Team-BHP - The Tata Safari 2.2L Technical / Problems Thread
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Lately I have been facing a niggling issue with my Safari 2.2vtt
The driver side power window glass while rolling up, gets stuck up at 90% and the glass tends to lean forward towards the front side of the car.

Can it be set right or would it require replacement of the entire window winder assembly?

Also I moved from Kolkata to Noida 8 months back and would request for pointers for good workshops in Noida who work with Safari well and are specialists.

My Safari is Nov 2009 model and unfortunately I would have to send her back to my hometown Ranchi before Nov 2019 due to the NGT rules for Diesel cars in Delhi NCR :Frustrati, since it would be driven from Noida to Ranchi hence want to get the car thoroughly checked in any good recommended workshop in Noida.please:

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbhaduri (Post 4593840)
Also I moved from Kolkata to Noida 8 months back and would request for pointers for good workshops in Noida who work with Safari well and are specialists.

Try World of Service, Sector 67, Noida. They are good and the owner has a Safari so he understands the vehicle quite well.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbhaduri (Post 4593840)
Lately I have been facing a niggling issue with my Safari 2.2vtt
The driver side power window glass while rolling up, gets stuck up at 90% and the glass tends to lean forward towards the front side of the car.

99% your winder is kapoot and may require replacement. The wire which pulls the window up & down may be facing some alignment issues with roller.

Have you tried pushing it up with one hand while you are winding it up? It can help. Since it is a 2009 model (mine is 2010) the ASS will definitely ask you to change the entire assembly including glass, winder, motor etc. It happened with me. I gave them a cold ear & ordered the existing unit from 99rpm (now defunct for Tata) & installed.

Models before 2010 have two support mechanisms (sliders, if I may say so) for glass to stay in place and move up & down, however post 2010 models have single sliders & one support beam at the bottom of the glass.
The support beam at the bottom with two holes in the glass to tighten the glass & support beam. YOur glass will only have one hole. The new glass itself will cost around 5000+. ASS will not encourage any "jugaad" for your glass. However, someone who deals with cutting of glasses can make two hole in the bottom of existing glass to support & install the new assembly.

You can try on "Boodmo" for the pre2010 assembly. Those available locally will give you trouble fairly quickly & you may have to go through entire pain again.

Hope this helps.

Quote:

Originally Posted by saurabh2711 (Post 4596534)
99% your winder is kapoot and may require replacement. The wire which pulls the window up & down may be facing some alignment issues with roller.

Have you tried pushing it up with one hand while you are winding it up? It can help. Since it is a 2009 model (mine is 2010) the ASS will definitely ask you to change the entire assembly including glass, winder, motor etc. It happened with me. I gave them a cold ear & ordered the existing unit from 99rpm (now defunct for Tata) & installed.

Thanks for the reply both front power window assemblies were replaced in 2011 or, 2012 under warranty, hopefully they were of the new design as you mention. Yes while winding up if I push the glass towards the rear it goes up and closes fully.

Will get it checked in my next visit to TASS.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sbhaduri (Post 4596619)
Yes while winding up if I push the glass towards the rear it goes up and closes fully.

Apologies, Somehow this comments was deleted while editing my post & missed to update later.

A day or two earlier to once you decide to take this to TASS; try pouring in few drops of engine oil on to the sliders where the glass gets stuck. It worked for me for few weeks & then entire assembly was replaced as the complete wiring winder was misaligned & crumpled.

Having said that, my two cents:
if your glass is rolling up freely till the point it gets stuck> no issues.

However if entire process of rolling up is tooo slow, right from the bottom to the top, as compared to passenger side door, get it attended immediately. You are at risk of losing the motor as well, due to excessive load on it. Specially if the glass stops in between & you have to release & re-engage the switch to start over with some tick-tick sound from the assembly during this process.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DerAlte (Post 2231831)
Found a solution to the pesky power-window mechanical failure problem. Driver-side power window failed a couple of weeks back, after the rear left one last year. Concorde never has such pieces ever in stock (or quite likely they go bad so often that the stock never gets replenished), and take their own sweet time ordering it. Each replacement costs ~4K.

Dear BHPians,

I have a very peculiar issue ( or so it seems to me that is why addressing the experienced Safari Owners here ) with my Tata Safari VX 2.2 VTT DiCoR 2009 Model , that the power windows of the same when fully pulled up suddenly start sliding down as if someone is pressing the switch whereas no one is using the switch at that instant. This is happening in the front 2 power windows only & is very annoying especially since it is raining here in Delhi / Gurgaon & all of a sudden while you are driving you see the window has rolled down.Also while driving the seat belt alarm starts sounding even when the seat belt is firmly locked in its desired place by the steel buckle. It seems as if some thing has taken over the electrical systems & operating them without my inputs.

Another issue is with my central locking ( it is the one provided by TATA , i think MINDA make ) which has stopped working & i have to use the key to open / close the door manually.

Will request if some once share the learning curve having experienced the same at any time or if you can suggest some good electrician in Gurgaon as it seems to be an electrical issue which the regular ones are not able to diagnose.

Look forward to suggestions / other inputs on the same as well.

Regards

Gurjot

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gurjot (Post 4622373)
Dear BHPians,
while driving the seat belt alarm starts sounding even when the seat belt is firmly locked in its desired place.. .

