[zulfi hansi]

Originally Posted by Naman_Ferrari

Thanks for all the help guys!
I will visit the dealer and will talk to them about all that all of you have helped me with and get back to you soon.
Thanks again for all the help
Cheers!

Originally Posted by Akki_5

Did you get the problem fixed? My car (E280 CDI-W211) is having similar problems with power loss, jerking and juddering under hard acceleration (also goes into limp mode sometimes). There is also a whirring/humming sound constantly on the drive. An experienced indie has informed that pressure sensor could be malfunctioning. From MBworld, I could gather it to be the turbo actuator electronics malfunctioning. Merc ASS says it is pressure sensor and transmission oil pump. Don't know that the problem exactly is, but I hate that I'm not able to push this gem of a V6 motor.

Hi Guys, have you got your problems identified and solved? Looks like its my turn now. Even my e280 cdi was behaving the same way, juddering on sudden accelerator inputs and going into limp mode (considerable decrease in power), but no warring signals on the console at all. Every time it went in limp mode, after switching off the ignition and restarting the car, it would come back to normal power. Before I could seriously do some research Sundaram motors were conducting monsoon general checkup camp, after the car was 'treated' by them its all fine, not once it has gone in limp mode since 3-4 months after that.

I deliberately never told them about this problem. I have had problems in past in letting the MBASS guys know about my car problems (unless I have done through research on it and have a good idea of what it could be, problem and solution both), as they simply come up with an illogical and outrageously expensive 'solution', without the guarantee that the problem will be solved.

Please let us know the present statuses of your lovely E280 CDI W211s.

[SPIKE ARRESTOR]

Originally Posted by zulfi hansi

Even my e280 cdi was behaving the same way, juddering on sudden accelerator inputs and going into limp mode (considerable decrease in power), but no warring signals on the console at all.

If the car goes to limp home mode, 100% it will show up as Engine check lamp/MIL, provided, this phenomena continues for some seconds (12 Seconds in some Daimler cars, calibratable parameter, based on different criterions). How long does this last?

Spike

[zulfi hansi]

Originally Posted by SPIKE ARRESTOR

If the car goes to limp home mode, 100% it will show up as Engine check lamp/MIL, provided, this phenomena continues for some seconds (12 Seconds in some Daimler cars, calibratable parameter, based on different criterions). How long does this last?

Spike

Thank you for responding Spike.

The first time it happened, I was on a 450 kms trip driving alone (NH4). My driving style was spirited and it started just after about 150 kms after I started my journey. I was so paranoid that I kept going for another 250 kms, thinking that if I stop the car, it may not start again. Until I could not take the pathetic situation and hungry, when I stopped for lunch and restarted after a long prayer, it was normal! In that 250 kms, it struggled to touch 120 kms/hr, even 110 would reach after a long time.

After that it happened twice in the city, so I just stopped the car within 1-3 kms and restarted, again normal! So I presume, it continues until the ignition is switched off. None of the times, no engine check or any kind of warning showed up.

[SPIKE ARRESTOR]

Originally Posted by zulfi hansi

I was so paranoid that I kept going for another 250 kms, thinking that if I stop the car, it may not start again.

Most of the times, if it is not a mechanical failure, it should start.

After that it happened twice in the city, so I just stopped the car within 1-3 kms and restarted, again normal! So I presume, it continues until the ignition is switched off.

Correct, that shows, the control unit runs normally after a power off (reset). Is this somehow repeatable in a certain engine operating point, say mid to high loads?

None of the times, no engine check or any kind of warning showed up.

I'm interested to know how much time this happens, few seconds, 10 seconds, or several minutes? Are you running on recommended fuel?

Spike

[zulfi hansi]

Originally Posted by SPIKE ARRESTOR

Most of the times, if it is not a mechanical failure, it should start.



Correct, that shows, the control unit runs normally after a power off (reset). Is this somehow repeatable in a certain engine operating point, say mid to high loads?



I'm interested to know how much time this happens, few seconds, 10 seconds, or several minutes? Are you running on recommended fuel?

Spike

It happened only when I was driving aggressively, frequent breaking and sudden acceleration, I'd say high loads.

