[Kosfactor]

Originally Posted by rambo1o1

Anyways, my mechanic has diagnosed the issue to be oil slipping past the piston rings. Was recommend to do an engine flush to try decarb the stuck piston rings ,if thats the case and fill full synthetic oil of a higher grade 5w40 insted of 5w30. If the oil still burns at the same rate after the flush then ill continue to use a semi synthetic oil with regular top ups.

Should i do the engine flush? If not, should i fill a full synthetic 5w40( amsoil/mobil) and stick to 10k km service intervals or stick to a semi synthetic 5w30 or just put a simple mineral oil and do the oil change every 5k with filter replacements?

How much would it cost to do this right? As in open up the engine, replace the rings and rebore /sleeve the block?

I'm not able to believe that an engine flush would fix the problem. If the tune up has caused increased soot formation (stuck rings follows) , it would have also caused other damage internally , best to open it and check as well as revert to stock tune. My guess is the previous owner was aware of the problem.

My friend as well sold off his Rapid TDi when it started drinking oil past 60K kms.

[rambo1o1]

Originally Posted by Kosfactor

How much would it cost to do this right? As in open up the engine, replace the rings and rebore /sleeve the block?

I'm not able to believe that an engine flush would fix the problem. If the tune up has caused increased soot formation (stuck rings follows) , it would have also caused other damage internally , best to open it and check as well as revert to stock tune. My guess is the previous owner was aware of the problem.

My friend as well sold off his Rapid TDi when it started drinking oil past 60K kms.

I too was not sure an engine flush would do anything but my mechanic told me to try this to see if anything improves as chances of the problem worsening is low for a regular serviced February 2015 model.

Regarding repairs, after spending a great deal glued to the internet, i feel if i need to rectify the issue, i should do a short block replacement rather than open the engine and rebore. Since a short block replacement is much more reliable then repairs. The cost of a short block ranges from 40k to 60k, from what i have gathered from the ecosport thread where early 2013 batch faced this same issue.

I was told by my mechanic that even though oil is being burned, i can still drive it till the consumption rate reaches 1liter /1500 km. Since he services alot of diesel vehicles both light commercial and passenger, alot of people drive with oil burning sometimes for almost 50 to 70k km before they either overhaul or sell the vehicle. I will however stick to injectors cleaner to prevent soot from damaging them.

I just needed to know if an expensive 100%synthetic oil will reduce oil consumption or its just a waste and i should stick to a decent semi synthetic or use a thicker oil. I hope this post stays relevant to this thread.

Thanks

[hserus]

Originally Posted by rambo1o1

I just needed to know if an expensive 100%synthetic oil will reduce oil consumption or its just a waste and i should stick to a decent semi synthetic or use a thicker oil. I hope this post stays relevant to this thread.
Thanks

Get a thicker oil, change frequently. Something like Mobil Delvac MX or Shell Rimula R4 15w40 should work fine.

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by rambo1o1

I have a second hand 1.5tdci global fiesta that i picked up this January which has covered about 75k km. It has been petes remapped by the previous owner in 2018. The engine is burning oil, about a liter since its last oil change at 70k km. I did a proper check before buying the car and never found symptoms of oil burning. Car runs great with excellent fuel efficiency.

If the oil consumption is less than 500ml per 1000 kms run then that is within limits. Keep an eye on the dipstick. When the dipstick shows the oil level at the lower mark, just top up the oil till the high mark. That's it. Ensure you keep stock of a couple of litres of spare engine oil of same type with you.

[Kosfactor]

Originally Posted by rambo1o1

I just needed to know if an expensive 100%synthetic oil will reduce oil consumption or its just a waste and i should stick to a decent semi synthetic or use a thicker oil. I hope this post stays relevant to this thread.

Thanks

Lets not add anything expensive to it at this point, use OE recommended (exact spec) oil for the next fill and monitor the oil consumption for sometime.

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

If the oil consumption is less than 500ml per 1000 kms run then that is within limits.

Is this specific to this engine? because that is quite a lot of oil to be used in a 10,000 Km service interval.

[hserus]

Originally Posted by Kosfactor

Lets not add anything expensive to it at this point, use OE recommended (exact spec) oil for the next fill and monitor the oil consumption for sometime.

Is this specific to this engine? because that is quite a lot of oil to be used in a 10,000 Km service interval.

My last fiesta didn't bleed oil like this but then it was bone stock and not remapped + driven over enthusiastically.

Might try cleaning out eg the intercooler / oil seperator and see if that helps.

[rambo1o1]

Originally Posted by hserus

My last fiesta didn't bleed oil like this but then it was bone stock and not remapped + driven over enthusiastically.

Might try cleaning out eg the intercooler / oil seperator and see if that helps.

