[vijaycool]

Looks normal. The 2nd speed kicks in just crossing the half way mark. In your case the needle is still below the half way mark so the 'Jet' didnt start.

[funkykar]

Perfect!

Just monitor the temp gauge for a few more days. Once a day check for traces of leakage. I presume you have cleaned all the spillage area already.

Possibly, the issue hid itself when the coolant was changed and maxed above the max levels. The Delhi heat might have unearthed it recently

[architect]

Judging that you were driving on a day like today (with temperature around 35-38 in the evening) with no AC, I think the temperature is quite normal. Remember, you were driving in the city, where the poor radiator has to work in very demanding conditions, with practically no cool air to draw from the front. Either you are standing / crawling in the traffic jam, or you are taking in exhaust fumes of other cars.

And before you call that "Helicopter" fan a "monster" remember that's what gives this car a fantastic AC for its segment.

[ByDesign]

Originally Posted by vijaycool

Looks normal. The 2nd speed kicks in just crossing the half way mark. In your case the needle is still below the half way mark so the 'Jet' didnt start.

I wonder if it does kick in after the halfway mark. Maybe it will later.

Originally Posted by funkykar

Perfect!

Just monitor the temp gauge for a few more days. Once a day check for traces of leakage. I presume you have cleaned all the spillage area already.

Possibly, the issue hid itself when the coolant was changed and maxed above the max levels. The Delhi heat might have unearthed it recently

Yeah will do.

Originally Posted by architect

Judging that you were driving on a day like today (with temperature around 35-38 in the evening) with no AC, I think the temperature is quite normal. Remember, you were driving in the city, where the poor radiator has to work in very demanding conditions, with practically no cool air to draw from the front. Either you are standing / crawling in the traffic jam, or you are taking in exhaust fumes of other cars.

And before you call that "Helicopter" fan a "monster" remember that's what gives this car a fantastic AC for its segment.

Arch, when I say monstrous, I mean like how the Veyron has monstrous power. Here, its a good thing

[ch.nathan]

The digital CLOCK in my SDX has stopped working all of a sudden 2 days back.

I read the manual and checked the fuses 8,15 and 20 - all are fine.

Any idea as to what could be the problem?

[planet_rocker]

Originally Posted by ch.nathan

The digital CLOCK in my SDX has stopped working all of a sudden 2 days back.

I read the manual and checked the fuses 8,15 and 20 - all are fine.

Any idea as to what could be the problem?

flash a torch at an angle on the clock display - if you see the digits - clock is fine - just the bulb needs to be replaced.

to replace bulb - slowly pull out the inverted 'U' plastic cover (which houses the head lamp leveler in new palios) - take out the screw at the corner - slowly pull out the plastic cover around the dash board - unscrew the clock panel - replace bulb - check if it is working bright / dim (with head lights on) - fix the panel back - enjoy.

usually a regular push type small bulb is used - you can even change the colour of the illumination by changing the green plastic cover on the display with your choice.

take care.

[ch.nathan]

Originally Posted by planet_rocker

flash a torch at an angle on the clock display - if you see the digits - clock is fine - just the bulb needs to be replaced.

I did that immediately, and am able to see the digits. Even the clock is running - the 'colon' is blinking and I am also able to adjust the time. That's good news. Thankx planet_rocker. You really rock!!

Originally Posted by planet_rocker

to replace bulb - slowly pull out the inverted 'U' plastic cover (which houses the head lamp leveler in new palios) - take out the screw at the corner - slowly pull out the plastic cover around the dash board - unscrew the clock panel - replace bulb - check if it is working bright / dim (with head lights on) - fix the panel back - enjoy.

The clock is on the left side of the cluster and headlamp leveller is on right side of the cluster. Are you sure they are connected to a single cover?

[planet_rocker]

Originally Posted by ch.nathan

I did that immediately, and am able to see the digits. Even the clock is running - the 'colon' is blinking and I am also able to adjust the time. That's good news. Thankx planet_rocker. You really rock!!

Glad that it helped You are welcome

Originally Posted by ch.nathan

The clock is on the left side of the cluster and headlamp leveller is on right side of the cluster. Are you sure they are connected to a single cover?

