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-   -   The Tata Safari 2.2L Technical / Problems Thread (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/43377-tata-safari-2-2l-technical-problems-thread-341.html)

You should change. Even though the tread may seem to be there, it is not enough considering the mountains that you are referring to. 60k is good for the tyre and you have done 83 already.

Mod Note: Post edited. Please do NOT reply to posts using bold text within a quoted post, as it leads to visual discomfort for readers. Additionally, it's inconvenient to quote & reply to such a post. For the correct way to quote, please see this thread.

Faced a problem recently on my safari. The driver door got locked while my friend was exiting the vehicle and without knowing he closed the door with keys in. Stuck in middle of road for some time till spare key arrived. Though logically it should not happen, i checked and noticed this. With the driver door open, if you try to lock the car from inside, first it will reject and all doors wont lock. If you try it immediately again, then all doors get locked. If you close the door in this condition and if your keys are inside, then your are stuck.

Is this a BUG or a FEATURE in Safari? Experts please advice.

Err... how did the door get locked when the key was in? Even the remote would have been with it, right?

There are 3 ways a door gets locked (no matter who is in or out):
1. Mechanical door lock (from outside) / latch from inside
2. Remote-operated locking (outside or inside)
3. Auto-lock after engine start (after time delay)

Which of these 3 methods locked the door? Or did that person, like with good old M800 / Van, lock the door with the door latch when he was inside (but door open) and then closed the door when outside?

Definitely not the scenario you described. No matter how many times you try, the doors won't lock as long as one door is open / not closed properly. The flashing of the indicator lights is different, and the horn will honk as a warning.

Fact is this was unintentionally done. But like old M800 can you lock the inside latch of driver door in a safari with door open?

I am not sure if this is a problem with my car. I would like to know if every safari works the same was as below.

With driver door open try locking the door latch from inside. In my car the door latch will immediately return back with great force and it wont lock any doors. But if you do the same thing again all door gets locked with the driver door open and if you close the door with key inside, doors are all locked.

Of course, like any car. The mechanical latch is the primary mechanism. Power locks only assist in closing that. If the electrical solenoid doesn't work for any reason, the mechanical lever still works. If you manually close the latch from inside, central locking tries to lock all doors. If you manually open, all doors open.

Yes, as you describe - except that in mine it doesn't lock till all the doors are closed. The lock keeps trying to close, but rebounds on every try. If I leave it in the unlocked state after unsuccessfully trying to lock, the horn starts beeping after a short delay. Has happened to me a few times - when I have pressed the lock button by mistake while exiting the car (it's my habit to remove the key from ignition as soon as I switch engine off - the key *must* be in my hand even if I am getting down for a couple of minutes).

I still cannot understand how the key can be inside when trying to lock - and the person outside. Key still inside the ignition switch and trying to lock via remote on the same ring???

In mine with the driver door open if i manually close the latch from inside, the central lock returns back with force. Now if I do the same manual closing immediately again it locks all doors.

Horn sounds when you lock with remote and any of the doors and not fully closed.

I gave my Safari 2.2 LX for the 30k service today at Rama Motors Okhla, I feel like I have been charged for stuff that isn't required.stupid:

Here's what the job card says:
1.Engine Oil Change : 2400
2.Oil Filter Change : 400
3.Air Filter Change : 700
4. Fuel Filter Change : 2000
5. Engine Flushing : 700
6. Engine Oil Suppliment : 450
7.Car Lubrication : 400
8.Engine Decarbonizing : 1300
9. Brake Pad Clean : 400
10. Brake Shoe Clean : 450
11. Centre Pin Greasing : 300
12. Hub Greasing : 700
13. Differential Oil replace: 200

Can someone please go through this list and the prices and whether it all looks okay.please:

I feel the quoted 3 were not required.

Decarbonizing is just a way for them to make some money. Read all about it here - http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...mystified.html.

Other than that, I would let the Safari experts answer you.

In Addition to the above, I got a call from SA stating that the Brake Pads and the Disc also needs to be changed.
I had read here that Discs are covered under warranty but the SA is refusing to honour it. He's saying that the damage to the discs is due to the worn brake pads.
Please suggest my future course of action. Would sending an email to customercare suffice or do I need to escalate it to someone else?

Seems like the exact issue cool_dude faced. Quoting the relevant posts.

car lubrication is fraud. pls ask what have they lubricated.

from next time onwards just ask them to do bare minimum that is needed to maintain warranty. you can also check that in your manual. parts cost almost 50-30% Less in open market..

you only needed oil change for engine and differential, oil and fuel filter changed. just these 4 things.

i dont think you can haggle much with them now.

brake pads are for 900 in open market and tata charges you 4500. so just tell them you r ok with bad brakes and get them done from outside. the discs can be rubbed in lathe machine to sort it out. costs around 400.

Hubs need periodic greasing. So do suspension components. Even the locks and hinges need greasing sometimes.
That said, the car lubrication item looks suspicious.
But then its Rama motors. They are very crafty in making money and always try to pick the pocket of the customer.

5,6,7,8 was not required, unless you asked for it, you should've refused to pay.

9,10,11,12 is part of the servicing and only the consumables like the grease should be charged.

Got the suspension Renewed, outside TASC. The mechanic who did the job works in TASC, Total cost around 12K including original components. But, I was surprised that a suspension job which costs around 21K in TASC does'nt includes shock-ups and springs.:Frustrati The springs cost around 3600 a pair if I remember correctly and shocks cost around 1100 Rs each.

But, to my surprise the steering has a fair bit of PLAY now too? What might be the cause? The mechanic tells that something inside power steering box has gone bad.

I have always seen the workshops charge extra for things like 9,10,11,12 which should be part of the servicing..Now with servicing cost around 1500, it is very weird that all it includes is washing and engine oil+filter change. Why does Tata motors not take action against dealers charging fraudulently?

He was already charged 700+300 for center pin and hub greasing, now if you are charged 400 more for lubrication, then it certainly should amount for fraud.. And lubrication should be part of the servicing. I wish Tata motors do something about the dealers inflating the bills so much.