Team-BHP - Low engine temperature - Engine isn't getting warm enough
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In my experience with the following cars that had analog meters:

Peugeot 309 GLD
Fiat Uno Diesel
Tata Indigo Diesel
Tata Indica Xeta Petrol

The temperature indicator always reaches the halfway mark in the meter. On cold days, this would take a longer time to reach, but ultimately reaches there. We did have a problem with the Xeta, when the needle seemed to be dead, but replacement of a part (Don't remember the exact part) cured the problem.

The current Logan Diesel that I own has a digital indicator with 8 bars. A few minutes after start 2 bars are indicated and after a few kms 4 bars are indicated and stay that way irrespective of the driving style. Ofcourse this is the southern part of the country where winter temperature stays in the upper 20's.

However the function of the coolant is to trap or reject the heat as the situation may be.

Quote:

Originally Posted by SnS_12 (Post 3830841)
Well, in my 2008 Indica Xeta petrol I have noticed that when I used to run the car without the air-condition the temperature gauge would reach the halfway mark and when I switch on the air-condition it would stay at quarter. Never really applied my mind why this used to happen as the car was running normally otherwise. But, now I would be interested to know if anyone else has faced this issue and the reason for the same? As, Jeroen said running below idle operating temperature would also damage engine internals. So now I don't know what was the ideal engine running temperature in my Indica, which by the way has been sold off now.

When you turn on the AC, the secondary fan turns on and lowers the temperature of the engine further. Happens on a lot of cars. No big deal. :thumbs up

Just to add, the cooling fans can be directly driven, usually by a V belt. The can be electrically driven, i.e. An electric motor. Or they can be driven with a belt but still have some sort of clutch mechanism. Either the clutch has a thermostatic mechanism that react to the temperature. Or it has a electromechanical clutch (eg some Mercedes) operated electrically via a thermostatic switch on the cooling system. Many different approaches for doing the same thing; cooling

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeroen (Post 3831993)
Just to add, the cooling fans can be directly driven, usually by a V belt. The can be electrically driven, i.e. An electric motor. Or they can be driven with a belt but still have some sort of clutch mechanism. Either the clutch has a thermostatic mechanism that react to the temperature. Or it has a electromechanical clutch (eg some Mercedes) operated electrically via a thermostatic switch on the cooling system. Many different approaches for doing the same thing; cooling

But generally speaking, transversely mounted engines usually only have electric cooling and most longitudinal engines tend to have a thermo-clutch system of sorts.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Viraat13 (Post 3832139)
But generally speaking, transversely mounted engines usually only have electric cooling and most longitudinal engines tend to have a thermo-clutch system of sorts.


I haven't really given that much thought, but certainly for the transversely mounted engines it makes sense to have an electric driven fan for all the obvious reasons. Not so sure about the thermostat clutch though. I really don't have the full view, just going by my own experiences what I have seen and worked on, but it would think probably be more often electrical driven rather then thermostat clutch. But then again I haven't kept count. The additional fans for additional cooling in case of AC tends to be always electrical driven, whic of course makes sense as it is in addition to everything already installed and this is just the easiest way I assume

Another little anorak fact on the thermostat clutches. You need to stock/store them in a specific position! If you put them flat for awhile they tend not to work! Comes in boxes labeled this side up, well at least the Mercedes one do.
Jeroen

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jeroen (Post 3832198)
I haven't really given that much thought, but certainly for the transversely mounted engines it makes sense to have an electric driven fan for all the obvious reasons. Not so sure about the thermostat clutch though. I really don't have the full view, just going by my own experiences what I have seen and worked on, but it would think probably be more often electrical driven rather then thermostat clutch. But then again I haven't kept count. The additional fans for additional cooling in case of AC tends to be always electrical driven, whic of course makes sense as it is in addition to everything already installed and this is just the easiest way I assume

Another little anorak fact on the thermostat clutches. You need to stock/store them in a specific position! If you put them flat for awhile they tend not to work! Comes in boxes labeled this side up, well at least the Mercedes one do.
Jeroen

The Mercedes ones have this silicone gel kind of thing (maybe all of them do). Maybe it flows to places it doesn't belong when it is stored funny. Probably would explain why I got a totally useless fan clutch for one of my W124s once! Always something to learn.

I had this problem in my old Ikon, the thermostat was stuck open. It was an easy fix if not for the plastic housing breaking. In my current Figo - as per OBD from new, the steady state temperature is 84 Celsius. This is post 10 minutes of driving regardless of a traffic jam, 45 Celsius ambient or winters. I have never seen it go past 86 Celsius and that is when the AC was working in the Delhi summers. I think modern cars are pretty good at regulating the temperature. The ikon used to run hotter at 92 celcius all the time.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Abhi_abarth (Post 3830001)
I have started feeling scared as my palio S10's temp gauge always stays within the 1/4 mark

I have observed that the temperature meter on the old Palio to be dynamic. If you are cruising down the highway, it drops to the levels in the image you have shared. In the city cycle, it keeps fluctuating.

I don't think you have a problem.

While on my way to work today on my Honda Accord which runs on CNG, I saw the needle continuously hovering near the high level mark. I stopped the car and there was water in the make up reservoir. I could also see the fan running and sufficient flow of air across the radiator. I kept going at sedate speeds and kept the rpm below 2000 to reach my destination. I checked again and saw that the hose at the top was hot and the hose at the bottom was cold. This was a sure sign of water not circulating. I took it to the FNG. I got him to totally flush the radiator. However still there was no difference. Found the cold pipe leading to the thermostat. The thermostat was opened and found to be in bad condition. The same was removed from the system. I can see the engine operating slightly lesser than the halfway mark. If my air-conditioner is off, the fan would not be running and the engine would be running at an acceptable temperature. However when the AC is on, the fan runs and brings the temperature down. Any ideas on where i can get the thermostat online.


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