Thanks, will do oil buring remedies in a couple of months as my FNG is in a covid containment zone and is currently shut since im not facing drastic oil consumption, am not ready to go to another FNG with whom i have no prior relationship.

Regards

[sagarpadaki]

Originally Posted by Kosfactor

Is this specific to this engine? because that is quite a lot of oil to be used in a 10,000 Km service interval.

Nope. It is a general guideline. I agree it is a task to keep topping up oil every 1000 kms. But , it still works out much cheaper than getting the engine rebuilt if you are using mineral oil.

Also the 500ml per 1000 kms is the upper limit. Like, the worst case scenario.

Originally Posted by rambo1o1

Thanks, will do oil buring remedies in a couple of months as my FNG is in a covid containment zone and is currently shut since im not facing drastic oil consumption, am not ready to go to another FNG with whom i have no prior relationship.

Regards

Please check the PCV valve as well. A faulty PCV valve stuck in open state will cause a lot of oil vapors to pass through and eventually get burnt. It is a good idea to replace the PCV valve if it is cheap and easily accessible.

[hserus]

Originally Posted by sagarpadaki

Please check the PCV valve as well. A faulty PCV valve stuck in open state will cause a lot of oil vapors to pass through and eventually get burnt. It is a good idea to replace the PCV valve if it is cheap and easily accessible.

Oil separator and PCV valve were integrated at least in my scorpio. I haven't had this issue with my fiesta engine so not entirely sure about the architecture, but my scorpio had it in the usual place - right atop the intake manifold.

[automachine]

I have a Honda City idtec diesel 2017 which has crossed 50K kms. So far I have always changed oil at Honda dealer which I believe would be Honda 3D diesel oil. I could not find any specifications on the oil used by Honda. Could anyone provide details on what would be the specifications for honda 3D diesel oil? Also what would be the alternative for better fully synthetic oil if I am looking for engine smoothness and lower NVH?

[hserus]

Originally Posted by automachine

I have a Honda City idtec diesel 2017 which has crossed 50K kms. So far I have always changed oil at Honda dealer which I believe would be Honda 3D diesel oil. I could not find any specifications on the oil used by Honda. Could anyone provide details on what would be the specifications for honda 3D diesel oil? Also what would be the alternative for better fully synthetic oil if I am looking for engine smoothness and lower NVH?

What does your manual say about what grade of engine oil is specified? Can you look at the manual and let me know / show a screenshot here.

[automachine]

Originally Posted by hserus

What does your manual say about what grade of engine oil is specified? Can you look at the manual and let me know / show a screenshot here.

I don't have the manual with me now. However I found the below data on honda website.

[hserus]

Originally Posted by automachine

I don't have the manual with me now. However I found the below data on honda website.

0w30 acea c2/c3 or better 5w30 given the hot climate here.

Liqui Moly Molygen Generation 5W-30 ACEA C2,ACEA C3,API SN Fully Synthetic Engine Oil (4 L) https://www.amazon.in/dp/B078G7N3TB/..._7uMyFbXS8KNNV

Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 API SM/SN Fully Synthetic Motor Oil for Cars (4 L) https://www.amazon.in/dp/B00SFNNTSE/..._DvMyFbFFZ9QTC

Shell Helix Ultra 0W30 API SN, ACEA C2/C3 Fully Synthetic Motor Oil for Cars (1L) https://www.amazon.in/dp/B0863WM7C2/..._hwMyFb2HENCK0

[automachine]

Originally Posted by hserus

0w30 acea c2/c3 or better 5w30 given the hot climate here.

Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 API SM/SN Fully Synthetic Motor Oil for Cars (4 L) https://www.amazon.in/dp/B00SFNNTSE/..._DvMyFbFFZ9QTC

Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 is recommended by several Honda iDTec car users in amazon reviews. So I am inclined towards it. Would Amsoil signature series 5W-30 be a good choice than Mobil 1 ESP?
https://www.amazon.in/Amsoil-WV01RCA...=amsoil&sr=8-3
The Amsoil specs say its ACEA A1/B1 or A5/B5. So I am not able to determine if its compatible with ACEA C2/C3 requirement of Honda iDtec.

[hserus]

A5/B5 is a different, older standard. The ACEA C3 5w30 Amsoil is here

https://www.amazon.in/AMSOIL-Europea.../dp/B07G5DJ7SJ

Give it a try, it is rather expensive though. Rs. 1350 for a quart (946 ml).

Originally Posted by automachine

Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 is recommended by several Honda iDTec car users in amazon reviews. So I am inclined towards it. Would Amsoil signature series 5W-30 be a good choice than Mobil 1 ESP?
https://www.amazon.in/Amsoil-WV01RCA...=amsoil&sr=8-3
The Amsoil specs say its ACEA A1/B1 or A5/B5. So I am not able to determine if its compatible with ACEA C2/C3 requirement of Honda iDtec.