[Ponkermania]

Originally Posted by sumeethaldankar

Flywheel need not be replaced and can be skimmed.The flywheel alone costs 11-15K. It will cost around 500- 1200 bucks at HASS for skimmimg. I had my clutch overhauled from a local garage for 13.7 K approx. I did not change the flywheel.

I didn't know you could skim the flywheel, I was told by a tuner that doing so could result in the risk of the flywheel shattering on hard acceleration.

Thanks for the info, you've probably saved me a lot of money on an Accord flywheel!

[laluks]

Originally Posted by sumeethaldankar

Are these Hass prices or after market?If after market what was the brand name.

Aftermarket. Fan Motor is Denso, same as the OEM part.

[prits_moh]

i have a question on flushing requirement (ive read carbible and the likes but no conclusions drawn on requirement. sorry if im repeating this question).
For the last 7 years my Civic 1.8V AT was being 'oil chaged' at HASS (Dakshin,Magnum). This time ive decided to start with Mobil 1 0w40 - safely assuming the engine life will be prolonged. My question is do i need to do a flush ? Any advise from anybody who has NOT done in a similar situation and regretted it (lessons learnt kinds). Thanks,

[Ponkermania]

Originally Posted by prits_moh

i have a question on flushing requirement (ive read carbible and the likes but no conclusions drawn on requirement. sorry if im repeating this question).
For the last 7 years my Civic 1.8V AT was being 'oil chaged' at HASS (Dakshin,Magnum). This time ive decided to start with Mobil 1 0w40 - safely assuming the engine life will be prolonged. My question is do i need to do a flush ? Any advise from anybody who has NOT done in a similar situation and regretted it (lessons learnt kinds). Thanks,

I haven't personally changed oils, but, do a simple risk-benefit analysis. What does the oil flush cost you, and what are the expenses you are risking by not doing it? The flush won't cost much, and it's better for your own peace of mind.

If I were you, I would do it, simply because the VTEC system relies on unblocked holes in the cam shaft, and on the correct oil pressure at the correct time, to engage the high lift profile across all valves. Even a minute disruption in those could cause damage, especially if some cylinders have VTEC engaged and some don't (very low probability of that happening, but why risk it).

[sumeethaldankar]

Originally Posted by prits_moh

i have a question on flushing requirement (ive read carbible and the likes but no conclusions drawn on requirement. sorry if im repeating this question).
For the last 7 years my Civic 1.8V AT was being 'oil chaged' at HASS (Dakshin,Magnum). This time ive decided to start with Mobil 1 0w40 - safely assuming the engine life will be prolonged. My question is do i need to do a flush ? Any advise from anybody who has NOT done in a similar situation and regretted it (lessons learnt kinds). Thanks,

Actually though i haven't used Hass synthetic oil, it's much cheaper and as good as Mobil.I really don't see why you need to switch the more expensive Mobile and can continue with the Idemitsu oil supplied by Hass which in the end is OE.Anyways up to you.

[laluks]

Got a complete suspension check today after I had observed some alignment issues with the rear tyres. They were wearing off fast from the inside. Camber had gone for a toss.

Need to change all the bushes of the rear - some 5K. Also the shocks had gone weak, so replacing them as well - 9K. Also the rear link ends - 9K.

Engine bedding at the bottom has took a toll, also the Gear box bedding. Both are cut, 5K and 8K

Asked the, to check the front suspensions as well. Would go in for a change along with shocks if required. All new components would cost approx 60K.

Planning to get all OEM and do it in a FNG. Don't want to hunt around for after market ones.

[sumeethaldankar]

Originally Posted by laluks

Got a complete suspension check today after I had observed some alignment issues with the rear tyres. They were wearing off fast from the inside. Camber had gone for a toss.

Need to change all the bushes of the rear - some 5K. Also the shocks had gone weak, so replacing them as well - 9K. Also the rear link ends - 9K.

Engine bedding at the bottom has took a toll, also the Gear box bedding. Both are cut, 5K and 8K

Asked the, to check the front suspensions as well. Would go in for a change along with shocks if required. All new components would cost approx 60K.

Planning to get all OEM and do it in a FNG. Don't want to hunt around for after market ones.

60K at FNG . Time and again frankly it has been proved that the Civic is expensive car to maintain.Since you are getting the entire suspension overhauled is it possible to see if you can get the shocks of the newer upgraded model where the shocks were stiffer than the pre-2009 models.

I had my Civic's front suspension overhauled for around 33.7k I haven't touched the rear yet.Whenever new shocks are installed they take time to settle down and the car appears a bit raised than before.However even after driving around 1k kms i find that the car stills appears a bit more raised at the front than before.Maybe i got the newer stiffer shocks but not sure.

[laluks]

Originally Posted by sumeethaldankar

60K at FNG . Time and again frankly it has been proved that the Civic is expensive car to maintain.Since you are getting the entire suspension overhauled is it possible to see if you can get the shocks of the newer upgraded model where the shocks were stiffer than the pre-2009 models.

