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-   -   Engine Decarbonising - Demystified (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/133710-engine-decarbonising-demystified-6.html)

Car has more vibrations in cabin. When it starts after a halt, for a couple of minutes, the sound is a bit rough. And the pickup has been dropped a bit.

Try a fuel system cleaner like System-D for a couple of tankfuls. Use a reliable pump to top up.

Check the condition of your air filter and diesel filter.

Take the car out for a 200-300-km drive where the engine can constantly do 2000 rpm or more.

Change the engine oil again immediately after the long run.

Ok, but I ended up buying OWS Flush And Engine Treatment. I want to know, Flush is "added" into the engine before changing the oil?

And Treatment is added to the new oil?

Take a look at the video...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=blMOUzzcCbg

...and before you start the flush process, here's a warning.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t7bfOffHFWw

A decarb job was done on my Swift at 45 thousand km when I failed to notice him mention it on the job card. While taking delivery of the car I noticed my car was nosier, had more vibrations and the power delivery was pathetic. Obviously the decarb had cleaned out all carbon which was making a good seal in the entire system, it took me 5 to 7 thousand kilometers of driving to get the engine back to how it was before.

I would never recommend anyone do a decarb, flush or any kind of injector vinjector cleaning. Regular oil change, air filter cleaning every few thousand kilometers and an italian tune up from time to time and you are good to go almost forever without touching anything.

Now the car is at 93 thousand its got the same turbo kick as it had when I had got it new from the showroom.

I used Pidilite Engine FLush and Treatment. It has proven to be a great a product. I flushed the engine at 60k KM in my fortuner. The engine is much more smoother and silent now. Dont seem to find any difference in pickup or else.

Rest much more silent cabin and refined engine.

Any idea on how to tackle the carbon build up caused by the EGR valve on the intake manifold?

AFAIK th EGR valve can get choked with carbon build-up (and malfunction), but is not a causative agent for any major carbon build-up inside the intake manifold.

A layer of soot on the intake manifold is not going to do any harm.

The EGR valve needs to be physically opened up and cleaned with any carbon solvent (e.g. kerosene, petrol) if it malfunctions, or the unit would need to be replaced.

I got my Punto petrol serviced a few weeks back, and I was overseeing the whole process at the ASS. When they removed the air filter box to change the air filter, the throttle body became visible. I could see the butterfly flap, and there was just may be, few tens of microns of soot uniformly deposited on the inner walls of the throttle body as well as on the butterfly. I could still make out the metallic tinge of the mechanism.

The mechanic was minding his own business till I started "feeling" the soot on my fingertips. He immediately called the SA, who started suggesting a engine de-carb cum throttle body clean using a 3M throttle plate cleaner spray! He would use half a can costing 350 and charge me a cool 1100/-.

<He would spray it on the intake, while free revving the car for 3 minutes and bingo: Saar...clean as your ear! :uncontrol>

In retrospect, can I leave it as it is? I mean there is absolutely no loss of power or acceleration and the "empty" volume within the throttle body NOT covered with soot is a lot to pass air for the combustion, I felt.

Yes, of course.

If it ain't broke, don't fix it! :)

Given the quality of diesel we get in the country, that layer should be back in no time. I don't think it is necessary till there is a slight drop in power.

Yet another time when team bhp saved me. I type this as I sit at Safdarjung Hyundai Gurgaon. Brought in my Verna AT CRDI for a 30k service and the SA wrote engine decarbonisation for a cool 1500/-. I immediately pulled out the service manual and asked him to show me where it was recommended. The answer - Sir woh to dhoondna padega. I said I have all the time and asked him to show me, which he couldn't. I told him that I'd already read the manual and it wasn't recommended and he then sheepishly removed it while I searched team BHP. I wish I had clicked a picture of the gentleman. You drop your guard for even 1 minute and this is what they do. Shame on you Hyundai.:Frustrati

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KFtp_jmLF3k

Hello fellow Bhpians,
I found this video of engine decarbonising using nothing but tap water. Yes! TAP WATER.
I also checked out more videos that had proof for the process showing positive results. Its basically steam cleaning the top of the pistons by allowing a mist of water through the air intake. Do check it out and share your valuable inputs.

Has been mentioned earlier in the first post itself...
And if you think the process in the video above did really remove carbon from the combustion chamber, where did it go? Did you see black stuff dripping out of the tailpipe?

Not sure if a decarb is really needed these days. considering the modern technologies of our cars and engines.
I have a 2007 model of Maruti Swift diesel(VDI). It's done 1,60,000 Kms without any decarb/flush etc. and still performs like an absolute dream. The power delivery is smooth and the fuel efficiency is respectable as well.
The body surely has taken a few hits and has aged over time, but the engine still is absolutely fine.

I also had a Bajaj Pulsar 150 (2003) model. Used it for almost 70,000 kms without any decarb/flush etc. The bike gave me top-notch performance till the end. I sold it in 2012.

The thing is, once a service personnel opens your engine, it can never be put back to the original configuration which was set during the assembly.
Why try to fix something which ain't broke. Prefer not to go for a decarb unless that's the only option left to solve a major issue.