You have a lose wiring at the buckle/lock which holds seat belt once locked, at the left of the driving seat. It will have brain and mood of its own to malfunction at will due to lose wiring.
Look down for a set of wires coming out of it. One of the terminals would have gone lose or will be rusted. Fix is mostly DIY. Take it out fix any lose terminals. Out everything back to its proper place, &/or spray a small amount of WD40 on it. Leave it for some time and you should be good.

Quote:

.
Another issue is with my central locking ( it is the one provided by TATA , i think MINDA make ) which has stopped working & i have to use the key to open / close the door manually. .
Lucky you, if your remote(s) lasted so long. I have already replaced 3 till now because of complete circuit failure of the earlier once. Have you tried replacing the batteries. I was told that these remotes lose their capacity to send signals to a longer range over a period of time due to weak batteries.
Look out for GP27 batteries and try to replace the one in your remote. Pic attached.The Tata Safari 2.2L Technical / Problems Thread-15633554482271214089411313902576.jpg

PS: VX comes with an immobilizer, how come you manage to start the vehicle even if locked with keys. Immobilizer activates automatically,
after some time, even when locked using keys. I have an EX. Which does not starts unless unlocked with remote; else, have to enter the security code if remote has failed completely.

I found a solution to the window glass winder issues. It worked for me for now. Don't know about the long term effects. You buy this: https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B00...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
It is some kind of rejuvenater for rubber and once applied seems to soften the rubber beadings. I have to try with suspension components next.
Took the advice from Schotky in Youtube. If regularly applied, this rubber protectant saves rubber components. I first tried with rubber bands and neoprene rubber washer I found in my toolkit. It was as if I found a new rubber washer.
Disclaimer: I have nothing to do with Amazon or Formula 1. I am just a satisfied user who wants to pass on useful information.

Quote:

Originally Posted by saurabh2711 (Post 4622410)

PS: VX comes with an immobilizer, how come you manage to start the vehicle even if locked with keys. Immobilizer activates automatically,
after some time, even when locked using keys. I have an EX. Which does not starts unless unlocked with remote; else, have to enter the security code if remote has failed completely.

This is interesting, What I was aware was that immobilizer chip is embedded in the physical key itself and does not need a battery. I would be concerned if that is not the case because once access is gained to the cabin of the car , one should be able to start the vehicle with the key regardless of the battery state in the remote. The keyless entry & Start system has a different setup I think.

Dear Saurabh2711,
Thanks for your reply, will do the seat belt DIY & then update.
Meanwhile as regards the central locking , your inout regarding the immobiliser is definitely correct , so my remote is working ( and yes i have replaced some 4 to 5 battery's till now in the same ) to unlock the immobiliser but the central locking mechanism which should be operating the actuators of the locks is not responding. Hence i first disable the immobiliser via the remote & then use the key to unlock the door ( that also each door individually ) . I m trying to meanwhile track the MINDA guy & see if something can be done. Regards Gurjot

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kosfactor (Post 4622835)
This is interesting, What I was aware was that immobilizer chip is embedded in the physical key itself and does not need a battery. I would be concerned if that is not the case because once access is gained to the cabin of the car , one should be able to start the vehicle with the key regardless of the battery state in the remote. The keyless entry & Start system has a different setup I think.

Dear Kosfactor,

Safari has the immobiliser by virtue of its remote & there is no chip embedded in the key as the same is fairly simple one & it seems they have done the retrofitting by adding the immobiliser ( somewhere in the product development cycle ) via the remote system. So to disable the immobilser one needs to unlock via the supplied remote or else the disarming kit & code ( given when you take the delivery of the beast )
Also i have a Swift Dzire - wherein the immobiliser as well as the remote is embedded in the key itself but the same also requires battery's if i m not wrong.

Regards
Gurjot

Dear BHPians.....especillay thanks to Saurabh 2711.

I took the same to a workshop here in sec 31 gurgaon & they replaced the relay for the power windows & same have started working fine now, let me see how long the solution lasts & will keep everyone posted.

Regards
Gurjot

Quote:

Originally Posted by saurabh2711 (Post 4622410)
.
Look out for GP27 batteries and try to replace the one in your remote. Pic attached..

A note about 27A and other lithium batteries. These are available in bulk from China. The price ranges from 30 cents a battery to 10 cents a battery, with almost all "accessory" shops importing the 10 cents type.

I would say just order from ebay/Aliexpress from sellers who have sold large numbers before your battery dies
Everyone should get them when you buy your car

5 batteries cost less than 3$ including shipping which is about 40rs/battery

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/5pcs...991028800.html

Hi Bhpians

I got my beast's suspension overhaul done recently. From them on, I'm seeing ABS light coming on after 15-20 min of drive. Switch off, start again and it goes off. Comes again some time. Any guess why?

Regards

Quote:

Originally Posted by sheelz (Post 4624422)
Hi Bhpians

I got my beast's suspension overhaul done recently. From them on, I'm seeing ABS light coming on after 15-20 min of drive. Switch off, start again and it goes off. Comes again some time. Any guess why?

Regards


If the sensors are not faulty, please have the O-ring / ABS ring on the wheels checked. Am not sure what the exact component is.



I have had this chronic issue with my 2.2 and have changed sensors with no luck. This is what I was told could be the issue.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sheelz (Post 4624422)
I got my beast's suspension overhaul done recently.

Will you please share the details and expenses? Thanks.


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