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Can you tell if these were the suspension ball joint or the steering ball joint ?

Below can be used for reference.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/long-t...ml#post3650144

Is it B or D that were replaced on your car ?

Thanks.

It is B as in the image reference you shared, i.e. the suspension, lower arm ball joints, which connect the lower arm to the knuckle. When the ball joints are weak or have excessive play they tend to touch on the brake disc protector which gets pushed and touches the disc and produces the clunk or pop. Recently only I have replaced those with TRW ones, have ran 300-350 km on those. Lets see how much distance they last.

So i took the car to Honda today and got it looked at. They told me it is the shock absorbers and that i will have to replace them. It will cost 35k . However it will be at least a week until they have the part in stock.
I am too confused and do not know what to do.
Any advice?

35k for Shock absorbers ? I have the front suspension overhauled for 33.5k Which HASS is this? I hope not Soiltaire Honda Andheri? Suggest getting a second opinion. Look up a good independant garage. Take Hass report to them. If possible let us know for what these guys are asking so much for. A pair of complete front shocks would cost around 15-16K only original Honda Munjal. Whenever the price is high always take a second opinion. Don't give your car to these people.

Yes i dint give it to them . This is Arya Honda at dockyard road ( close to the eastern freeway ) I also found it a bit too much for shock absorbers.
Plus one problem that i have always faced with the car is the front bumper slightly coming out from the side. Just never stays in place.
Am taking the car to an independent garage soon.
Will post the details here about what they say.

Got the spare part price for the speedo from Honda. 11.5 k for the top cluster plus 900 for labour. There is a 5 day wait and i have to pay 50% upfront if it's determined that the speedo has to determined. Meanwhile bhpian devensoft confirmed if the speedo is kept disconnected the check engine light will remain on. I am hoping the issue is resolved without having to replace the cluster but with my kind of luck i am quite sure i am heading at another 13k drain on my wallet.

Get it hooked up to an OBD analyser! that will tell you why the Check Engine Light is on.

These days a CEL can come on because of electrical fault in the Speedometer circuits. Your ECU uses inputs from the wheel speed sensor for various engine functions (e.g. ignition timing) as well.

But its more likely to be a sensor, cable, connector or a wiring fault then the speedometer itself. I'm not even sure that a fault in the speedometer unit itself would generate a CEL, would be good to check the workshop manual for that.

There is two ways to go aboutthis
1) hit or miss: you replace the part that is not functioning and see if that solves it

2) Do a real diagnosis: Hook it up to a, preferably car/model specific OBD reader/analyzer. The error code will be a much better indicator what is going on.

Good luck and let us know what you find

Jeroen

My car came back from servicing a few weeks back with the SRS Airbag light on.
Any idea why?

Fellow BHPians, today while checking the underbody of my Honda Civic 2007 AT, I found some leakage, I am not sure what it is, I am attaching some pics and a video would request your feedback on what it should be and what shall i do if it is anything serious.








Friends video could not be uploaded its a mp4 format could you pls suggest.

Kindly match the color of the oil with oil from the following

Engine Oil
Clutch Fluid
Brake Fluid
Power steering fluid.

I hope you know how to check the oil levels in the above components.

Take car to Hass if any of the fluids are below min requirments. Tow it or put it on flat bed incase engine oil etc are low as it's not safe to use the car with low oil in any of the above components.

Edit: Is the leakage towards the end of the car near the exhast tail ?

Hi Thanks for the reply, the leak is near the front left tyre. It doesn't feel like oil but like water. Any suggestions.?

I completely forgot about the coolant. Kindly check the reservoir and the radiator hose etc for leaks when the car is cold.

That looks like AC water to me.
To confirm, wait for like 10-15 mins to see if water dripping stops.

Front left tyre = AC drain. Nothing to worry about. All you need to check is that it isn't oil.


There is no problem with the cooling, just the airflow. That too occasionally. I haven't faced the problem in the last few days. I'll replace the same and check.

My V-AT has completed 50,000 kms today. Even today when I take her out, it puts a smile on my face. Even though there are no major issues, I wanted to fix a few niggles and require advice.

1. The gear shift has become hard off late. Even though it shifts smoothly, I have to put a little bit extra pressure to move it from P to D. (I guess DSG has spoilt me). Any way to get this back to original smoothness?

2. The original leather seats have started to smell a bit (I park under hot sun everyday). Can a 3M treatment fix this?

3. The gear indicator on the S mode has stopped working. Is this repairable or do I need to change the entire console?

4. There is a cloud on the headlight lens. I tried cleaning with a headlight cleaner, buffed it, used kitchen surface cleaner but nothing helped clear the lens. This makes the already weak headlights weaker. Is changing the entire set my only option? This will be an expensive option.

5. The engine noise has increased a bit over time. Even though it is not earth shattering, should I be worried? Anything specific that can be done?

Appreciate feedback as I did not want to go blindly to the A.S.S and be misled or spend unnecessarily.

Thanks in advance.