[gkveda]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Can't they be pushed back in?

While putting it back, tightening the nuts after putting the wheel back will fix the drums inside the bearing bolts automatically and gets tightened. While removing, you need to gently hammer the drum so that it gets loosened and comes out.

[ashwinprakas]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

The price of Jack stands online is 40-50% higher than local market. I purchased a pair of jack stands of Gallop brand for 1250 Rupees incl GST. So online, that seems like the closest to market price

Thank you for sharing that, I've moved away from my folks place(Kollam) to Trivandrum for a bit and would try my luck here in the local market.

How is Gallop? Would you recommend I get the same? And just to confirm, the quoted price is for a pair I believe.

Originally Posted by gkveda

While putting it back, tightening the nuts after putting the wheel back will fix the drums inside the bearing bolts automatically and gets tightened. While removing, you need to gently hammer the drum so that it gets loosened and comes out.

The question was with regard to the front brake caliper's pistons since I was under the assumption that you were referring to those, now after going back I guess you were referring to the brake liners, in which case I believe the procedure is to remove all springs and take out the brake liners, reset the auto adjuster and then put everything back in place. Please do correct me if I've got anything wrong.

And I'm the meanwhile I did reach out to my friend who works at MGP and he mentioned that the lock nut is 30mm, so would only be getting a 30mm socket, and after listening to the whole issue he is confident that rather than target the rear drum adjuster I should go ahead and bleed the system of air, and recommended the following pattern;

1. RLH
2. FRH
3. RRH
4. FLH

Do share your thoughts on the same.

[Jeroen]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

after listening to the whole issue he is confident that rather than target the rear drum adjuster I should go ahead and bleed the system of air, and recommended the following pattern;

1. RLH
2. FRH
3. RRH
4. FLH

There are some different thoughts ranging from it doesn’t matter at all, to if you don’t follow the correct sequence it will never work. Some people base it on length of the lines, or how the brake lines are connected to the master brake cilinder, which is very often a diagonal cross patter.

I go according to the following rule:

Follow the length of the brake lines. From the longest to the shortest. So you start bleeding the brake with the longest brake line and end with the brake with the shortest line.

In my experience bleeding goes easily and then most likely it doesn’t matter what sequence you use. Or it won’t go so easily. In which case you often end up trying all sorts of different sequences and or tricks anyway.

Just a suggestion; if you can find a similar car or two and try out the feel of the pedal so you get some sort of reference.

Good luck.


Jeroen

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Can't they be pushed back in?

With motorcycles we just push them back in one at a time, I understand that there would be more resistance considering the size of the hardware at hand, but should I consider opting for special tools? If so please advice.

No they cannot be pushed in without tools. Use a C clamp to push it in. But this is mandatory if you replace the pads. Be careful about the rubber boots around the piston.

The setup was way wonkier than I'd expected it to be, guess I was using the jack upside down as well.

Would anyone recommend a good brand to buy jack stands from as I'm in the process of sourcing all the tools and I see a couple of manufacturers selling them on Amazon namely;

You get what you pay for is all I will say. Considering your life depends on these things holding your car up whilst your are working underneath it's well worth the money.

Also, you will need a 2 or 3 tonne floor hydraulic jack, sometimes called a "crocodile jack" in India to lift the car. Make sure you place the jack stands at the correct positions on the chassis. Refer to the manual. It is generally where you place the scissor jack when changing a flat tyre.

Would need to source a rubber mallet as well, I doubt my makeshift one would survive a car.

Please buy the tools required. Don't skimp. Firstly this is a critical part of the car you are attempting to service. Secondly, using the correct tools makes it far easier to do the job correctly.

A friend who is a service technician at MGP(in another district) did mention that the systems on our cars are self bleeding and would automatically remove air bubbles trapped in the lines, for the time being I thought that might be the case with new brake systems as once I while swapping my motorcycles brake line I could not get pressure no matter what I did so I closed everything up and called it a night, next day morning after bleeding a few drops I got compression just like that, which was so strange that at the moment I even considered religion.

Sorry, that's a load of tosh he's spouting. All hydraulic brake and clutch (clutch not applicable to the M800) systems need to be bled. First at the master cylinder and then progressing to the calipers and slave cylinders.

That would be a few hours of my life wasted, as I seem to be getting solid information from this thread rather than the half-bottomed logic he usually gives me for messing up things.

I reckon you'd be spending more time on this than an experienced mechanic no matter his working style. There is always a learning curve.

But after brake pad and fluid replacement if I'm unable to resolve the issue then I might go back, which I doubt is unlikely, as I'm also considering replacing the adjuster cylinder as the car is going to turn 10 soon and other than the cylinders being replaced once I do not recall anything else being replaced. Do recommend if anything else needs to be replaced.

Replace the parts only as needed after evaluating their condition. Take an experience tech's advice if needed.

I have taken note of the suggested tools and consumables, though I'm still uncertain whether I'd need clamps to push the pistons in on the front caliper, I was under the assumption that this could be done by hand, like on a motorcycle.

