[Catalyst_delhi]

You can get the HG and coolant system fixed easily

HG - 5000 rupees
Hoses etc - 3k
Coolant bottle and CAP - 1250 rupees

All this provided the engine did not overheat too much

[govigov]

I feel and understand your situation. After a similar scenario, I had a coolant mixed with engine oil and a bent piston due to water creating too much pressure inside the piston. Water mixed with engine oil will look like liquid rust / chocolate in colour. You may use the dip stick to examine. The reason was that engine was overheating causing cracks in the head gasket which is made of rubber sandwiched between metal plates. This crack caused water to enter to the crank case where it mixes with water.
Ford ASS was not an option, took it to an independent garage and fixed it, sold it soon after.

[ramzsys]

I find a coolant leak(it was one or two drops a few weeks back, now it is dripping continuously). The location is at the back side of the head where coolant goes to the heater core.

This is in the Ikon with the infamous divertor valve issue, so the flow to heater core is bypassed and now the coolant goes to the water pump directly.

The L bend from the head is sort of rusted, and spare is not available. So i am thinking whether i can close the outlet by a bolt.

This i am assuming it will work because until the thermostat opens, coolant will circulate via expansion tank.

The other option is to make an L bend by welding. Any opinions?

[TheG2]

Originally Posted by scorpion07

Lastly, the same steps as recounted in TBHP's tips below are also there in the Scorpio owner's manual - here goes again !

Hi Scorpion07,
Please could you post the Scorpio owner's manual for all the Scorpio owners here. Many (including me) have been on look out for it since ages. Do you also have the Scorpio Service Manual?

Thanks in advance.

Best,

[scorpion07]

Originally Posted by TheG2

Hi Scorpion07,
Please could you post the Scorpio owner's manual for all the Scorpio owners here. Many (including me) have been on look out for it since ages. Do you also have the Scorpio Service Manual?

Thanks in advance.

Best,

Hi TheG2 - no I don't have a soft copy - I was quoting my owner's manual which is the one I got the car with (as in, hard copy). Is that what you're looking for (soft copy) ?

Thanks
Scorpion07

[TheG2]

Originally Posted by scorpion07

Hi TheG2 - no I don't have a soft copy - I was quoting my owner's manual which is the one I got the car with (as in, hard copy). Is that what you're looking for (soft copy) ?

Thanks
Scorpion07

Dear Scorpion07,
Even that will do, if you can

Thank you,

[sandeepmohan]

Originally Posted by nitinhegde

I was having the engine overheating issue in my Ikon 1.3 due to coolant leakage

I feel that ignorance on your part has caused a lot of damage to the car and quite possibly your wallet. If the temperature gauge was not functional, you should have attended to it right away and not base engine running status on the high speed fan spinning up. It also looks like you did not bother to pop the hood to even check for coolant. These are simple checks you can carry out on your own.

Engine stalling is a clear sign of seizing as a result of over heating. I will not force crank the car by over cranking and push starting. Good luck with your bills at Ford.

[su1978]

Need an opinion on if the car stalls due to overheating when the Radiator fan is not functioning, is there an option wherein we can connect the two wires of fan directly to the battery and keep one end of wire with us, thereby creating a manual switch. At a time interval, say 5 mins, we connect the wires manually sitting inside the car and the fan starts running. Will this technique work till the time car reaches service centre.

[mayankk]

Originally Posted by su1978

Need an opinion on if the car stalls due to overheating when the Radiator fan is not functioning, is there an option wherein we can connect the two wires of fan directly to the battery and keep one end of wire with us, thereby creating a manual switch. At a time interval, say 5 mins, we connect the wires manually sitting inside the car and the fan starts running. Will this technique work till the time car reaches service centre.

Yes, you can do that.
In fords, its easier. Just remove the coolant temp sensor, and the fan stays on throughout. I am sure its a similarly easy operation.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by su1978

Need an opinion on if the car stalls due to overheating when the Radiator fan is not functioning, is there an option wherein we can connect the two wires of fan directly to the battery and keep one end of wire with us, thereby creating a manual switch. At a time interval, say 5 mins, we connect the wires manually sitting inside the car and the fan starts running. Will this technique work till the time car reaches service centre.

If an engine actually stalls due to overheating you have a very big problem on your hands and most certain extensive engine damage already.

But if not and you just noticed the temperature going up and it is due to the electric fan not kicking in, your solution will work fine. Depending on where the fault is, it could be a very easy fix. Ie bypass the faulty temp sensor.

I would just hard wired it and don't worry about it. Just let it run permanently until you get somewhere where it can be fixed. You don't won't to mess with loose wires.

Jeroen

[Aroy]

Originally Posted by su1978

Need an opinion on if the car stalls due to overheating when the Radiator fan is not functioning, is there an option wherein we can connect the two wires of fan directly to the battery and keep one end of wire with us, thereby creating a manual switch. At a time interval, say 5 mins, we connect the wires manually sitting inside the car and the fan starts running. Will this technique work till the time car reaches service centre.

