[honeybee]

Tonight I faced a weird issue. When nearing my hometown I noticed the blue high beam indicator lit up. I hurriedly tried to switch to low beam, only to find I was already on low beam.

After a few operations of the headlight stalk, I realized the high beams were now permanently on. Even when I parked outside my home and switched off the lights and engine, the dashboard indicator still glowed and the high beams stayed on.

I finally disconnected the bulb holders from their sockets, to prevent draining the battery. Both the headlight sockets are now disconnected, everything else is switched off except the blue high beam indicator in the dashboard is on.

Now, will I still have the battery juice in the morning?

When I was fiddling with the stalk I noticed at first when I pulled the stalk towards me the highbeam light went off and the highbeam was switched off. Then as I parked even this didn't work. So I tried pushing and pulling it a few times. At one point I could see vapours coming out of the steering column and a foul burning smell. Definitely trouble!

Post disconnecting the holders I also noticed that when I turn on the parking lights and then the headlights and then push the stalk away, to switch on the high beam, the battery, oil and brake lights come ip, as if the ignition is on (the key was in my pocket).

What could it be? A short?

[dass]

I am not an electrician by any means, but I guess along with disconnecting the headlights, you should also disconnect one of the battery terminals so that there is absolutely no power supply to the car and then call the TATA RSA for guidance. Again, I am not an electrician but this seems safe to do. Do not start and drive the car inthis condition.

[TorqMaster]

We faced a similar problem in our 4 year old Indigo. The same smoke, foul smell and a sound of spark inside the steering column. When we took it to TASS they changed the stalks and the mechanism and taped the wires which had got burnt due to the short circuit.

It is risky to have these issues encountered. Please contact the TASS immediately and ask them to change the mechanisms which control the lights and the ignition immediately.

[honeybee]

Right now the car is parked outside and hopefully nothing untoward should happen.

I did look under the front seat where the battery is located, but the terminals are much more securely fastened than in an ordinary car. So I had to drop the idea.

After dinner I called up the 24 hour helpline and was put through to a technician who asked me to check if the car was motorable, ie if the engine would start. Since it was close to midnight I told him I couldn't do it. Then he advised me to try it the morning. If the car is motorable I should take it to the nearest service centre, and otherwise I should again call the helpline and they will dispatch a technician.

So can only wait till morning.

By the way this issue allowed me to peak inside and find the headlight adjustment screws at the back of the assembly. You do need to unscrew the headlight assembly to make any adjustments. Weird. But it also means I shall be able to better aim my lights.

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by honeybee

I did look under the front seat where the battery is located, but the terminals are much more securely fastened than in an ordinary car. So I had to drop the idea.

it could have been safer if you could get the battery disconnected.

Originally Posted by honeybee

If the car is motorable I should take it to the nearest service centre, and otherwise I should again call the helpline and they will dispatch a technician.

Either you call for a technician or tie the vehicle to TASS. No way your driving the car in such risk. You can't predict what's in store for you.

Anurag.

[Motard_Blr]

The Nano's lights switch off if the ignition is switched off. So if they are still on even with the key removed, the relay must be stuck in the ON position. In such a case the easy way to stop the battery from being drained is to remove the fuse for the high beam.

The fuse box is located under the dashboard near the driver's knee. The box cover has a diagram to indicate the location, purpose and rating of each fuse. The box also contains the fuse puller - a plastic tweezer for this purpose. Just find the right one and pull it out.

If you can locate the relay box under the dashboard, then try the same with the relay too. Else just try a few sharp taps to the box to dislodge the stuck relay.

[honeybee]

Today morning the car had to be moved due to a under-the-road water pipe bursting. The highbeam indicator remained on all the time. But the car started normally. No vapours, no smoke, no smell.

Will now take it to the nearest service centre later in the day to get it identified.

[Jaggu]

Originally Posted by honeybee

Today morning the car had to be moved due to a under-the-road water pipe bursting. The highbeam indicator remained on all the time. But the car started normally. No vapours, no smoke, no smell. Will now take it to the nearest service centre later in the day to get it identified.

Take it to workshop ASAP. Last thing you want is a fire. The switches seem to be fried. Also if you are parking ensure you remove the negative terminal off the battery. Yes better to call the service guys home rather than driving it.

[parrys]

It might be a faulty headlamp relay. (If you have upgraded to higher output headlamp bulbs)
I have faced this issue, had to replace the relay. That's it.

[honeybee]

Originally Posted by parrys

It might be a faulty headlamp relay. (If you have upgraded to higher output headlamp bulbs)
I have faced this issue, had to replace the relay. That's it.

No relays. I am running 55-60 bulbs - Extreme Vision.

Even if it were a relay this is an odd behaviour. In my M800 I had the PMP relay and the mechanic had told me one set of beams would always work even if the other set malfunctioned. I.e. if the jigh beam malfunctioned, the low beam would still work. Unfortunately I also had an opportunity to test his argument.

And that still doesn't explain why the ignition ON behaviour is displayed when I push back the stalk, or the slight smoke and burning smell from the steering column.

[Jaggu]

It's pretty straight forward, your switch cluster is shorted! And line is shorting and allowing current to flow back. It's dangerous also!

[honeybee]

Finally called up Balaji Cars, Thane and requested them to arrange for pickup. They sent a crew in half an hour and after checking the problem drove the car back to the workshop.

Today after a few calls I finally got to know the problem had been resolved by replacing the combinaation switch free of charge - under warranty. They even dropped the car back to my office and the driver came with a feedback form. That was a superb experience.

The 24 hr helpline of Tata is an interesting experience. After I ghad called them thw second time, during Tuesday, they spent about five minutes verifying my car details and trying to locate Thane within Thane.

Finally the guy just asked me to take the car to the nearest workshop. If I had been in an emergency I would have blown my lid. But then I must say the response on Friday night when I first called the helpline was much better.

The switch is now back to the new hard feel.

Overall great job by Balaji Cars!

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by honeybee

Today after a few calls I finally got to know the problem had been resolved by replacing the combination switch free of charge - under warranty. They even dropped the car back to my office and the driver came with a feedback form. That was a superb experience.

Good to see TASS trying and improve their standards with customer service and overall feel. Hope they keep this consistent and throughout India.

Now to the car, the combination switch is the main headlamp and windscreen washer switchgear, right?! Hope the part is reliable and not to get the situation again.

Anurag.

[honeybee]

The CRM did assure me it wouldn't fail again. The comforting part is throughout this whole ordeal, apart from that one instance of smoke and burning smell, the car was perfectly normal and I coyld probably have lived with it for a few more days.

I was actually a bit scared taking it to office on Monday morning, but never had any untoward incident.

[honeybee]

The right side high beam didn't switch on for the last two nights, but the low beam worked. I thought the bulb needs to be replaced. So out I went and removed the headlight. On replacing the bulb the new bulb didn't come on too, so I put the original bulb back in, and started scratching my head foe the problem.

Well, just out of idleness I disconnected the headlight cluster from the main power cable and blew into the male/female connectors a couple of times. That did the trick! The bulb started working again!

Some pics:

The bulb is held down using a metal clamp. For all the vibrations the car gives you, the bulb remains rock-steady! It also makes it difficult to access the bulb, since you need a plus screwdriver to loosen the single scre and remove the clamp.


Notice the adjustment screws. I suspect you can't access them without removing the headlight.


The ExtremeVision and the regular halogen.


The rubber sleeve behind the bulb. It's fairly tight so no water seepage.



Note the rusted nut. The right one is in good condition.



Rusted nut. Again the right one seems to be good.