[burnout_boy]

sorry for the delayed responses (had a family medical emergency to take care of...)

Originally Posted by honeybee

A clutch plate leading to engine overheating? This again is a first. Did you ask him how it could happen?

Did you notice any clutch slippage around the times the engine overheated? Any problems climbing ascents or ramps? If the clutch plate had worn out, you should have experienced some of these issues. If you didn't, your clutch is absolutely fine.

A lot of times what I did observe is the engine would rev between gear changes, I don't know if this points to a failing clutch. I'd have to downshift while climbing ramps (for ex, in the office basement ramp, it would run out of steam on the 2nd gear by the time the car had reached the top of the ramp). Again, not sure if it is the clutch or the steepness of the ramp.

Originally Posted by Catalyst_delhi

I cant believe this , Did you check for overheat on idle? If the slow speed fan came on. The clutch cannot overheat the engine. the cooling system is built for slight overages. You can drive at 120 kms all day long without an overheat or do a track session for 30 mins without overheating. I am sure your mechanic is taking you for a nice ride.

I could only pick the car up on Wednesday night. Drove it home 12 kms, the temp needle was ok. Drove it to office (~ 20km round trip) and other small errands, and the temp needle was ok.

I am now constantly looking at the temp needle to the point of distraction :( A couple of times I felt the temp needle is slightly below where it normally used to be early on the cars life (need to check other ford ikons at work, maybe)

I will drive for some more days and then update the thread back here. I really can't say if the problem was the clutch (or maybe did the mechanic replace the radiator relay or the thermostat along with this? ie, i got a repair done of a part which probably did not need it). It does not overheat now like it earlier did...

[burnout_boy]

There is more to this saga...

The car ran fine - no overheating - for the next few days. Around 14th of September, it over-heated again, badly, the temp needle at almost max. I pulled over and after it cooled down, inspected the coolant tank. It was bone dry! I got hold of tap water from somewhere, poured it in, drove home, it was normal. I took it to a nearby garage (a different one), and asked him to drain out the water and fill it with coolant (after he exclaimed surprise that clutch plate problems was causing overheating).

The car ran fine till today, same problem! The coolant tank was bone dry! Luckily it just happened as I turned to my home, so I parked it and inspected the coolant tank and it was dry.

There are no obvious leaks from the coolant, ie, the basement floor where I park shows no signs of a leak. It seems that the coolant only leaks when the car is in motion!

I will take it to the nearby garage for inspection tomorrow. Is there some sort of a pipe/outlet at the coolant tanks base that is coming off during motion and thus the coolant leaks out?

Originally Posted by honeybee

A clutch plate leading to engine overheating? This again is a first. Did you ask him how it could happen?

Did you notice any clutch slippage around the times the engine overheated? Any problems climbing ascents or ramps? If the clutch plate had worn out, you should have experienced some of these issues. If you didn't, your clutch is absolutely fine.

Originally Posted by Catalyst_delhi

I cant believe this , Did you check for overheat on idle? If the slow speed fan came on. The clutch cannot overheat the engine. the cooling system is built for slight overages. You can drive at 120 kms all day long without an overheat or do a track session for 30 mins without overheating. I am sure your mechanic is taking you for a nice ride.

Originally Posted by burnout_boy

sorry for the delayed responses (had a family medical emergency to take care of...)

A lot of times what I did observe is the engine would rev between gear changes, I don't know if this points to a failing clutch. I'd have to downshift while climbing ramps (for ex, in the office basement ramp, it would run out of steam on the 2nd gear by the time the car had reached the top of the ramp). Again, not sure if it is the clutch or the steepness of the ramp.



I could only pick the car up on Wednesday night. Drove it home 12 kms, the temp needle was ok. Drove it to office (~ 20km round trip) and other small errands, and the temp needle was ok.

I am now constantly looking at the temp needle to the point of distraction :( A couple of times I felt the temp needle is slightly below where it normally used to be early on the cars life (need to check other ford ikons at work, maybe)

I will drive for some more days and then update the thread back here. I really can't say if the problem was the clutch (or maybe did the mechanic replace the radiator relay or the thermostat along with this? ie, i got a repair done of a part which probably did not need it). It does not overheat now like it earlier did...