It continued for more than 200 kms / 3 hours first time until I stopped and switched off the ignition. Second and third time I was in city limits (outskirts) and I switched off the ignition within 1-3 kms (next traffic light to be precise). I did not have the courage to persist with that condition, especially since I knew that if the ignition is switched off it comes back to normal. So it does not stop on its own, once it loses power, it continues to be that way until engine is switched off. I am using regular diesel all the time. The pump guy accidentally filled the premium diesel only once recently, for the first time, otherwise I always use the regular diesel. At present it is back on regular diesel. Nothing changed during that time though. I never used any fuel additives / cleaners etc.

When the car had gone for general checkup camp, they must have reset or erased / rectified the codes, if any, I did not ask, they did not tell. But I presume that is their standard process every time the car has a job card raised.

[SPIKE ARRESTOR]

Originally Posted by zulfi hansi

When the car had gone for general checkup camp, they must have reset or erased / rectified the codes, if any, I did not ask, they did not tell. But I presume that is their standard process every time the car has a job card raised.

Too difficult to pinpoint the cause, as there are many reasons why a symptom like this could occur. I can only understand, that you are reaching an engine operating point where this anomaly is detected by the control unit, after that there is some sort of a 'limitation' active on the engine.

• In your case, your best bet would be to get your car checked at an authorized dealer with a Diagnostics tester. Bear in mind not to switch off the engine (if possible), or else you will lose it. There are error codes which do not light up the MIL but still get stored in the control unit's faults event storage system.
  
• Ask the dealership if they have a data logger, many manufacturers have data loggers which make a "freeze frame" - kind of screenshot of important parameters within the control unit. This helps in further analysis of the problem.
  
• Also google around if this particular model was somehow reported with this problem by many people - in that case, it might be a software.
  
• If all this does not work, tell them to reflash your ECU with the latest software matching your car.

As I said, diagnostics tester, until then, it might be only speculations and wild guesses...

Spike

[zulfi hansi]

Originally Posted by SPIKE ARRESTOR

As I said, diagnostics tester, until then, it might be only speculations and wild guesses...

Spike

I think they have done the diagnostics and rectified the problem. That is why it has not cropped up again. My driving style has not changed. I normally drive sedately most of the time, but also squeeze through gaps where I do accelerate a bit heavy. Sometimes I do shift between comfort and sport mode when required, but almost never go to manual gear changes. Traffic is too bad in Bangalore. This had happened only when the road was fairly open in the city outskirts where I could really take it to higher RPMs. But again after it is rectified I have driven similarly on these same roads, the problem did not come back.

I will certainly ask them to look into the error codes when it goes for service. And also the latest software if available for update.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by SPIKE ARRESTOR

Too difficult to pinpoint the cause, as there are many reasons why a symptom like this could occur. I can only understand, that you are reaching an engine operating point where this anomaly is detected by the control unit, after that there is some sort of a 'limitation' active on the engine.

• In your case, your best bet would be to get your car checked at an authorized dealer with a Diagnostics tester. Bear in mind not to switch off the engine (if possible), or else you will lose it. There are error codes which do not light up the MIL but still get stored in the control unit's faults event storage system.
  
• Ask the dealership if they have a data logger, many manufacturers have data loggers which make a "freeze frame" - kind of screenshot of important parameters within the control unit. This helps in further analysis of the problem.
  
• Also google around if this particular model was somehow reported with this problem by many people - in that case, it might be a software.
  
• If all this does not work, tell them to reflash your ECU with the latest software matching your car.

As I said, diagnostics tester, until then, it might be only speculations and wild guesses...

Spike

Agree, preferably, try and find somebody with a scanner/tester than can read Mercedes specific codes. The simpler one only read generic codes. And although that might get you the error, fact remains that these Mercedes have more specific then generic error codes.

The limp home mode can be triggered by all sorts of seemingly unrelated problems. A problem with the brake switch that provides input to the ECU is one that I have come across several cars. But as to SpikeArrestor point a Limp home / reduced power or something similar will always show up on your dashboard.

These sort of problems can be completely random and can be difficult to trouble shoot. However, many times errror codes are stored. And for instance the brake switch error gets stored on most systems.

If your car has an autobox then there are several things that could cause this behaviour as well. Again, best check by doing a proper OBD scan, before starting to swap out any parts.

As I have said on many other threads, it could be down to battery voltage and or dirty connectors, wires etc.

If you ever find yourself stranded along side of the road and the car won't start or remains in Limp Home Mode, the one thing you can do is to disconnect the battery for 30 seconds and reconnect again. Just turning the ignition off should not affect any/most error codes stored as far as I know.

But disconnecting and reconnecting the battery on most systems will do more or less a re-boot of the ECU. It will typically clear the erros, but also most/all data so that is lost, but at least it might get you home.

