[saket77]

Please be very careful with such a situation. An engine seizure or thermal related damages will be very expensive to fix, particularly in a car like Civic.

Check the following:

1. If there is no leakage near the hoses, please check the heater cores. Coolant travels through it for giving out hot air from the heater assembly. There could be a leakage in the pipe somewhere. Check for signs of leakage near the passenger footwell area.

2. The only points of coolant loss can be leakage or getting into engine. So, check the exhaust color if its white. Also, double check oil color on the dipstick.

3. Hope you are using the correct ratio of coolant & water to whatever Honda recommends.

4. Check radiator fan if it is coming on and with force. Intermittent failure of the fan or working on lower than normal speed will heat up the engine.

5. Check with another radiator cap. They are important.

6. Since you have already checked thermostat, I am not stressing but still you need to be sure.

7. Be sure that the radiator does not have a blockage at any point.

8. Finally, check the water pump if all above comes negative. If that is negative too, compression test on the cylinders may point out if there is any leaks in the block where the coolant is being lost.

Check these pointers and do keep us posted. Wish you luck with the troubleshooting.

Regards,
Saket

[GTO]

99%, it's the cooling fan not activating when it should. Have that checked again.

[Jaggu]

Originally Posted by sudev

Every time radiator has shown coolant loss.

How much was the loss, only the reservoir went low or the radiator went dry?

All times this happened I had air-conditioning on and set to moderate 24 degree.

You can always check if the compressor is not malfunctioning and not putting heavy load.

Now apart from checking / replacing water pump what else could. I look at? Though there are no leakage marks around the pump area.

Definitely need to check, in older vehicle the pump can be a culprit with the fins wearing off or getting clogged and reduces the efficiency.

Any other apparent symptoms like power, FE drop or oil consumption that you notice?

[sandeepmohan]

I hope there were no instances in the life of the car where tap water was used as a mix for the coolant or as a general coolant/radiator top up. This can be catastrophic down the line.

If all of the above (Post #2) has been ruled out, I can only think of the water jackets around the engine that are blocked causing pressure build up in the cooling system. This will push the coolant out of the reservoir over flow pipe and the next thing you will see is a high coolant temperature alert. Fixing those blocked coolant passages requires lifting the head and some other bits.

The Civic has a dual fan setup. Check if both fans are functional.

[VTEC POWER]

I have a Honda City VTEC 2001 and 2 years ago the head gasket blew because the radiator fan was not turning on due to a blown fuse and i failed to notice it. Then sometime later last year the radiator fan went kaput, changed it and things were fine until now.

Currently the thing is that the car does not overheats when it is idle, i can see the fans starting automatically and stopping and the process continues. Even with the a/c on both the fans work continuously and temp needle is slightly below the mid mark.

When i drive the car on the open roads usually around 70-80+kph with the a/c on the needle rises gradually and so does my heartbeat. When I switch off the a/c, the needle gradually comes back to the normal position slightly below mid mark.

So I am not able to understand what could cause this, normal in idle state with a/c on, but gradually heats when cruising on the highway.

Any inputs to resolve this will be greatly appreciated.

VTEC POWERRRR!!

[VTEC POWER]

Hey Guys, need your expert comments on my above post please.

In the meanwhile let me add a few observations of my own. Even with the A/C on she runs fine without any drama at night, but during the day with A/C on the temperature rises.

Not sure what it could be, a faulty thermostat or the waterpump?? Or something else.

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by VTEC POWER

I have a Honda City VTEC 2001 and 2 years ago the head gasket blew because the radiator fan was not turning on due to a blown fuse and i failed to notice it. Then sometime later last year the radiator fan went kaput, changed it and things were fine until now.

Currently the thing is that the car does not overheats when it is idle, i can see the fans starting automatically and stopping and the process continues. Even with the a/c on both the fans work continuously and temp needle is slightly below the mid mark.

When i drive the car on the open roads usually around 70-80+kph with the a/c on the needle rises gradually and so does my heartbeat. When I switch off the a/c, the needle gradually comes back to the normal position slightly below mid mark.

So I am not able to understand what could cause this, normal in idle state with a/c on, but gradually heats when cruising on the highway.

