Team-BHP (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/)

-   Technical Stuff (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/)

-   -   Mercedes W124 E Class Support Group (https://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/56563-mercedes-w124-e-class-support-group-6.html)

The OVP is Good; no Issues there
Shorting the Pig Tail connectors has no effect

The issue is with the relay i believe as if i manually click it.. the fan runs

Eitherway i have given the car for a top-up on AC.. will sit on this on the weekend with a multimeter to sort this

Thanks on the resistor piece.. will check that.. is this the resistor when goes i have to open the AC circuit and fill gas?

If yes.. can i bypass that switch with a external resistor??

[Thanks on the resistor piece.. will check that.. is this the resistor when goes i have to open the AC circuit and fill gas?

If yes.. can i bypass that switch with a external resistor??[/quote]

If the fan is not coming on bypassing the sensor then I highly doubt the it will after AC top up. I should them assume that the problem is not in the sensor and its the wiring. Have you got the wiring changed? if not, i am afraid that these things will be a daily affair.....

The resostor is attached to the body and is out in the open, you should be able to see it just above the A/C eveporator, it has ceramic coating in white. The resistor only helps in giving low speed to the fan and does not have any other function.

Lastly check your coolant temp sensor, as its the actuation point for the fan. I double that the relay would be faulty.

good luck my friend, its been 6 months with mine (e300 diesel (OM606 NA)) and these are part and parcels of it.

Resolved.. Thanks Varun


Did a AC top-up.. though that was not the fault

Opened the relay box to check the wiring connectors under neath.. and the connector were dirty and rusty.. cleant it and put it all back together.. everything working as intended..

So got a spare relay as bargain of earlier wrong trouble shooting/..

Your are welcome. The relay are the last options in w124's mate. The first are the fuses, wiring and the connections.

Next time you take yours for a wash, make sure you get the engine bay sprayed with diesel and pressure wash after half an hour. this keeps the bay clean and helps understanding things better. But, take special care that the water should not enter the area behind the battery......

Thanks Varun..

Just one more issue after the AC top-up .. when i put ,my AC the rpm actually falls.. instead of rising to take the extra load..

this leads to sometimes the car.. stalling when i slow down for a light or something..

any clue why?

I can retard and advance the injection timing in my diesel and it solved the problem. But , I am not sure of the petrol one. But, it could also be some error in the coding. Do one thing, take off the battery terminal for 5 min and put it back and check if it solves this. Let me know!!!

will try it later once i am done from work and let you know

Could be a dirty throttle body or the Mass Airflow Sensor.

Take it to your mechanic and ask him to check the codes the ECU is giving.

Go to an independent mech, and have him scan the codes. It will save you a lot of tral and error.

ya thats what i am doing tomorrow.. will keep you guys posted

Time for a battery replacement!

Being out of town, I didn't use my E220 for a week. When I tried to start it today, it wouldn't start. The central locking wouldn't work either, and the dash lights were really dim - dimming further on cranking the engine. No crank sound either. Clearly, the battery's out.

I figured charging might help, but then realized it's been 2.5 years since it was replaced. I was told that's the average lifespan - am I correct?

Now, I'm trying to figure out what to put in. The current battery is an Exide Sealed-for-life maintenance free type, but I don't know the exact spec (Writing this from office; left the car at home). I spoke to a dealer I know, and he said there are two variants for old mercedes - din 66 and din 74. After discounting the old battery, he quoted 7.2k and 8.2k for these respectively (Exide).

My questions are,

1) Will charging help, or do I need a replacement? In other words, is it okay for a battery to die in 2.5 years or less?

2) What spec battery - din 66 or 74 - would go into a '96 E220 W124? Also, are the prices quoted reasonable?

1) Will charging help, or do I need a replacement? In other words, is it okay for a battery to die in 2.5 years or less?

2) What spec battery - din 66 or 74 - would go into a '96 E220 W124? Also, are the prices quoted reasonable?[/quote]

The currect spec for your E220 is DIN74, you can go for Amaron Hiway series, they are cheaper and have the same warranty as other series. Please remember that you need a DIN style battery with poles position lower than the normal battery.

There can be two reasons for the battery going dead
. The battery self discharged. In this case the battery will go dead even if you disconnect the terminals. You can try this after charging.
. There was discharge through some circuit in the wiring. The battery will not discharge if the terminals are dis connected. Do that when you will not be using the car for some time.

Charge the battery and see if it can start the car.

Charging a battery always helps. Unless there is a massive short in the cells charged battery will normally start the car. If you have the space, buy a charger, so that you can use it in emergency.

Thanks for the info. However, when I check online, most UK forums say DIN88/100. I still have to take a look at my battery stupid:

Can I go ahead with DIN74?

DIN74 is the correct type. You can go ahead. But please first check why the battery is dead. Might be that the battery is OK and something else is not right.