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Yeah. Shouldn't be a problem as long as the authenticity of the part is verified.

Could you help me in understanding what the part actually looks like, i mean the exact picture of the 'part'.

This is one picture from our forum.



Source - http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/long-t...new-tyres.html

Hi all, need an urgent help, my 2007 AT (oh! the tantrums of a pre-owned car!! ), there seems to be an issue w.r.t the fuel. within 5 kms, 2 indicator bars are dropping (which means a FE of 1.25 kmpl, which can't be possible) , i am suspecting a leak, though on inspection of the car underside reveals no trace of oil on floor.
What could be the possible issues?
And how much damage in Rs in case of various scenarios?

Easy there.

1. That's no method to measure fuel efficiency. Use a tankful to tankful method to measure. If you don't know how to do that, search.

2. The civic uses a non-linear fuel gauge so 2 bars can mean anywhere between 3 to 6 liters of fuel IIRC, depending on the fuel level inside the tank.

P.S.: Do you also judge people and life as quickly as you did your car? (Just kidding, don't take it personally)

I second ajslave above. Especially close to empty, the gauge tends to show plus or minus one bar, if the car is at an incline.

And, do you smell a fuel leak?

1 bar means close to 2 litres so caculate accordingly and use full tank to full tank method.

Thanks but none answers the query, I do not smell fuel leak, its just that bars are dropping very quickly. I do not encounter any leakage under the body of the car, also the FNG is full to capacity so not able to inspect there, however i have to go ultimately there only.

Start the car and in idle with parking brake on get under hood and see or try to smell any leaking fuel. Look under engine and under rear seat under the car as the fuel strainer or the fuel filter is located there. Check if any fuel leakage under these 2 areas.

Iam posting this so that it could be of help to civic/accord owners. I had a starting problem with my accord. It would start sometimes and would not start if left idle for more than 24 hours. The battery was a 45 amphr matrix battery and was less than 3years old. I got it charged at least twice second time through boost charging. I personally checked the specific gravity of the battery fluid after charging. The car started and performed well for my daily ride. However issue persisted after i kept my car idle for 24 hours. There was no sound of the motor turning just a click sound. I managed to start by putting the car in gear and turning the key.
Got the starter opened. The solenoid switch was dismantled. The contacts were worn out. However at some points contact was made and with higher battery charge it was able to start. The garage said it was difficult to get the contacts. He asked me to try and find on my own. I visited a shop specializing in electrical 's and he suggested the contacts of the toyota qualis . They were not a exact match but managed. The car is doing good now.

Have you tried filling up the tank, drive for say at least 100 kms and then refill it to check the FE and the quantity of fuel spent ? That should be a good indicator of whether you are losing fuel rapidly(due to a possible fuel leak) or if its just an issue with the gauge. Maybe worth a try before you go to the FNG. My two cents.

Have the same problem, if revved hard. Does not happen above 110/120 if acceleration is not hard/revved agressively. Its an AT. Have searched for a solution in various forums, but no concrete answer.
It started once when i drag raced it.
HASS says everything is fine. Living with it as of now.
Done 95K kms.

Rgds

It might be the smell of carbon built up in the engine/exhaust system.

If that's the case, Decarbonization may help. Take an informed opinion from an FNG/expert before you take any action though.

One way to reduce (if not prevent) carbon build up in the engine is by using the engine in its entire RPM range. Engines that are run at lower RPMs for prolonged periods (example: excessive city usage) tend to accumulate more carbon.

This seems to be a case of corrosion at some place in the car body. The metal body. There's a chink in your armour ;) . Because logically, whatever the cause of the smell, it should not be entering the passenger compartment. Period. Unless you experience the thing with your windows rolled down. Maybe somewhere in the firewall or then most probably at the rear side of the car. Because it's from the rear where exhaust gases most easily enter the cabin. You'd better get this checked by some clever guy because, on second thoughts, if this is in fact exhaust gases, then you are essentially breathing carbon monoxide which is hazardous! Kind of like a suicide situation. Get the drift mate?

Like Vineet has mentioned in his post, it happens only when she's revved hard. Not when I gradually take her up the curve. There is no corrosion on the underbody or inside at the rear because I haven't noticed anything amiss when the rear seats were taken off last week for damping.

Engine de-carbonizing is something I am contemplating.