[quadra]

Here are the pics taken from Blackberry 9300. I will be trying out the workarounds soon.

[paragsachania]

I faced this problem in my car too. The solution was pretty simple. Went to a neighborhood general workshop where they welded a good bolt onto the alloy's nut. Let it cool down and then used a spanner gently to loosen the nut. It was successful at first attempt itself.

But make sure you disconnect both the terminals of the battery before attempting this.

After this, I completely got rid of those alloy nuts and settled for a new type which were covered from top.

[Blow Horn Ok]

Gas cutting will result in falling of molten metal on the alloy and it will ruin the alloy as well as the tyre.

You can try the welding or chiseling method. Also you can try a drilling method as i mentioned earlier, Drilling would destroy the stud and the nut would come off easily.

[dadu]

Originally Posted by paragsachania

I faced this problem in my car too. The solution was pretty simple. Went to a neighborhood general workshop where they welded a good bolt onto the alloy's nut. Let it cool down and then used a spanner gently to loosen the nut. It was successful at first attempt itself.

But make sure you disconnect both the terminals of the battery before attempting this.

This is what was in my mind too, looks most suitable at this point of time. Weld - let it cool down - Spray a lot of WD-40 on the inside and old nut contact point with the rim - use the spanner on the new nut to dislodge.

Workshops also have a torque clamp, its like your hand adjustable tota wrench(used by plumbing guys) but with spring actuation for tight clamping, you can try that too.

Do post the final solution, whatever method you apply.

[fine69]

Can someone share what are the reasons a nut could round-off like that? From the pics I'm unable to make out if rust has caused this?

[zaks]

Also you could go to a metal working shop which has brazing/welding and get a bigger dia nut brazed/welded to the rounded nut, then once it cool down, apply some WD40 and then you can remove the nut by using the spanner of appropriate size.
Looking at the pics this is not feasible.

If you have patience or some mechanic, use a flat file to bring back the edges to shape and use a spanner after thoroughly wetting with WD40.

Originally Posted by fine69

Can someone share what are the reasons a nut could round-off like that? From the pics I'm unable to make out if rust has caused this?

Low quality steel and/or improper use of spanner.

[Mr.Boss]

Similar case happened to one of our machinery. Nut is deep inside the cavity and the clearance is hardly 2 mm after the socket. Our poor mechanic couldn't find a better 'jugad' for removing it.

I gave a try and finally worked out.
-Heated the socket to red hot with welding torch
-Quenched it with oil
-Socket shrinked
-Hammered over the nut
-Unscrewed with ease.

Hope this is worth trying before drilling & damaging the stud. All the best

[Blow Horn Ok]

@Mr. Boss: IMO Damage of stud and its replacement would be less painful than the damage of alloy. If the alloy deforms or get stuck/fused with the stud on heating, then it would be a real headache. I think any 'jugaad' which requires heating/melting should be avoided in such case.

[Mr.Boss]

Originally Posted by Blow Horn Ok

@Mr. Boss: IMO Damage of stud and its replacement would be less painful than the damage of alloy. If the alloy deforms or get stuck/fused with the stud on heating, then it would be a real headache. I think any 'jugaad' which requires heating/melting should be avoided in such case.

100% agreed. In our case I have gone with this jugad because damaging the stud and replacing will take atleast 2 days (entire set up to be dismantled and assembled)

But here only the socket is to be heated and no where affects the alloys (except durring hammering) I am against drilling because alloys are so soft that it could be damaged if the drill slips off.

[torquecurve]

One Solution which I can think of and something I have used for a similar issue.

Basically it is the same 'weld another nut over the existing nut, but with a difference.

In the market you will get sockets to which a handle is attached and it is turned (similar to the sparkplug socket).

What we had done was pushed this socket over the existing nut. The clearance was 1mm or so. Then we mixed araldite (not quick setting araldite but regular). Applied a thin layer of the same on the inside of the socket. Allowed it to dry overnight (almost 14 hrs). Then used the handle (I used the long rod that we get with the jack) and one twist and the nut came off.

Araldite has a very high shear strength which allowed us to do this easily. It is safer than welding, hammering etc. Instead of using a socket you can use a nut as well which fits on top of the existing nut.

[quadra]

Originally Posted by paragsachania

I faced this problem in my car too. The solution was pretty simple. Went to a neighborhood general workshop where they welded a good bolt onto the alloy's nut. Let it cool down and then used a spanner gently to loosen the nut. It was successful at first attempt itself.

But make sure you disconnect both the terminals of the battery before attempting this.

After this, I completely got rid of those alloy nuts and settled for a new type which were covered from top.

Thanks parag. This weekend will try out all the options.

Originally Posted by Blow Horn Ok

Gas cutting will result in falling of molten metal on the alloy and it will ruin the alloy as well as the tyre.

You can try the welding or chiseling method. Also you can try a drilling method as i mentioned earlier, Drilling would destroy the stud and the nut would come off easily.

Attachment 907688

I agree, dont want to get into damaged alloy mode.

Originally Posted by dadu

This is what was in my mind too, looks most suitable at this point of time. Weld - let it cool down - Spray a lot of WD-40 on the inside and old nut contact point with the rim - use the spanner on the new nut to dislodge.

