Team-BHP - As of today, what's broken / not working in your car?
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Vehicles Sold:


2006 WagonR LXI - Nothing Really

2013 Verna Fluidic - 8 year mark, around 46000 kms, Engine mounts weakened and had to be replaced, Exhaust had Cracked and had to be welded shut, AC Vent Adjusting Slider Broke, General Wear and Tear of the Leather in the Interior, Boot Opening Proximity Sensor Stopper working

2017 Kwid - 5 Year Mark, 20000 Kms, Loss of Power suddenly past 80 Kmph - Fuel Pump and Engine Bearings had to be replaced.

Vehicles Currently Owned:

2021 MG ZS EV Exclusive - 3000 km Mark, No Major Issue, one Minor issue wherein an oil seal of some sort had given way and the car was leaking oil without us knowing. Still didn't even bat an eye and did a 400km trip without a single malfunction or warning. Was replaced under warrantly. Currently at the 7000 km Mark with no issues at all

2003 Fiat Palio -

Its amazing that there are no major issues in a 19 year old car, its just that my father left the car under the tree during lockdown and it took its toll.

Headlight - Right side low beam is not working. Tried multiple times, but it simply doesn't seem to work

Water Leak - The door rubber seal not working efficiently. Water leaks through the beading

Wiper - Low and inter speed doesn't work. So it high always

Door - Rear left door doesn't open from outside

Defogger - Rear de-fogger doesn't work

Paint - Fish eye and peeling off. Car looks battered

Regards

2006 Ford Fiesta 1.6 SXI:
Nothing currently wrong, not a single rattle either.

2021 Skoda Superb L&K:
Rattles. Lots of them. The first to appear was from around the instrument cluster, a tiny creak. Then came phantom rattles that come and go as they please, from the front and rear left door pads (specifically around the top of the piano black trim in both cases). Then came another phantom rattle from the piano black trim on the left side of the dashboard. Finally, the most recent addition to the club of persistent rattles is one that comes from the roof, somewhere around the front reading light bezel. This is almost alarmingly noticeable, and has ruined the otherwise silent ambience of this car.

We will be getting this checked out, and I will make a post on that when it happens. A 40 Lakh sedan that's less than a year old facing such issues?? Not done. :Frustrati :Frustrati

2011 Toyota Corolla Altis D4D G
Driver side ORVM auto retractor not working, One center AC vent tab broken. Looking for replacement for both without breaking my bank.

Apart from these, no other issues in the car.

Ignis MT. 2020 model, run 24,000 km. Too much play in steering, was identified as an issue with the rack. Front wheel cladding plastic nuts that keep the cladding firmly on their place have come off. The side cladding above the wheel have also come loose, most of them actually.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DicKy (Post 5317636)
2016 Etios. 54,000kms
Rear parking sensors- Works fine. But 1 out 10 times, it will let out a long continous beep when in reverse. Put it into neutral, and again engage reverse, it works fine again.
Speedometer- Once in a few ....

Update:
The rear parking sensors have gone kaput. Guess, the super flimsy rear bumper has been hitten a time too many.

2014 Passat 1.4 TSI Ecofuel CNG Kombi variant. Bought used last year with 172k on the odo.


The hand rest compartment mechanism is kaput and the rear trunk space roller cover is gone. The music system refuses to delete the previously configured phone(previous owner) and refuses to connect mine to make and receive phone calls. But I can play music without a problem. So, that's still OK. OE replacement parts are super expensive here. Never bothered to replace. Just carrying on the way it is.

2008 Honda Accord 2.4 AT with a mileage of 1.2 Lakh KM's

The brake pedal when pressed doesn't yield to braking until past half of the pedal length. This issue has been brought to the attention of an independent workshop. The Brake master cylinder is the cause of this issue as per the mechanic. Therefore, ordered one from boodmo which states that it would take twenty days to arrive. Once the required part is delivered, will get it replaced and would get break bleed done as well.

Note to the moderators : I was trying to edit and update my previous post ,but I did not quite succeed, hence I am quoting it . Apparently I am not tech savvy enough . If this post could be merged with my earlier post , it would be very much appreciated .
Quote:

Originally Posted by SB08121980 (Post 5320227)

There is a hissing sound from the front wheels . I have been told by 2
different mechanic that the front brake pads need to be replaced .

A little update

The hissing sound as I mentioned was like the sound you get when you rub a sandpaper on steel . The sound used to change to a mild hum / howl when the speed was increased . I had long suspected that it was the bearing that had gone bad ; but the mechanic kept insisting it was the brake pads . On their insistence , I got the brakes pads replaced by Bosch brake pads, since MGP was not available .

The hissing-humming-howling sound remained . Drove the car for a week , nothing changed .
Then I got the bearings changed by them . Again non MGP , since MGP was not available . It's been nearly 2 months ( and 1200 kms ) since, no sounds whatsoever .

Audi A8L - throwing error no P0471 which relates to the exhaust system. Have tried many things including adding Dieswl filter cleaner as well as Diesel Particulate Filter cleaner and driving on revs of over 4k for over 20 miles but the error still keeps coming and car goes into limp mode. Will need to get checked by an expert now.

Wiper blades procured off amazon and changed by myself today. Work flawlessly.

Rear right door doesn’t open from outside. Have decided to leave this as it is as was quoted an insane amount to be fixed.

Sunroof cover doesn’t work so don’t open the sun roof with the fear that it may get stuck. Just enjoy the tilt function now.

2013 Hyundai i10 Sportz AT

The car was sitting unused for a while and therefore quite a few things on the list right now. I'm getting them done one or two at a time.

Off the list
- New Amaron battery
- New tyres - Upgraded to Yokohama S-Drive 185/60 -14 along with used i20 Alloys.
- Headlight upgraded to LEDs
- Replaced tailgate hydraulic
- Floor mats were replaced

Pending
- Interior light's not working as of now
- Windshield wipers need to be replaced
- Windshield washer container is leaking
- USB slot in the centre console has gone in

Mini Cooper S

Headlight controller throughs a fault for no reason
Windscreen washers stopped working. Very painful as the car is low and picks up muck

2017 Toyota Fortuner with 75,000km on the clock, at least 1/3 was hard expedition travel and off-road trips.

Rear hatch electric opening/closing motor was changed twice under warranty and extended warranty !
Was so annoying, I wanted to revert to a manual hatch opening mechanism.

The wooden portion of the steering wheel developed cracks in the 4th year of ownership. Was changed after a bit of a fuss and finger pointing under the extended warranty which I had fortunately opted for.

The front bumper is the weakest I’ve ever seen on a Offroad biased SUV. Comes off its moorings if someone stares at it hard:eek:

2008: Grand Vitara
Left side window switch is not working.

2012: Duster
Again left side window switch is not working.

2017: Trailblazer
Right side rear light is partially broken.

2010 i20 diesel done 1.5 lakh kms

Transmission oil seepage from gear box
Engine and gear box mounts weak
Steering column noise
Reverse camera not working


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