[Mpower]

Any competent mechanic can do it but go to someone who has done it before. (because its not something commonly done). Do some research to see which brand offers best VFM

Having said that, keep in mind its is optional. If you are 100% confident that the pump is good, then its not necessary

There are lots of mechanics in the NCR area who modify Gypsies for rallying but not sure about PB

[Sutripta]

Originally Posted by Mpower

If you are 100% confident that the pump is good, then its not necessary

Behaviour of the Low oil pressure telltale, as described by the OP, says everything is not OK. (Though it is unlikely to be oil pump related, it would be a good idea to fit a pressure gauge, even if temporarily, for diagnostic purposes. My guess is worn/ loose main bearings.)

Regards
Sutripta

[Mpower]

Yes I get that feeling too Surtipta. My recommendations were for the long term... after engine was fully fixed

Originally Posted by rishirich27

y car had a oil pump failure and its crank was repaired (to .50 begen bearing).

Describe how the crank was repaired? Did they turn it in a lathe? If the bearing suraface is badly scored, it may be beyond repair & that is why new bearing shells are not solving the noise/vibe problem

(to .50 begen bearing)

Begen? What is this? Stock size?

Firstly the knocking sound on idle was more prominent now(i think this was the crank sound like tak-tak-tak), secondly the engine oil red light instrument panel used show up for like 2 sec and then go away, this used happen all the time and more when i used to push the engine hard and thirdly when i went through gears on full throttle i never felt the rev cut.

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by Mpower

Begen? What is this? Stock size?

I think OP or his mechanic means 'big-end'.

[Sutripta]

Originally Posted by Mpower

Did they turn it in a lathe?

Ground actually, not turned. On a specialised machine which is a variation of a cylindrical grinder, rather than a lathe.

50 - It's either 0.050 inch or 0.5 mm. Don't know which one. But if inches, it is beyond acceptable service limits, and the bearings used were most probably local (poor quality) make, because OE (MGP) parts not available. (Can someone check with a parts catalogue?)

Things normally don't go this wrong in crank grinding. Fault began with, and lies somewhere else.

Regards
Sutripta

[Mpower]

Sorry my bad. I shoud've known. Centerless grinders are used by OEMs but how well equipped are the local shops?

But if they are grinding to fix the scoring, then they have to use oversized bearing shells to compensate for the reduced ID from metal removal ??

[mohitk1993]

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

Err... Mohit, can you kindly list the names of a few cars where a gyroscope can be found? I've personally never seen one in any car.

Oops!! I meant governor, not gyroscope. Had just read an article on gyroscopes before I typing out that post and ended up writing that.
Sorry !!

Regarding the usage of governors, I just remember them being told about them by my professor. Will check with him again and get back to you.

[rishirich27]

Originally Posted by SS-Traveller

I think OP or his mechanic means 'big-end'.

Begen that how my mechanic pronounced it but i think he meant "big end" only.

Yes the crank was repaired on lathe coz he charged me Rs 800 for lathe and 980 for big end bearings.

After the failure i also got a new set of 16 (ngc or ncc brand) and replaced the lower 8 bearing so that i could drive back home but the noise remained the same and red oil light was on all the time.

Big end bearing used were .050

Is there some other bearing also other than big end on crank which needs replacement ??

[Mpower]

Originally Posted by rishirich27

Is there some other bearing also other than big end on crank which needs replacement ??

Yes there are....oil is the lifeblood of the engine & lubricates many parts. For ex. your bores may be damaged.

But I don't understand why you are getting oil light after putting in a new pump.

I think your best bet is a new short block (or half block) or look for an Esteem engine in the gujjli. You might want to take it to a more competent mechanic.

[SS-Traveller]

Originally Posted by Mpower

But I don't understand why you are getting oil light after putting in a new pump.

Some oil flow restriction/resistance would be required to maintain oil pressure. The oil pressure switch can flicker on when loss of pressure happens due to a number of reasons:
- Crankshaft main bearings out of round / wrong size
- Valve guides loose-fitting / incorrect size
- Badly fitted pump, not allowing it to work properly (e.g. oil pump oil seal damaged while installing)
- ... etc. etc. ...

The hotter the engine gets, the thinner the oil becomes, and the oil pressure light flickers more frequently. More the pressure drops, hotter the engine becomes. Catch-22 situation. New oil pump can't help if oil is being dumped out from the flow circuit somewhere instead of flowing under pressure.

Usually, at starting up after a rebuild, an oil pressure gauge is fitted where the oil pressure switch is installed. Maruti lists this as a special tool (09915-77310). The recommended oil pressure in a warmed-up engine at 3000 rpm is 3-4.2 kg/sq.cm. or 42.7-59.7 psi.

[Jaggu]

Have you checked the oil circuit of the engine and the switch end? If there is something dislodged or blocking this circuit it can cause issues including low pressure indication.

Gypsy has one of this simplest and robust engine. A reliable mul authorized workshop can get it back to ship shape with little effort.

[mustysekhon]

Going to MUL is your best bet - pick a service location where they service police gypsies or one where they handle Army or Defence Services vehicles for exception issues as most have in house workshops. Your best bet may still be to get half engine replacement or at worst a MUL overhaul with replacement of parts and they do carry a warranty.

[balenoed_]

Recently, my '04 model Suzuki Baleno, which had clocked about 1.4L Kms on the ODO, had some sort of noise coming out of the engine bay. I drove around for a few weeks ignoring the noise, assuming it is not a major issue. But after a while the noise aggravated, and started experiencing terrible lose of pick up in lower gears and I had to take it to a mechanic where I normally visit. It was diagnosed to be coming out of the crank shaft pulley area and he went ahead and opened up all the stuffs leading up to removing the timing belt cover and reaching to the pulley. To my shock, I was told that the crank shaft needs to be replaced. Along with comes other associated jobs, like removing the engine and opening up, pulling out the pistons, replacing bearings etc etc.

The issue is that the crank shaft key way worn out due to some unknown reason, which caused the pulley to slip which caused stress on the pulley and crank shaft bolt, and leading the crank shaft bolt head to break off resulting in a wobbling pulley. The wobbling pulley and it scrapping to the mechanical body was causing the noise, and it all totally misaligned the cam shaft sensor. This along with the slip in the pulley seems to have caused the loss of pick up.



Below a google image of how a good key way and key looks like


We are now in search of an aftermarket crank shaft, as the new ones are very expensive.

If anybody has any comments to share, welcome, as I wait for an expensive repair job

[Sutripta]

^^^
If you have access to a very good machine shop, then machine a keyway slot on the opposite (180 deg) side, and use that. Whether the crank belt drive pulley can just be turned around, or that too needs a new slot machined depends on a number of conditions.

The immediate response, that of welding/ building up metal in the worn out slot, and remachining, I would be very wary of.

Or you could remachine the slot to a larger width, and modify the key or the pulley.

Regards
Sutripta

[balenoed_]

Originally Posted by Sutripta

Or you could remachine the slot to a larger width, and modify the key or the pulley.

Regards
Sutripta

Thanks for the tips. I wished I could get these kind of repair done on that, but the mechanic whom I visited is very very reluctant on doing any repair and insisting he can only get the job done by replacing the crank. He is not willing to do repairs, saying that it is risky to do any repairs on it, and mentioning that it may not work as the accuracy is a main factor here. So it seems like I have to go with what he says as everything is now removed, and now looking for another mechanic will be another hassle.

He is arranging for an after market crank shaft which is supposed to be in a good condition, and send the engine block to lathe shop for fitting it up.