[HappyWheels]

@Patience,
Why the engine protector?

@All,
Dumped a can of 360 into the tank last night and went for a small drive around the block. No effect. The driving and the car response was the same. Might have covered a KM or so and did not go for a long drive since the main purpose was to park the car inside.

Today morning, on the way to office, after a few KM's, the engine definitely quitened down (very noticeable) and the in-gear acceleration improved a lot. I usually am able to do only till 4th gear, in my office route, before which I need to slow down for all the species on road jumping across, but this time, I was able to come out with higher gears and ended up in 5th. Missed out the cause of this till I almost reached office! Very happy with the results!

This Saturday, booked with Surakshaa; fully-synthetic oil, here comes my Alto!

[PatienceWins]

Originally Posted by HappyWheels

@Patience,
Why the engine protector?

I am using mineral oil. These are additives which can be added to a mineral oil. I used 3M earlier.

I find the same in the picture of OWS goodies you got. Is it required when you are shifting to synthetic oil?

I quote from the product specification:
This product contains all the special properties of Fully Synthetic Oil and gives those benefits to engines using regular mineral oil.

[HappyWheels]

PW,
My car has run 60K with mineral oil and now I am moving to fully synthetic. So, in this process, it will be a complete clearing (a full wash and drain) of the existing engine oil. The engine flush will, most probably, also remove all those little slush that would have found a comfortable place to rest inside the engine. Now, removing these slush is good, but might also be bad for the engine as a whole, for whatever maybe the reasons (some else might be able to give the exact cause) but my guess is that these guys (slush) in a way have a symboitic relation with the engine!

You will find, here at T-BHP, that a engine protector addition being recommended only to people who are moving across oil and the engine has clocked in some ~+50K kms.

Anyway, older engine and moving out from its comfort zone (mineral oil till now) is the main (and only) reason that I am using the engine protector. If is was just an regular oil change, I would not have bothered.

And IMHO engine protectors are best used when changing the engine oil (& filter) and are not so efficient when you just add them to existing oil.

[PatienceWins]

Originally Posted by HappyWheels

And IMHO engine protectors are best used when changing the engine oil (& filter) and are not so efficient when you just add them to existing oil.

I use them while changing the oil and filter as part of regular service. I will be using the OWS goodies as part of regular service next week.

I think engine oil additive is good for mineral oils and not required for synthetic oils. You would find the engine oil additive specifications mentioning that it has superior qualities of a synthetic oil. So I fail to understand the use of additive with synthetic oil, which is a superior oil.

Engine flush may do some damage to a high mileage engine. But an engine additive added later is not going to help here as the additive will just give superior properties to the oil added.

[HappyWheels]

Hmmm... PW, nothing to do with Synthetic engine oil and engine protector. The engine protector is used to maintain the compression (apart from many other good things it might be doing). But, as far as I understand, it is not that engine protectors are good only for mineral oils. Infact, I have seen more people going for the engine protector when moving to synthetic oil, here at T-BHP!

For references, check out post #61 in this thread.

Also, post by Nitrous (our chennai anna) #2 @ http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/modifi...-any-good.html

And finally, by the Bangalore boy Vid #154 @ http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/long-t...report-11.html

So, all my knowledge is from this forum.

[pramodkumar]

Guys,

I am looking for some serious advice here, I have lancer petrol which has clocked 119k, the car has always been serviced at regular intervals, and the engine is silent with mild tappet noise. Recently when I put my car on ramp I noticed some oil leaks near the gear box engine junction. There is no smoke or lack of power but the engine oil dips every 2-3 k KMS, I have to top close to half a liter. Now my question is, is it advisable to take the car and do a flush and filling synthetic oil? If yes should I take it to the A.S.S and get it done or some good garages can do it as well (any suggestions in Trivandrum) I have changed oil at 14K now it is close to 19K do I change the oil immediately(I have topped it up recently). I have been following this thread regularly and now cannot really decide as to do what,Please advice.

[crazydiablo]

Synthetic oil or any additives will not resolve oil leaks. You need to fix your oil leaks and then do a flush and move to synthetic oil. Oil leak can be as simple as a gasket leak whic his easy to fix. If you can find a good mech nothing like it.

[Jaggu]

Pramod fix the oil leak and then plan on anything else. How is your clutch, has it been changed anytime, maybe plan the job along with this oil leak so that you can avoid double the labor and effort.

