[nTorq]

‘How to run-in your vehicle?’, has probably been one of the most debated topics in the automotive world. While there is perhaps no ‘right answer’ to it theoritically, I’ve always been curious to know how most people are doing it in real-life, and whether their approach has had any bearing on the vehicle itself. Some may have run-in the vehicle in a textbook manner, and may have seen great results, while others may have done this with not-so great results. Hence creating this small poll to understand how fellow BHPians have gone about their run-in, and what the results have been.

[Mafia]

I maintained low RPM, in my case under 2k. I am unable to judge if it helped as there is nothing to compare it to.

I still warm the engine up for 20 seconds in warm weather and 30 seconds in winters. Is there a benefit?

I can only say my maintenance costs are low. No parts are worn out before their time and my bills are mostly the parts replaced as per recommendation.

[jayakumarkp]

Though I drive across the rev band, redlining was very very less. Even otherwise I don't redline much. But I do try to ensure that engine warms up a bit, before going spirited :-). Also, during shutdown, I try to idle for a few seconds.

[AutoNoob]

Originally Posted by nTorq

‘How to run-in your vehicle?’, has probably been one of the most debated topics in the automotive world. While there is perhaps no ‘right answer’ to it theoritically, I’ve always been curious to know how most people are doing it in real-life, and whether their approach has had any bearing on the vehicle itself.

IMHO, answer to his question is vital, but the poll is flawed. To select either of the options, an individual needs to have atleast two vehicle : a test vehicle and another control sample vehicle.

• Maintained low RPM. Definitely helped.
• Maintained low RPM. Didn’t see any significant use of doing so.
• Drove across all RPMs. This helped.
• Drove across all RPMs. Made no major difference.
• Didn’t follow any standard process. Regretted this later.
• Didn’t follow any standard process. Made no difference.

Though as mentioned by OP, theoretically, eased driving in initial period may help. But diving like a maniac is surely going to ruin a thing or two.

[abhishek46]

Why not follow what is recommended in the User Manual i.e. to Take-It-Easy during the first 1000Kms.

Examples below:

From Hyundai:


From Maruti:


From Tata:

[Shreyas_H]

As someone who is in the process of running-in a new car, I think it's better to err on the side of caution and follow whatever the car brand has suggested for the run-in period in the owner's manual

Volkswagen has mentioned in the manual to avoid taking the engine RPM above 2/3rd of the maximum limit during this period. This translates to a healthy 3-4K range which in my opinion is acceptable for the initial run-in period.

[paragsachania]

I have had a simple rule that I have followed for both my cars (Petrol and Diesel) and both have crossed 2L Km without issues till now: Be gentle on the A pedal for at least 5000 Km. You can however drive fast but the rate of change of your speeds should happen gradually and not abruptly. If you follow this simple rule, you will invariably shift to the right gears at the right time and ensure the RPMs are also within a specific range.

Additionally, even today, if my car is parked overnight, I always prefer to remain gentle on the RPMs for at least 5-8 minutes till the engine warms up.

If I buy a new car also, and even if I hit the highway the very next day, I will drive at varying speeds and also hit typical cruising speeds but will ensure that I don't do that for the sake of testing 0-100 or 80-120.

[aargee]

Suzuki Max 100 - Adhered to the manufacturer's instruction, no issues
Yamaha Rx100 & 135 - Varied across RPM during newly built & rebuilt engine & no issues
Activa - Varied across RPM during newly built & rebuilt engine & no issues
CBR - Adhered to the manufacturer's instruction, boom!!! piston gave up in 1200 Km. After replacing the engine, varied across RPM & have run over 132xxx Km, no issues
SCross - Varied across RPM during newly built & rebuilt engine & no issues

From my above experiences, I will follow manufacturer's adherence as much as possible with occasional bursts varying across RPM during engine bedding. Will start thinking of abusing the engine only post 5K Km or so

[condor]

A car can be run-in only once. So the method used is a one-way track. There is no way to tell which method helped, because you have no way to compare your car with itself.

[nTorq]

Originally Posted by condor

A car can be run-in only once. So the method used is a one-way track. There is no way to tell which method helped, because you have no way to compare your car with itself.

The benefits/ ill-effects could be perceived, like what some people in the thread have mentioned. As in, “I did ABC, and hence it led to XYZ.” No real way to connect the cause and effect, but wanted to understand the general trend.

[condor]

Originally Posted by nTorq

No real way to connect the cause and effect, but wanted to understand the general trend.

Correct - no real way to connect cause & effect. Even if someone gets two cars of same variant & model, and treats each differently - there still can be variances.

Any vehicle can have some manufacturing defect. Example: aargee's CBR: I will treat it as a manufacturing defect.

[GautamJ]

For both cars in my garage, I have never followed run-in and never regretted. Before my present cars I own Tiago and Manza, did a proper and calm run-in, but both proved to be a lemon. Rest all cars were pre-worshipped hence take the delivery and floor it to enjoy.

I have never run-in my scooters, and I am not aware if such precautions are written in the owner’s manual.

[anjan_c2007]

Any internal combustion engine right from the first one by Daimler in 1886, needs the running-in period (different in kms or miles for every model) to be rigidly adhered to.

This is when the cylinder inner liner/s, pistons and rings mate and get accustomed to each other's presence. And the friction releases tiny, even micron sized metal granules and particles that gets accumulated in the engine oil. Similarly with the gears, these get gathered in the gear oil sump. The engine oil drain nut in many cars has a magnetic head, facing the engine sump. Much of the metal sticks to the magnet and its easy to brush this off.

For this reason, automobile makers recommend changing the engine and gear oils at an earlier interval after the new motor vehicle is bought during the first service.

Hence, its always advisable to follow the owner's manual. Every automobile brand and the respective models, owners' manual mentions this fact about the running-in period.

[rrsteer]

Originally Posted by abhishek46

Why not follow what is recommended in the User Manual i.e. to Take-It-Easy during the first 1000Kms.

Examples below:

From Hyundai:
Attachment 2206497

Kia too has similar recommendations. But I just couldn't follow it for the Carnival. Keeping the engine speed in the range of 2k - 4k rpm would mean speeds in excess of 120kmph on the highway and accelerating like a maniac in the city. The best I could do was vary the engine speed as much as I could. My first 1000kms also involved a trip to the hills, where the engine got operated in a variety of driving conditions.

[sole_rider]

I bought my Ignis from Kannur, Kerala. The next day I had to come back to Koppa, Chikamagalore due to some unavoidable circumstances. I took delivery of my car with 20km on the odo. By the time I was at Koppa, I had covered almost 400km. Almost half of the manufacturer suggested (960km) running-in was covered in this journey which includes 11 km Agumbe ghat. Even though I drove with maximum caution, I was a bit worried as this is my first new car. I managed to take a break every 60 km or so. But still I am a little worried. I have decided to change the engine oil and oil filter when I go for the first service that's due in next two weeks.