Yes - single piece of black (or beige in some palios) plastic cover around the dash board - extends till top of the Head Unit area DIY

edit: head lamp leveler on the inverted U plastic cover which is fixed to the black / beige plastic cover

[ch.nathan]

Originally Posted by planet_rocker

Yes - single piece of black (or beige in some palios) plastic cover around the dash board - extends till top of the Head Unit area

edit: head lamp leveler on the inverted U plastic cover which is fixed to the black / beige plastic cover

Just went down and took PICs.

Do you mean I have to remove this first?


And then the whole panel cover comes out?

[planet_rocker]

Originally Posted by ch.nathan

Just went down and took PICs.
Do you mean I have to remove this first?

Yes - click lock type - use a thin negative screw driver or something similar - once it pops out - there are screws behind it which keeps the Silver panel / plastic cover stuck to the main dashboard.

Originally Posted by ch.nathan

And then the whole panel cover comes out?

once you removed the screws (one in my car) - use the thin negative screw driver to pull out the silver plastic cover (same Click type) - once the panel is out you can easily access the bulb - 'twist' to take out the bulb along with the holder

All dash board bulbs are same (small, pin-type, push to lock / pull to unlock) buy atleast 5-6 keep them with you for future use.

[viper_711]

Originally Posted by Dud_Dodo

I have this slight 'thud-thud' noise from the rear hatch door, only when I go over bad roads though. Mine has run just over 7800 Kms & is due for the second service which 'm planning to get done tomorrow. I'd pointed this out to Babu from Greentracks during the first service as well but they couldn't fix it ('m not sure they were able to locate the source as well).

Confused whether I should take her back to Greentracks or to Prerana (I bought it from them).

If any of you guys have had this noise issue & have been successful in fixing it, please guide.

P.S. 'm also planning to change the oil to Synthetic Oil during the service tomorrow, is this advisable now or should I wait longer?

Am replying to a very old post and you may have already solved the problem. My 1.6 Stile had a similar issue: the 'U' clamp that holds the lock and is fixed on the body is generally the culprit here. It was solved by removing it and re-fixing with a small thin piece of rubber packing. This was done 2 years back and the rear hatch has not rattled since!

[ch.nathan]

Originally Posted by Ice

1. Rear rattling - Its the roof-mounted stop lamp!The plastic cladding that houses the lamp assembly is made of a quality plastic last used to make 5 rupee sunglasses for kids. It cracks after a few weeks of Bangalore-esque roads, and comes undone if you continue to drive over bad roads. The rattling also gets progressively worse.

FIX: Change the housing, not the lamp. Either get it done at Fiat/Tata service stations, or at a roadside mechanic after picking up the housing from a spare-parts store. Note: Change only the housing - the A.S.S. guys will try to convince you otherwise. The housing costs Rs. 450/. Note: Don't try pulling the housing off yourself if the rattling becomes unbearable. You can end up pulling off the main bolt that fixes the entire unit to the body. (Don't ask me how I know about this....)

Hey,

Any idea where I could get the plastic-housing, in Bangalore?

I have tried all T.A.S.S. and all of them are saying they can't sell the housing seperately!

[Ice]

Originally Posted by ch.nathan

Hey,

Any idea where I could get the plastic-housing, in Bangalore?

I have tried all T.A.S.S. and all of them are saying they can't sell the housing seperately!

No idea. Sorry. I just ripped mine offf

[bottle]

Originally Posted by Ice

2. AC - Ice formation - Once the AC runs continuously for 45 minutes to an hour (especially on the highway), the cooling reduces drastically. Prerana told me that this was because of ice formation, and was part and parcel of the design. I tend to agree with him, because I had the same issue with my Petra's AC.

Fix: Nothing exotic, just irritating. Switch the compressor off every 30 minutes or so on the highway for a minute or so, and the ice melts.

Look forward to hearing from the rest of you!

I saw this ice formation on my car's A/C pipe when I opened the bonnet recently, wanted to confirm if this was normal since I don't remember noticing it before

[Ice]

Originally Posted by bottle

I saw this ice formation on my car's A/C pipe when I opened the bonnet recently, wanted to confirm if this was normal since I don't remember noticing it before

Bottle :

I can't comment on that. If the cooling and blower throw aren't affected, I wouldn't worry about it. The icing in my case affected the blower throw, and fan speed 3 would seem like 1, with minimal cooling because the ice was blocking the flow of air into the cabin. I don't know how to explain this from a technical point of view.