[burnout_boy]

dumb question: where is the radiator cap in an Ikon? I recall my Esteem having it, but for the life of me, I can't locate the radiator cap...

Originally Posted by honeybee

Please also check (when the engine has been switched off for at least 15-20 minutes, or in the morning before a cold start) if the radiator cap is in good shape. If the cap is damaged, replace the same.

[Catalyst_delhi]

Originally Posted by burnout_boy

dumb question: where is the radiator cap in an Ikon? I recall my Esteem having it, but for the life of me, I can't locate the radiator cap...

It is a radiator bottle or a coolant bottle. it is to the left of the engine bay. The coolant should be pink. Please check your coolant bottle cap if it tightens. these are notorious for spinning. You need 15 PSI for the cooling system to work, Please check the radiator slow speed fan resistor.

coolant bottle with cap original - 1200 rupees
Radiator slow speed fans switch - 900 - 1500

hope this helps.

[kkg]

I had same kind of problem (coolant loss) in my Spark but thankfully it never got overheated. After a year of trail and error, the engine head was found to have a hairline crack resulting in coolant mixing with engine oil. It was fixed and its been around 2yrs and 25ks and there is no problem.

Open the engine oil cap and check if it has foam/froth on it (the inner ring on the cap). If yes, you have a big job to do.

[burnout_boy]

Originally Posted by Catalyst_delhi

It is a radiator bottle or a coolant bottle. it is to the left of the engine bay. The coolant should be pink. Please check your coolant bottle cap if it tightens. these are notorious for spinning. You need 15 PSI for the cooling system to work, Please check the radiator slow speed fan resistor.

coolant bottle with cap original - 1200 rupees
Radiator slow speed fans switch - 900 - 1500

hope this helps.

So after about 6 months of trouble free running, the problem seems to be back again...

First, what got replaced then...i have attached a photo of the part that got replaced...there was a leak in this part, which was causing the coolant to leak in about two-three weeks time, eventually emptying it out and making the engine temp needle swing all the way to the highest reading. Total cost: 2300 for the part, 300 for labor...this was back in October, and my apologies for never having responded to this thread then (despite taking the photo with the phone way back then :( :(

For the last two weeks now, even on short running, the radiator fan belt comes on and goes into the highest speed and make an awful noise. This happens after about 4-5 km of driving. I read in other threads that this is quite normal for an Ikon. But the temp needle is almost to 75%. And yet, the cooling from the AC is very nice, the AC never switches off, etc. When I switch the AC off, it falls down and settles at about 50%. Took it to the same mechanic and the problem never surfaced there, and the mechanic says - in Pune heat, this is normal and Ikon are known to run on the higher side. I have not driven the car much in the last few days. FWIW, the part that got replaced shows no outward signs of a leak or anything.

Any idea what could be going on? One of the other mechanics at the FNG did mention about the radiator switch being faulty, but the owner of the FNG said - no, its just the ambient heat which is acting up.

[Catalyst_delhi]

Originally Posted by burnout_boy

So after about 6 months of trouble free running, the problem seems to be back again...

. But the temp needle is almost to 75%. And yet, the cooling from the AC is very nice, the AC never switches off, etc. When I switch the AC off, it falls down and settles at about 50%. .

Do a slight pressure wash or air compressor cleaning of the condenser and radiator , on AC the fan should be always on at slow speed and intermittently at high speed. Washing the radiator and condensor on my ikon helps a lot.

How much was the part for for the benefit of all and was the temp sensor changed along with the housing.

[sandeepmohan]

Originally Posted by burnout_boy

I read in other threads that this is quite normal for an Ikon.

This is not normal. Check the functioning of the radiator fan slow speed. From a cold start, turn on the AC and the fan should spin up immediately. If it isn't, you are in trouble. Replacing the fan is a Rs. 7000 expenditure.

The engine temperature for a well maintained Ikon does no cross the half mark even in the hottest temperatures.

As suggested by another member, washing the radiator assembly will also help but not if the slow speed function of the radiator fan is dead.

