[honeybee]

Except the flywheel.

I am no expert but please check with some TASC mechanics if there's a difference between the dual mass flywheel of the old and new Aria.

[PGA]

https://youtu.be/devo3kdSPQY

Iam linking a video on working of various parts of the clutch. It will help you in understanding and analysing what has gone wrong with the clutch of your car.

From the bill I can see that pressure plate has not been replaced and to me the problem seem to emanate from there.

But check of hydraulics is essential before we open the clutch assy. Any decent mechanic can to a reasonable level ascertain serviceability of master and slave cylinders. Also please pay a good attention to brake and clutch fluid level and quality when you check hydraulics.

Checking and replacing clutch assy normally doesn't need any car specific tools or expertise . It's a job within capability of an experienced mechanic so if visit to A.S.S is cumbersome I personally will take my chance with a local mech to do the job. Just hang on around and ensure that he keeps good care of cleanliness with hydraulics if tinkered with.

[bravo82in]

Originally Posted by PGA

I am linking a video on working of various parts of the clutch. It will help you in understanding and analyzing what has gone wrong with the clutch of your car.

Thank you for sharing this informative video.

I was able to trace a Tata service center near my place. It is an extension sales and service center of a Tata authorized dealer in another city.

The mechanics are not trained to handle Aria except routine service but on my request did bleed the clutch. Opened up a screw/nut and pushed the clutch couple of times. However this did not solve the issue. They are of the opinion that in all probability the clutch plate needs to be replaced. Next they have suggested opening up the gear box to inspect whats gone wrong. Before that the service center had placed an order for the clutch kit for Aria. It will take a couple of days for parts to be available. Till the time i will not be using the car.

[Kosfactor]

Hello Bravo, I read your post and in the previous clutch service a few things are missing. It's a good practice to replace the following during clutch overhaul - Clutch plate, Clutch cover, release bearing, slave cylinder, master cylinder, flywheel if it's got scorched. I think Aria has an external slave with a Clutch fork (I could be wrong). If the issue is with the slave cylinder, replacement is easy and cheap. If it's a concentric one that sits inside the bell housing, then the gearbox has to come down, for RWD layout vehicles this is an easy procedure.

Turbo diesel engine puts high load on clutch, considering your driver revved and slipped the clutch in 3rd gear, a good deal of damage is possible in the clutch assembly, an overhaul will ensure peace of mind.

[Rahul Rao]

Originally Posted by bravo82in

The Screen shot of the online version of bill is attached here
This probably means the entire assembly was replaced.
Total cost Rs 11700/-
Attachment 1904757

This shows that the Clutch and release bearing was replaced. the clutch cover and pressure plate may be sold as a set.
Now your issue is that the master and slave cylinder was not replaced, and that is where your issue lies, it may have been good then, but additional load of a new clutch cover would have damaged it, it in turn may have damaged the release bearing.
Just open up and check out, Rs 11700 is quiet reasonable for clutch.
My Terrano set me back by over 50K, but then a transverse layout means half the suspension and sub chassis also has to be dismantled.



Rahul

[bravo82in]

I got my Aria back from TASC. The issue was related to broken hinge of the gear box housing which holds the gear shift rod. It was repaired by welding and the clutch plate which was partially damaged/ worn out was replaced along with the pressure plate and the bearing. The car is running fine now.

[Tarrodie]

I replaced the clutch of my Toyota Etios a couple of months ago at Galaxy Toyota in Okhla. When I tested it, the gear slotting was not very smooth and I brought it to their notice. Some quick adjustment was done and it became better.

After two days of driving, I again felt that slotting some of the gears was a bit hard so I went there again and once again some adjustment was done inside and it felt better. The mechanic mumbled something about this is all the adjustment that can be done and not more, which I didn't fully understand.

It is about 2 months now, and all the while slotting into lower gears was never very smooth. It is getting worse now and it is difficult to slot the gear into 2nd from 4th and 3rd. It takes some effort to shift from a higher gear to 2nd or 1st gear. It takes a second or two more while I apply some force with my left hand and only then it slots into gear. I always make sure that I press the clutch all the way down, so it may not be a wrong driving style.

I know I can go to the workshop again and their "renowned" Toyota service will fix it, probably again by doing some quick adjustment after opening the bonnet.

My question is whether the problem is because the new clutch was not installed properly or some other major problem which they are hiding, and only doing quick adjustments when I tell them about it.

A new clutch should ideally mean a seamless, smooth slotting into all gears without any effort as I am experiencing. Am I missing something?

I was going to make my 3rd visit over the same issue this week, but if someone can help to figure out what it probably could be, then I can push the workshop accordingly to fix the issue once and for all.

PS Edit: Just to add that I had replaced the clutch only because the car was rarely used earlier and the clutch had become very hard. I am a very careful driver so clutch problems may not be due to my driving habits. I also don't drive resting my foot on the clutch pedal in slow traffic!

[Reinhard]

Originally Posted by Tarrodie

A new clutch should ideally mean a seamless, smooth slotting into all gears without any effort as I am experiencing. Am I missing something?

