and asked him to check if this problem recurred.
3 days later, he called me in distress, he was again stalled in peak traffic at the ORR (Bangalore). The car had a little lower than half tank. So now we decided to hand the car to Trident Hyundai in the stalled condition, and they are getting their experts to look at each and every plausible causes. Will update soon on the developments.

[Umesh Kumar61]

Have they checked the fuel pump( /fuel tank)

OT: my doubt to cleared by gurus.: any pointers to vapour lock?

[gopa99]

Originally Posted by Umesh Kumar61

Have they checked the fuel pump( /fuel tank)

OT: my doubt to cleared by gurus.: any pointers to vapour lock?

Spot on Umesh.
I just read your post as I was going to share the findings from trident engineers.
They actually located a small crack inside the fuel float assembly piping which they said was generating vapour lock when the fuel level in the tank was below half.
Having that replaced, the car is running fine and is now almost seeing low fuel alarm, but the engine seems unaware
Do find the pics of the damaged part.

[Umesh Kumar61]

Originally Posted by gopa99

Having that replaced, the car is running fine and is now almost seeing low fuel alarm, but the engine seems unaware
Do find the pics of the damaged part.

Glad to know that the car is running fine!

Regards,
Umesh

[santhosh_lv]

Originally Posted by gopa99

Spot on Umesh.
I just read your post as I was going to share the findings from trident engineers.
They actually located a small crack inside the fuel float assembly piping which they said was generating vapour lock when the fuel level in the tank was below half.
Having that replaced, the car is running fine and is now almost seeing low fuel alarm, but the engine seems unaware
Do find the pics of the damaged part.

Gopa - Interesting to know. I have a similar problem with my 2014 verna CRDI Automatic transmission. I have given it for inspection @Advaith Hyundai Subramanyapura, Bangalore due to a problem in engine getting turned off while driving. It happened like 4 times till now in last 1.5 years and i failed to replicate the problem. However, i am not sure how much our issues are related, but i will keep your solution in mind and look at the fuel gauge if the engine shuts off next time. I also heard similar issue from 2 other friends.

[gopa99]

Originally Posted by santhosh_lv

Gopa - Interesting to know. I have a similar problem with my 2014 verna CRDI Automatic transmission. I have given it for inspection @Advaith Hyundai Subramanyapura, Bangalore due to a problem in engine getting turned off while driving. It happened like 4 times till now in last 1.5 years and i failed to replicate the problem. However, i am not sure how much our issues are related, but i will keep your solution in mind and look at the fuel gauge if the engine shuts off next time. I also heard similar issue from 2 other friends.

Nice to note that the post could be of help to you. I would also suggest you to show it to Trident Jakkasandra outlet if it is unresolved. I can connect you with the Service Manager Rinianz personally so that you get the right attention to your matter. So do keep me posted if you need that help.

[sreerknair]

BHPians, need help. I own a Manza QJD (Diesel) 2010 model, 70K driven. Today when I started the car in the evening (cold start, was parked for 9 Hrs), it was jerking slightly (both in reverse & 1st gear) and then noticed that the car won't accelerate how much ever I floor the accelerator pedal. The RPM too was not going up as usual. It was revving up very slowly and wasn't crossing 2K rpm. Drove like this with maximum speed at 15KM/Hr in 2nd gear for about a KM and after that everything started working normally. I am hesitant to take the car to work tomorrow and will be dropping it at a FNG. May I know what could be the potential issues? Appreciate your help.