[burnout_boy]

Originally Posted by sandeepmohan

This is not normal. Check the functioning of the radiator fan slow speed. From a cold start, turn on the AC and the fan should spin up immediately. If it isn't, you are in trouble. Replacing the fan is a Rs. 7000 expenditure.

The engine temperature for a well maintained Ikon does no cross the half mark even in the hottest temperatures.

As suggested by another member, washing the radiator assembly will also help but not if the slow speed function of the radiator fan is dead.

I started the car after about 3.5 days of non-usage. It was a cold start in the basement parking of my building. As soon as I started the car, I turned on the AC in the 1st speed setting; and immediately the radiator fan started spinning (verified this by opening the hood and pointing a torch at it). Left the car running for about 6 minutes, the radiator fan was still spinning, but not at the highest speed. Drove it in the basement (about 50m circle) and then switched off the AC, and within 15-20 seconds, the radiator fan stopped. Switched on the AC again, and again immediately the radiator fan started spinning. Turned off the AC, and the radiator fan stopped spinning. In this entire exercise, not once did I hear the highest speed setting of the radiator fan. Tomorrow, I need to travel to a different office (~ 12km one way), but at 8am. Will report back if the temp needle or the highest speed fan even turned on.

Originally Posted by Catalyst_delhi

Do a slight pressure wash or air compressor cleaning of the condenser and radiator , on AC the fan should be always on at slow speed and intermittently at high speed. Washing the radiator and condensor on my ikon helps a lot.

How much was the part for for the benefit of all and was the temp sensor changed along with the housing.

The part was for 2300 and 150 for installation, no temperature sensor was changed.

[ramzsys]

Originally Posted by burnout_boy

Tomorrow, I need to travel to a different office (~ 12km one way), but at 8am. Will report back if the temp needle or the highest speed fan even turned on.

How is the feel of the engine surface when the temperature is at 75% temperature in the scale?

[burnout_boy]

Originally Posted by ramzsys

How is the feel of the engine surface when the temperature is at 75% temperature in the scale?

to be honest, i dont exactly remember. but i seem to recall touching the hood and it felt more than warm. i'll make a note of this if it happens again.

[Catalyst_delhi]

It could be air bubbles or you have not bled the system , Very easy on ikon. As per service manual rev the engine in idle for about 2 mins for 3 k rpms. Keep an eye on the gauge , Do this after idling for 1 min on a cold start.

[sandeepmohan]

Originally Posted by burnout_boy

In this entire exercise, not once did I hear the highest speed setting of the radiator fan.

Going by what you report, the radiator fan is alright. A fault is ruled out here.

As suggested by catalyst, it could be air bubbles too. I used to notice this abnormal rise in engine temperature as soon as I get the car back from Ford service. A sure sign that they might have drained the entire coolant and refilled. As the trip distance from service center to home was in the region of just 3km, I never used to turn on the AC. However, the engine temperature would rise and cross the half point after which the high speed fan would turn on and stay on. The temperature levels would not come down. After parking the car in to my slot, I would rev the engine to about 2500 rpm and the temperature would drop to something like 30% in just half a minute and the fan would spin down or switch off completely. After this the temperature would stay at normal levels even if I were to drive at a later stage.

I did notice rust color on the thermostat housing you replaced. This should never be there. Next time around you might want to get Ford or the FNG to clean the water jackets around the engine block as there could be scale build up. This is a expensive job at Ford. Will be a lot cheaper at a FNG who knows what they are doing. Never ever fill tap water or mineral water into the radiator. If you can't find coolant, distilled water is preferred.

[burnout_boy]

Originally Posted by sandeepmohan

Going by what you report, the radiator fan is alright. A fault is ruled out here.

As suggested by catalyst, it could be air bubbles too. I used to notice this abnormal rise in engine temperature as soon as I get the car back from Ford service. A sure sign that they might have drained the entire coolant and refilled. As the trip distance from service center to home was in the region of just 3km, I never used to turn on the AC. However, the engine temperature would rise and cross the half point after which the high speed fan would turn on and stay on. The temperature levels would not come down. After parking the car in to my slot, I would rev the engine to about 2500 rpm and the temperature would drop to something like 30% in just half a minute and the fan would spin down or switch off completely. After this the temperature would stay at normal levels even if I were to drive at a later stage.