I just googled Mercedes E280 CDI Jerking and you are not the only one that has this problem. But many different reasons/suggestions as to what it can be.

Good luck, let us know what they find

Jeroen

[zulfi hansi]

Update: I got the transmission oil changed a couple of months back, after that the behavior of the gearbox has improved more than 50%, even the jerking has reduced considerably. But it still happens when I try spirited driving once in a while. And also when we start the car in the morning, it is not good to floor the pedal within first 1 km, it invariably jerks. Another change I have done in my driving is that now I drive only in sport mode, I am repenting why I did not do this from the day one. No change in FE.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by zulfi hansi

Update: I got the transmission oil changed a couple of months back, after that the behavior of the gearbox has improved more than 50%, even the jerking has reduced considerably. But it still happens when I try spirited driving once in a while. And also when we start the car in the morning, it is not good to floor the pedal within first 1 km, it invariably jerks. Another change I have done in my driving is that now I drive only in sport mode, I am repenting why I did not do this from the day one. No change in FE.

Good to hear things are improving.If just replacing the transmission oil made such an improvement it is likely that a proper flush would have made an even better improvement. Maybe something to bear in mind next time. Also, you need somebody that understands what a flush really means and how to go about it. It takes specialised equipement to do it properly,

One thing I learned from a specialist in auto transmission overhaul ( see http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/diy-do...ml#post4180547) is that it is a good idea to use the manual settings of your auto gearbox once a month or so. So put it into 1, 2, 3, etc and drive it sportily for 10-20 second in each gear. This will ensure that transmission oil circulates through all the different channels, valves etc. Making sure any little impurities get removed and are caught by the filter, rather then to stick to components.

Jeroen

[sr71brenden]

Looks like this thread hasn't seen any activity since 2018. Let me change that. Very similar issue like OPs. 2007 W211 OM642 V6 Diesel with jerking and shuddering between shifts and holding gears.

Took the car to MB yesterday and their diagnosis is that it's an intercooler leak with zero transmission or engine fault codes.

Was this intercooler related for anyone else? Thanks.

[V-16]

Hi guys. Long time. My W211 280 cdi is facing a similar issue. No jerks thankfully, just doesn’t accelerate hard. Takes off changes gears rather quickly and if accelerated slowly, takes its time to go there. No faults or messages showing on the dash. Plonk it into manual it happily shifts but in a limpish fashion. Possible the turbo pipe has come off as no faults showing up. Gonna throughly check it tomorrow and report. And yes…. For a short period when I was parking. When I put it into P and shifted again into D “HOLD”flashed on the Dash. Had to tap the pedal to get it to move ahead. After that time never happened again. What could HOLd mean??

[sr71brenden]

Originally Posted by V-16

“HOLD”flashed on the Dash. Had to tap the pedal to get it to move ahead. After that time never happened again. What could HOLd mean??

E280 CDI owner here too. HOLD is an amazing brake feature that when engaged lets the car stop at a light without having to press the parking brake, and then disengages automatically when the accelerator is hit. This short video explains and demos it well.

Brake Hold Demo

Update to my last post:
The issue with my car has been fixed now, and its performance has come back! The issue lay in an 'exhaust back pressor sensor' that costs around 9800 INR from Mercedes (I recommend going for the original). After it was replaced the cars jerkyness and weird shifting completely went away. Hope this helps!

[V-16]

Originally Posted by sr71brenden

E280 CDI owner here too. HOLD is an amazing brake feature that when engaged lets the car stop at a light without having to press the parking brake, and then disengages automatically when the accelerator is hit. This short video explains and demos it well.

Brake Hold Demo

Update to my last post:
The issue with my car has been fixed now, and its performance has come back! The issue lay in an 'exhaust back pressor sensor' that costs around 9800 INR from Mercedes (I recommend going for the original). After it was replaced the cars jerkyness and weird shifting completely went away. Hope this helps!

ndOH Wow, didn't know this exists and when it accidently did show up, didnt know how to re-activate this Hold feature in the W211. . Thanks for pointing it out. You live and learn every day.

[sr71brenden]

Originally Posted by V-16

ndOH Wow, didn't know this exists and when it accidently did show up, didnt know how to re-activate this Hold feature in the W211. . Thanks for pointing it out. You live and learn every day.

Haha sure no problem. I'm just happy to know that there are W211s on the road that are being cared for. Cheers!