Recently changed the clutch on my Forester. Documenting it here because it may be useful to fellow wayfarers...
This replacement was something I'd been meaning to do ever since I bought the car last year, due largely to the stiff nature of the clutch. There'd been a wee bit of clutch slippage in the past month but I thought I'd wait until it gave up completely on me. As luck would have it, my hand was forced just before Diwali when I got stranded on MG Road (!). (Ultimately, it turned out to be not a clutch failure and the effective DIY solution for
that issue took all of 10 minutes but we'll save that story for another day...).
Trident Chevy quoted approx 30K for the clutch and ~50k (!) for the flywheel + a lead time of at least 2.5 weeks for parts to arrive. Not gonna happen. I'd been researching about the clutch kit earlier and knew that the Exedy KSB04 sold on Amazon for the 2.5 lt NA Foresters for the US market should fit the EJ20 2.0 lt NA Forester too. The FSM lists *identical* specs for all parameters (clutch type, clutch disc thickness, inner and outer diameter, spline diameter, no. of spline teeth etc) for 2.0 L Non-turbo and 2.5 L LHD Non-turbo. My earlier enquiries with Exedy USA and Exedy Japan and on sf.org weren't fruitful in confirming the suitability of the KSB04 clutch kit for the EJ20 engine. Ordering thru CASS just wasn't an option since that would take at least 3 weeks. So, without "official" blessing I took a calculated risk and went ahead and ordered the kit on Amazon. Shipping was via expedited/priority courier and package arrived superfast: ordered on a Tuesday; package reached Bangalore on Thursday night by DHL but because of the Diwali weekend, delivered home only on the following Monday.
The KSB04 clutch kit is the real deal. Exedy is *the* OEM clutch kit supplier for Subaru. Both clutch cover and clutch disc are made in Japan and are obviously of high quality.
Had the kit installed at Trident Chevy. Armed with the FSM and a couple of very good DIY tutorials -
DIY: Clutch Replacement pictorial and another here
Joel's Diy Clutch Install, oversaw the whole install, making sure that everything was done by the book, down to tightening all key nuts and bolts with a torque wrench to Subaru-specified torque values. Full credit to the mechanic, Mr. Y, for doing a first-rate job. He even cleaned up the fuel filter and the IAC valve as a bonus!
The KSB04 kit:
And inside... the Clutch cover box:
Clutch disc box:
The disc:
Disc, up close - Made in Japan:
Clutch cover - quite heavy!:
Clutch cover, up close - Made in Japan:
Clutch cover - other side:
Release bearing, pilot bearing, high temp grease and disc alignment tool:
Release bearing, up close:
There was a set of Exedy stickers in the box too
:
Ok, now for some install pix.
Exhaust headers and front section down:
The propeller shaft needs to come down too:
Next gearbox comes down. A shot of the old release bearing seated on the release fork:
The old clutch assembly on the engine:
Old clutch is out and we remove the flywheel too for inspection:
This flywheel is still in great shape - no scouring or uneven wear. It will last for at least another 100000 km.
Old release bearing alongside the new:
Finally, the new clutch is fitted, carefully employing the Exedy alignment tool:
All bolts/nuts on the exhaust headers/pipe, prop shaft, clutch assembly, gearbox and engine pitching stopper were tightened to Subaru specs with a torque wrench.
Kudos to Trident Chevy, especially the Mech, for doing a great install job. Very happy with the new clutch performance. Clutch has become a little softer, pickup has improved noticeably, and the gearshift is a little smoother too.
With a new clutch, the pedal engagement point becomes uncomfortably high. I executed a DIY job with help from the FSM after about a week to adjust the pedal play and it's now perfect.
Quote:
Originally Posted by WRXXX Wow...@IcarusMan, where was this done?
Are you happy with the work?
...
Also, if the leak is from the crankshaft seal it did not require engine to be opened up? (sorry if I am sounding like a dummy... because I am :-) in these matters) |
Very satisfied with the install work. I had the rear differential oil level checked too. The only fly in the ointment was that the mech forgot to tighten the clutch slave cylinder properly after the job. I discovered and fixed this in another DIY later. Would be great if the workshop had a proper transmission jack. They do have some sort of rudimentary jack but it's mostly muscle power of several men for removing and installing the heavy gearbox. Makes one wince especially during install to see several men trying to shove the box in.
The rear crankshaft seal is right behind the flywheel. The engine doesn't need to be lowered but all that must be removed for a clutch swap needs to come out - the exhaust, prop shaft gearbox, clutch and flywheel. Here's a shot of the seal around the crankshaft: