[saket77]

First things first. The cause of brake warning lamp on the instrument panel should be inspected. As stated earlier, the first point of check should be inspection of brake fluid level. As the level dips more than a certain threshold level, the warning lamp comes on. The other inspection point should be the switch under the handbrake lever. The switch acts just like a door switch and can get stuck in a position due to dirt/ misaligned carpets etc. I think, you will be able to sort out the brake warning lamp issue by checking these points. However, if the brake fluid is any older than 2 years, I will advice a flush and filling of new fluid in the system.

Wobbling of the car? My first suspect would have been bent rims. But as you say they are all okay, get wheel alignment & balancing done. Also, very much could be the steering tie rod joints or the CV joints or bad lower arms in the suspension system. Difficult to pin point without physically inspecting the car, but even worn out tires or ones with flat spots can cause these symptoms.

Do update us when you get the job done/ problems diagnosed.

Regards,
Saket

[paragsachania]

Originally Posted by Divya Sharan

He prominently mentioned 2 issues to me a couple of days back:
1. Hand brake light stays ON on the dashboard,

As rightly pointed out by most of the folks, you will need to inspect 2 things:

-The Brake Fluid Level
-Hand Brake Switch which can easily be accessed by removing the center console around the gear level

There can also be a very rare possibility of the Brake Fluid level indicator gone kaput (Unit itself or the wiring) due to which its displaying the indicator on the Dashboard.

If the levels are indeed low, park your car with the engine turned off and press the Brake pedal with good effort to see if it is fully getting depressed. Do this for 3-4 times and if the pedal is sinking in after applying pressure, suspect a case of leaving fluid lines too - This leakage ideally would impair your car's braking ability that you have noticed anyways if it was the case.

2. Wobbling of the car.

1. Wheel Balancing will be first to check
2. As Saket mentions - Check for Bends
3. There is a change that the Tire's rubber would have become hard too
4. Assuming the tires are Tubed type - Any patchwork inside by the puncture repair folks?

You would also try swapping the front wheels to rear and check for wobbling.

Lower Arms, Suspension Struts and Bushes would be the next level to troubleshoot and isolate but do get these basic checks done first.

[Divya Sharan]

Bump!

Sadly, dad wasn't able to get the car repaired until last week due to some health issues.

He took it to a FNG (owned by a chap who previously worked at MASS for 10 years or so).
His diagnoses were quite in line with what BHPians had to say.
1. Brake fluid changed - handbrake light issue resolved.
2. Left suspension had gone bust and right wasn't too good in condition either - replaced them both.
3. Silencer/exhaust indeed needed welding. A metal patch was put and welded. In fact, the exhaust pipes were cleaned inside out prior to fitting.
4. Rear tires had bulges that weren't noticed earlier and the alignment done earlier was of shoddy quality. Re-aligned properly at Bridgestone outlet.
5. 2 set of new tires.

Total damage to pocket for all 5 pointers above - 12.3k.

The car is happy and after a week of thorough testing, dad is happy!

[norhog]

Originally Posted by Vikki@Hyderabad

Thanks All for your valuable suggestions:

1. Yes, taking the car on a long drive the very first day wasn't the right thing to do. I agree. Got completely carried away.

2. I replaced all tires within 6 months of buying the car (financial situation permitting). All tires were in a bad condition which I didn't notice. And while, yes, one can expect punctures, one wouldn't expect a puncture because of a torn tire the very first day. However, I've seen punctured brand new temp registration cars. I should've checked before buying it, but as I've already mentioned, I was new to this world. A good experience and guide for my second buy though.

3. Yes, I have a relay/cut-out powerful enough for 130/100 headlights. I'd also like to point out that I don't use high beam within city limits, at low speeds or wherever it isn't necessary.

4. About "Shock 2", no, I'm yet to come to terms with it. I feel it as a time bomb tied to my chest that is ticking continuously.

5. And yes, I've done 34k Kilometers in 2 years since buying it. So one of the things I'm happy about.

5. I'm absolutely happy with the little spaces the car has, and the excellent legroom and headroom. I've had many good experiences with the car as well. But with this thread here, I just wanted to highlight the M.A.S.S. situation.

Something that I wasn't very clear about when I started - the attitude of the service advisers/engineers. It's a mixed bag, really. Many a times I've felt their level of attention for the older and/or cheaper cars is far less than on the new and/or costlier models. And though sometimes they appear very friendly, the kind of work that happens during the service visit is sub-par. One needs to remember and check if all the work has been carried out as requested. And the delivery time is at least 2 hours late every single time. Sometimes I've had to wait for a couple of days after the promised date. I've visited three M.A.S.S. centers in particular in Hyderabad, two Gem Motors and R.K.S. Saboo.

Saboo: My experience with Saboo was satisfactory. Just that the workers need something for their chai-paani every time you take your car back.

Gem Motors Hydernagar: I've visited them only for a couple of small things, like replacing a broken clutch cable (on the move). Once, I did visit them for the hiccups issue (the LPG issue I've mentioned earlier in the thread). They did something and didn't charge anything for it as the vehicle was still under warranty. The issue itself, though it seemed to have gone away for the first couple of kilometers, was still there.