Specific gears not slotting properly doesn't seem like a clutch issue to me at first glance. Can you get the linkage (or cable) for gear selector checked & tuned properly? I think it needs to be investigated. (Sorry I'm not aware if the Etios uses a cable type or linkage type selector assembly.)

[Tarrodie]

Originally Posted by Reinhard

Specific gears not slotting properly doesn't seem like a clutch issue to me at first glance. Can you get the linkage (or cable) for gear selector checked & tuned properly? I think it needs to be investigated. (Sorry I'm not aware if the Etios uses a cable type or linkage type selector assembly.)

Before clutch replacement, it used to be fine. Hence I linked it to the new clutch. Thanks for the suggestion, I will get the linkage or cable checked this week. I don't mind spending more but somehow the workshop folks don't spell it out clearly and always do some quick adjustment and seem to be in a hurry to see me off.

[Mortis]

Are you sure they replaced the entire clutch set or only flywheel ? In that case it could be one of the fins in the pressure plate is stiff or bent

[Tarrodie]

Originally Posted by Mortis

Are you sure they replaced the entire clutch set or only flywheel ? In that case it could be one of the fins in the pressure plate is stiff or bent

The entire clutch set is new. It's a 2011 model and had hardly been used for many years by a relative who mostly stayed abroad. I got it last year and at the time the clutch was very hard with knocking issues and other symptoms of a bad clutch. The relative I suspect used to put the foot on the clutch all the time while driving.

The new clutch is good now except for this issue of slight tightness when shifting to lower gears, especially the 2nd gear. This happens obviously only while running, in a standing car the gear stick moves like slicing through butter. It could be a problem that doesn't have to do with the clutch.

I showed it to a good local mechanic who I know. He is also listed on this forum with excellent feedback. He said not to worry and the slight tightness in a running car is to be expected. I think he must have also meant the age of the car, although he did not say it.

I know he may have sort of dismissed it because he is usually busy and mainly looks for 'big work'. In any case, it's only a small irritant and I am happy that such an old car runs exceptionally well. Hence I've decided to leave it as it is for now, and maybe I'll bring it up during the next service which would be next year.

Thanks for all the help!

[Kosfactor]

Originally Posted by Tarrodie

The new clutch is good now except for this issue of slight tightness when shifting to lower gears, especially the 2nd gear. This happens obviously only while running, in a standing car the gear stick moves like slicing through butter. It could be a problem that doesn't have to do with the clutch.
!

A new clutch usually makes slotting gears a bit notchy for about 1000kms, try removing the carpet , it maybe preventing the pedal from moving all the way down.

[Tarrodie]

Originally Posted by Kosfactor

A new clutch usually makes slotting gears a bit notchy for about 1000kms, try removing the carpet , it maybe preventing the pedal from moving all the way down.

Not a carpet issue because there is no extra carpet and the stock one is wafer-thin. I always press the clutch right till the end. I'm sure it will improve over time, or will get it fixed after some time.

[sara.ramli]

My Figo (Diesel-2012-PreFaceLift-RaceChipped) has recently developed the clutch chatter issue. The whole vehicle kind of shudders in both 1st and reverse gears, when you try to engage them (around the clutch biting point) with the car being stationary. The rest of the gears shifts are fine. The car has clocked 75K on the odo and is still running on the OEM clutch with no overhaul/repair work carried out so far.

Showed it to 2 different FNGs and they have different observations, post TDs:

• One of them thinks the clutch is fine and still has life left, but its the flywheel that has been damaged. The suggestion is to replace the entire assembly including the flywheel, clutch plate, pressure plate, release bearing and slave cylinder.
• The other thinks it's the clutch that has worn out and requires replacement. The suggestion is to resurface the flywheel, replace the clutch plate, pressure plate and release bearing

While neither of them have taken at a look at the worn out parts themselves, here are a few questions that I am seeking answers for, from the experts here:

1. Any simple driving/observation tests to ascertain that the flywheel has been damaged?
2. Can a dual mass flywheel be resurfaced? Or can only be replaced?
3. Is it fine to use a single mass flywheel in lieu of the DMF, for longevity/cost concerns?
4. Approximate cost estimate for these parts, if anybody has done similar replacements

Thanks in advance.

[Catalyst_delhi]

Originally Posted by sara.ramli

My Figo (Diesel-2012-PreFaceLift-RaceChipped) has recently developed the clutch chatter issue. The whole vehicle kind of shudders in both 1st and reverse gears, w

Thanks in advance.

What you can try doing - Start on 2nd gear only for the next 2 weeks, and see if this shudder fixes itself. It usually does. I have seen this in many Diesel Figos and usually driving off in 2nd gear is going to resurface the flywheel and clutch plate again. Replacing the clutch is not that costly as well, usually around the 11 to 13k mark. Having said that the stock clutch lasts 100K usually on stock configuration. You have a remap which might reduce service life marginally. To check if clutch is ok, 1. engage parking brake 2. release 4th gear slowly 3. IF you feel that the engine does not die immediately then clutch is definitely gone another check is to be on a rolling speed of 30 kmph in 5th gear, and floor the pedal. If you do not see a corresponding increase in speed w.r.t rpms the clutch system is out of whack.