[anupmathur]

Get the seal replaced at the engine housing as well as at the gearbox housing. This seems to be a case of just a leaky seal. Since it is a labour intensive job it would be good to have both seals replaced instead of having to do the gearbox seal later!

[Vid6639]

Originally Posted by ASHISHPALLOD

if it is so, then, sideways, here i come.

@vid,
what were the figs earlier than that product use?
2/70 and 110/3 are extremely satisfactory figures.
please post the list of products you used.

It used to be around the same but used to struggle to reach 70 in second and 100 in 3rd. Now it's just effortless.

I used the OWS 210 engine flush, OWS 220 engine protector and 5W50 synthetic oil. After all that dumped a bottle of fuel system cleaner OWS 360 in the fuel tank.

For the oil you can go for 5W40 instead of 5W50. I used 5W50 as I had a spare bottle so only had to order 2litres.

[normally_crazy]

OWS in the vRS

Since Shell has stopped 15W50 oil - I was looking elsewhere (didn't want to go with Mobil-1) - spoke to Farhan and he re-confirmed that 5W50 would be good. He also suggested the V package (OWS 210 engine flush, OWS 220 engine protector and fuel system cleaner OWS 360) since the car had done 71000 kms.

I got the 360,220 and 210 along with 5 liters of 5W50 synthetic oil and 3 liters of synthetic gear oil as well.

Changed the oil as per the instructions and voila !!

The car has become quieter, much quieter and more smoother. You can hardly feel the engine or hear it. It started pulling better and due to the silence I could only hear the K&N intake sound and the turbo whistle

The difference was felt immediately within 2 kms of driving. It's been 6000 kms after the oil change and there is no change in behaviour yet. I would say going with OWS was the best decision I made then.

I also dumped in the synthetic gear oil and it made a difference too - more smoother shifting.

[pramodkumar]

Originally Posted by crazydiablo

Synthetic oil or any additives will not resolve oil leaks. You need to fix your oil leaks and then do a flush and move to synthetic oil. Oil leak can be as simple as a gasket leak whic his easy to fix. If you can find a good mech nothing like it.

I Have heard of OWS 220 engine protector, will this fix leaks,

Originally Posted by Jaggu

Pramod fix the oil leak and then plan on anything else. How is your clutch, has it been changed anytime, maybe plan the job along with this oil leak so that you can avoid double the labor and effort.

I just wanted to know if loosing 1/2 liters in 2000+ KMs can be due to this leak, i occasionally see a small 2" (dia) oil leak under the car, the clutch is fine, though the car struggles a bit with 5 adults and AC on.

Originally Posted by anupmathur

Get the seal replaced at the engine housing as well as at the gearbox housing. This seems to be a case of just a leaky seal. Since it is a labour intensive job it would be good to have both seals replaced instead of having to do the gearbox seal later!

How much do you think this might cost, the car is about to be serviced in a month, Should i fill in mineral oil this time and run for another 5k to find if the leake persists or should i go for synthetic oil?

[HappyWheels]

Moved to OWS last Saturday.

Things done: OWS Fully synthetic oil (5W40), engine protector, gear oil additive and the radiator coolant.

And finally, poured in the second bottle of engine treatment, after filling in 10liters of fuel to the existing mix.

The work as done as per Farhans instructions (helps a lot!).

First thing that hits you is the sound, rather lack of it. At the work shop I literally has to check closely to make sure if the engine is running or not.

Apart from that, I do not find much difference. The engine still strains when I push it at 60kmph @ 2nd (as was the case earlier). The gear slotting also has not become soft or anything. And the temperature gauge is still sitting at the mid-point, as earlier (not that I am complaining about it).

With some many people having good results, I am not sure what is it that I did wrong!!!

@Vid, we need to meet. I will be thankful if I we have have a look at each others vehicle and then compare notes. I need to know where I goofed up.

@Pramod,
OWS220 will not fix leaks. I also have a leak at the gear housing, but since the leak is very minimal (no drops or anything so far, but can be seen on the casing exterior) I have pushed the work for the next service.
Run with your regular oil and then get it fixed in the next service.

[the_maassk]

Update on the gear oil additive - like I said earlier, I did not see any significant improvement with the gear shifts soon after adding this. I have now driven around 200 kms after the addition of the gear oil additive. The gear shifts now seem to be getting smoother. So I guess it does take a few hundred kilometers before you start seeing the effect.

[iceman91]

OIL will not fix leaks.
Have to check the seals they might need replacing.
Like others said, get the leaks fixed first and then change the oil etc.