[GTO]

Originally Posted by jinojohnt

The mechanic removed the oil filter and put a new oil filter first.

The way that I'd do it : Drain the oil first, then replace the oil filter and finally fill in the fresh engine oil.

[jinojohnt]

But the mechanic says that the Engine Oil would flow to the Oil Filter only when the engine is running, so it's ok even if you replace the Oil Filter first and then change the oil. Any views on this?

[Optimus7]

Last month, I gave my fiesta tdci for service. Oil and filter change was done. When I checked the oil after 100 kms, it was black but was smooth.

The oil level in the dipstick was slightly above maximum. The problem since then is, I have a small lemon size oil leak on the floor everyday. And I can see there are a few areas where the oil seems to seep out. I checked the oil level, and the dipstick showed, it to be slightly below the max level (slightly above 4 litres).

Is this a serious issue and should I take it to the FASS? Or was this caused due to overfilling of the oil during service. The car drives good as before. I will watch it for a couple of weeks and then check the oil level again.

[drpullockaran]

Reasons for oil going black within 1000km in diesel engines.
1) Oil was not drained when the engine was hot allowing for the black dark cooled sludge to settle to the bottom which did not drain out during your last oil change.
2) Oil was was not changed; to cheat you which is rare these days.
3) A new cheating method is to drain 3/4th the engine oil and then fill up once again. Usually done where synthetics are prescribed.
4) Oil filter not changed.
5) Excessive blow bye due to weak compression and oil scraper rings.

I have mentioned it elsewhere too in another thread.
When my Junkindica's oil is changed in front of me it stays clear for about 600 to 1000km but when its done in my absence it changes color in about 200 to 300km or even less.

At the last oil change for my Cruze the oil changed colour in 800km or less while usually it changes colour after about 2000km. I changed oil today for the Cruze along with oil filter when the engine was hot as hell; I shall report back when it changes colour this time. This time I was with him when he had his oil change and drained the oil for a good five minutes before putting fresh oil and filter. For the GTX I used to do the oil changes myself and used to drain it over night. Oil used was Quartz 7000 by TOTAL and the changes were done every 5000km. The colour used to remain nearly the same till the next oil change but that was petrol and most petrols have oils that rarely change colour in 5000km.

[scopriobharath]

Everytime during an oil change, Use a Engine Oil "Flush". 3M recommend using their flush for every oil change. With this, The existing oil would lose its viscocity and every last drop of oil will drain out like water. The Works has to fill in complete level of oil so there is minimal chance of getting cheated.

[Raccoon]

^^^I wouldn't use flushes. If you are regular with oil changes you don't need such things. Even if you don't, I'm not sure how safe they are. Whats more 3M is not an Oil company...

[DRIV3R]

Originally Posted by scopriobharath

Everytime during an oil change, Use a Engine Oil "Flush". 3M recommend using their flush for every oil change. With this, The existing oil would lose its viscocity and every last drop of oil will drain out like water. The Works has to fill in complete level of oil so there is minimal chance of getting cheated.

What if the remaining traces of this flush makes the fresh oil too to lose some of it's viscosity?

[rajeev k]

Originally Posted by DRIV3R

What if the remaining traces of this flush makes the fresh oil too to lose some of it's viscosity?

Yes it can happen if not fully drained out. A method to overcome this is to again flush with oneltr of fresh engine oil which would help in clearing the traces of flushing oil as well as sludge.

[scopriobharath]

Originally Posted by DRIV3R

What if the remaining traces of this flush makes the fresh oil too to lose some of it's viscosity?

In General - Flush Manufacturers suggest using one bottle completely for an oil change. So ideally the volume of oil is calculated and the flush is designed based on that calculation.

Even if some Residual Flush is left (I say there would be marginal flush if at all), the new oil would overcome the flush's power, meaning the remaining residual flush would not be able to remove the viscosity of new oil. At the very least, you might have to top up 5 ml more.

Taking a simple example - Assume it takes 250 ml of flush to remove viscocity of 5 litres of oil. How much power would hardly 4-5 ml of residual flush have on 5 litres of oil.

[Raccoon]

Originally Posted by scopriobharath

Even if some Residual Flush is left (I say there would be marginal flush if at all),

It won't be marginal. Its never possible to drain all engine oil completely without opening the engine. Similarly it will never be possible to flush out a lot of this so-called flush.