Workshops also have a torque clamp, its like your hand adjustable tota wrench(used by plumbing guys) but with spring actuation for tight clamping, you can try that too.

Do post the final solution, whatever method you apply.

Thanks. Will post the final solution for sure.

Originally Posted by fine69

Can someone share what are the reasons a nut could round-off like that? From the pics I'm unable to make out if rust has caused this?

These are stock bolts and i guess over a period of time removal & refitment of those nuts caused the nuts edges to worn out. Why this one nut only? Lemme google the answer

Originally Posted by zaks

Also you could go to a metal working shop which has brazing/welding and get a bigger dia nut brazed/welded to the rounded nut, then once it cool down, apply some WD40 and then you can remove the nut by using the spanner of appropriate size.
Looking at the pics this is not feasible.

If you have patience or some mechanic, use a flat file to bring back the edges to shape and use a spanner after thoroughly wetting with WD40.

Low quality steel and/or improper use of spanner.

Thanks.
But why this one nut only?

Originally Posted by Mr.Boss

Similar case happened to one of our machinery. Nut is deep inside the cavity and the clearance is hardly 2 mm after the socket. Our poor mechanic couldn't find a better 'jugad' for removing it.

I gave a try and finally worked out.
-Heated the socket to red hot with welding torch
-Quenched it with oil
-Socket shrinked
-Hammered over the nut
-Unscrewed with ease.

Hope this is worth trying before drilling & damaging the stud. All the best

Thanks for the advice. This method looks harsh to me. Lets see

Originally Posted by torquecurve

One Solution which I can think of and something I have used for a similar issue.

Basically it is the same 'weld another nut over the existing nut, but with a difference.

In the market you will get sockets to which a handle is attached and it is turned (similar to the sparkplug socket).

What we had done was pushed this socket over the existing nut. The clearance was 1mm or so. Then we mixed araldite (not quick setting araldite but regular). Applied a thin layer of the same on the inside of the socket. Allowed it to dry overnight (almost 14 hrs). Then used the handle (I used the long rod that we get with the jack) and one twist and the nut came off.

Araldite has a very high shear strength which allowed us to do this easily. It is safer than welding, hammering etc. Instead of using a socket you can use a nut as well which fits on top of the existing nut.

Thanks, will try em out.

[rajeev k]

Another method. Weld a nut on to the rounded off head and use a socket spanner for the welded nut. Provide proper earthing and isolate all electronic components including the processor.

[CANPUSH]

Originally Posted by torquecurve

One Solution which I can think of and something I have used for a similar issue.

Basically it is the same 'weld another nut over the existing nut, but with a difference.

In the market you will get sockets to which a handle is attached and it is turned (similar to the sparkplug socket).

What we had done was pushed this socket over the existing nut. The clearance was 1mm or so. Then we mixed araldite (not quick setting araldite but regular). Applied a thin layer of the same on the inside of the socket. Allowed it to dry overnight (almost 14 hrs). Then used the handle (I used the long rod that we get with the jack) and one twist and the nut came off.

Araldite has a very high shear strength which allowed us to do this easily. It is safer than welding, hammering etc. Instead of using a socket you can use a nut as well which fits on top of the existing nut.

This is undoubtedly the best and safest solution. Better than welding. Only care to be taken is - Araldite should not reach the bolt stud.

had the nut not being recessed pipe wrench could have worked but in this case that is not possible.

[pganapathy]

Originally Posted by quadra

I agree, dont want to get into damaged alloy mode.

Thanks. Will post the final solution for sure.

These are stock bolts and i guess over a period of time removal & refitment of those nuts caused the nuts edges to worn out. Why this one nut only? Lemme google the answer

Thanks.
But why this one nut only?

Thanks for the advice. This method looks harsh to me. Lets see

Thanks, will try em out.

Damaging the alloys really does not make sense so anything involving heat, welding or drilling in a recessed space is not a good idea because of the risk of damage. Only go with these options if there is absolutely no other choice.

Am guessing this one nut may have been tightened too much once or twice and in the process of removing it has suffered additional shear and so now is damaged. Also this nut may have been shaped slightly oddly at manufacture and hence it had less grip on the spanner and over time this has worn off.

Yes the method is harsh and if you are resorting to something like that then filling the spanner with wet sand or araldite and using it is defintely better.

We look forward to the resolution of this case and knowing how you managed. Photos too please if at all possible.

[AbhiJ]

Originally Posted by quadra

I agree, dont want to get into damaged alloy mode.

Before any welding / drilling / hammering, please try :

Originally Posted by AbhiJ

1. Get WD 40. Bathe the offending nut in it.
2. Get some M Seal. Apply on inner walls of the socket spanner. Now push the socket over the nut. The M seal should fill the space between the nut and socket. Let the M Seal Set.
Once the M Seal dries, try prying open the nut gently.

AND

Originally Posted by torquecurve

What we had done was pushed this socket over the existing nut. The clearance was 1mm or so. Then we mixed araldite (not quick setting araldite but regular). Applied a thin layer of the same on the inside of the socket. Allowed it to dry overnight (almost 14 hrs). Then used the handle (I used the long rod that we get with the jack) and one twist and the nut came off.