Any inputs to resolve this will be greatly appreciated.

VTEC POWERRRR!!

This is normal. The car will heat up more with AC. On the highway the temperature will rise for some time, but slowly the air circulation at high speed should aid in cooling the fluid in the radiator.

What you have to ascertain, is how much the temperature needle can rise before the car over heats. Note that
. Cars are more efficient at higher temperatures, as long as the temperature is below the designed level.
. With proper coolant, the water temperature can rise to 125 degrees before boiling
. With only water and at high altitude the water will boil over at less than 90 degrees, and that is dangerous.

The only reason that I can see the temperature rising at higher speeds is that the radiator may be partially blocked due to leaves and dirt accumulating between the fins, or its internals are blocked. In the older designs there was quite a big gap between the fins, so clogging was not a big issue. With modern radiators the fins are spaced much closer; to increase the cooling efficiency; so the chances of clogging are much higher. Here is what you should do to check the radiator -
. Warm up the engine to normal temperature - a run of a few kilometers would do that
. Start the engine and switch the AC on.
. Note the temperature at idling.
. Now rev up the engine to say 5000 RPM. Keep it for a minute or so. Note the temperature rise.
. Keep the engine idling.
. Take a garden hose and with engine running hose the front of the radiators - hose both the main and AC radiators if they are separated. If they are one behind the other then hose the front one thoroughly. Note the temperature fall.

If the temperature rises abnormally while revving, and drops like a stone when hosed with water, then the cooling system is fine, but the radiator is not cooling appropriately. That can be either due to clogged fins, clogged tubes (water passage), or a smaller radiator than required.

If the temperature does not vary much between idling and revving, the air flow through the radiator is fine. As it over heats with AC, the radiator is not able to dissipate the extra heat of the AC radiator. So the internal tubes may be clooged, reducing the water flow (and cooling).

In any case, find a dedicated radiator specialist, and get the radiator checked. In case you have never serviced the radiator, time has come to open it up, dismantle (if possible) and unclog the tubes. If it cannot be repaired, then you have to get a new one.

[VTEC POWER]

Thank you sir for the guidance. It all makes sense now and I am now more inclined towards the radiator being clogged since the temperature is fine when i drive during night no matter how high are the rpm or speed with the ac on. It's only during day when temperature starts to rise and to answer your question it rises all the way to "H" if i don't turn off the ac.

Radiator service is certainly due i believe since it has been 4 years at least this hasn't been serviced. Thanks again!! I will perform these steps and update the outcome by this weekend. On a lighter note I may not need to use the ac at all looking at Delhi's weather right now!!

[hrish90]

Hello dear BHPian's,

I have a 12 year old Hyundai Accent GVS. Since the last week, my car suddenly started over heating when the A/C was switched on while the car was idle but the temperate would drop if i revved the car (i dont know why).
Moving on, this saturday i did a 60 KM run with the AC on and there was no heating at all, but suddenly after that the next morning the car started heating after running 2-3 KM without the AC.

My AC fan and the other fan, both of them are working. I have been using only water in the coolant reservoir which is also full right now. When the car is heated, there are bubbles in the coolant reservoir.

I'm assuming my radiator might have been clogged, but i had got it cleaned 10 months ago while putting the new top to the radiator. Also some of the clips which holds the radiator top are broken.

I have uploaded a photo so as to refer the clips i am talking about.



Waiting for your advice. Thanks

[hrish90]

UPDATE :

I just got the car checked today morning, turns out there was hardly in water in the radiator. The radiator guy filled it up and then there was a small leak from the water pump which caused the radiator to drain.

He quoted me 2-2.5k for the water pump of Hyundai Accent GVS (2002 Model).
900-1000 - Water Pump
1000-1500 - Labour and Spares.

Is this the accurate price ? The above prices are from a local mechanic from Mira Road (Mumbai).

Thanks

[VTEC POWER]

Mystery solved. It was a blocked radiator. Aroy Sir I did as you suggested and all things pointed to the radiator. So the search began where to get the work done and after talking to a couple of cab drivers (yes they can really be helpful like a T-BHP directory ) I zeroed out Gurunanak Radiators in Green park.

