[R2D2]

Originally Posted by sumeethaldankar

I am trying to source Liqui Moly 5W30 for my Civic's next oil change but currently it is unavailable on Amazon. The next available options from the same brand (as I want to try Liqui Moly) are 0W40 and 5W40. Which of these will better for the Civic? Price difference between the two is not much.

There's not much of a difference so either one would do, but I'd prefer the 5W-40. Unless you are specific about Liqui Moly why don't you try other oils such as Mobil 1 ESP which is 5W-30 or Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 with both available on Amazon?

[sumeethaldankar]

Originally Posted by R2D2

There's not much of a difference so either one would do, but I'd prefer the 5W-40. Unless you are specific about Liqui Moly why don't you try other oils such as Mobil 1 ESP which is 5W-30 or Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 with both available on Amazon?

Mobil 1 5W30 retails at 5.1k while the Liqui Moly ones retail around 4k. I have tried Shell Helix 5W40 but in my perception I found the OE oil to be much smoother than the Shell. Since I have read good reviews on the Liqui Molly I wanted to try that out since they are in the same price range as the Shell.

[ashishrathi88]

Originally Posted by ashishrathi88

Meanwhile, I've sent a mail (as attached) to HCIL Customer Relations team regarding the case.

Let's see what they have to say through official channel.

Below is the mail I have received just now from Honda Service HQ team regarding the correct engine oil grade for our FD1 Civic.

"This has reference to your trailing mail regarding the engine oil grade.

We thank you for writing us and sharing your feedback.

With regards to your query, we wish to inform you that oil is a major contributor to the car engine's performance and longevity. Hence , it is highly recommended to use genuine Honda Motor oil.

Specific to your query, we wish to inform you that the Synthetic oil is used in the vehicle for better performance . While 5W 30 grade mineral oil (semi synthetic) was recommended for the earlier Civic 1.8 L engines and still is, owned by you, however with the introduction of synthetic oil, we have provided an option of a lesser viscous 0W 20 grade oil which provides easier cold starts during winters than the 5W 30, while maintaining the same viscosity at higher operating temperatures.


Hence 0W 20 grade synthetic oil is tested and recommended for all Domestic Honda Car models (Starting from 1998 and for later models) and is a super-session option to 5W 30 (mineral oil).

However, you can always switch back to the earlier spec oil at any point of time. Please provide a special request to dealer for using the earlier spec oil during your next visit, if you desire so"

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by ashishrathi88

Below is the mail I have received just now from Honda Service HQ team regarding the correct engine oil grade for our FD1 Civic.

Thanks for sharing this.

My tuppence below:

With regards to your query, we wish to inform you that oil is a major contributor to the car engine's performance and longevity. Hence , it is highly recommended to use genuine Honda Motor oil.

Not surprised to see this. They'd obviously push OEM oil as much as possible.

Specific to your query, we wish to inform you that the Synthetic oil is used in the vehicle for better performance . While 5W 30 grade mineral oil (semi synthetic) was recommended for the earlier Civic 1.8 L engines and still is, owned by you, however with the introduction of synthetic oil, we have provided an option of a lesser viscous 0W 20 grade oil which provides easier cold starts during winters than the 5W 30, while maintaining the same viscosity at higher operating temperatures.

Errr..wasn't the 5W-30 also synthetic? I could see synthetic written on the Idemitsu oil can depicted on the web site at an address shared previously on this thread.

As for 0W-20 that's all very good in moderate climates in the temperate zones. Will it work in hot tropical S/SE Asia or the Middle East? If 0W-20 was kosher why wasn't it printed in the manual back when the car was sold. The reason I ask this question is because the customer is responsible for any damage caused to an out of warranty car.

Oh well, you could opt for 0W-20 synthetic try it out and change over to 5W-30 if not satisfied with the performance.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by sumeethaldankar

I am trying to source Liqui Moly 5W30 for my Civic's next oil change but currently it is unavailable on Amazon. The next available options from the same brand (as I want to try Liqui Moly) are 0W40 and 5W40. Which of these will better for the Civic? Price difference between the two is not much.

You can order from this site too. I have ordered from them in the past and had a nice experience. The shipping is a bit delayed though.

https://www.landroverlab.com/in/p/MO...ON-5W-30-4L/56

Regards,
Shashi

[rr_zen]

Originally Posted by ashishrathi88

Below is the mail I have received just now from Honda Service HQ team regarding the correct engine oil grade for our FD1 Civic.

"This has reference to your trailing mail regarding the engine oil grade.

