Quote:
Originally Posted by sgiitk To resolve the confusion. Almost all classic ATs freewheel if the road speed is lower than the corresponding engine speed in the interest of economy. The Civi had grade control which takes care of it on slopes, I doubt whether a cheaper end AT will have it. Definitely, my Santro and the earlier Zen do/did not. This is only in the lower gears. |
Firstly, they don't freewheel, though it may seem like they do. Due to tall ratios and their dividing effect on back torque, and the torque converter's limited ability to transmit back torque at low engine speeds means that you get very little engine braking in high ratios, so little to seem non-existent. But this is not freewheeling because the engine remains connected to the wheels via the fluid coupling and continues to present an inertial resistance to the car's acceleration due to external forces though much reduced due. A car with intelligent algorithms will either use torque converter lock up or down shifting, or both to curtail the sensation of free wheeling, which is what Honda grade logic does.
Secondly, I am not sure what confusion was resolved. You post doesn't explain the 3+1 vs true 4 speed idea, which you have been requested to either explain or to desist from.
By the way,
everyone,
all this tamasha about what D1, D2, D3 indicates confusion about the purpose of the AT. If D is not taking care of 99% of the miles you cover, and you can't go your entire life without knowing what D1, D2,3 do, you've bought the wrong sort of transmission. You should almost never need to use anything but D in forward motion. And on the rare occasions where it would benefit you to use a lower ratio manually, you should be able to get by with jusing the brake instead. Most people in the world who use automatics have no understanding of O/D switches and Dx modes. They just put the thing in D and use the throttle and brake as necessary to get the results they need. Now, the more savvy driver can and should use the modes other than D to get better performance when the circumstances justify human interference, but it is not necessary!
If you are finding it necessary or desirable to intervene frequently, then you have made the wrong choice of car. You should either have bought a car that COULD get you around in D without your intervention 99% of the time, or you should have bought a manual transmission car.
Unless you are the sort of person who has to drive a lot in the hills and in urban areas and you are more willing to putz around with D modes in the hills than to give up the convenience of automatics in urban areas. But unless you are person in those circumstances and with that personality, the D modes should be a forgettable and unimportant part of your life.
If you just want to know what the modes do just for the knowledge and to use them correctly in the appropriate circumstances, just remember that the modes lock out higher ratios. So D3 will allow the box to go no higher than 3rd gear. It does not actually select third. You'll want to lock out higher ratios on some downhill sections if you want the engine braking that comes from lower ratios. You'll want to lock them out on some uphill sections to prevent the transmission from hunting (go up a gear, its too high, drop a gear, its too short, up a gear, over and over). Which mode is appropriate? that depends on the speed, steepness of slope, and how heavily the car is loaded. ON the spot, experiment. Start withe the highest, D. not enough engine braking? hunting? Go to D3. STill doing it? go to D2, and so on.
Automatic transmissions are made to be brainlessly simple to use. They are intended to and designed to reduce the operation of a car to throttle, braking and steering. If you are expending a lot of thought power to figure out their usage, you're on completely the wrong track and have completely missed the essential attribute of the automatic transmission! If you are doing a lot of manual intervention in your automatic transmission car, you've bought the wrong car!