[RM2488]

Hello all,
I fixed one of the power windows in my Ikon by replacing the broken power window cable. I posted an instructable for the same, the link is:

Ford Ikon Power Window Cable Replacement

I'll post the pictures and text on Team-BHP if requested by the mods. I wasn't sure if I needed to, because this is a grey area- it is an external link (allowed by forum rules), but I am the author for the content (so I should upload).

[RM2488]

This is a copy-paste of my instructable at instructables! Say that ten times fast!

Ford Ikon Power Window Cable Replacement

I bought a used Ford Ikon Flair for a sweet price, but one of the power windows didn't work. After a bit of electrical snafu fixing, I got the motor to run, but no cookie- the cable on the regulator was broken.
A replacement cable was, of course, not available. A replacement from Ford would have me replace the entire regulator- motor et al, and set me back by roughly $120. A non-OEM part of questionable quality was $15, which I was not happy about. So I figured out my own way to fix a new cable, which only took me around an hour to fix, and cost me a dollar. This will only work for a broken cable, NOT a broken motor. The basic operation is simple, and can be found on Wikipedia.

Supplies you'll need:
Broken power window regulator (duh.).
Two bicycle brake cables. (The inner cable was the same grade- cost me around a dollar for two)
A cable clip + Rivet (You can come up with alternatives such as brazing)
Grease
Duct tape

Tools:
Pliers
A Phillips head screwdriver
A standard head screwdriver
Wire cutters
Hammer
Metal File
(Optional) A D-clamp\Friend to help you out

Lots of patience would also help.

Step 1:Removing the door trim




First, take out the fuse for the power window. I simply removed the key from the ignition lock as this disables the power windows, but this is arguably risky.

Tape the window to the door frame using duct tape. I did not include the pictures 'cause I used clear tape that didn't show up in the pictures. Taping it ensures the glass doesn't fall into the door once the regulator is removed.

Unscrew the arm-rest and the door lock trim. Two screws are behind a panel on the arm-rest that can simply be pulled off.

I chose to remove the switch since I had to replace it as well. You can simply disconnect it once you remove the arm-rest.

Once this is done, the door trim can simply be lifted out after pulling out the snap tabs.

[RM2488]

Step 2: Removing the regulator



Disconnect the motor. It is simply another press-tab-and pull type connector.

The bolts and the order in which they are to be removed are marked in the image.
The first two separate the regulator from the glass. The second two separate the regulator from the door frame. The last three will separate the motor and allow you to remove the regulator.

The regulator once removed should look like the one in the second picture. Remove the six marked screws.

[RM2488]

Step 3: Cable replacement 1



Remove the wheel by gently prying under it with a screwdriver.

The replacement cables have a ball end- hammer it and file it into shape so that it fits into the groove on the wheel (picture 3).

[RM2488]

Step 4: Cable replacement 2



The outer cable length is not VERY important. It should go from the motor to the top\bottom of the regulator channel when fixed to the door, allowing a little leeway.

First we attach the inner cable to the wheel, and fix the wheel on the motor. Loop it around the wheel twice (Else the cable will be too short.) The order is simple- cable on wheel, through the tensioner spring(and cover), outer cable, pulley and channel runner.

I used a clamp to keep the channel runner at one place when I measured the inner cable length. You need to mark the length of the inner cable when the tensioner springs are free, and when they're compressed. Mark both points. Do it for both the cables (upper and lower).

[RM2488]

Step 5: Cable replacement 3






Now you can detach the cables from the wheel to let you connect the free ends together. The point to attach them together is between the two marked points on each cable (free and tensioned).

Bend the cables and use the clip. Then hammer in the rivet and snip off the excess. The clip should fit into the runner.

Now all you have to do is attach the cable ends to the wheel again, loop it twice, and attach the cover. If you have connected the cables at the right place, there should be just enough tension to fix everything together perfectly. DONE!

[RM2488]

Step 6: Putting it all together


The regulator should look like the one in the picture. I used some grease on the regulator channel.

You can test it out by connecting the power connector to the motor, and the switch. If everything is okay, proceed with final assembly.

All you have to do is reverse steps two and one to fix it in the door, and you should be done!

[Jaggu]

This is an excellent DIY guide, and and excellent post. I remember Ford recalling this part for my iKON at its first service. This was about a decade back though

Thanks for sharing.

[RM2488]

Something about paying 4500 bucks just because of a broken cable didn't feel right. "Chaalu maal" regulators were 700 bucks. Not in MY car, at least not for an essential part.

I skipped over why I developed this particular technique. I tried it once before, with a single cable- but it was too short, needed the clip in the runner, and ALSO had to be brazed at the free end... after all that, the cable had slack. This way, there is no slack, and can be done without brazing. The only difficult part I suppose is ensuring that the inner cable does not kink, and that the ball ends seat well.

[searchingheaven]

Originally Posted by RM2488

Something about paying 4500 bucks just because of a broken cable didn't feel right.

Is the bicycle cable holding up well enough? I asked my mechanic to do the same job today, and he says that those cables are very hard and might break. What do you say?

[RM2488]

Originally Posted by searchingheaven

Is the bicycle cable holding up well enough? I asked my mechanic to do the same job today, and he says that those cables are very hard and might break. What do you say?

Yep. 8 months and still going strong.