We thank you for writing us and sharing your feedback.

With regards to your query, we wish to inform you that oil is a major contributor to the car engine's performance and longevity. Hence , it is highly recommended to use genuine Honda Motor oil.

Specific to your query, we wish to inform you that the Synthetic oil is used in the vehicle for better performance . While 5W 30 grade mineral oil (semi synthetic) was recommended for the earlier Civic 1.8 L engines and still is, owned by you, however with the introduction of synthetic oil, we have provided an option of a lesser viscous 0W 20 grade oil which provides easier cold starts during winters than the 5W 30, while maintaining the same viscosity at higher operating temperatures.


Hence 0W 20 grade synthetic oil is tested and recommended for all Domestic Honda Car models (Starting from 1998 and for later models) and is a super-session option to 5W 30 (mineral oil).

However, you can always switch back to the earlier spec oil at any point of time. Please provide a special request to dealer for using the earlier spec oil during your next visit, if you desire so"

Was it not 0W30 Idemitsu synthetic oil that was being filled in at HASS ? I can recall earlier discussions in this very thread that confirm it to be 0W30.

So with the above response from Honda, does it mean that I can still ask for 0W30 synthetic to be filled in like before instead of the 0W20 promoted now? I am not sure how many dealers would stock up 0W30 with the move to 0W20. Besides, the customer has no way of verifying if the oil filled in is 0W30 or 0W20. My car is due for an oil change and am still not convinced with the response from Honda so in a dilemma here.

[coolkurt]

Originally Posted by rr_zen

My car is due for an oil change and am still not convinced with the response from Honda so in a dilemma here.

Same here. Any idea when this switch was done? Last I got my car serviced in March and I didn't bother to check the oil then. I've had no noticeable performance issues. Anyone already tested the 0W20? It's going to be a problem as I genuinely don't trust HASS ( Southend Honda, Mathura Road). It took me half a day to convince them that all I wanted was a AC relay replacement last time.

[WasavaTyres]

Gentlemen, does anyone have a list of all the different kinds of bulbs (with wattage) that go into a 8th Gen civic ? I found a list on 8thcivic but I'm unsure if it's the same on our cars.

[ashishrathi88]

Originally Posted by WasavaTyres

Gentlemen, does anyone have a list of all the different kinds of bulbs (with wattage) that go into a 8th Gen civic ? I found a list on 8thcivic but I'm unsure if it's the same on our cars.

Low beam : HB4/9006 (51W)
High beam : HB3/9005 (60W)
Fog lamps : H11 (55W)
Parking Lamps : T10 (5W for Halogen type and 1W for LED type)

I've attached pics of the ones I've put as direct replacement as I did not wanted to fiddle with the OEM wiring.

[saket77]

Some electronics are again malfunctioning on my Civic. I performed the gauge cluster diagnostics which is built into the Civic's MID. You can perform the test by following the given sequence:

1. Push and hold the trip/reset button.
2. Turn the lighting switch ON.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON.
4. Within 5 seconds, turn the light switch OFF, then ON, then Off again.
5. Within 5 seconds, release the trip/reset button, then push and release 4 times more.

The odometer has to be in mileage mode and not in the trip mode. All dash lights will blink continuously and the RPM needle will do a complete sweep and then display any errors if there is a communication failure between any of the modules.

Now Honda has 2 main communication modules that run the entire system and report to the Gauge control module. First is the F-CAN and the other is B-CAN. CAN means Controller Area Network.

F-CAN relates to all realtime information modules like fuel injection, emissions, etc which are very critical and hence the network bus is faster. The B-CAN is slower of the two and control other lesser important functionality like climate control, outside temperature sensor and indicator, door locks, the head unit/ stereo etc.

Coming back to the sweep test/ gauge diagnostics, if the MID displays Error 1, then it signals a communication failure between the Gauge control module and the F-CAN while Error 2 relates to the B-CAN.

My car was tested with HDS (Honda Diagnostics System) at HASS and it showed errors relating to the body control module. The gauge diagnostic which I performed at home threw error 2, indicating problem in the same module. My problem is intermittent, means the climate control, HVAC and the key-in reminder fail to trigger at certain times.

Now, the possible causes of this failure can be:

1. Faulty/ poor grounding
2. Open in wire
3. Loose contact at some joint or coupler
3. Faulty Gauge control module which means replacement of entire speedo panel.

I am still reading more on it and trying to solve my issue. Will keep you guys posted about more on this. In case someone has a clue, please chip in with details.

Regards,
Saket.