A trip to Dehradun is planned this weekend so the urgency to get it done was at its prime, remember rising temp needle directly proportional to my heart-rate so dragged myself out of the comfort of the a/c at home on a blistering afternoon yesterday and drove to the place. I was greeted by a gentleman with whom I have been in touch over the phone to get the directions. The place is actually inside a small alley right next to the Gurudwara. Finally the radiator was opened and though it wasn't damaged or too much dirty from the outside, but the lines were clogged from the mud like a cement..yeah that's what he said. And i could also see the same while he was cleaning the lines he had to apply considerable force to get the cleaning stick inside. I have attached the picture to show how bad it actually was. So after an hour of cleaning over and over it was finally done. He showed me the final result by putting in the water tank and the water flow was smooth between the pipes (for the lack of better word, referring to the rectangular vertical pipes between the fins) while earlier before cleaning it, there was flow from only 3 or 4 of them.

Voila problem solved. The radiator was fitted back and after a short ride the needle stayed below the half mark. I became so happy to finally see it stay there. I thanked her for being patient with me and withholding the torture I accidentally inflicted upon her when i didn't notice the needle go almost up to the top when the problem started. I love to keep her cool, yeah she is short tempered so cool is good. And if you think now i am acting all too crazy and sentimental about the car, then how would you explain an absolutely fine running machine to stop the moment my girlfriend sat in the car for the first time. She didn't start, the power steering belt broke, the motor stopped, the battery died and it took almost the whole day to fix her while my girlfriend had to shopping all alone. She just got jealous!!

Anyways that story and other like those in a different thread. For now I am outta here. And thanks for helping me solve this Aroy Sir!

[BeantownThinker]

Would like to narrate the overheating incident faced by me last night.

I was driving my 11 year old TATA Indica in peak bumper to bumper traffic at night. Had stopped at a traffic signal waiting for it to turn green, when suddenly saw the temperature gauge shoot up and vapour coming from under the hood. The temperature gauge reached the RED zone in not time. My first instinct was to shut down the car, which I did. And I was stuck in the middle of the road with vehicles all around me.

After a couple of silent curses to myself tried to figure out how to move the vehicle. Then this cab driver in front comes to my rescue with the most unlikeliest of suggestion.

He says "Your engine has overheated. Switch ON the AC and keep the engine going till you are able to move the car".

Now, all my instincts were screaming NO. So I asked the fellow "Will my engine not sieze?". He replies "No. Dont worry it will not. The load of the AC will keep the fan going and cool the engine down"

So going against all my instincts I turn on the AC and keep the engine going and drive till I am able to park at a safe place.

What was most surprising is that this trick actually worked and the temperature came down closer to the half-way mark. For a short distance the fan cooled the engine and took the load of the AC working as well.

Have towed the vehicle to the garage for repairs and waiting for the damage report.

How and why did this work when everywhere the recommendation is to shut down the engine and not drive any further?

[lancer_maniac]

My 2011 Cruze is facing starting problems from today.Check light come's every time when we start and it automatically kills the engine within 2 to 3 seconds in idle.i had faced loss of power,clatter sound and vibration while starting from the past one month.but i didn't give it a serious thought.But today after towing the car to A.S.S the mechanic after inspection told it might be the problem with the engine and it needs a overhaul

I am not convinced with his answer as the car has done only 31000 kms. And sometimes while starting only the tick sound comes as if the battery is dead.If its Engine issue wont the self motor crank at least.? sorry if thats a stupid question as im not aware of the technicalities especially when it comes to the engine.Also if its a engine problem wont the temperature gauge show the engine heating? mine is within the normal range always.
when the check light blinks the engine does lose power though and sometimes kill the engine.

Can somebody throw some light on this and if it is indeed a engine issue how much expense will it come to ?

Ps: Mine is a Manual LT Cruze

[SunnyBoi]

Originally Posted by BeantownThinker

He says "Your engine has overheated. Switch ON the AC and keep the engine going till you are able to move the car".
...
So going against all my instincts I turn on the AC and keep the engine going and drive till I am able to park at a safe place.