If the engine stalls due to over heating, yes you have a big problem, unless the ECU shut it down. The best you can do is to wait for the engine to cool down, say 30 to 45 minutes at our temperatures. In the mean while connect the wires from the fan directly to the battery and see if it works. If fan is OK, start the engine when it cooled down.

In hot weather let the fan work full time, in very cold weather the engine rarely over heats without fan. In temperate climate (10 - 20 degrees), you may have to switch the fan off every 10 minutes.

[hitman1980]

Dear friends,

I have this Chevrolet Beat LS 2010 model, purchased a month back from pre-owned car dealer.

The car ran perfectly for 3 weeks with no issues. But 4th week onwards the 'Oil Pressure Warning' came up. I took the car at their workshop as I opted for 1 year comprehensive warranty. Upon investigation they couldn't find anything unusual, as the engine oil level was at perfect level. So they told me that it could be switch problem or broken wire. Since they didn't have full workshop at this place, hence told me to take the car at their main workshop in south-central mumbai for furthur scanning on the issue.

I asked them if it is safe to drive the car, since their main workshop is like 32kms from my place. I was given green signal, and was assured there is no major issue with the car other than some switch problem.

So I drove the car yesterday morning towards their main workshop, and my ordeal started. The car ran perfectly for about 20 kms with AC on. After that the following sequence of things happened:

1) After 20kms drive, the AC started giving problem. It stopped giving cool air. This happened 3-4 times during the next 8 kms drive. Other than that the car was running fine.

2) After 28kms drive, I was just 3 kms away from the workshop waiting at the red light. Suddenly I started hearing this 'Tick Tick' sound coming from the car from when I pressed on the accelerator. It was probably from the engine I guess. The sound went away as soon as I left the signal. The AC by that time stopped working totally ... only the normal air was coming out of vent. I suspected something is going wrong with the car. But as I was few kms away from the workshop I kept driving as the 'Tick Tick' sound came along occasionally.

3) Finally I covered the remaining few kms, but when I reached the opposite side of the road where workshop was situated ... my CAR broke down. The engine won't start anymore. It was heavy traffic, but luckily the workshop was just on the other side of the road.

4) I went to the workshop in hurry, and the mechanic came along with me. He immediately noticed the 'Car Overheating' indicator ON.
Finally, he opened the bonnet and waited for 10-15 mins for the car to cool down. Then he checked the coolant reservoir which was found empty. He immediately bought a can of water, and filled it up slowly over next 10 mins ... as the hot steam and bubbles were coming out.

5) Finally after putting in the water, he started the car. The engine started up in one go and then he drove the car into the workshop. I left car at the workshop and came back home.

I have few questions in mind:

1) Did I done something seriously wrong with engine ? Because I drove about 3 kms with that sound coming occasionally while accelerating. Does that 'TICK TICK' sound came from engine only ? If so, then why the engine makes this sound on over-heating even though the oil level was checked to be at perfect level ?

2) Any idea on 'Oil pressure Indicator' ? What can be the other possible causes if the oil level is found satisfactory ?

3) How come the Coolant Reservoir went dry as it was checked to be at perfect level a week back by their other workshop ?

4) Does AC cease to work if the car engine gets over-heated ?


I haven't heard back from the workshop yet, will check with them tomorrow.

Thanks
Bob

[extreme_torque]

You may have damaged the engine by driving while it was overheating. Keep your fingers crossed.

[a4anurag]

The indicators in the instrumentation console are NEVER to be taken lightly and never should be worsened by driving around with them ON. You should have stopped driving and called for a tow rich or some such thing.

What was the Temperature Gauge reading when you were driving around from the time the first warning light that came up?

Originally Posted by hitman1980

I have few questions in mind:

1) Did I done something seriously wrong with engine ? Because I drove about 3 kms with that sound coming occasionally while accelerating. Does that 'TICK TICK' sound came from engine only ? If so, then why the engine makes this sound on over-heating even though the oil level was checked to be at perfect level ?

2) Any idea on 'Oil pressure Indicator' ? What can be the other possible causes if the oil level is found satisfactory ?

3) How come the Coolant Reservoir went dry as it was checked to be at perfect level a week back by their other workshop ?

4) Does AC cease to work if the car engine gets over-heated ?

1. It's got something to do with the cooling system that was running dry. Engine oil is to lubricate the moving parts and not cool the engine. That job is done by the coolant such was not there in your car.

2. The engine oil pump is not getting enough pressure I guess and not circulation the oil properly.

3. Any leaks on ground where you Park or did you notice any liquid while driving around through you ORVN/IRVM? Check the engine oil once and see if there is any mix of coolant in it.

4. There could be a cut-off system by the ECU when there is an overheating issue happening. Hence no A/C.

Anurag.

[saket77]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Engine oil is to lubricate the moving parts and not cool the engine. That job is done by the coolant such was not there in your car.

AFAIK, engine oil also 'helps' in keeping the engine cool by flowing the heat away. OF course, it is primarily job of the coolant system, but I think it is aided by engine oil too. Other knowledgeable members may also please comment on it.