[supremeBaleno]

Originally Posted by rohitkadam

Misquitas, thanks a lot for posting the FE range. This proves to be good benchmark for Max-Min range to monitor the FE.

FE depends on various factors, with the roads/traffic being one of the most important. While Misquitas is at Goa where the roads are better and much less crowded than in Blore where you reside, how do you think this would be a benchmark. Compare your FE to those that have the same car in Blore and you would have a reasonable benchmark. Another param is the fuel-station - try another one for a few fillings because some could be short-filling. Believe me - it does matter.

Originally Posted by misquitas

Once the dispenser automatically cuts off fuel when the petrol tank is nearly full, I note down the amount and value of fuel filled at the pump. I then travel for, say, about 300 kms and repeat Steps 1 to 3.

I used to follow this method for a long time till I once saw the auto cut-off come in much earlier than logically possible - did some reading on the forum/web and found that auto cut-off is not really reliable. A better option is to tank-up till brim, drive around for a few hundred kms and then repeat fill-to-brim. But this also comes with issues - possible overflow if not done carefully, manufacturer advising against filling after cut-off, testing the patience of those behind you in the line at the pump etc.

Have you ever tried using the LFI (low fuel indicator) that lights up in the dashboard of the i10 ? Set tripmeter to 0 when LFI comes up. Fill a known amount of fuel (say 10litres), drive around and note tripmeter reading when LFI comes up next. FE = tripmeterReading/10.

Originally Posted by Animesh

All that sounds so good. But, I guess most people are used to driving instinctively and I must point out here that he drives multiple cars (read SX4, Toyota Corolla, Honda City currently) and i10 seems to perform the worst in terms of fuel efficiency when compared to the listed ARAI specs.

i10 does have an FE issue as seen from the forum which is inline with what is observed by your FIL among the cars he drives. Infact ask him to be thankful that he does not have the AT version, which is worse.

[MutantX]

Well, i will have to agree with many who says i10 mileage is really bad. Mine gave barely 10kmpl within the city and hyundai uses pure marketting gimmic to lure their customers to buying their so called highly fuel efficient cars.

[misquitas]

Originally Posted by supremeBaleno

FE depends on various factors, with the roads/traffic being one of the most important. While Misquitas is at Goa where the roads are better and much less crowded than in Blore where you reside, how do you think this would be a benchmark. Compare your FE to those that have the same car in Blore and you would have a reasonable benchmark. Another param is the fuel-station - try another one for a few fillings because some could be short-filling. Believe me - it does matter.

I did not mean to offend anyone when I reported good FE figures and I am fully aware that there are MANY i10 users complaining about poor FE. As I have mentioned time and again, road conditions here in Goa are quite different to those in Bangalore, Mumbai, Delhi, etc. Hence, I will be the first to admit that it is virtually impossible to obtain great FE figures (that I get on my i10) in traffic-infested towns.

Originally Posted by supremeBaleno

I used to follow this method for a long time till I once saw the auto cut-off come in much earlier than logically possible - did some reading on the forum/web and found that auto cut-off is not really reliable. A better option is to tank-up till brim, drive around for a few hundred kms and then repeat fill-to-brim. But this also comes with issues - possible overflow if not done carefully, manufacturer advising against filling after cut-off, testing the patience of those behind you in the line at the pump etc.

Have you ever tried using the LFI (low fuel indicator) that lights up in the dashboard of the i10 ? Set tripmeter to 0 when LFI comes up. Fill a known amount of fuel (say 10litres), drive around and note tripmeter reading when LFI comes up next. FE = tripmeterReading/10.

I used to conduct FE figures in my Alto 800 by filling till the brim of the fuel tank. It was easy to do so simply because the opening of the fuel tank is wide and it is easy to see when the fuel reaches the brim.

But there was a problem to this. On a few occasions, pump attendants have got distracted and there was an overflow. Second, pump attendants don't decrease the flow of fuel till the last moment and end up suddenly shutting off fuel supply (releasing the lever) to the tank. As a result, substantial petrol accumulated in the pipe (which I have to pay for) is not released into my tank, as the tank is already filled to the brim.