I had my Civic's front suspension overhauled for around 33.7k I haven't touched the rear yet.Whenever new shocks are installed they take time to settle down and the car appears a bit raised than before.However even after driving around 1k kms i find that the car stills appears a bit more raised at the front than before.Maybe i got the newer stiffer shocks but not sure.

The components are sourced from HASS, only labour is at FNG to make sure they do it properly, hence the cost. Secondly I decided to replace most of it.

I decided against roaming around for aftermarket components as I simply did not have the time and patience. What bothered me always was the workmanship at HASS, not component quality. Probably I could have obtained the components at 50% if I had hunted for it outside, but at this scale of overhauling it was just too many to source! I saw Moog has it available online, but all these components costs something like 900-1200$. Also I saw they have a full bushing kit for 220$. If its just the bushing issues this could be a better choice!

The front includes 2 tie rod ends, 2 ball joints, 2 link ends, 2 lower arms and 2 shocks. I thought I'll change to Koni's or bilsteins like that, but decided against it. If the stock can run 1.22 lakhs km so be it. 60K is an approximation

[sgiitk]

Originally Posted by sumeethaldankar

Actually though i haven't used Hass synthetic oil, it's much cheaper and as good as Mobil.I really don't see why you need to switch the more expensive Mobile and can continue with the Idemitsu oil supplied by Hass which in the end is OE.Anyways up to you.

I have been on the OE Idemitsu since November 2011. In the first change (6 months) I used Mobil1 and then switched to the OE at the next annual change, and did not notice any difference whatsoever. In fact the OE with SAE30 top may be somewhat preferable to the SAE40 top of Mobil1. Only thing is while OE is API-SM Mobil1 and co are API-SN! The spec calls for API-SL or higher.

[1lokesh]

Originally Posted by Arun Venugopal

Am not at all surprised by the HASS quote, is on expected lines and negotiating with HASS is of no use anyways. They do not budge from listed prices in my experience.

Can you share Jatin's number by a PM. Please also let me know if you find any other option.

Thanks

Hi Arun, Can't PM you since apparently Newbies can't

But here in this thread --> http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/mumbai...kz-mumbai.html you will find all the details of wagenwerkz

Do let me know in case you get a lead. I'm also looking out for a reliable FNG.

Cheers!

[sumeethaldankar]

Originally Posted by sumeethaldankar

Got the clutch replaced. Below are details for same. Oil only 2.5 litres of transmission oil was filled in.Clutch used was of Daikin make.

Had a lousy experience with Pai motors Santacruz.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...ml#post3623867

Bad news is the clutch overhaul is not needed but only the clutch master and slave cylinder is needed to be changed.Found this out the hard way and now i have to part with 18K more as car is in Honda for the slave issue and also the leakage in axle boot due to improper fitment by Pai motors when overhauling the clutch.I also have a slight engine oil leak , which Honda as diagnosed with a oil seal failure.I will put in more details once i get the car back.

[biju1971]

This is a peculiar problem i face in my accord and trying to decipher it.
There is lot of rattling and bouncing in the rear which i feel is due to something wrong in the suspension.However this rattling even at the smallest of unevenness or potholes in the road is only there early in the morning when it is quite cold.However when i have parked the car outside and take it out in the afternoon when it is hot the car just glides through everything and i cant hear a noise from the suspension.So i just got the mechanic to open the rear suspension.He found nothing wrong except some small traces of oil from one of the shockers.Got that replaced.There was no noise for 2-3 days and then the rattling noise back on a cold morning.some theories i can think of.
1.the shocker has been filled with a thick fluid which thins out by afternoon and helps in the shock absorption. Iam not sure about the origin of the shockers ,however it had honda marking.
2.other rubber components also become softer and help out.
3.this is a theory given by the mechanic.I have a cng tank fitted.He says the spring becomes weak over a period of time.The length of the spring is not correct and recommends putting a spacer.If the length of the coil spring is not correct,the rattling should happen at all times.
Suggestions welcome as iam planning to get it opened again tomorrow.

[jatinpatel]

Originally Posted by 1lokesh

Hi Arjun, I called up jatin from wagenwerkz today in the evening to get an estimate of the mentioned jobs. He will get the car collected in a day or two to get a thorough inspection done. In the meanwhile will also ask the HASS in Nerul for the quote. Will keep you posted.



Wagenwerkz seems to be good but let's wait for jatin to revert.



Cheers!

Hi Lokesh


I have emailed you the quote and also messages you the same.

And also there's simply no power steering oil leak in your car
ASS is trying to con you.


Thanks

[sumeethaldankar]

To all Bhpians who are/were facing the engine mount issue.I had a word with a service adviser yesterday who told me that Honda has changed the engine mount design (around 3-4 times) and the newest mount is holding better than the original design.I had put in a after market mount and it became weak within 2 months.

As per the service advisor the mount's original design had a flaw which they tried to rectify.He showed me around 3-4 different part nos for the same engine mount which means several different versions were made before they seemed to have eradicated the design flaw.So if you guys were to go to Honda to change the mount,do make sure you have the latest version.Tell them you have learnt there are several designs and you want only the latest one.

[srsriharsha]

If possible can you post the part number so that it will be helpful to identify the latest version