As mentioned above you would need a C clamp. The caliper push back tool I bought was specifically for cars with rear disc brakes and parking brakes where the piston has to be turned either clockwise or anti clockwise to push it back into the caliper cylinder.

With the motor running I did try to engage the hand brake to see if it made a difference in brake pedal travel but it did not, isn't that strange? As I expected there to be a change in the brake pedal travel as my understanding from the video Jeroen shared is that the hand brake pulley engages the brake shows from below which should in fact result in less travel for the brake cylinder, right?

Wrong, the hand brake activates the slave cylinders via a separate mechanism. It is also called an 'E' brake in some countries because it can be used if your car experiences a hydraulic system failure.

I did move the car a bit in reverse and brake hard and that made no difference, will try again tomorrow in open space and report if there's any difference.

This is applicable only to some cars, not all.

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

The question was with regard to the front brake caliper's pistons since I was under the assumption that you were referring to those, now after going back I guess you were referring to the brake liners, in which case I believe the procedure is to remove all springs and take out the brake liners, reset the auto adjuster and then put everything back in place. Please do correct me if I've got anything wrong.

Install the rear liners, put on the drum, turn the star wheel clockwise/anticlockwise till it engages the drum, then back off about 2 revolutions of the star wheel till the drum turns freely. Do the same for the other rear wheel.

listening to the whole issue he is confident that rather than target the rear drum adjuster I should go ahead and bleed the system of air, and recommended the following pattern;

1. RLH
2. FRH
3. RRH
4. FLH

Do share your thoughts on the same.

As mentioned in an earlier post, I suspect you have air trapped in the system OR have a faulty master cylinder. While there are several opinions about the right sequence to bleed your brakes, the procedure I follow on RHD vehicles is start from the wheel furthest away from the master cylinder which in our case will be:

1) Rear left
2) Rear right
3) Front left
4) Front right

You can choose to do a 2 person brake bleeding procedure, a gravity bleed or one with a pressure canister. I'd suggest doing # 1 with the help of a friend. There are plenty of YT videos on how to bleed your brakes. Always make sure you keep the reservoir topped up. It should never run below Min level marked on the body. Use freshly opened container of the correct brake fluid. Maruti takes DOT 3 or DOT 4. Check the manual.

[scorpian]

The correct sequence of brake bleeding is as mentioned
1) Rear Left
2) Rear Right
3) Front Left
4) Front Right

You go from the the farthest to the closest. This is what i have been following and works best.
You could also use syringe and take out as much as fluid possible from the reservoir which will cut down time needed to do the bleed eventually.A syringe with a plastic pipe works fine.

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by ashwinprakas

Thank you for sharing that, I've moved away from my folks place(Kollam) to Trivandrum for a bit and would try my luck here in the local market.

How is Gallop? Would you recommend I get the same? And just to confirm, the quoted price is for a pair I believe.

.

They are very good. Well built and sturdy. Yes, the cost is for a pair

[DRC]

Don't fix something that isn't broken!
Most modern cars do NOT have anything to adjust play. Actually, play gets automatically adjusted as you drive, through an auto adjusted mechanism located in the rear drums.
If you have some manual adjustment done(like mechanic adjusted for some wrong reason), it will adjust back to normalcy once again after a few actions of braking.
If you still want shorter play, you can try this short cut... in a safe place, run the car in reverse till about 15-20kmph, and brake hard. Do it a couple of times, the auto adjusted triggers itself and adjusts the brakes to be tad tighter.

Having said all this, There could be a completely different reason that one feels the brakes sink to the floor. Like, air trapped in the system, moisture in the fluid or failed master cylinder. Adjusting usually wont help. Take it to a competent mechanic and have it fixed.

Brakes are critical safety systems. DIY may not be the best choice.

[RshE19]

Hello everyone,

I have been facing similar issues with my dad's 2010 sx4. Over the past few weeks, I have noticed that the brake pedal is not as sharp as it used to be and the stopping power when fully pushing the pedal has also reduced. If I had to press the pedal 30% before, now I have to press 70% to get the same braking effect.

I went to my FNG whom I have been visiting for any and all problems and told him the issue I am facing. He lifted the car and checked the front disc brakes and the rear drum brakes and said everything looks fine. I told him that it has been atleast 20k km when the brake fluid was last changed. He checked the fluid level and condition and said fluid is also fine and then proceeded to adjust the rear drum brakes.

He adjusted the brake using the brake adjuster such that the small end of the adjuster is now at an angle with the large end and, earlier both the ends were in the same line. This brought the pads closer to the drum.
Below is the part from boodmo.com and I am also attaching pics.

https://boodmo.com/catalog/part-stru...ke_rh-6794038/

This did the job and the pedal feel is now much better than before. Also the handbrake now gets engaged in the first click and is very tight to pull up any further while earlier it would only work if pulled till the last click.

I was very happy with the outcome and satisfied until I read somewhere that this type of adjustment is not recommended as it can cause the rear brakes to be slightly engaged all the time and cause additional tire wear and affect pickup as well.

Can someone please advise me if this procedure is a normal practise or some kind of jugaad that can have terrible repercussions.

Thank you for reading so patiently and I would be grateful for your help.