With the i10, the first problem is that the opening of the fuel tank is very narrow and just about enough for the nozzle to fit into the opening of the tank. Hence, this narrow opening of the fuel tank makes it difficult to monitor when the fuel reaches the brim of the tank.

Also, I am not inclined to try out LFI (low fuel indicator) that lights up in the dashboard of the i10. This is because I prefer to have at least a half or a quarter of a tankful of fuel, to ensure that I have sufficient fuel to travel in my car in times of emergency.

Hence, I still prefer the auto cut-off system, even though it may not be the most reliable method to check FE figures.

[supremeBaleno]

^^^Maybe I was not clear - I was not disputing or being offended by your FE figures. I was just cautioning rohitkadam that he should not take your FE figures in Goa as a benchmark and be disappointed when he does not get it in Blore.

Regarding which type of method to use to measure FE, to each his own. But I so wish my car had that LFI thingy - would have been so much easy to measure FE. I assume the LFI comes up when the fuel in the tank hits a pre-determined level (say 5litres or whatever). If this is the case, LFI would always come up at the same time without major error and would be the car-equivalent of reserve in bikes, which makes accurate FE measurement possible in bikes.

P.S.: I think there is a reason behind the opening of fuel-tank being narrow in your i10 and other petrol cars - IIRC this is a regulation followed to ensure that diesel is not filled in by mistake in them, diesel nozzles being wider and thus would not enter the opening.

[misquitas]

Originally Posted by supremeBaleno

P.S.: I think there is a reason behind the opening of fuel-tank being narrow in your i10 and other petrol cars - IIRC this is a regulation followed to ensure that diesel is not filled in by mistake in them, diesel nozzles being wider and thus would not enter the opening.

I did not know about this and thanks for enlightening us about the different sizes of petrol and diesel nozzles. And all along, I thought that a narrow opening of the fuel tank in my i10 was a disadvantage.

It would be nice if there is a thread on these practical pieces of information which have been necessitated by regulations. Like, for example, a third brake light located on the rear windscreen, which I think, was also introduced due to regulations.

[supremeBaleno]

^^^Yes, the high-mount brake-light is also due to a regulation (BSIII ?) to provide better visibility and thus avoid accidents.

@rohitkadam, as mentioned earlier, I would suggest you to try a different petrol-station. After years of fuelling up at various pumps and getting ~12kmpl on my car, some 6months ago I accidentally dropped in at an out-of-my-way pump as I was really low on petrol. And what a revelation that turned out to be - 13kmpl is easy and many a time I have hit 14 too - with no change in my route or driving.

Originally Posted by rohitkadam

Is it necessary to get the service done every 6 months as per the maintenance chart, or after every 10,000 KMS is good enough?

Well, I would go by the manual - if it says 6months, go for it. BTW, does it say (6months / 5K kms) or (6months / 10K kms) ? Also is oil&filter change done every 6months ?

Originally Posted by rohitkadam

I used to drive on higher gear with low rpm , so that is something I will be careful about.

Well, if you are lugging the engine, it would be wrong and also consume more fuel. But if your car has the torque to drive the car in high gear @ low rpms, I don't think it is an issue. It depends from car to car - I can easily cruise in 5th gear @ 40kmph in my Baleno which would be a little above 1000rpm IIRC, but if I try this on our 1.3P Swift, the engine lugs.

[rohitkadam]

Originally Posted by supremeBaleno

FE depends on various factors, with the roads/traffic being one of the most important. While Misquitas is at Goa where the roads are better and much less crowded than in Blore where you reside, how do you think this would be a benchmark. Compare your FE to those that have the same car in Blore and you would have a reasonable benchmark. Another param is the fuel-station - try another one for a few fillings because some could be short-filling. Believe me - it does matter.