[Leoshashi]

Originally Posted by saket77

Some electronics are again malfunctioning on my Civic.

Attaching some pictures and a video which might help the members in understanding the issue better.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enrHwMc5Qvk

Regards,
Shashi

[sumeethaldankar]

Originally Posted by saket77

1. Faulty/ poor grounding
2. Open in wire
3. Loose contact at some joint or coupler

I am hoping it's just a loose wire somewhere. Is it rainy season over there btw? Mositure would play havoc with my instrument cluster and my top speedo console would simply stop displaying or flicker. Honda said the only way to fix it was to change the console which I refused. The console display would start after dis-connecting and re-connecting the battery.

Last year somehow I did not notice this problem repeat most probably after the rat attack my car faced the engine wiring was opened to be rebuilt. Maybe the mechanics found some loose connection or gap which lead to the moisture and fixed it. Touch wood the problem has not repeated again. Also I had a new battery installed last year.

I suppose could your issue be due faulty battery cables/terminal connector eg like in below. Also how old is your battery ?

http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/light...nside-out.html

http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/mecha...ery-going.html

@All which of the oil is thinner 5W30 or 0W40. Liqui Moly 5W 30 is now available on Amazon and I am thinking of ordering same.

[R2D2]

Originally Posted by sumeethaldankar

I am hoping it's just a loose wire somewhere. Is it rainy season over there btw? Mositure would play havoc with my instrument cluster and my top speedo console would simply stop displaying or flicker. Honda said the only way to fix it was to change the console which I refused. The console display would start after dis-connecting and re-connecting the battery.

I think I had mentioned elsewhere in this thread about a decade old car requiring a detailed once over of its wiring and connectors. Moisture, loose connections, rust, corrosion & physical damage affect electrical circuits (and electronics) severely.

Vehicle electronics also act flaky over time but it is better to eliminate wiring problems first as that is mostly the root cause of electrical and electronic issues. Start with the alternator B+ post and work your way backwards through the wiring towards the alternator fuse, battery clamps, and then on to other (problematic) circuits in the car. Quality of ground/earthing connectivity is equally important.

@All which of the oil is thinner 5W30 or 0W40. Liqui Moly 5W 30 is now available on Amazon and I am thinking of ordering same.

At operating temperature 5W-30 is thinner than 0W-40. You need to decipher multigrade oil values as such: XW-Y, where X is the viscosity value when cold and Y which is the viscosity value when hot/at operating temperature.

[saket77]

Thanks guys for your suggestions. @Sumeet: Yes, it's been raining here continuously for 5 days. Some respite since yesterday. Moisture issue is definitely on my mind.

@R2D2: totally agree. But finding someone to do this job is difficult. HASS guys are definitely least interested in such stuff and most FNGs here are not capable of handling a car like Cjvic with complex electronics.

Ok, update time.

I decided to get my hands dirty this time and checked all fuses in the engine bay first. All ok.

Then I targeted the MICU, which is along with the fuse/ relay box under the steering wheel near the driver's footwell. First took off the fiber trims along the running board, footwell area and the complete Dash trim under the steering wheel. This made some space to work with the MICU.

First checked all fuses in this area too and found all to be okay. Then With the key in the key cylinder, I started pulling out the multi connectors one by one. I found that the last of the 3 broad coupler connectors power the affected module. The key in reminder alarm which was silent until this time started sounding while I was disconnecting the third connector. The rhythm of the alarm kept changing signalling loose/ intermittent contact with this harness coupler until I pulled out the coupler. Obviously it stopped after pulling it out completely.

Checked voltages as per the service manual and grounding continuities with all wires and they looked okay to me. And then I noticed one slightly corroded contact point in the coupler. Cleaned it, sanded lightly by putting in a small rolled up sand paper. Cleans other contacts too and fitted them back one by one.

Since then, the problem has not re-occurred and I'm hoping it remains that way. I'm not sure if this was the issuer, but I will post the results when it becomes conclusive by test of time.

Posting some pictures of the job:



The harness coupler- the third point was corroded.


The 3 coupler harness of the MICU:


The coupling points of the MICU harness:


The gauge diagnostic test run after clearing the Error 2:

https://youtu.be/D-EmulE3npw

Thanks!

[WasavaTyres]

Originally Posted by ashishrathi88

Parking Lamps : T10 (5W for Halogen type and 1W for LED type)

I already have 9005/9006/and H8 LED bulbs on my ride. Was looking to change the indicatore and brake / parking lights to LED. Do not know the base names, so difficult to order accordingly.