[ak-47]

Originally Posted by kingshukt

Please inform is there are any other points to note during dis-arming procedure. I want to try it some time soon. Better to be aware before hand

The procedure is to be executed in one go. So, there is a possibility of making mistakes - while "keying"-in the code. No worry. Just take out the key, wait for a few seconds and you can start all over again.

Originally Posted by maheshmenon

Some doubts regarding the Factory fitted Immobiliser On EX:

(1)Apart from Dis-arming the horn, is there any way of getting past the im-mobiliser if the remote battery is dead or the remote is not working ? For example, products like Auto-Cop provide a way of punching a code to deactivate the Immobiliser System.

Thanks,
Mahesh

As mentioned earlier, removing the horn-fuse is just to cut-out the nuisance. This fuse is in no way connected to the immobilizer. The only way to dis-arm the immobilizer is to "key-in" the control-unit code as explained in the documented procedure. In a way, this is another (rather crude) way of "punching" the code. I am not aware of any other DIY option to dis-arm the immobilizer. Providing any easier option to dis-arm, would defeat the very purpose of the immobilizer itself.

cheers,

[ak-47]

Here is the disarm procedure documented after actually trying out the disarm operation. It's just a re-worded version of the one listed by Tata Motors/Minda on the back-side of the control unit card. The only addition is the horn disabling step.

1. Make sure the four-digit control-unit code (confidential code) is handy.
2. Open the driver-side door with the key ; the alarm will set off ; remove the horn-fuse [ location as indicated in the pictures; refer earlier post ] ; the horn-alarm should stop now.
3. { RED == the red "lock" indicator in the driver-side instrument cluster } Insert the key in the ignition, turn it to ON position and then to OFF. RED will go off for ~ 5 sec and then start flashing. Count the flashes ; when the number of ON/OFF flashes equals the first digit of the control-unit code, turn ON the ignition and then OFF. RED will ‘vibrate’ to indicate successful match. Then, RED will go off for ~ 5 sec and start flashing again. Repeat for remaining 3 digits. [ Note : In case of any mistake while “keying-in” the code, take out the key, wait for a few seconds and repeat step 3. ]
4. The immobilizer will get disarmed and the engine is ready to start firing !!. Replace the horn-fuse.

Hope it helps.

cheers,

[smsrini]

Originally Posted by smsrini

Got a call from TASS on hosur road for a free checkup camp on this sunday 9th Nov. Not sure if it is related to the camshaft pulley recall or something else.

Any other Bangalore owners got a call ?

rgds
Srini

Asked the SA about the camshaft gear recall. As expected drew a blank.

Asked the SA about the BG244 additive, and got a blank as a well. They've not heard a customer ask for this as yet. Their recommendation - dont add anything till the 2nd service / 30k kms, after which add Engine Flush.

Checked with Concorde Dairy Circle and mysore road, and they too dont stock BG244. Will check with the Bangalore Distributor listed on the Sikand Standley / BG SA website. The address listed is in KammanaHalli, so can check it out over the weekend.

cheers!
Srini

[ram.west]

hi gurus,


I'm having this problem occasionally with my Safari. The reverse gear does'nt engage properly. It's like once every 3 or 4 times i have this problem. Any ideas on what could be the problem??

[kingshukt]

Originally Posted by ak-47

Here is the disarm procedure documented after actually trying out the disarm operation. It's just a re-worded version of the one listed by Tata Motors/Minda on the back-side of the control unit card. The only addition is the horn disabling step.

1. Make sure the four-digit control-unit code (confidential code) is handy.
2. Open the driver-side door with the key ; the alarm will set off ; remove the horn-fuse [ location as indicated in the pictures; refer earlier post ] ; the horn-alarm should stop now.
3. { RED == the red "lock" indicator in the driver-side instrument cluster } Insert the key in the ignition, turn it to ON position and then to OFF. RED will go off for ~ 5 sec and then start flashing. Count the flashes ; when the number of ON/OFF flashes equals the first digit of the control-unit code, turn ON the ignition and then OFF. RED will ‘vibrate’ to indicate successful match. Then, RED will go off for ~ 5 sec and start flashing again. Repeat for remaining 3 digits. [ Note : In case of any mistake while “keying-in” the code, take out the key, wait for a few seconds and repeat step 3. ]
4. The immobilizer will get disarmed and the engine is ready to start firing !!. Replace the horn-fuse.

Hope it helps.

cheers,

Thanks a lot for the information.

Now I have to search for the card / code and will in most probability try it out on coming Sunday. As a precaution I will remove the horn fuse before I carry out the manual diasarming of the immobilizer.

Thanks again.

[adc]

Accidentally came across this in youtube, may be dadu and/or others can technically comment on something interesting happening over here or may be the steps as it happens. Anyway, otherwise, it is just a fun video

YouTube - Automobile engine assembly

Horizon Graphics --- It is proud to mention that, we have successfully completed our recent project on 'TATA Safari 2.2 DICOR'

It was about to convert conventional booklet on all SAFARI aggregates to Interactive CD. This is to enable cost reduction in printing, distribution and making technicians and engineers unerstand technology better for giving support to customers.

We worked on Engine aggregate and its sub components. The presentation includes flash based interface for navigation. It is fully loaded with 3D animation, schematics, video shoots. For more detailed information it is included with interactive 3D content of many parts and also PDF files.

It was great experience to transfer all engine parts in animation and assign motions to all parts as per their actual functioning in reality.