All this flush business sounds like a lot of snake oil.

[ramzsys]

I recently changed engine oil for my Ford Ikon 1.8D. I removed the drain plug as soon as the engine was switched off(hot engine, run for about 1 hour on road) and oil was allowed to drip till the last drop.

This was because removing the oil filter took some time, maybe about half hour. I filled in Shell Rimula 15W40, then drove for about 30 km, and in the morning tried to check oil level. This is when i was astonished, for, the oil retained the colour atleast 60%, although some carbon was present.

This engine has done 1,10,000 km, never flushed before, and has some acceptable level of blow-by,

so i feel that our Authorised Service centres are not doing a good job when doing oil service. So if the existing oil is not drained out fully, then there must be some under-filling of the new oil too.

[msaudf]

The oil in the engine serves several other purposes other than just lubrication, and one of them includes cleaning, as combustion takes place it leaves a lot of carbon in the cylinder linings, the oil in the engine cleans the carbon in the cylinder lining while lubricating the it as well. another important job performed by the oil is heat distribution, it absorbs the heat in the cylinder linings and takes it away to cooler parts of the engine or an oil cooler. in your case its quite normal to see new oil retaining its blackishness although its fresh. Engine decarb only keeps the oil clean for a certain amount of time after about a week of the decarb you'll see the same scenario. so chill.

[Catalyst_delhi]

Originally Posted by ramzsys

I recently changed engine oil for my Ford Ikon 1.8D. I removed the drain plug as soon as the engine was switched off(hot engine, run for about 1 hour on road) and oil was allowed to drip till the last drop.

This was because removing the oil filter took some time, maybe about half hour. I filled in Shell Rimula 15W40, then drove for about 30 km, and in the morning tried to check oil level. This is when i was astonished, for, the oil retained the colour atleast 60%, although some carbon was present.

This engine has done 1,10,000 km, never flushed before, and has some acceptable level of blow-by,

so i feel that our Authorised Service centres are not doing a good job when doing oil service. So if the existing oil is not drained out fully, then there must be some under-filling of the new oil too.

Colour of oil is not a determinant of the service life of oil. It depends for me. In petrol engines usually the colour does not change much. In diesels the colour change is quicker probably due to higher pressure/heat in a diesel engine and soot. You engine does produce more soot than a mordern diesel. If Shell has good detergents then it will become black as soon as it should and keep it in suspension. Just make sure your filter is as good as your oil. Shell is good oil and a matching filter would be i think sakura or purolator ( not too sure on this)

[noelravin]

Originally Posted by Catalyst_delhi

Colour of oil is not a determinant of the service life of oil. It depends for me. In petrol engines usually the colour does not change much. In diesels the colour change is quicker probably due to higher pressure/heat in a diesel engine and soot. You engine does produce more soot than a mordern diesel. If Shell has good detergents then it will become black as soon as it should and keep it in suspension. Just make sure your filter is as good as your oil. Shell is good oil and a matching filter would be i think sakura or purolator ( not too sure on this)

After draining the old oil and changing the oil filter you could pour a liter of oil and crank the engine so it turns-over once or twice so that more sludge gets drained into the sump. Do not let it start. Then drain the oil again and the system should be clean. If the Oil turns black its getting the job done.

[blackfire_9]

Originally Posted by ramzsys

I recently changed engine oil for my Ford Ikon 1.8D.......I filled in Shell Rimula 15W40.........This engine has done 1,10,000 km, never flushed before, and has some acceptable level of blow-by,

The oil you have used is a HDEO & has a specified drain interval of about 30K kms under heavy usage. It has a very strong additive pack, something which isn't really required for your car but since you have used it, make sure that you change the oil filter after about 5-6K kms.

Originally Posted by Catalyst_delhi

If Shell has good detergents then it will become black as soon as it should and keep it in suspension. Just make sure your filter is as good as your oil.

I couldn't have agreed more on the importance of a good filter. In fact, I believe that modern day oils can easily run the specified service intervals, its just the filters that could be changed in between for some better results/protection.

Originally Posted by noelravin

After draining the old oil and changing the oil filter you could pour a liter of oil and crank the engine so it turns-over once or twice so that more sludge gets drained into the sump. Do not let it start. Then drain the oil again and the system should be clean. If the Oil turns black its getting the job done.

noel, this seems to be very risky. Is there any way to ensure that the engine won't fire up?