Gem Motors Kondapur: Here's where I've got most of the services done as this is close by to my workplace. And this is where I've had issues with SE/SA attitude. I've visited repeatedly to get one issue fixed, also applicable to the LPG problem I've had. They narrowed it down to spark plugs, which they cleaned once, replaced the next time, and it now has become part of my life.

Other service stations: Once I visited a trusted garage referred by a friend & colleague. An oil change, general service cost me around 3k. He also fixed squeaks & rattles, stiffened the loose suspension (as I guess is the case with most, if not all, Wagon Rs), along with pick-up and drop for 3k. Unfortunately, this garage shut down (maybe because of the low profit/labor margin). He also pointed out that the hiccups problem is due to weak coils.

6. The broken air-filter story - additional details: this happens when it's running on LPG at slow speeds. Especially when I try crossing a small speed-breaker in 2nd gear (read, it has enough speed behind it not to be slotted into the 1st), the engine just dies for a moment. And this is where I feel the car has difficulty breathing, evidenced by a couple of loud pops and probably where the air-filter box broke. The SEs at M.A.S.S. say they don't see a problem at all. And as it happens with humans when they visit a doctor, my car's symptoms kind of vanish when it's test-driven by SEs. However, since then, I make sure I don't press the pedal too hard. If the car refuses to budge, I slow down and slot it into the first, and even then throttle response is delayed by a moment. Running on petrol it is super-smooth. I understand the BHP varies from petrol to LPG, but my other friends who own LPG Wagon Rs have never faced this issue. I had them drive my car and they agreed that my car has a problem.

As I've pointed out before, this is my first experience with a car. I've done some things right and some wrong, but I'm learning from my mistakes and trying to take better care of my car and be a better driver.

Mileage-wise, I get somewhere between 11 & 12 kms on LPG and 13.5-14.75 on petrol in semi-city drives, both with 25%-50% A/C. I guess that's good enough mileage.

Hey Vikki
Sorry to be 1 year late for the reply.
Hope the problem about the sluggish engine response during second gear engine revving up has gone.
I also had a Wagon R LPG DUO and had similar problem.
I contacted the eastern zone technical head (I stay in Kolkata) Minda (suppliers of LPG kit for wagaon R).
He personally checked the car.
He changed the LPG filter and removed the shims on the Air valve mixer.
The problem was solved.
Please see the pdf files of the same attached.
I have the service manual of Wagon R (old model) and its LPG supplement. In case of any other query I would be happy to help.WR gas.pdf

wr gas filter.pdf

wr mixer.pdf

Also please see the picture of the shims.

[Vikki@Hyderabad]

Hey, Norhog, first of all, thanks for the prompt response. Unfortunately, I sold the car and bought a diesel Figo 8 months ago. However, your post is definitely going to help as I have a few friends who own LXi Duos. Much appreciate it

[MunnabhaiMBBS]

Hello everyone,

Putting forward my Wagon R Lxi - 2013 case :

Current Issues :

- Rear bench-back rattles due to excessive seat hinges play.
- Sqeeky noise / vibrations from rear side while shutting off the engine.

Comments :

Replaced fuel pump (May'14).

• Failure symptom : Sqeeky noise while turning the ignition on / off.
• MASS : Chowgule Industries Pvt Ltd, Katraj workshop, Pune.
• Time taken : 5 Hours.
• Cost : Nil (Classified as Warranty repairs).

Way Forward :

• A scheduled visit to Chowgule Industries Pvt. Ltd, Katraj workshop for diagnosis.

Your valuable inputs are welcome and will be handy during my visit to MASS

[saket77]

Originally Posted by MunnabhaiMBBS

Current Issues :

- Rear bench-back rattles due to excessive seat hinges play.
- Sqeeky noise / vibrations from rear side while shutting off the engine.

Why the fuel pump was changed? If there was a sound when you switched on ignition, then it is very normal. It is the fuel pump operating to push fuel to the engine.

Coming to the current issues you are facing:

The rear seats have locking hinges screwed tightly to the lower part of C pillars. If those brackets have become lose, then the back rest recliner part may rattle.

Also, the other rattling noise while switching off the engine, if coming from rear, then please inspect the silencer muffler, exhaust tail pipe and CatCon.

Trust this would help.

Regards,
Saket

[MunnabhaiMBBS]

Thanks saket77 for prompt reply

Originally Posted by saket77

If there was a sound when you switched on ignition, then it is very normal. It is the fuel pump operating to push fuel to the engine.

- MASS Diagnosis : Noise level was higher than the normal & acceptable noise level.

Originally Posted by saket77

The rear seats have locking hinges screwed tightly to the lower part of C pillars. If those brackets have become lose, then the back rest recliner part may rattle.

Also, the other rattling noise while switching off the engine, if coming from rear, then please inspect the silencer muffler, exhaust tail pipe and CatCon.

- Play in the seat hinge lock mechanism itself.
- Will request MASS to check silencer muffler, exhaust tail pipe and CatCon.