[Ravi Kashyap]

A few urgent inquiries: ( got Safari 2.2VTT last month)
1 The service manual of Safari mentions that the engine oil and filter has to be changed in the first service (at 1-1.5k).
The service engineer at TATA says its a misprint.
I personally checked in the Service Center Service Manual and that clearly states that the first oil&filter change is at 15k.
Also the Service Engineer called up the TATA guys at Pune (in my presence) and confirmed.
The Service Engineer is a good guy and known to me so is very unlikely to take one for a ride.
2 The air vent on the AC rotary control knob has a setting for diverting the air at the foot level (as is in most cars) but in Safari the air does not come out all. To my surprise I found that the vent terminates just short of the foot end so all the air actually stays in the huge center console (on both the left & right vents) and creates a noise when on blower settings above 2. I obviously thought that some part of the duct was missing (the end peices) so went to Hind Motors at Chandigarh (I was there then).
To my yet another surprise the Service Engineer there said that this was what came in Safari and that the floor matting had to be trimmed for air to come out and that would expose some wires that are concealed within!
He was also quite surprised as to why was I required the air outlet at the foot and justified the design as 'a feature really not required by people'. Now thats a real shoddy design.
3 The effect of the headlight adjustment knob is hardly evident on the light setting. Is this normal?

[smsrini]

Originally Posted by Ravi Kashyap

A few urgent inquiries: ( got Safari 2.2VTT last month)
1 The service manual of Safari mentions that the engine oil and filter has to be changed in the first service (at 1-1.5k).
The service engineer at TATA says its a misprint.
I personally checked in the Service Center Service Manual and that clearly states that the first oil&filter change is at 15k.
Also the Service Engineer called up the TATA guys at Pune (in my presence) and confirmed.
The Service Engineer is a good guy and known to me so is very unlikely to take one for a ride.
2 The air vent on the AC rotary control knob has a setting for diverting the air at the foot level (as is in most cars) but in Safari the air does not come out all. To my surprise I found that the vent terminates just short of the foot end so all the air actually stays in the huge center console (on both the left & right vents) and creates a noise when on blower settings above 2. I obviously thought that some part of the duct was missing (the end peices) so went to Hind Motors at Chandigarh (I was there then).
To my yet another surprise the Service Engineer there said that this was what came in Safari and that the floor matting had to be trimmed for air to come out and that would expose some wires that are concealed within!
He was also quite surprised as to why was I required the air outlet at the foot and justified the design as 'a feature really not required by people'. Now thats a real shoddy design.
3 The effect of the headlight adjustment knob is hardly evident on the light setting. Is this normal?

Aah! Vadodara. Brings back memories of my college days @ Techo!

1. Oil change is at 15k kms.
2. That setting does not wrk for me either. Never bothered about it though.
3. The headlight adjustment works. Try it in a dark place without any other street/vehicle lights around. With the OE bulbs, its a tad difficult to make out.

cheers!
Srini

[simply_sunny001]

[quote=smsrini;1049832]
3. The headlight adjustment works. Try it in a dark place without any other street/vehicle lights around. With the OE bulbs, its a tad difficult to make out.
/quote]

Safari headlight adjustment is cleary evident with OE bulbs too when on LOW beam.

so try with Low beam first to have a clear idea.

[tsk1979]

My HVAC knobs are playing truant.
The Cold->Hot knob is very tight, and midway it gets some kind of obstruction, and extra force has to be applied
The direction of flow rotary knob does not go fully to the windscreen end, it kind of gets stuck slightly before that, so airflow is at feet and windscreen
Even on internal circulation, smoke from other vehicles can come in through the vents, so vent is not fully closing.
So what will be the solution? Change the whole console?

[anupmathur]

Originally Posted by tsk1979

So what will be the solution? Change the whole console?

No no no. Just some twiddling. But I'm not sure if the dashboard needs to be downed for this in a Safari.

[suman]

Originally Posted by tsk1979

So what will be the solution? Change the whole console?

No, some minor adjustments need to be done - not DIY so take it to the workshop.

[tsk1979]

I guess 7500kms service, will come up in mid December.

[aburagohain]

@tsk
i guess you can report the issue of the a/c control knobs to the service guys and ask straight to replace it, from my experience so far, they do not hesitate to replace parts altogether, at least at concorde places where i have been so far, no coaxing was necessary.

well, my gasping problem is back with vengeance, just that it is less frequent now, but does make up for all the lost opportunities by being more pronounced, it almost seems like the engine totallly died for a moment now. i have not changed fuel pump or added any additives as yet, so the inputs are pretty much constant. btw, i am getting better mileage these days, nothing much to write home about, but noticeable after the second service at 9.5k run; earlier i used to get 9-9.4 with constant a/c on bangalore roads for almost 9 months, now it has gone to 10.5+ for the last two fills after the second service.

good to see this thread not growing too fast, that means our machines are doing alright after a year altogether.. cheers:

[Ravi Kashyap]

Originally Posted by smsrini

Aah! Vadodara. Brings back memories of my college days @ Techo!

1. Oil change is at 15k kms.
2. That setting does not wrk for me either. Never bothered about it though.
3. The headlight adjustment works. Try it in a dark place without any other street/vehicle lights around. With the OE bulbs, its a tad difficult to make out.

cheers!
Srini

Hi Srini.
I too would not really bother about the point no 2 but I travel long distance with my huge Labrador who squeezes into the foot well. He needs the AC more than I do. Infact I have packed the right side foot outlet so that he gets all the air. Actually he was much comfertable in the Indica. He has put on some weight so finds it wee bit tight in the car. I know all this sounds unusuall but thats the way it is. Anyway thanx for the inputs. Good to know you are from MSU.