Originally Posted by supremeBaleno

^^^Maybe I was not clear - I was not disputing or being offended by your FE figures. I was just cautioning rohitkadam that he should not take your FE figures in Goa as a benchmark and be disappointed when he does not get it in Blore.

I agree. I understand that it is not a like to like comparison when it comes to road and traffic conditions and this will not be a good benchmark if I have to compare misquitas FE reading in Goa with that of mine in Bangalore. But what I meant was, if such conditions exist, I could try to reach a FE within that range, maybe on a highway. But till now I haven't had a chance to experience such good FE on my i10.

Originally Posted by supremeBaleno

Have you ever tried using the LFI (low fuel indicator) that lights up in the dashboard of the i10 ? Set tripmeter to 0 when LFI comes up. Fill a known amount of fuel (say 10litres), drive around and note tripmeter reading when LFI comes up next. FE = tripmeterReading/10.

I have noticed that after the LFI lights up, if you happen to switch off the acc and turn it back on, LFI lights are gone. . Ofcourse, there has to be some time gap between off/on. This probably happens because the fuel indicator is not linear (something I learnt on another thread on T-bhp).This doesn't exactly tell you whether the fuel level is the same each time the LFI lights up. Not sure if any of you have observed this pattern. Nevertheless, its the simplest way to measure however. This is what I am currently doing, but had my own doubts if this is the best practice.

Originally Posted by supremeBaleno

@rohitkadam, as mentioned earlier, I would suggest you to try a different petrol-station. After years of fuelling up at various pumps and getting ~12kmpl on my car, some 6months ago I accidentally dropped in at an out-of-my-way pump as I was really low on petrol. And what a revelation that turned out to be - 13kmpl is easy and many a time I have hit 14 too - with no change in my route or driving.

This is something I will definitely give a try. All along I have been filling petrol at only two fuel-stations that I considered were reasonably good. But so far I have just got 10-12 kmpl whereas my friend says he is able to get up to 14-15 kmpl in Bangalore. As far as I know, there is nothing significantly different in our driving styles though, but such a difference worries me.

Originally Posted by supremeBaleno

Well, I would go by the manual - if it says 6months, go for it. BTW, does it say (6months / 5K kms) or (6months / 10K kms) ? Also is oil&filter change done every 6months ?

The manual says 6 months / 10K kms. First 3 services were done on time as per manual, Oil & filter change were also done after 6 months. I was due for the 4th service this Nov-2011 which I have happily skipped. But I think it makes sense to stick to the manual as I have an extended warranty that might go void.

Originally Posted by misquitas

I did not know about this and thanks for enlightening us about the different sizes of petrol and diesel nozzles. And all along, I thought that a narrow opening of the fuel tank in my i10 was a disadvantage.

I too didn't know that petrol and diesel nozzles were of different sizes.

Thanks for bringing in different perspectives to the FE problem and for a naive owner/driver like me, these discussions have proved to be very useful.

[misquitas]

Originally Posted by rohitkadam

I have noticed that after the LFI lights up, if you happen to switch off the acc and turn it back on, LFI lights are gone. . Ofcourse, there has to be some time gap between off/on. This probably happens because the fuel indicator is not linear (something I learnt on another thread on T-bhp).This doesn't exactly tell you whether the fuel level is the same each time the LFI lights up. Not sure if any of you have observed this pattern. Nevertheless, its the simplest way to measure however. This is what I am currently doing, but had my own doubts if this is the best practice.

Thanks. Another piece of useful information. I did not know that Low Fuel Indicator (LFI) in the i10 goes off if the AC is switched on and off. This is turning out to be an interesting "i10-did-you-know" thread.

The LFI then may not be a reliable indicator for an FE test. Given the pros and cons of various methods, I would, therefore, still opt for the auto cut-off system and perform this test as often as possible. he more the tests, the more accurate will be my average FE.

[supremeBaleno]

Originally Posted by rohitkadam

I have noticed that after the LFI lights up, if you happen to switch off the acc and turn it back on, LFI lights are gone.