Thanks again

[MunnabhaiMBBS]

Post-Visit Update

MASS: Chowgule Industries Pvt Ltd, Katraj, Pune.

Visit Date: 19/07/2014.

SA: Mr. Dhanaji Magar (Assistant Manager)

Issue: Rattling noise due to play in rear bench hinge lock mechanism.
Solution: Fitted a durable rubber insulation in hinge lock mechanism.
Effect: Rattling noise completely gone.

After multiple interactions with Mr. Magar over a year, I highly appreciate his hard work, dedication & customer-centric focus. He is best known for his expertise in solving the most complicated customer complaints.

I rate this MASS 9/10

[Sherlocked]

Today while cleaning the air filter of our 2004 Wagon R which has done 57k kms, i could see oil stains around the outer area of the air filter. This oil is actually coming from the opening inside the air filter box at the upper side.
See the pic of inside of air filter box. The pic is without the air filter in place.

Is this a serious issue? Car is regularly serviced at MASS with oil change at every 6-7k kms (5W30).

Thanks in advance.

[Manoj2268]

Hi,

I am facing a very peculiar issue with my WagonR(june 2004) since the last service, done approximately 3000 kms ago. Once the engine warms up, the idle kinda hunts around first and then stays at a steady rpm of 1200. I thought it could be due to a vacuum leak and tightened all joints and hoses however the problem still persists.

Upon visually inspecting the car again, i saw that there are 2 ports at the bottom of the throttle body assembly which was left open. I remembered having the TB cleaned during the last service. Upon looking at it, it seems that there were 2 hoses which were not put back when the car was buttoned up after service. The place which worked on the car has now shut shop and I'm not too inclined to give the vehicle to any other mechanic who may screw this up further.

If anyone has access to the part manual/fiche, could you point me out where these hoses connect. I have attached the picture of a Suzuki 1.1 F10 D engine throttle body for reference (the open ports are marked by arrows in the image)

[a4anurag]

Originally Posted by Manoj2268

If anyone has access to the part manual/fiche, could you point me out where these hoses connect. I have attached the picture of a Suzuki 1.1 F10 D engine throttle body for reference (the open ports are marked by arrows in the image)

Here is the picture of the engine bay, hope it will be of some help. Will be visiting MGP stockist tomorrow so will try and get hold of the parts manual to get you a clearer picture.

[Manoj2268]

Originally Posted by a4anurag

Here is the picture of the engine bay, hope it will be of some help. Will be visiting MGP stockist tomorrow so will try and get hold of the parts manual to get you a clearer picture.

Attachment 1441449

Hi Anurag,

Thank you for the reference image. The hoses in question are not visible in the pictures directly. They are hidden beneath the oval black intake pipe however we can see them if we peer beneath the intake tube.

[im_srini]

Originally Posted by Manoj2268

Once the engine warms up, the idle kinda hunts around first and then stays at a steady rpm of 1200.
Upon visually inspecting the car again, i saw that there are 2 ports at the bottom of the throttle body assembly which was left open.
Upon looking at it, it seems that there were 2 hoses which were not put back when the car was buttoned up after service.

Hi Manoj,
I wouldn't really worry if I were you, chances are that the 'ports' you've referred to aren't supposed to be connected to anything by design.
In older Altos, like my 2001 car, the two ports at the bottom of the throttle-body are for circulating coolant & heating the throttle-body.
They're connected to the coolant outlet on the block.
With each Bharat-Stage-n iteration of the Alto, these ports were not connected ( like in your car ), & then completely removed from the throttle-body.

The following posts & threads should help make things clear :

A) http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/modifi...ml#post3063975

B) http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...ml#post1116973

C) http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...ml#post1129699

If the two ports you've referred to have indeed been left unconnected as you surmise, your car would've leaked out all it's coolant - unless of course the garage you went to had run a bypass as Sankar has done ( thread A ).

Poor idling or hunting is probably due to a faulty or 'slow' IACV - usually brought on by the way that most garages clean throttle-bodies.
The idle speed for the F10D engine, post warm-up, is ~850 RPM without A/C, & ~950 RPM with A/C - in that context the 1,200 RPM you mention is a tad high.
Check if the idle-speed-screw on the throttle-body has been messed with, if everything else is fine, the only reliable fix for this issue is a change of the IACV itself ( costs ~Rs.2,500 ).
Let me know if you need the part numbers as I have two of them lying around at home - actually one for the Alto & one for the G13B Swift ( both are identical ).
.

[im_srini]

Originally Posted by Manoj2268

I saw that there are 2 ports at the bottom of the throttle body assembly which was left open.
If anyone has access to the part manual/fiche, could you point me out where these hoses connect.

Originally Posted by Manoj2268

Thank you for the reference image.
The hoses in question are not visible in the pictures directly.

Posting the image of the throttle-body hoses from the Parts-Catalog - refer hoses marked 19 & 20 :

In models where the throttle-body is warmed with coolant, these hoses are what connect the coolant circuit to the throttle-body ( via the 'ports' ).