I did notice rust color on the thermostat housing you replaced. This should never be there. Next time around you might want to get Ford or the FNG to clean the water jackets around the engine block as there could be scale build up. This is a expensive job at Ford. Will be a lot cheaper at a FNG who knows what they are doing. Never ever fill tap water or mineral water into the radiator. If you can't find coolant, distilled water is preferred.

Well, i did get the car serviced two weeks ago! And he did change the coolant as part of it (ie, drain and refill). So the bubble thing could be a cause...

this morning i drove to work at 8:30am. and about 5-6km into the drive the high speed fan kicked in and the temp needle began to swing to the 50% mark (this drive was w/o the AC). Parked it at the office and around 4pm, went down to idle it for one min, and then stepped on the gas pedal for 2 min at 2500 rpm. At 5:30, drove 4km (w/o AC), no increase in temp. On the way back to office, switched on the AC, and near the office (~ 4km), the high speed fan kicked in. Went to the basement, parked, and revved the engine to 2500 rpm, and within 15-20 seconds, the high speed fan stopped and the temp dropped. At 9:30pm, started to drive back home (w/o AC) and about 5-6km into the drive, the high speed fan kicked in. Pulled over to the side, and revved to 2500 rpm and the high speed fan spun down and the temp needle dropped. Started driving again, and within a kilometre, high speed fan kicked in and temp started to increase. Again did the same thing, and again fan spun down and temp needle dropped. About 400m from the home, i turned on the AC too, and this time the temp needle went to 60-70%, but the AC was still cooling. Parked at the basement, and revved it (after turning off the AC) and fan spun down, and temp needle dropped. However, a minute later, the high speed fan kicked in again and temp needle began to increase, and again i revved it, and again it spun down and temp needle dropped. This happened two more times, before i switched off and came up home.

In short, every time the high speed fan kicks in, the temp needle increases, and when i rev it to 2500 rpm, in about 15-20 seconds, the high speed fan spins down and temp needle drops.

Should the high speed fan kick in even when the car is stationary? the part between the engine and the body did feel hot (but then, i dont usually know how hot it gets)

Originally Posted by Catalyst_delhi

Do a slight pressure wash or air compressor cleaning of the condenser and radiator , on AC the fan should be always on at slow speed and intermittently at high speed. Washing the radiator and condensor on my ikon helps a lot.

How much was the part for for the benefit of all and was the temp sensor changed along with the housing.

There is a car wash fella right next door and he does an engine power wash (or something like that where in he pops up the bonnet and gives it a nice power wash). Should I get that done too? Will that help? I'm afraid I do not quite understand getting only a slight power wash or air compressor cleaning of condenser and radiator.

[sandeepmohan]

Originally Posted by burnout_boy

Should the high speed fan kick in even when the car is stationary?

It should not. Can you please check if the slow speed fan is kicking in at all in non AC use. You will have to idle the engine, wait for the temperature to rise and watch if the slow speed fan is turning on. It can be heard. If you are unsure, just pop the hood and observe.

I suspect blocked water jackets around the engine block or a failing water pump Coolant is not circulating well enough. A higher rpm is required for more water pressure to be pushed into those clogged water jackets.

I would check the water pump too. Only a mechanic can do this.

Originally Posted by burnout_boy

Should I get that done too? Will that help? I'm afraid I do not quite understand getting only a slight power wash or air compressor cleaning of condenser and radiator.

The condenser and radiator are right up front. Its what you see behind the bumper grill where the Ford logo is and below it. The section below exposes more of the condenser and radiator components. Get this pressure washed well. A visual inspection is enough to tell you the condition of the condenser and radiator.

Be very careful washing the engine bay. You will have to cover the distributor before spraying the engine. The distributor is a box like thing that sits right behind the cylinder head cover. You see four wire leads coming off it which run to the spark plugs. This should not get wet. If it does, you are jacked. I used to wash the engine bay regularly. My car wash guy knew about it and thats how I knew about the distributor existence in that location.