I have no idea about how the LFI works in the i10, but regarding the light going off when a/c is switched off makes me think that maybe the i10 is intelligent to detect the load removed from engine and thus switches off the LFI to indicate that without a/c the fuel can go further. Anyway, since you have been using LFI to do FE calculations till date, why don't you try the auto-cutoff method a couple of times, preferably at the same pump and nozzle ?

BTW, if you did not already know, the time of the day when you fill fuel is also a minor factor in FE. Fill in early in the morning when the underground tank at the pump is at its coldest overnight, since the fuel is denser when cold.

Originally Posted by rohitkadam

The manual says 6 months / 10K kms. First 3 services were done on time as per manual, Oil & filter change were also done after 6 months. I was due for the 4th service this Nov-2011 which I have happily skipped. But I think it makes sense to stick to the manual as I have an extended warranty that might go void.

MSIL service intervals are 12mon/10K kms and I have trouble reaching 10K in 12 months. And Hyundai suggests 10K in 6months And an oil/filter change at 6months seems like an overkill in this age, when other manufacturers are recommending 10K-15K kms over a year and more. But since you have extended-warranty, I suggest you get it done on time, else they will use that to deny a warranty claim.

[rohitkadam]

Originally Posted by supremeBaleno

MSIL service intervals are 12mon/10K kms and I have trouble reaching 10K in 12 months. And Hyundai suggests 10K in 6months And an oil/filter change at 6months seems like an overkill in this age, when other manufacturers are recommending 10K-15K kms over a year and more. But since you have extended-warranty, I suggest you get it done on time, else they will use that to deny a warranty claim.

I also wonder why Hyundai has recommended service at such shorter intervals when other manufacturers have slightly longer intervals. If someone is able to do 10k in 6 months, they would be better off driving a diesel car . Btw, this time interval is for a normal maintenance schedule.

There is also a maintenance schedule under severe usage conditions, which among other things also covers repeated short distance driving, extensive idling and frequent driving in stop-and-go conditions. It suggests servicing at a 5k/6months (including oil/filter). I think in traffic conditions like in Bangalore, one should ideally follow this schedule if the car is mostly used for city driving. I doubt if that would show any improvement in FE or performance.

[Aroy]

FE depends on many factors, and there is no single FE figure that you can associate with a particular vehicle model. In my M800 I got FE as low as 6 and as high as 22, on my K10 I get between 8 and 20. So a lot of factors play in determining FE, but the most common causes of low FE are

1. Driving in the wrong gear. If it is a high revving engine (my Alto K10 is), the torque at low RPM is quite low, hence you should drive at a higher RPM than normal perception indicates. Try to keep your car at 2000 RPM, especially in heavy traffic, and you may get better FE compared to driving at 1000 RPM. Mind you this is for congested stretches. When you go beyond 45, fourth gear is fine, but at say 30, the second may be a better option compared to third.

2. Moving in start-stop traffic, especially with AC. Remember that the fuel is being consumed when the engine in on, irrespective of whether you are moving or not. Again to give an example of my K10, I get an FE of 11-12 when I am doing short stretches within the colony with AC on. When I am on normal drives where I can cross 50, the FE jumps to 14-15. On highways with AC on and most of the stretch spent at 90-100 with fifth the FE is 19+.

3. Problem with Fuel/Air delivery. In case your throttle body is stuck (happened with one member's K10, who was at his wits end because of low FE, till an independent mechanic diagnosed the problem). A blocked air filter will also have the same effect. I had problem when during my service water wet and choked my filter. The FE dropped to 8. Changed the filter and all was fine.

4. Driving Technique. If you are constantly accelerating aggressively to get ahead of the crowd, and then braking within a short distance, FE will take a massive hit. You will also wear out your brakes within a short time.

5. Long stops with engine on. Happens when you are stuck in traffic regularly and have the engine on because of the AC. Nothing can be done in such cases, except change the route and/or timing to avoid massive jams.

To get the best FE, drive on an open highway at around 80 km/h in the fifth gear and be amazed by the figures returned.