What was most surprising is that this trick actually worked and the temperature came down closer to the half-way mark. For a short distance the fan cooled the engine and took the load of the AC working as well.

Have towed the vehicle to the garage for repairs and waiting for the damage report.

How and why did this work when everywhere the recommendation is to shut down the engine and not drive any further?

Radiator fans in most cars run on two speeds; low and high. There are relays to switch fan speeds, these are controlled by the ECU mainly by using the inputs from thermostat.

In your case the relay operating high speed must have died, hence the fan would be stuck at running in low speed therefore causing the engine to overheat.

Whenever A/C is turned on, the radiator fan has to dissipate the heat from the engine as well as the A/C condenser. Since this is an additional head load, the ECU defaults the fan to run at high speed whenever the A/C is on.

Since you have reported the temperature went down when the A/C was turned on, the radiator fan/coolant system is working fine. The relay operating high speed fan OR the thermostat are the probably culprits.

[DReddy]

Posting this on behalf of my friend who has had a harrowing experience With Hyundai service.

My friend had purchased a Hyundai i20 diesel sportz Novemeber 2011 model - 27000 km on odo from a trusted friend who informed him beforehand about an accident involving a dog. The repair work was botched up by two different Hyundai authorised service centers at Kurnool and Anantapur immediately after the incident and finally after speaking with the Hyundai India service head at Delhi, the case was referred to Trident Hyundai Yeswantpur Bangalore. The owner had requested for complete engine replacement and also offered to bear the entire cost, instead it was claimed by the service center that as per company norms engine spares replacement and labour worth almost 2.8 lakh was done free of cost on the car(since it was their mistake) and the engine was now virtually new and completely trouble free for another 2 lakh km(Car was delivered after 3 months on 31st January 2013). The car was purchased by my friend in march 2015 and the latest service was done at lakshmi hyundai Vanasthalipuram branch hyderabad in June 2015 - odo 31200 km.

On 5th august 2015 he noticed that the A/C was emitting hot air while travelling on the Vijayawada-Hyderabad highway and immediately pulled over and called Lakshmi Hyundai service at Vanasthalipuram where he got it serviced 2 months earlier. The service advisor asked him to check for coolant level and it was found that the coolant tank was leaking and was almost empty. The service person asked him to fill the coolant tank with water and drive to the service center which was about 50 km away. My friend insisted on it being towed and the vehicle was towed to the service center. The problem was described initially that the coolant hose got deformed into an oval shape at the radiator inlet and hence the entire coolant leaked out. There was no sign of damage around the radiator or sump due to stone hitting etc. An initial estimate of Rs. 20000 was quoted for head gasket replacement with a disclaimer that they can only confirm after the engine was opened. The jobsheet dated 5-8-2015 is attached for reference. After 4 days the estimation was increased to Rs. 45000 after the engine was opened, yet no confirmation on the final cost of repairs. After continuous follow ups the estimation increased exponentially each time and finally ended up at Rs 1,89,957 as on today (Attached sheet).

The service manager at Lakshmi Hyundai Vanasthalipuram Mr. Gopal Reddy has stated that the Engine head was not replaced with a new one earlier(as claimed by Trident Hyundai, Bangalore) and has been reworked instead which is the root cause for this coolant leak problem and not due to the deformed hose as claimed earlier. My friend visted Trident Hyundai at bangalore and the area service manager Mr. Niranjan Babu accepts that rework was done on the engine head as per instructions from their service head at Delhi. My friend had to visit the Hyundai regional office at Somajiguda Hyderabad as they were not responding properly on the phone. The area manager Mr. Sunil very rudely tells my friend that the vehicle cannot be repaired for free of cost for its entire lifetime and has to pay the entire bill amount. The vehicle was purchased for 5.5 lakh by my friend and now he has to spend another 2 lakh on a car that is less than 4 years old. The car was always serviced at hyundai authorised service centers and this is clearly a failure of the hyundai service network.

Requesting the mods and BHPian Hyundai owners to highlight this case and if possible refer to higher ups in the hyundai management chain and also advise us on the next course of action to be taken.